I just got this TV off of CL for $15. This looks like it'll be my first TV. I haven't checked the 7JP4 CRT yet because my BK 467 doesn't list that tube. Anybody know how I can check it on my BK 467? I can make up and adapter using small alligator clips.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_2961a_zpsjx14ykwe.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_2961a_zpsjx14ykwe.jpg.html)

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Just wanted to say that was a great deal! It has tons of potential. The one negative with these are, I believe, the flyback transformers. They will run and then fade to dark. I had one, and even with a replacement part, still no luck, so I traded it. Hope you have luck with yours.

That is a great deal, the knobs for these are pretty hard to find though.

I don't think the B&K will test the CRT in any case, the only real way to test the 7JP4 is in a working set so you may have to get it working at least enough to see if it'll light.

Just wanted to say that was a great deal! It has tons of potential. The one negative with these are, I believe, the flyback transformers. They will run and then fade to dark. I had one, and even with a replacement part, still no luck, so I traded it. Hope you have luck with yours.

Thanks. Yeah, I've been reading the Forums on this TV and we'll see.

That is a great deal, the knobs for these are pretty hard to find though.

I don't think the B&K will test the CRT in any case, the only real way to test the 7JP4 is in a working set so you may have to get it working at least enough to see if it'll light.

I'll start the hunt for the knobs right away. I have friend who will test the CRT in a working TV.

I tested the tubes tonight. All tested in the green. 1 tube, a 7B5 had the glass envelope broken right at the base. 10 out of 17 tubes were Philco. The rest were GE, Raytheon, Hytron, National Union, and Westinghouse. Quite a selection that's for sure. Now I'll sit down and look over the Sams and get myself familiar with the chassis and do more web browsing on the Forums for other threads on this TV.

The underneath of the chassis looks like there are a caps replaced and that's it. Pretty much unmolested.

I have a friend who has a working TV that I can test the 7JP4 CRT. BTW, it is a Philco CRT. Anybody know how to get the metal sleeve off the neck of the CRT?

If you find the knobs and get it going if the high voltage gives you trouble I can send you a picture how I corrected the problem with a 7 inch Motorola Transformer and it works great.

If you find the knobs and get it going if the high voltage gives you trouble I can send you a picture how I corrected the problem with a 7 inch Motorola Transformer and it works great.


Could you send it now? Thanks.

Why can't electrostatic CRTs be tested on a CRT tester like any other? Don't those testers just test emission? Dead would mean dead. Good might not mean good.

I've tested the 7 inch CRT tubes on my Beltron and most test good. The biggest problem I have seen is a tube that tests good may still be dim. I would guess phosphor degradation from ion burn. My 8 inch has a spectacular picture with no burns but I rarely use it. I run the chassis with a seven inch.
No need to remove the metal from the neck of the tube. To test them I just put the tube in a working chassis. I use a TS-4 for a everyday driver and it has its original CRT and after a couple of minutes it is bright and clear.
Love that Philco!!

Greetings: I just am completing restoration of this model set and its a fun one! Its a little cramped underneath but if you take your time you'll get it restored. I really suggest that you do your filter capacitors one section at a time (resist the temptation to just cut the leads and do all the sections at one fell-swoop). Its easy to omit something or make a mistake. Thats what happened to my set when a friend of the previous owner I acquired it from went through the capacitors. He made a couple mistakes which prevented the set from working, but correcting those errors resulted in a nice picture. Also you probably should not overlook the mica capacitors especially in the vertical and horizontal sections; I am seeing more and more of them getting bad and you'll see it in poor linearity. Pay special attention to the mica 100pF / 500 volt cap in the vertical amplifier!

Good luck and have fun! This is a cool set!

-George-

Why can't electrostatic CRTs be tested on a CRT tester like any other? Don't those testers just test emission? Dead would mean dead. Good might not mean good.

Others have already answered this correctly. If you have a working set with a 7" electrostatic CRT, that is the answer... But we don't all have that advantage.

I have a Sencore CR-70 that would test them. But as mentioned, even if they test good, they could have ion burn and be dim.

Good luck, these are fun to have and use.

I just noticed this on the 7JP4 CRT! It was missing a pin. I looked in the CRT connector and there it was. It looks like the solder connection failed. The connector came off the CRT pretty easily when I took out the CRT.

