Here are a few pics of the GE 810 that I won on eBay and Tim was gracious enough to pick it up for me. Next to get it to the ETF Convention and maybe I can get it from there or a trip to Buffalo where I can get it. We'll see what my schedule brings.

The pictures are from today taken by the seller just before Tim left with the TV.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/GE%20810/IMG953808a_zpsf1yml28v.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/GE%20810/IMG953808a_zpsf1yml28v.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/GE%20810/IMG953807a_zpsp4gy38ao.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/GE%20810/IMG953807a_zpsp4gy38ao.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/GE%20810/IMG953809a_zpsbut15jhj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/GE%20810/IMG953809a_zpsbut15jhj.jpg.html)

Then Tim sent me these pictures after he got home. One is the CRT test and the other is what the inside looks like. Looks like I need a HV door?

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/GE%20810/20170215_145717a_zpsdn7k1yfy.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/GE%20810/20170215_145717a_zpsdn7k1yfy.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/GE%20810/20170215_145853a_zpsfwnait7p.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/GE%20810/20170215_145853a_zpsfwnait7p.jpg.html)

Nice good 10FP4 in it.

Crist:

Actually, there never was a back cover for the HV shield.

Crist:

Actually, there never was a back cover for the HV shield.

OK, I didn't know that. Looks complete now.

Your help is appreciated.

Here's one I sold on Radio Attic a few years ago. I really like the big brass panel on these and the bold placement of the word "Television" right in the middle below the screen. They work very well when restored. The 10FP4 picture tube gives a nice bright picture.
http://www.videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=193854&stc=1&d=1487219512
Is that the original finish on yours? If so, that's in fabulous shape.

One of the more difficult problems as I recall is how to clean the grill cloth. Mine came out so-so as far as the grill cloth goes. Looking forward to seeing how yours comes out!

Here's one I sold on Radio Attic a few years ago. I really like the big brass panel on these and the bold placement of the word "Television" right in the middle below the screen. They work very well when restored. The 10FP4 picture tube gives a nice bright picture.
http://www.videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=193854&stc=1&d=1487219512
Is that the original finish on yours? If so, that's in fabulous shape.

From what I understand and what the seller has told me, yes, it is the original finish. It was kept in his grandmothers room as a piece of furniture and taken care of.
When I saw the picture he sent, I was amazed how nice the cabinet was. Whew!

BTW, your 810 looks beautiful. Did you do a restore thread on it?

Crist:

Actually, there never was a back cover for the HV shield.Why wouldn't there ever been a door there? The top of the cage even has the screw hole to mount it.

.

The back screws into the hole at the top of the HV cage. You can see it in the upper left of mine.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4104/5191490590_141abd5bac_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/8UKKhs)

The back screws into the hole at the top of the HV cage. You can see it in the upper left of mine.

Thanks, Bob. That would explain it.

.

Yeah, the screw hole in the HV cage had me thinking that there was a door. But now I see where the back cover is held on by a screw through the HV cage.

Interesting design. It looks like you can pull the chassis without unscrewing or removing the back, and the back and interlock cord will stay connected to the chassis. I can't recall seeing anything like that before on a TV...Sort of reminds me of an AA5 chassis with the back/loop ant attached to the chassis.

One of the more difficult problems as I recall is how to clean the grill cloth. Mine came out so-so as far as the grill cloth goes. Looking forward to seeing how yours comes out!

Hobby Lobby actually had a darn close match.....a bit brighter than the original, but new grille cloth sure makes the set pop! And it's semi-stiff to boot, which makes it easy to apply wrinkle free.

I restored mine a couple years ago and it's a great performer. It's one of my favorites in my collection. Yours is in fantastic condition.

I had the set done for about 4 hours, and another collector stopped by for some reason or other, saw it, and had to have it. Started laying out $20 bills in front of me while I shook my head. When it got to be quite a large pile, I finally capitulated......

That TV could very well be the best original finish in existence of that model. For what it's worth I have a parts chassis up in my attic.

I scanned the Riders section for the GE 810. They are hi-res documents.

