Hello guys, first time poster here. My love for tube gear pushed me to buy a porta color that was restored by a pro (I believe it’s a ‘67). I also bought a garage sale find as a parts donor. I’ve read the good and bad things said about these sets here, but this is a practical sized set to collect for my modest sized home.

Can you guys help me out with Sam’s photofacts and sources for spare parts, especially flybacks? I’m also looking for more of these sets for the crazy idea of building a boneyard of sorts. Any and all answers are welcome, even if they’re just to call me nuts.

There was an early and a later porta color chassis that had revisions and thus different schematics. I scanned a photocopy of the early version's Sam's folder for a member here a few years back...I probably still have the file somewhere.

Hello guys, first time poster here. My love for tube gear pushed me to buy a porta color that was restored by a pro (I believe it’s a ‘67). I also bought a garage sale find as a parts donor. I’ve read the good and bad things said about these sets here, but this is a practical sized set to collect for my modest sized home.

Can you guys help me out with Sam’s photofacts and sources for spare parts, especially flybacks? I’m also looking for more of these sets for the crazy idea of building a boneyard of sorts. Any and all answers are welcome, even if they’re just to call me nuts.
I've never seen a flyback failure on a Porta-Color. I don't think the HV was that high on those sets.
I have two from the later 70's with high focus voltage CRT's and one from 1973 with low focus voltage CRT. The newer sets have a slightly better picture. :thmbsp:

I've never seen a flyback failure on a Porta-Color. I don't think the HV was that high on those sets.
I have two from the later 70's with high focus voltage CRT's and one from 1973 with low focus voltage CRT. The newer sets have a slightly better picture. :thmbsp:

I’ve read that about the newer sets, hope to find one someday. These things don’t come up on evilbay too often. There’s a guy on YouTube taking one out of the box NOS. I could never get that lucky!

Never put a FBT in a portacolor either. Keep in mind many GE
FBT's came in 3 separate parts to order. Core halves with spacers
& U bolt, HV winding, and pulse winding.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Never put a FBT in a portacolor either. Keep in mind many GE

FBT's came in 3 separate parts to order. Core halves with spacers

& U bolt, HV winding, and pulse winding.



73 Zeno:smoke:

LFOD !


The Thordarson FLY-641 is supposed to be an improved replacement for the original. I got mine from Moyer Electronics, to have as a spare.

The Thordarson FLY-641 is supposed to be an improved replacement for the original. I got mine from Moyer Electronics, to have as a spare.

I just tried searching their website but no dice with that part number. Thanks for the referral, guess I’ll call them instead. Can you steer me towards factory service literature?

I just tried searching their website but no dice with that part number. Thanks for the referral, guess I’ll call them instead. Can you steer me towards factory service literature?


I don't know of factory service literature -- just the Sams Photofacts. What is the model number or chassis number of your set? That will dictate which Photofact folder you need.

I've compiled a spreadsheet of Porta Color model numbers and their corresponding chassis number and Photofact folder. You can view it here:


https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GP8SKSV7EBjYWrVu7AtFUl2oU7p1eyz8LaaJfeEFIYk/edit?usp=docslist_api


I welcome any additions and/or corrections to this document.

Unfortunately the factory labels for this set are long gone. I guessed the year of manufacture based on the cabinet and earlier tube lineup, including the 11sp22 crt.

Have you opened it up? There ought to be some designations inside. At the very least, if you take some photos (external and/or internal), somebody could help identify it.

I had to replace the flyback in my later model (mid-70's) Portacolor. I used a Thordarson from Moyers.

I had it open when it first arrived to attach the power cord, don’t remember seeing any notable labels other than the CRT. I could check again. If it helps at all, the uhf tuner does not have the click stops. I’d gladly post pics but I don’t know what to do since the photobucket fiasco.

The tube lineup is 2gk5, 4lj8, 8ar11, 6lt8, 8bu11, 8bq11, 12jf5, 17bw3, 6ac10, 11fy7, 1ad2, 11bt11, and 12bf11.

Based on the tube lineup, your set is not the H1 chassis, the earliest model. I had the H1 chassis and it had different HO and damper tubes (12GE5 and 12AX3).

My set developed a heater-to-cathode short in one of the CRT guns. Since there was already an isolation transmission transformer in the CRT filament circuit, I simply removed the 220K resistor tying the CRT filament to +145V.

Later on, I came across the later version CRT (11WP22) and replaced the 11SP22. The improvement was quite noticeable due to the smaller dot size of the 11WP22.

I may add the tube lineups to my spreadsheet for each chassis, if anyone thinks it's worthwhile.