I'm thinking of soldering the pin back in place then using a bit of JB Weld to glue it down. I'll also touch up all the other pins on the CRT with my soldering iron.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3064a_zpss8rtn59t.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3064a_zpss8rtn59t.jpg.html)

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Well, I brought the voltage up to 50 then 10 more after that to 105 volts. All the tubes glowed ( couldn't see the CRT) and I got some sound. After some fine tuning I'm picking up a local FM station pretty good. The set at 105 volts draws 1.1 amps. The big problem is there is no video, nada!

I'm open to suggestions as where to look. I don't know if I'm getting any high voltage. How and where do I check that. I do have a Polaris HV meter.

Nothing got hot or any bad smells at all. I want to keep the run time down till I can recap this set. I'm pretty pleased so far, except the video of course.

Here's a video of it:

https://youtu.be/mOeAVBsoZVQ

Guys,

The heater ohms out good on the CRT.

There is no HV. I used my Polaris 40KV probe and no HV. I ohmed out the coil and it checked very good to the schematic values. I cleaned the pins on the 1B3GT and its socket too. I didn't see any glow from the 1b3GT but I think it might be real hard to see.

C96 looks like it had wept a little, so I think I'm going to order and replace all the caps in the HV section along with the HV OSC section too. Probably get the resistors too, won't hurt.

Next thing to do is get the CRT checked out on a working set. I'll contact my friend about that.

1950 Philco 7" sets are notorious for faulty HV oscillator design. They tend to bloom and fade after about twenty minutes. Not only is there no known cure, one dedicated restorer going to the trouble of replicating the oscillator coil resulted in a brand new coil that does exactly the same thing. Don't shoot the messenger.

1950 Philco 7" sets are notorious for faulty HV oscillator design. They tend to bloom and fade after about twenty minutes.

Yep, I got one recapped and works well, for 15-20 minutes, then the high voltage fades until the pictures too dark to see. :sigh:

Well like any other vintage tv, recap the whole set including all the hv caps and then start from there because trying to run it with old caps is not a good idea should one decide to short and take out other components and make the job even harder in the long run.

Hi, There is a way to solve the HV issue in the Philco. You put in a solid state d.c. to d.c. converter. Now it is a bit pricey if buying new but look on the web to find used converters. Check out this site to see how 1 collector did this, http://www.myvintagetv.com/philco_hv.htm .All the best Tom

I have a spare one of those modules if you want it for 40.00 they also work great.

Yeah, I'm going to recap and recarb the HV section first, then the E-caps, then the rest. At least all the HV resistors too. First I have to see if the CRT is good or not.

Thanks for all the comments, I appreciate them.

:pity::pity:1950 Philco 7" sets are notorious for faulty HV oscillator design. They tend to bloom and fade after about twenty minutes. Not only is there no known cure, one dedicated restorer going to the trouble of replicating the oscillator coil resulted in a brand new coil that does exactly the same thing. Don't shoot the messenger.
I had okayed my repairman to order one of those replacements (many years ago now) which wasn't cheap, and was so disappointed when I got a call that it didn't work. I believe I was able to return it. My Philco was in real nice shape and I hated to part with it, but having a non-working set in the collection doesn't cut it with me. Glad to hear there's been ways worked-out to fix the problem now. Now if I only still had that set!

I have said for YEARS..the best thing to to NOW..is to hide a small SS HV module somewhere in the cage (or under the chassis). They have some that will run fine at 6V. You just need to rectify and filter that for the module. One with say 5-7KV output should work fine for the HV.

Some questions on capacitors and what to order.

I have no problem with what to order for electrolytics.

For the "Bumble Bee" and tubular caps I should order the typical axial lead yellow film caps.

Then there are some caps that have the domino look and I think they are mica caps. There are only 5 of these in the TV. They range from 100pf to 10000pf (.01uf). I'm pretty sure some are mica but I think some might be paper caps.

Then there are some that look like little "hot dogs". These are all listed as mmf or pf in the parts list. There are 31 of them. If I need to replace them, what would I use? They range from 2.2pf to 1500pf.