The Riders is here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ccma471hcedbcmz/Riders%20TV2%20GE%20810.pdf?dl=0

The 24x36 schematic is here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o6iodpr0dync6i8/GE%20810%20Schematic%2024%20x%2036.pdf?dl=0

That TV could very well be the best original finish in existence of that model. For what it's worth I have a parts chassis up in my attic.

You just never see them in nice shape, as opposed to say a 630TS where there's a really nice one around every corner. I wonder why that is??

You just never see them in nice shape, as opposed to say a 630TS where there's a really nice one around every corner. I wonder why that is??

Typically, as with cars, they were cheap and reliable, and got run into the ground until they stopped.

Well, I've been looking at this set for some time and it's time to get on with the restoration.

Here are a few pics of what I'm starting with. It was the usual dirty and a trip to the car wash cleaned it up enough to get started with.

I tested all the tubes and they all tested in the green. Some were pretty low, so those will get replaced.

It looks pretty much unmolested. There was some work done on the chassis but it doesn't look like anything was butchered.

Tomorrow I'll pick up my order of resistors and E-Caps from Mouser and then we'll get serious.

I powered it up on the bench today. I got some audio and a small raster. Then I noticed a small whiff of smoke coming from the back of the chassis. I shut it down right away. Enough of that for sure. At least I know what I have now.

BTW, it looks like this was from run 11? and the serial number is 053219.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5359a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5361a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5365a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5377a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5389a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5391a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5411a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5412a.jpg

Wow that one cleaned up real well at the car wash. Almost looks like aluminum, but I'm pretty sure they are cadmium plated steel. Do you ever use anything like Spray 9 before you give them a soak down with the spray wand?

Wow that one cleaned up real well at the car wash. Almost looks like aluminum, but I'm pretty sure they are cadmium plated steel. Do you ever use anything like Spray 9 before you give them a soak down with the spray wand?

Kevin,
It is CAD plated steel. I guess the dirt "preserved" the CAD plating.

All I do at the car wash is to use the "Presoak" to hose it down. The Presoak is a gentle spray. Then I use the "Spot Free Rinse" to clean off the chassis. Of course I keep about a 3 foot distance from the wand to the chassis when rinsing.

The dark anti-glare screen is interesting. I've seen a number of sets without it so I wonder if it was aftermarket or a lesser seen production change or option.

It is incredible how clean that chassis is... about the only time you see the broad surface that clean is on sets where the chassis was mounted vertical.

Your carwash method seems to work really well but it scares me somewhat. I'm concerned about moisture getting into IF cans etc and being trapped there but the proof is in the pudding I suppose as you have done it many times without a problem.
I'll have to try it out on a chassis I don't care about much just to prove it to myself.

Nice set though. I'm sure it will come up a treat in your hands.

i'd never do such a thing :o

Back in 1965 my company bought a new Tektronix storage oscilloscope. Tek sent out a technician to give us a class on maintaining the new oscilloscope. He advocated cleaning the chassis periodically with a spray of water. We were floored, but he assured us that was the right way to keep things clean.

We never used water to clean the unit the entire time we owned it. We did use compressed air to blow out the dust from time to time.

Your carwash method seems to work really well but it scares me somewhat. I'm concerned about moisture getting into IF cans etc and being trapped there but the proof is in the pudding I suppose as you have done it many times without a problem.
I'll have to try it out on a chassis I don't care about much just to prove it to myself.

Nice set though. I'm sure it will come up a treat in your hands.

Don't forget that I bake the chassis for several hours in the oven in the Winter or leave it out in the Texas sun during the summer after the car wash.

Spent the last day labeling all the components as usual.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5420a.jpg



Went to Mouser today and picked up my order. Here are all the components ready to go back in.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5419a.jpg

Don't forget that I bake the chassis for several hours in the oven in the Winter or leave it out in the Texas sun during the summer after the car wash.

Texas sun?

you are in the Dallas area?

I ask this because you said that you WENT to mouser, and I know that is where they are. Mansfield, TX.
i get my parts from them, it get here in 1 day UPS ground.