I’d gladly post pics but I don’t know what to do since the photobucket fiasco.


Flickr is a good alternative....I was lucky: My bucket filled a few months before the ransom fiasco, and I said "screw it, I'm not paying them for more space", and went to flickr (thus I did not need to search for an alternative hosting site when the sud hit the fan).

User181, anything you do is helpful to me. I can poke around a tube amp, but I’m just getting my feet wet in tv.

I had it open when it first arrived to attach the power cord, don’t remember seeing any notable labels other than the CRT. I could check again. If it helps at all, the uhf tuner does not have the click stops. I’d gladly post pics but I don’t know what to do since the photobucket fiasco.

The tube lineup is 2gk5, 4lj8, 8ar11, 6lt8, 8bu11, 8bq11, 12jf5, 17bw3, 6ac10, 11fy7, 1ad2, 11bt11, and 12bf11.

Looking at your entry #9, you state that the CRT is an 11SP22. I wonder if that's the original CRT.
I have an HD chassis that uses the 12JF5 and 17BW3, plus the 11WP22 and uses a 1DB3 HV rectifier instead of the 1AD2.
If you check carefully, the chassis number might stamped on the HV cage.
BTW, did you check to see if the mini-manual is in the small compartment on the back of the set?

None of my Porta-Colors came through with Mini-Manuals. Only the newer solid state models had them. :sigh:

None of my Porta-Colors came through with Mini-Manuals. Only the newer solid state models had them. :sigh:

Mine did NOT have the mini manual.😡☹️ I’m going off of memory on the CRT, so I could be wrong on the number. It’s also entirely possible this isn’t the original tube, as I bought it restored from a guy who says he was an authorized service technician when these were on the store shelves. I’m familiar with 12ax7’s and the like, compactrons are new territory for me.

Got another clue; mine looks identical to a ‘72 model another member here sent me a photo of.

Mine did NOT have the mini manual.��☹️ I’m going off of memory on the CRT, so I could be wrong on the number. It’s also entirely possible this isn’t the original tube, as I bought it restored from a guy who says he was an authorized service technician when these were on the store shelves. I’m familiar with 12ax7’s and the like, compactrons are new territory for me.
It's probably two or more sets made into one!
I scrapped a 1970 set that had a 11WP22 from new, so the 11SP22 was from an earlier model.
Compactron tubes are multi-section tubes that are really not that different than single or dual unit tubes that you're familiar with.
Example: the 6AC10 is like a triple unit 12AU7. Looking at the schematic will help you understand. :thmbsp:

Compactron tubes are multi-section tubes that are really not that different than single or dual unit tubes that you're familiar with.

Example: the 6AC10 is like a triple unit 12AU7. Looking at the schematic will help you understand. :thmbsp:



Yea. Consider Compactrons to be the electron tube equivalent of a silicon integrated circuit chip, in a way. Loosely equivalent in principle.

Yea. Consider Compactrons to be the electron tube equivalent of a silicon integrated circuit chip, in a way. Loosely equivalent in principle.

It’s just gonna be awhile before I have the numerics down. I can tell what a gz34 or 6973 does off the top of my head. Been reading up on concepts I didn’t need to know before like convergence and sync too. Thanks to a pm here I have another working set on its way to me; you guys are great! Keep the good stuff coming.

It’s just gonna be awhile before I have the numerics down. I can tell what a gz34 or 6973 does off the top of my head. Been reading up on concepts I didn’t need to know before like convergence and sync too. Thanks to a pm here I have another working set on its way to me; you guys are great! Keep the good stuff coming.
Not many people who work on old radios or amplifiers are familiar with Compactron tubes. It's strictly a TV thing, especially GE's. :scratch2:

There were/are some compactron based audio amps, but not many.

There were/are some compactron based audio amps, but not many.
Weren't you thinking of Novar based tubes, 7868 RCA's answer to the 7591?

Possible, I tend to think of all (non-octal) tubes of that diameter as compactrons irrespective of their pin count. The one vintage amp I saw was in an organ...I don't remember the number and never pulled the tube.

Audiophiles are making amps with compactrons now as a way to use cheaper tubes.

Since the conversation has shifted focus to compactrons, I guess now is the time to ask. Can you guys recommend a compactron tester I could find easily on fleabay? If one tube goes bad I don’t want to do the Christmas light trial and error thingy. Series string isn’t something you typically see on the hifi side.

Since the conversation has shifted focus to compactrons, I guess now is the time to ask. Can you guys recommend a compactron tester I could find easily on fleabay? If one tube goes bad I don’t want to do the Christmas light trial and error thingy. Series string isn’t something you typically see on the hifi side.