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I'm including some pictures of them.
The schematic is listed in reply #14

Verticle and horizontal Micas would not hurt to change but I would wait on those caps until you get the hv up to see if the crt is bright, don't forget you are dealing with a troublesome 7jp4 crt unless tested on a working set to know for sure. And besides those Micas may be fine as you will see how good they are when you get it up and running.

I wouldn't change anything in the pf range unless there turns out to be a reason to do so.
The Hot Dogs are probably Ceramic, the Dominos Mica. The square caps of .001 or larger may be paper.

Anything pf or mmf is almost certainly Mica or Ceramic and probably in the i.f. strip where it will mess up the alignment if you replace them.

.01 is not a mica, those hot dog shaped and the others that look like a barrel with colors Are ceramic as well in your picks are usually good, do yourself a favor leave those caps alone even if the crt is good . You should recap the power supply first get it running then look for the hv if none then look for caps and or resistors that are related to hv, rectifier tube as well check or replace. If you have the schematic for that set then it will show what the domino looking caps are once you locate then on the set it will show mmf for the Micas .

If a specific set seems to bloom with the loss of hv then I'm sure when they were new they didn't have that problem, maybe because a cap that was not sized right for the hv section back in the day maybe failed after maybe 2 years and then after 50 years for sure it probably won't work so then why not find the problem or design defect and then that would be the end of that. Being both you guys seem to have the same problem and does look like a mistake was made in the design.

It's interesting that the drop off in High voltage does not seem to be entirely universal. Obviously there is a design flaw but also not every set produced displays the same result. My 50t-702 comes up nice and bright and yes, after 20-30 minutes I have to adjust the brightness. But after adjustment by it always is watchable and there is no discernible bloom. I've run mine between 90 minutes and two hours and never got so dark I'd have to shut it off! Interesting...

George

If a specific set seems to bloom with the loss of hv ... Being both you guys seem to have the same problem and does look like a mistake was made in the design.

Maybe they didn't want to pay for a patent license to use a better design? Or just idiot managers telling the engineers to stop worrying and ship it? :thumbsdn:

Could be a manufacturing issue with the coils since some set fall flat and others only stumble a tad...

I'd make my own DC-DC converter, in your shoes. You just need a simple 555 osc. chip (and some R's and C's for it), a power FET, and a flyback from a junk BPC set. I built a 30KV plasma speaker that way with cheap parts and junk, and I'm sure I could de-tune it to produce 4-7KV.

I'm getting to know the chassis. I'm studying the schematics and parts layout. What I like to do is to mark each component with a little piece of masking tape the Item number from the parts list. I did all the Bumble Bee, paper, and square mica caps, the high voltage circuit resistors, the high wattage resistors, and high value resistors for now.

I enter the resistor and capacitor parts lists into Excel. Then I can sort them and it helps me come up with a replacement parts list that I need to order.

While doing that I came across a connection that wasn't soldered! The lead from the resistor just pulled up from the pin on the tube socket. While there was ample solder on the tube pin, the resistor was missed in that it never got a good solder joint.

I think I have a later run for this chassis. My Sams 140-7 shows the components, but I have more terminal strips and slightly different locations for some of the components. So far I've found all the components that I've been looking for. Yes, some of those pesky 1/2W carbon comp resistors can hide very well, very well indeed. Some of the paper caps shown in the Sams are Bumble Bee caps in mine.

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Maybe they didn't want to pay for a patent license to use a better design? Or just idiot managers telling the engineers to stop worrying and ship it? :thumbsdn:
Yes anything is possible and maybe even the lack of enough b+ due to design although when new components were new but now so many decades later where all the components are tired and given Alittle more b+ things may be different since if these sets share these hv problems I'm sure everything has since been checked out and ok. Even resistors and coils that have resistance that is higher after so many years then that's ok if the set works but after a certain amount of time things happen, heating, but if this was multiplied several times over the whole chassis, who knows. Ah just thinking out of the box. :scratch2: :smoke:

After spending some time looking over this chassis I think everything is original. Nothing has been changed except for a few tubes. The picture tube is a Philco too.

Did you get the 7jp4 tested on another set yet ?

Did you get the 7jp4 tested on another set yet ?

I contacted my friend and we'll get together next week and check it out. I think he mentioned he does have a replacement, though I can't recall directly. Untill then I'm just doing some homework and putzing. Won't order anything till after that.

