Any input on these black and white sets, are they nightmares as I never had these. The little one is an RCA and the red and white is admiral. Ok si it's upside down and I'll post a pic of the other set.

Here's the admiral.

The RCA is difficult to work on, the chassis unfolds into sections but it's still a pain.

The Admiral uses PC boards and is fairly easy to work on as I recall.

I have both those models and they're two of the best small-screen portable '50's TV's in both style and performance. I had a friend restore both for me many years ago and they still work very well. They're much better sets than the small screen GE/Hotpoint models.

Never have had the Admiral, but I have several RCAs... not easy sets to work on, but very decent performance for such a compact set. Phyl Nelson tells all here:

https://antiqueradio.org/rca16.htm

jr

The RCA is a neat set, with a power transformer,too

The RCA is a neat set, with a power transformer,too

Yes transformer and it's why such a small set is so heavy.

Does anyone have a schematic for these sets. The admiral crt tests very good but there are a few black caps that have the value in stripes on them in the rear leaking oil so there no good. And the crt adjusting rings I think used to have rubber to hold them on is completely gone so I have to make something up for that. Bad idea to keep the seleniums or put diodes ?

The ETF has the factory manual for the RCA model 8PT-70x0 series covers early and late production. If the ADMIRAL is a 10" its' in SAMS #350-1 which the ETF also has the SAMS. All the best, Tom.J

The ETF has the factory manual for the RCA model 8PT-70x0 series covers early and late production. If the ADMIRAL is a 10" its' in SAMS #350-1 which the ETF also has the SAMS. All the best, Tom.J

The crt is a 14 inch.

The same SAMS folder is used for the 14Y3PC (14") as for the 10" 14Y3PB. All the best, Tom.J

Thanks tom

I have both those models and they're two of the best small-screen portable '50's TV's in both style and performance. I had a friend restore both for me many years ago and they still work very well. They're much better sets than the small screen GE/Hotpoint models.

Wasn't mentioned, but the 8" Emerson was the best of the lot. Power transformer, Conventional circuitry, full superhet AM radio tuner, Standard Coil tuner with UHF in most. Jack for phono and external speaker. A little easier to work on.
UHF was not available in the RCA. Unconventional circuitry, where the 1st IF was part of the tuner. Minimal performer at best.
The Admiral 10,14 and 17" models were similar. :scratch2:

I've restored several of these. Here a thread you might find useful. Yes, replace the seleniums.

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=250143

I've restored several of these. Here a thread you might find useful. Yes, replace the seleniums.

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=250143

Good thread. Is it really needed to use dropper resistors for diodes instead of seleniums.

Yes, I'm surprised you ask. I know you've replaced them in Motorrola VT-71s.
Selenium rectifiers gradually increase in resistance over time even when not used. Eventually, they fail in a big cloud of very foul smelling smoke. Took days to get the smell out of my place last time it happened :yuck:

Yes, I'm surprised you ask. I know you've replaced them in Motorrola VT-71s.
Selenium rectifiers gradually increase in resistance over time even when not used. Eventually, they fail in a big cloud of very foul smelling smoke. Took days to get the smell out of my place last time it happened :yuck:

What I mean is it important to use resistors with the diodes.

The 12dq6 and 12dq6b are these for the most part the same, could it be used in the admiral which had the one without the b .

What I mean is it important to use resistors with the diodes.

I don't know for sure. Definitely if you don't use them B+ will be higher than specified - especially if your AC outlets are more than the 117 VAC it was designed for. I'm use something like 47 to 100 ohms 5W and see how B+ measures once the set is up and running.

The 12dq6 and 12dq6b are these for the most part the same, could it be used in the admiral which had the one without the b .

Yes, generally speaking tubes with A, B, C etc suffixes have superior specs to the earlier version and can sub for them.

I don't know for sure. Definitely if you don't use them B+ will be higher than specified - especially if your AC outlets are more than the 117 VAC it was designed for. I'm use something like 47 to 100 ohms 5W and see how B+ measures once the set is up and running.



Yes, generally speaking tubes with A, B, C etc suffixes have superior specs to the earlier version and can sub for them.
Do you know what the b+ voltage is on that admiral ?

Main B+ is 255 volts going by the SAMS. Go to the ETF site and download the folder for the tv. Tom.J

I read bandersens thread on the same tv I have, and he changed the dual diode because of lousy horiz lock and I'm wondering if I could use a dual diode that are normally in the color sets the small black block with the 3 legs. If I should need to change it.