A tube manual and multi-meter set on ohms or continuity is all you need to find an open heater. Compactron tubes, the heater pin are 1&12, either side of the gap.
Re: the tube checker! A Sencore Mighty-mite or other modern tube checker that has Compactron and Novar sockets would do fine.
I bought a full compliment of tubes for my PortaColors, except the 12JF5 for a buck each from ESRC, dollar-days list.
For the damper tube I use a 19CG3 instead. It's a better tube and two extra volts in the heater string is better. :thmbsp:

since the conversation has shifted focus to compactrons, i guess now is the time to ask. Can you guys recommend a compactron tester i could find easily on fleabay? If one tube goes bad i don’t want to do the christmas light trial and error thingy. Series string isn’t something you typically see on the hifi side.

eico 667, that's what I use and I am very happy with it. If you don't plan on getting too heavy into this, a spare set of tubes you can substitute in as required would be much cheaper

My B&K dyna-jet 606 has served me well on everything octal and newer.

Already got a set of spares. I could use a tester for some other projects anyway, so it wouldn’t be wasted money. I’m starting to think maybe I bit off more than I can chew, and should have started with black and white tv first. I’m learning that color has a lot more going on.

Already got a set of spares. I could use a tester for some other projects anyway, so it wouldn’t be wasted money. I’m starting to think maybe I bit off more than I can chew, and should have started with black and white tv first. I’m learning that color has a lot more going on.
I was under the impression that the set was working.
What about the other set you mentioned as having for parts. Does it work?

I was under the impression that the set was working.
What about the other set you mentioned as having for parts. Does it work?

Sorry for the confusion-yes, the restored set is working like brand new and has the upgraded polarized cord to avoid a hot chassis. I just like to have spares of everything, hence my search for parts. I’d like to start cutting my teeth on the donor set to learn what I’m doing.

Sorry for the confusion-yes, the restored set is working like brand new and has the upgraded polarized cord to avoid a hot chassis. I just like to have spares of everything, hence my search for parts. I’d like to start cutting my teeth on the donor set to learn what I’m doing.
Every PortaColor ever made came from the factory with a polarized power cord from the first one.
It seems that every transformerless GE set, B/W and color was equipped that way. Also, most other US makes from the early 60's did as well. Probably easier to get U/L approval. :thmbsp:

Every PortaColor ever made came from the factory with a polarized power cord from the first one.
It seems that every transformerless GE set, B/W and color was equipped that way. Also, most other US makes from the early 60's did as well. Probably easier to get U/L approval. :thmbsp:

Not Zenith though, or Admiral.

Every PortaColor ever made came from the factory with a polarized power cord from the first one.
It seems that every transformerless GE set, B/W and color was equipped that way. Also, most other US makes from the early 60's did as well. Probably easier to get U/L approval. :thmbsp:

Well, there is no "easier" - you either get it or not. In the 60s or early 70s, UL increased the required temperature rating of all internal wiring. I remember Motorola replacing all their wire stock with the new stuff, which had to be stamped all along its length with the new temp rating number.

Every PortaColor ever made came from the factory with a polarized power cord from the first one.
It seems that every transformerless GE set, B/W and color was equipped that way. Also, most other US makes from the early 60's did as well. Probably easier to get U/L approval. :thmbsp:

Didn’t know that. Mine came with a non polarized plug which proved defective later, so the seller replaced it on his dime. It didn’t look new, and it didn’t look like a blade was ground down. Old aftermarket replacement maybe? UL hadn’t even crossed my mind.

Is the purpose of the polarized cord solely for safety, or are there any other reasons as well?

My set's plug was replaced at one point, and the replacement plug is non-polarized. Is there any concern/risk of damage to the set if it's operated with the polarity flipped? I wouldn't think so, but just wanted to ask.

The interlock on the back of the set it's self is polarized. The plug on the cord should be to if original or correct replacement.
The main advantage of a polarized cord is that the building neutral ( which is grounded) can be always wired to chassis (assuming the electrician that wired your building wired the outlet polarity correctly) making the set safer.
Since the 50's the UL required hot chassis sets to not have any exposed metal cabinet hardware with connection to the chassis so the polarized cord is redundant.
The set does not care about polarity given to it.

I had a number of customers in the early 60s who had cheap record players that their kids used in the basement, often with bare concrete floors. While they only got a tickle and not a full shock, I nevertheless installed polarized plugs on these record players. No more tickle.

I had a number of customers in the early 60s who had cheap record players that their kids used in the basement, often with bare concrete floors. While they only got a tickle and not a full shock, I nevertheless installed polarized plugs on these record players. No more tickle.