I live in Waxahachie. About a 20 minute drive to Mouser on 287.

I didn't realize Mouser stocked those yellow axial lead capacitors? Despite all the controversy I still think those are the most accurate modern replacement for our TV's and radios.

I didn't realize Mouser stocked those yellow axial lead capacitors? Despite all the controversy I still think those are the most accurate modern replacement for our TV's and radios.

I get the yellow caps from Sals Capacitors. Mouser does have yellow caps too. I just get them from Sal.

I try to use Xicon brand carbon film 1W resistors. They cost less than 4 cents each when buying more than 10 at a time. I'll typically buy 25 or 50 of each value that I need. The 2W and 3W resistors are again Xicon and are metal oxide and the 2W cost about 8 cents and the 3W costs about 10 cents.

I try to use Nichicon E-caps with 105C temperature and 10,000 hour ratings.

Mouser does have a Will Call that means I can call in an order and it'll be ready in an hour to pick up. No minimum purchase too. They're great people there.

I live in Waxahachie. About a 20 minute drive to Mouser on 287.

j have been to Waxahachie a few times, i had a friend who lived there, but then NASA dropped a Space Shuttle on there ,,, :(

but that's another story.

I try to use Nichicon E-caps with 105C temperature and 10,000 hour ratings.



Good call. Most folks look at four things: value, voltage, lead configuration and cost.

The great thing about Mouser and DigiKey is that the filtering process opens up a world of info. I always look for high temp, high hour, and depending on circuit, low ESR and/or high pulse. .20c difference in cost may be nothing in small quantities, but when you're buying a million of them, we can see why manufacturers spec a lower rated component when they can get away with it.

In these low frequency applications like TV and radio, just a good quality 105c high hour cap is perfect.

I always use Panasonic caps when they're available. I've spent a lifetime in consumer electronics and have rarely seen a Panasonic cap bail.

John

I didn't realize Mouser stocked those yellow axial lead capacitors? Despite all the controversy I still think those are the most accurate modern replacement for our TV's and radios.

The yellow caps are fine (I've got 20 year old recaped sets with them still going strong) as long as you don't touch your soldering iron to the side and short the cap by melting the layers of plastic and foil together (made that mistake more than once).

Lately I tend to use the maroon Panasonic caps for straight recap work and save the yellow caps for restuffing (where they are better spatially than the Panasonic caps).

I re-stuffed the 3 E-Caps C1, C2, and C3 in my usual manner and installed them into the chassis. I'll buff out and install the cans later on.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5425a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5426a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5427a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5428a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5446a.jpg



I then decided to tackle the front panel controls. Each control was removed, checked for value, checked for dead spots, cleaned, lubed, and the shafts were then polished and a coat of clear from Mohawk that is safe for brass. I then worked on each terminal strip near the controls. The tuner shaft will be polished when I work on the tuner at a later date.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5429a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5448a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5440a-rotated.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5441a-rotated.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5442a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5443a.jpg

I like your can restuffing technique. It's different than mine which I will post at some point. I only restuffed paper caps on one radio because the customer wanted it, but restuffing the cans is the best option because it doesn't add any clutter underneath the deck, and if someone is using a SAMS or another identical chassis for reference, they still look the same.

But we have the same issue: what adhesive to use for bonding the cans back together?

I've been using two part epoxy, and indeed, it will be decades at least before they would ever need to be addressed again, but I was thinking about using a high temp hot glue or even hide glue. In other words, something that can allow the cans to be taken back apart with heat.

Oh, and your wiring is FAR too neat!! :D


John

I like your can restuffing technique. It's different than mine which I will post at some point. I only restuffed paper caps on one radio because the customer wanted it, but restuffing the cans is the best option because it doesn't add any clutter underneath the deck, and if someone is using a SAMS or another identical chassis for reference, they still look the same.

But we have the same issue: what adhesive to use for bonding the cans back together.

I've been using two part epoxy, and indeed, it will be decades at least before they would ever need to be addressed again, but I was thinking about using a high temp hot glue or even hide glue. In other words, something that can allow the cans to be taken back apart with heat.