Hey, just a shout out, I'm looking for the Philco Service manual for this TV. It's a Philco 50-T702.

The ETF website has the Sams for it. Here is a link to the page that includes the Philco sets Sams you can download:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_schematic_diagrams_n-o-p.html#philco

Dave

The ETF website has the Sams for it. Here is a link to the page that includes the Philco sets Sams you can download:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_schematic_diagrams_n-o-p.html#philco

Dave
Dave,
Thanks for the info. I already DL that Sams.

I'm looking for the Philco Service Manual by Philco.

After spending some time looking over this chassis I think everything is original. Nothing has been changed except for a few tubes. The picture tube is a Philco too.

I'm going to get the CRT tested tomorrow with a working set. A full report when I get back!

If all goes well, then I'll order the parts that I need.

The CRT 7JP4 tested good to very good! We could easily see the picture with the lights on.

I still have to figure out a way to get the metal sleeve off the neck so I can re-glue the base. It has just a little movement to it.

I'll order up the resistors and capacitors and will press on with the restoration.

Anybody go knobs for this TV?

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3033a_zpsjtscifa5.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3033a_zpsjtscifa5.jpg.html)

I see JustRadios has the .0047uf 6Kv caps. Are there any other suppliers?

Thanks.

Allied has a selection of 6000 & 8000 volt ASC capacitors.


http://www.alliedelec.com/passive-components/capacitors/?navigation=4294957281-4294965387

I found a source for the HV capacitors.

I have most of the resistors and some of the film caps so I decided to replace what I could till the rest of my orders come in.

One of the first things I did was to clean up the mess that had happened from Philco's famous black tar/wax that had melted down to underneath the chassis. While I was at it I removed the phenolic pot board to aid cleaning up the mess and to clean up the pots. After several hours the mess was cleaned up and the pots were cleaned and fully checked for smooth operation with no bad spots. I then installed everything like before.

I then replaced some caps and resistors along the terminal strip behind the rear pots. I'll replace what I can with what I have for the time being.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3110a_zpsrcohehy4.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3110a_zpsrcohehy4.jpg.html)

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I just got a used interlock power cord. It is serviceable, but a little stiff. Is there any way to "rejuvenate" the vinyl or plastic coating to make it a bit more pliable?

I just got a used interlock power cord. It is serviceable, but a little stiff. Is there any way to "rejuvenate" the vinyl or plastic coating to make it a bit more pliable?

If you need to get the cord's ears over the rivets, soak it in boiling water.

If you need to get the cord's ears over the rivets, soak it in boiling water.

Great idea! Anything to make the rest of the cord more pliable?

I started pulling the cans from the chassis to prep them for re-stuffing. My E-Caps will be in on Thursday. It'll take me a few days to re-stuff them and get them back into the chassis. By then the HV caps will be in and I'll turn my attention to the HV section.

The rest of my orders came in so I'm tackling the filter E-Caps and the high voltage sections which consist of the HV cage and the HV board underneath the chassis.

I first did the HV Cage then followed by the HV board. I still have to install the HV board. I'll install the HV cage just before I power it up. With it off it makes working on the chassis a lot easier.

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I replaced the the 6 HV caps and resistors in the HV cage and the HV board. I also replaced the filter E-Caps in the power supply.

I have a raster! All of the picture controls does affect the picture to a degree. My HV is about 3500v but my B+ is only about 228V when it should be 310V. I'm guessing that as I replace more of the E-Caps and paper caps the B+ voltage should come up and with that my HV should be up too.

I was playing a VHS tape through my tape player. I also noticed I didn't get any sound.

Anyway we have a good start! I also shot a very short video of the picture.

https://youtu.be/6LiHqtkO7PM

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Looking good! Constant progress and that is a good thing. Congratulations.

Does this set have seleniums, if so there could be one going bad as I had low b++ in one of my 7 inch sets because of a bad selenium rectifier. I replaced the 2 with 1n4007 diodes and cured the voltage problem. I had noticed one selenium was much hotter then the other so befor it shorted and and smelled up my house I changed them. Could be power supply caps too but I see your going over the whole chassis so I'm sure you will find the culprit. Does that set have an adjustable ring on the hv rectifier tube, if it has one that will affect the hv output.