Hey, I remember using a cheap record player in the basement, and getting a shock! Cheap thing with a Garrard changer, and two 50EH5 tubes.

Didn’t know that. Mine came with a non polarized plug which proved defective later, so the seller replaced it on his dime. It didn’t look new, and it didn’t look like a blade was ground down. Old aftermarket replacement maybe? UL hadn’t even crossed my mind.
The GE sets came with a male connector on the chassis that had a smaller and larger pin. I've seen where a non-polarized cord was forced on the connector. Most of the time it didn't make that good of a contact.
My earlier PortaColor didn't come with the proper cord. Driving down the street, I saw a small B/W GE solid state portable next to the trash. I wasn't going to stop, but I saw it had the perfect power cord for my PortaColor that was in perfect condition. Not too many later model sets came through with interlocking power cords. :scratch2:

Is the purpose of the polarized cord solely for safety, or are there any other reasons as well?

My set's plug was replaced at one point, and the replacement plug is non-polarized. Is there any concern/risk of damage to the set if it's operated with the polarity flipped? I wouldn't think so, but just wanted to ask.

Yes. So the customer cuts the prongs to fit...........
All kidding aside we changed all modified cords as a CYA step. They
are redundant as everything is plastic. No effect on operating the TV.
BTW some chassii are hot either way......

As for doing a B&W first just get your set to be as good a B&W first
then worry about color.
Series string sets to find open filament do this.
Meter on AC, ground one lead. Go along pin 1 & 12 til you find one
with no AC on one pin.
BTW you will measure 120VAC all along the string. That will not match
the data. Its because with the open there is no current so no voltage
drop along the string.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Yes. So the customer cuts the prongs to fit...........
All kidding aside we changed all modified cords as a CYA step. They
are redundant as everything is plastic. No effect on operating the TV.
BTW some chassii are hot either way......

As for doing a B&W first just get your set to be as good a B&W first
then worry about color.
Series string sets to find open filament do this.
Meter on AC, ground one lead. Go along pin 1 & 12 til you find one
with no AC on one pin.
BTW you will measure 120VAC all along the string. That will not match
the data. Its because with the open there is no current so no voltage
drop along the string.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !
I've done it both ways. Many times you can't get at the entire bottom of the chassis or PC board. The PortaColors are a classic example. I usually go for the higher voltage voltage tubes in the string, but that isn't always true.
BTW, those PortaColors sure are nasty to totally disassemble to replace the CRT.

Dieseljeep, you are right about the higher voltage tubes failing more often.

I used to amaze customers of series string sets when I would get the set working after subbing only one tube: the damper. Dampers just took a beating and failed at a high rate.

I've done it both ways. Many times you can't get at the entire bottom of the chassis or PC board. The PortaColors are a classic example. I usually go for the higher voltage voltage tubes in the string, but that isn't always true.
BTW, those PortaColors sure are nasty to totally disassemble to replace the CRT.

Areas covered with plastic, especially GE's, were why dikes were invented !
Also found damper most likely followed by a tuner tube. For the tuner
part of string find the brown wire ( most sets ).
Never did a jug on a PC. Only ones changed were under warranty.
GE had a way of "pouring" parts into a set without a care in the world
that someone would have to fix it some day. When the started building
some great stuff they were soon gone.........

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Yes. So the customer cuts the prongs to fit...........
All kidding aside we changed all modified cords as a CYA step. They
are redundant as everything is plastic. No effect on operating the TV.
BTW some chassii are hot either way......

As for doing a B&W first just get your set to be as good a B&W first
then worry about color.
Series string sets to find open filament do this.
Meter on AC, ground one lead. Go along pin 1 & 12 til you find one
with no AC on one pin.
BTW you will measure 120VAC all along the string. That will not match
the data. Its because with the open there is no current so no voltage
drop along the string.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !Good call, appreciate the tech info and won’t waste my time with b&w. I’m gonna set up a Flickr account shortly so I can get some pics going for you guys.

Good call, appreciate the tech info and won’t waste my time with b&w. I’m gonna set up a Flickr account shortly so I can get some pics going for you guys.
The only reason B/W sets were recommended was to get your trouble shooting skills up to speed. I have several B/W sets, but if the program is in color, I prefer to see it in color. When I first working on TV's, I never seen a color set, except in the stores and there was seldom anything on in color. The B/W pictures on the color sets didn't compare with the pictures on the B/W sets of the day. I'm surprised that they sold as many sets as they did. :scratch2:

I’m gonna set up a Flickr account shortly so I can get some pics going for you guys.You don't need Flickr. You can post them directly to VideoKarma using the Attach Files feature on the Reply page. That way if your hosting site ever takes a dump, hopefully the pictures will still remain here.