Oh, and your wiring is FAR too neat!! :D


John

Thanks for the kind words.
I don't glue the cans back on. I just slide them back over the plastic sleeve. It's a slight friction fit. That way, the cans can be simply removed by lifting them off.

Thanks for the kind words.
I don't glue the cans back on. I just slide them back over the plastic sleeve. It's a slight friction fit. That way, the cans can be simply removed by lifting them off.

Wow. Excellent idea. Is the PVC bonded to the bottom of the can or is that also a friction fit?

John

Wow. Excellent idea. Is the PVC bonded to the bottom of the can or is that also a friction fit?

John

The white PVC sleeve is epoxied to the base of the capacitor.

Here is a link that goes into detail of how I restuff E-Caps.

http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.php?p=3170851&postcount=46

I then did the terminal strip near the CRT.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5449a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5463a.jpg


I then started down the left side of the chassis which is the IF strip and finished up near the power transformer.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5451a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5465a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5453a-rotated.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5456a.jpg

Were the original box caps actually micas, or papers that looked like micas? Is there a way to tell? I have a 51 Andrea with a bunch of the beige "micas" that look like those in your TV and I'm not sure if they actually are mica or not.


John

Were the original box caps actually micas, or papers that looked like micas? Is there a way to tell? I have a 51 Andrea with a bunch of the beige "micas" that look like those in your TV and I'm not sure if they actually are mica or not.


John

Good rule of thumb is to check the rated capacitance... usually everything below .001uF=1000pF (or mmf if you prefer the old notation) is genuine mica and everything .0047 and up is paper. I typically replace every rectangular cap .001uF and above with film caps. Even true micas are prone to failure in sweep circuits so ordering spares for those for the sake of our mutual friend Justin Case is an advisable measure to take.:D

Good rule of thumb is to check the rated capacitance... usually everything below .001uF=1000pF (or mmf if you prefer the old notation) is genuine mica and everything .0047 and up is paper. I typically replace every rectangular cap above .001uF with film caps. Even true micas are prone to failure in sweep circuits so ordering spares for those for the sake of our mutual friend Justin Case is an advisable measure to take.:D

Thanks Tom.

John

Thanks Tom.

John

You're welcome.

More progress.

I did V3, V4, V5 the IF tubes, V7 the Video Amp, V17 the Vertical Multivibrator, and V18 the Vertical Output tube.

I decided to use the "coil" method on the 7 and 9 pin tube sockets. I didn't want to damage them. I did completely remove the component from the 8 pin tube sockets and terminal strips.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5462a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5481a.jpg

This evening I finished the recap.

I then replaced all the tubes and used my variac to power it up while monitoring B+ and current draw.

I got a picture and some faint audio. I haven't done a thing to the tuner and that will be next. Very flaky.

Here are some pictures of the completed underside and a picture of the CRT picture.

Getting there.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5534a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5536a-rotated.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5538a-rotated.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5527a.jpg

No, I think that's the way Jack Klugman looks...:scratch2:

Wow, unbelievably neat work.

I'm actually surprised it's not performing better given all the new parts installed. The good news the tube looks fairly strong.

John

Tim Allen.

Tim Allen.

Lol, in that case it needs more work!!

John

OK, I found the problem with the lousy video.

I removed the tuner and cleaned it, used some Deoxit on the wafer switches, lubed it and checked all the resistors. All the resistors checked good. I had replacements pulled from my stock, but decided to leave well enough alone. Some of the resistors were pretty well buried. Reinstalled the tuner and sure enough same lousy video!

I directly injected video signal at the 1st video amp and got a decent picture. However the H and V holds were very touchy!

So I knew my problem was from the tuner through the IF section. I decided to do a resistance check. Sure enough pin 2 of V6 the 6AL5 tube showed 5K when it should be 3.5M. There is a typo on the resistance chart for V7 the 12AU7 pin 6. The chart shows 48K but should be 4.8K. V3, V4, V5 pin 5 shows the resistance should be 13K, but I measured 1.5K. I'm guessing another typo. I flipped the chassis over and confirmed that I had installed the right 3.9M R60 Sams. Then I notice that coil L16 was pressed down and touching pin 2. Bingo! I then added some insulation to the lead of coil L16 to prevent that from happening.