Does this set have seleniums, if so there could be one going bad as I had low b++ in one of my 7 inch sets because of a bad selenium rectifier. I replaced the 2 with 1n4007 diodes and cured the voltage problem. I had noticed one selenium was much hotter then the other so befor it shorted and and smelled up my house I changed them. Could be power supply caps too but I see your going over the whole chassis so I'm sure you will find the culprit. Does that set have an adjustable ring on the hv rectifier tube, if it has one that will affect the hv output.

Tim, this one has seleniums and I actually mentioned this to him in a post on another forum. I know he was intending to swap them out with diodes but don't know if he did yet. Personally, when I see seleniums soldered in place I get like the Lost In Space robot: "danger danger, Will Robinson!!"

This won't be difficult to scope out. Only real potential problem would be if a deflection plate in the CRT was bent or damaged and I think that's highly unlikely. Gotta be a vintage or capacitance issue, both easily remedied.

I'm happy he's got HV. This'll come together nicely with relatively short effort.

George

I run seleniums in my restored sets (radios more so than TVs). If B+ is good after a FULL recap, the seleniums run cool, the set has not been exposed to a corrosive/outdoor environment, and it is not a set I plan to use heavily then I just leave the seleniums in. Not all of them are ticking time bombs...

I replaced a bunch of caps and resistors today. I have an image now but it is very wavy. More caps tomorrow and I'll look at the selenium's too. BTW the B+ voltage rose from 228V to 251V. At least it's in the right direction.


https://youtu.be/kSXk_JTiJQQ

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3256a_zpscx3crkkk.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3256a_zpscx3crkkk.jpg.html)

This reminds me that I need a TV pattern genterator or one of those DVD's/videos. I have a vhs and a DVD player. Do I DL a test pattern the make a DVD, then have hte DVD palyer paly into the VHS player which "talks" to the tv?

Thats improvement Crist, when you complete the caps definitely do the two selenium rectifiers. At the absolute least you'll know that you will have full voltage coming forward from the rectifiers and they are going to be stable and safe. Then address video & sweep issues as they may appear!

-George-

George,
Right!

I finished replacing the paper caps. All the E-Caps have been replaced. When a resistor and capacitor share the same point, the resistor got changed too.

B+ is still too low. Selenium's are next to get replaced.

Getting closer.

https://youtu.be/CzThLSIsM9Q

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3292a_zpsh9fol0kl.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3292a_zpsh9fol0kl.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3297a_zpsdbojhtgt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3297a_zpsdbojhtgt.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3299a_zps9ay8diai.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3299a_zps9ay8diai.jpg.html)

Well Damn! Thats looking pretty nice! Your vertical height is excessive but the nice part is that can be corrected by adjusting the vertical height pot on the back!!!!!!! :-)

Damn good work Crist! And that picture is looking pretty nice and sharp, and with good greyscale too!

-George-

BTW: I betcha you'll be amazed when you get full B+ on a nice new set of diodes!!!!!

-George-

BTW: I betcha you'll be amazed when you get full B+ on a nice new set of diodes!!!!!

-George-
I replaced the selenium's tonight per your instructions. Work great except I need to go down to 20 Ohms to get 308 volts. Sams list the B+ at 310 volts. Still more issues and I'll keep replacing more resistors tomorrow.

I am keep a tally on each resistor as to what it checked when removed. There were quite a few that were out of tolerance, some were almost spot on, and several were low.

The picture tube isn't as bright as I though it should be. Can't see it with the lights on.

As for the B+ if 20 ohms does the trick then just go with it. As for brightness, have you replaced all the caps associated with the HV? Don't miss anything. And also make sure the tubes in there are up to snuff!

George

All paper caps both LV and HV have been replaced along with all the resistors, and all the e-caps too. The only thing done to the tuner was to clean the wafer switches.

Here is a very short video of my biggest problem right now. The picture goes negative when I turn up the brightness. I substituted the miniature tubes along with the 6V6 HV Osc. tube. I don't have 1B3GT tube or any of the Loctals. A club member thinks its the CRT and to prevent it it needs a brightener. BTW my HV is still low at about 4Kv instead of 5Kv.