.

Here goes. If this works, these are pictures of my restored set. Merry Christmas everyone!

Here goes. If this works, these are pictures of my restored set. Merry Christmas everyone!
It's amazing how some of the sets that didn't have that much collector's interest before, can receive that many inquiries at this time.
An important piece of color TV history and design. :thmbsp:

My newest arrival, courtesy of another member here. I’ll post pics of my parts set when I’ve cleared a path to it.

My newest arrival, courtesy of another member here. I’ll post pics of my parts set when I’ve cleared a path to it.
'That's the hi-voltage focus model, HE chassis. Probably that last of the production run. I have two of this model. I didn't change the boost filter caps in my two yet. .1 mfd @ 1000 volts. It's located on the side of the HV cage, instead of the PC board, like the earlier models. :scratch2:

...

'That's the hi-voltage focus model, HE chassis. Probably that last of the production run. I have two of this model. I didn't change the boost filter caps in my two yet. .1 mfd @ 1000 volts. It's located on the side of the HV cage, instead of the PC board, like the earlier models. :scratch2:

Did you try the set out? It looks like it's in rather decent shape.
I haven't tried my PC's in a few years. I just fired up one of my later models and it looks pretty good. AFAIC, it's still better than watching B/W. The sound is better than many of the small import solid state sets. :thmbsp:

My newest arrival, courtesy of another member here. I’ll post pics of my parts set when I’ve cleared a path to it.

I like the cabinets on the later ones. Looks like it should be solid state...lol

Did you try the set out? It looks like it's in rather decent shape.
I haven't tried my PC's in a few years. I just fired up one of my later models and it looks pretty good. AFAIC, it's still better than watching B/W. The sound is better than many of the small import solid state sets. :thmbsp:

I had to wait a day to let it recover from a cold soak on the porch, it’s bitter cold here in NW Indiana this week. But yes, it works surprisingly well with no strange noises or smells and the pots are relatively clean. It was demo’d for me immediately before packing so I was really just worried about it surviving shipping. Before I peek inside, does anyone know the tube lineup for this model?

I know of two CRTs for the Porta Color sets: 11SP22 and 11WP22. Was there a third CRT used in these sets?

I had to wait a day to let it recover from a cold soak on the porch, it’s bitter cold here in NW Indiana this week. But yes, it works surprisingly well with no strange noises or smells and the pots are relatively clean. It was demo’d for me immediately before packing so I was really just worried about it surviving shipping. Before I peek inside, does anyone know the tube lineup for this model?

The weather hasn't been exactly a treat here! Below zero at night, single digits during the day, with a nasty wind.
Where in NW Indiana are you located?
The tube compliment is about the same as the older models with maybe a few changes, HV rectifier etc. CRT is designated under the newer standards, 10V. IIRC, 10VABP22A.

I like the cabinets on the later ones. Looks like it should be solid state...lol
The first solid state PortaColor was an ugly, boxy looking thing. The next model resembled the tube type styling.
The CRT was similar, but with a 12v heater.
All the 10/11" PortaColors only had a 70 degree sweep, so the tubes were a lot longer.

The weather hasn't been exactly a treat here! Below zero at night, single digits during the day, with a nasty wind.
Where in NW Indiana are you located?
The tube compliment is about the same as the older models with maybe a few changes, HV rectifier etc. CRT is designated under the newer standards, 10V. IIRC, 10VABP22A.

I’m in southern Lake county and it’s been block heater/antigel weather all week. The box was so cold it got condensation as soon as I brought it in, so I didn’t dare open it for obvious reasons. I’ll open the set itself on a day off and see if the manual is in it. I don’t know if I should bother with a recap yet?

I’m in southern Lake county and it’s been block heater/antigel weather all week. The box was so cold it got condensation as soon as I brought it in, so I didn’t dare open it for obvious reasons. I’ll open the set itself on a day off and see if the manual is in it. I don’t know if I should bother with a recap yet?

That set doesn't have a manual in it. The mini-manual was only in the slightly newer models, usually solid state.
The only cap, I would worry about is the boost cap, .1mfd @ 1kv or 1.2kv.

You guys didn’t help me directly, but I got enough to figure what I needed; photofacts for my sets directly from sams. Thanks a bunch, finding schematics for vintage electronics is a bitch!

Paying it forward, I now have Sams folders 1223-2 and the HE chassis. The sheets are too big for my scanner but if anyone needs particular sections I’m more than happy to oblige!!