I now have a decent picture, some sound with a lot of buzzing/hum, and a very stable H and V hold circuits. I also measure the HV at 10 to 10.9KV depending on where the "Brightness" control is at. The Contrast control seems to work but is touchy and the picture disappears pretty quickly after about 1/3 down from full contrast.

I now need to check the alignment and get the audio where it should be. Then set up the focus coil/centering magnets, picture size and linearities. I have to look into adding the blanking circuit and the rest of the changes that are listed in Riders.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5547a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5551a.jpg

I added the blanking circuit according to Riders C3-2. I relocated the yellow wire (pin 11) and added the 24K resistor. I added another terminal strip and added the other caps and resistor. Then added a yellow wire to the VOT. This mod worked great!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5556a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5555a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5557a.jpg


I then added a circuit also shown in Riders C3-2. This added bias to V2 to help eliminate audio buzzing.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5553a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5554a.jpg

Hey, tidy work as usual. By coincidence, I recently finished a GE 810 of my own.

according to Riders C3-2.What Riders doc are you referencing? The Riders manual that I have seen uses page numbers like 2-20, 2-21, etc.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Hey, tidy work as usual. By coincidence, I recently finished a GE 810 of my own.

What Riders doc are you referencing? The Riders manual that I have seen uses page numbers like 2-20, 2-21, etc.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Phil,
C3-2 is the Change section of Riders Volume 3 page 2 of the change section.

Hey, tidy work as usual. By coincidence, I recently finished a GE 810 of my own.


I can't seem to find the article on your site. C'mon man, your public is waiting! :D

Nor could I.:no::sigh:

C3-2 is the Change section of Riders Volume 3 page 2 of the change section.Ah, now I see:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/changes_rider_3.pdf

Re my 810, the restoration is done, but the article is still a-brewin' . I should be able to finish it soon, though (I swear that is not a lie, totally not a lie . . . ).

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Ah, now I see:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/changes_rider_3.pdf

Re my 810, the restoration is done, but the article is still a-brewin' . I should be able to finish it soon, though (I swear that is not a lie, totally not a lie . . . ).

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html
Quality takes time ... And good things are worth the wait.

Well talk about bad luck! I was aligning the audio and had just finished up the last tweak when I lost the picture! After a few moments, the L2 filter choke started to sizzle and spit out wax. At the same time the 5U4G was pinballing! I quickly shut it down and the choke continued to sizzle for a few seconds.

I remembered reading when Phil restored his 810 he had an almost identical situation. His yoke windings has shorted together. So I checked mine. Same thing.

Looks like I'm in the market for a yoke. I have a junker 806 I'll see if the yoke is the same. EDIT: NOPE THE 806 IS NOT THE SAME.

Below is a link to Phil's experience.

https://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=2931967#p2931967

Sucks that it happened, esp after all you have done so far...

But I do have to ask...
Unfamiliar term... :saywhat::saywhat:

"5U4G was pinballing!"

pinballing?
Not heard that used in relation to tubes before. :o

Sucks that it happened, esp after all you have done so far...

But I do have to ask...
Unfamiliar term... :saywhat::saywhat:

"5U4G was pinballing!"

pinballing?
Not heard that used in relation to tubes before. :o

There were flashes coming from the tube.

Sucks that it happened, esp after all you have done so far...

But I do have to ask...
Unfamiliar term... :saywhat::saywhat:

"5U4G was pinballing!"

pinballing?
Not heard that used in relation to tubes before. :o


Take an old defective tube. Put it in the microwave for a few seconds..

John

I wouldn't suggest putting anything metallic in a microwave. :no:

I wouldn't suggest putting anything metallic in a microwave. :no:


how about microwave plasma using the old grape trick? :p

AKA--- July 4th came early inside the 5U4 tube... :)

SR

I fixed the yoke! I think it was shorting out on the inner tube windings.