Any ideas of what to do?

https://youtu.be/pz6hSvGtM10

Going negative at a higher brightness setting is a classic symptom of a bad 7JP4, I've seen a lot of them like this.

If the HV was affecting it the picture would bloom and go out of focus, it looks fine other than being dim.

You said you plugged this tube into another set and it was bright? Did you actually display a picture on it or just plug it in and light it up?
I've noticed that simply lighting one up can be deceptive, it may appear okay but won't work well when an image is displayed.

Going negative at a higher brightness setting is a classic symptom of a bad 7JP4, I've seen a lot of them like this.

If the HV was affecting it the picture would bloom and go out of focus, it looks fine other than being dim.

Well, that's not good news! I'll try the tube in my friends set again and see what happens.

I hooked up the heater wires to my BK 467 CRT tester so I could vary the heater voltage. I varied the voltage from 6.3 to 7.5vac and saw very little changed to the "negative" effect. The CRT did get just barely a very little bit brighter. I did not want to go any higher on the heater voltage seeing it seemed to make little difference.

Listen to TV Dude with his HV fix. I have repaired several of the 7 inch Philcos using a Motorola 7 inch HV transformer. Works great. I also have a SS tiny module that will make 7KV, allowing you to eliminate that troublesome Philco HV transformer

Are you saying that the Philco HV transformer is my problem?

Greetings: I just am completing restoration of this model set and its a fun one! Its a little cramped underneath but if you take your time you'll get it restored. I really suggest that you do your filter capacitors one section at a time (resist the temptation to just cut the leads and do all the sections at one fell-swoop). Its easy to omit something or make a mistake. Thats what happened to my set when a friend of the previous owner I acquired it from went through the capacitors. He made a couple mistakes which prevented the set from working, but correcting those errors resulted in a nice picture. Also you probably should not overlook the mica capacitors especially in the vertical and horizontal sections; I am seeing more and more of them getting bad and you'll see it in poor linearity. Pay special attention to the mica 100pF / 500 volt cap in the vertical amplifier!

Good luck and have fun! This is a cool set!

-George-

Hi George, hey it's been a long time since I've seen you. Good to 'see' you here!

-- Dave Sica

I'm getting started on the cabinet and I have a question. I pulled the safety glass and the mask and the mask color looks like a very pale avocado green. If anybody else has a 50-T702 can you confirm what color your mask is?

Thanks.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3374a_zpsl5scnq5t.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3374a_zpsl5scnq5t.jpg.html)

Mine is more pale than that... but could have faded over time. It is greener than the 7JP4.

jr

jr-tech,
Is your TV a 50-T702? It doesn't look like it though. I thought the mask was going to be more of an antique white color. I was surprised to see it have a green tint to it.

Sorry, mine is a 701, may or may not be different.:scratch2:

jr

Sorry, mine is a 701, may or may not be different.:scratch2:

jr

OK. I appreciate your input.

Hi George, hey it's been a long time since I've seen you. Good to 'see' you here!

-- Dave Sica

Hey Dave! Yeah been messing around with television again. You going to Kutztown meet in May?? I'll be there with a few sets on the table :-)

George

We had the chance to check the CRT in another chassis today. Looks like mine isn't so good. My friend's tube worked and looked really great! At least I know my chassis is good. I'm pressing on now with the cosmetic part of the restoration. I'll keep an eye out for another better CRT.

Just an update on cleaning up the chassis. Still more to do.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3460a_zpstrey10oo.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3460a_zpstrey10oo.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3466a_zps91zs8ylu.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/crigotti/media/Philco%2050-T702%20TV/100_3466a_zps91zs8ylu.jpg.html)

Here is a short video of the restored chassis.

I just taped the mask into place on the CRT. I'm playing it now for an hour or so. I want to see if I get the HV fade. BTW, the video is "White Christmas".

https://youtu.be/TwwV8PGGjtc

TVDUDE1 Please check your PM, email, and phone messages. I need to talk to you about your offer.

Thank you.

Will call you today

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but did you indeed solve the Philco HV problem? Mine is close to working ok except for vertical linearity (possibly related to the low and quickly dropping HV).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35772258302_254ed364a3_z_d.jpg

jr

I replaced the HV coil with a solid state device. Works very well.