I used my heat gun to warm up the inner tube and slid it out of the yoke. This was a mistake. You see the inner tube has some very fine wire windings on it and when I slide the tube out, I broke the fine wire lead that was soldered to the black wire that is grounded to the chassis. You can see it in this photo where the lead is insulated with a small 1/8 long fiberglass sleeve between the 2 layers of windings.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5562a.jpg


I then continued to disassemble the yoke by separating the 2 windings. They sure liked to used that real sticky cloth tape!

When I removed the aluminum shell I saw that the windings were wrapped with a thin sheet of metal.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5563a.jpg


The next group of pictures show the disassembled yoke parts.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5564a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5565a.jpg

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The next group shows the inner tube and its windings. This is where I think the short occurred. The windings are covered with a very thin plastic type of material. Well there was 1 spot that the windings were worn through and shiny copper colored. You can see this in the picture with the pencil pointing to the worn through spot. The small fine wire that I broke off is at the opposite end of the worn though spot. I peeled back the plastic and unwound about an inch of wire so it can be resoldered back the black wire lug. I then cleaned and added a layer of Kapton tape over the whole thing.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5569a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5573a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5574a.jpg


I then made a new insulating washer from an old milk jug. This helps insulate the windings from each other.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5575a.jpg


I then cleaned and reassembled the yoke. I ohmed it out and sure enough the short was gone. I reinstalled everything and replaced the 5U4G tube. The old tube has little balls of metal rolling around. Fired it back up using my variac checking the current draw. All was fine and I now have my picture back. I'm letting it "burn" in for a while.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_5577a.jpg

Nice job.

Reminds me of the mid 90s Mitsubishi projection yokes (essentially B&W) that used to burn from the left horiz winding to the right. Once the yokes went out of production, it was either repair them or lose a repair job.

I used to separate the burned windings and isolate them. Covered with about 10 layers of cyanoacrylate, no more problems.

The good thing is that the burned/shorted area was external, right about where the neck and bell met, so I didn't have to disassemble the whole yoke like you had to.

Impressed.

John

the L2 filter choke started to sizzle and spit out wax. . . I remembered reading when Phil restored his 810 he had an almost identical situation. His yoke windings has shorted together. So I checked mine. Same thing.Yes, the burned-up filter choke and the shorted yoke -- fond memories! I was lucky enough to find replacement parts on eBay.

I also had to replace a cheap socket that failed by arcing between the pins. My 810 works well now, but I can't say I was very impressed with the overall build quality.

It's great that you were able to repair your yoke. It may outlast any of the originals out there.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

I fixed the yoke! I think it was shorting out on the inner tube windings.

Dude. You got more guts than a Army mule.:beerchug::D

Where is the fine wire coil that you repaired connected in the circuit? Is is in series with one of the other windings? I didn't see any separate coil shown in either the Rider or Sams schematic.

Nice work.

Once a yoke choke or transformer fails it can't be broken again till it's fixed so there's nothing to loose trying to fix it.... that approach has saved me hunting for unobtanium a few times.

Where is the fine wire coil that you repaired connected in the circuit? Is is in series with one of the other windings? I didn't see any separate coil shown in either the Rider or Sams schematic.

The coil is connected to the black wire on the yoke that goes to chassis ground. The coil only had the 1 end connected. The end near the worn through spot just ends. My guess is that the coil on the tube is some sort of a shield. But I really don't know.

The coil is not shown on any schematic because it is an integral part of the yoke assembly, again my guess.

... never mind.

The idea of a shield makes sense. However, I maintain that it should have been represented in the schematic in some fashion.

If anyone was going to fix it and make it better than new it would be you. Very nice work.

The coil is connected to the black wire on the yoke that goes to chassis ground. The coil only had the 1 end connected. The end near the worn through spot just ends. My guess is that the coil on the tube is some sort of a shield. But I really don't know.

The coil is not shown on any schematic because it is an integral part of the yoke assembly, again my guess.

Several years ago, I found a similar coil on a 3NP4 (projection tube) yoke and concluded that it was for shielding... this particular coil was grounded on both ends. :scratch2:

jr