Anyone by chance know the difference or if a 25VCDP22 can be replaced by a 25VCXP22. I know the TV that uses the 25VCDP22 is a 25K volt chassis and the 25VCXP22 comes from a 30K chassis they are both delta guns and they both have the mounting tabs.

The tube out of the higher voltage chassis should work fine in the lower voltage chassis.

I agree. Most jugs are electrical the same. Physicly
there can be tons of differences. Some important
some dont matter.

73 Zeno:smoke:

all 25v delta guns will electronically work and show a picture.we were crt specialists back in the 60s to 80s.hundreds of swaps were done and notes taken.the conclusion was that all will work as far as the electronics go.they will show a picture but there may be certain flaws.

Thanks guys for your feedback on this, thats what I was thinking to. I wish I could see the data sheets on these to see what the difference is cause my 1980 Howard W. Sams tube substitution book shows both tubes but does not show them as interchangeable. I really do not see what the difference is between them. These are both tubes used in Magnavox TV's one from 1971 and the 25VCXP22 used in the late 70's.

all 25v delta guns will electronically work and show a picture.we were crt specialists back in the 60s to 80s.hundreds of swaps were done and notes taken.the conclusion was that all will work as far as the electronics go.they will show a picture but there may be certain flaws.

Thats what I am concerned about.

What is the EIA code on the CRT tag ? Its a 3
digit number that shows who really made the jugs.
Example is 274 =RCA 343= Zenith 312=Sylvania. ETC.....

73 Zeno:smoke:

Thanks guys for your feedback on this, thats what I was thinking to. I wish I could see the data sheets on these to see what the difference is cause my 1980 Howard W. Sams tube substitution book shows both tubes but does not show them as interchangeable. I really do not see what the difference is between them. These are both tubes used in Magnavox TV's one from 1971 and the 25VCXP22 used in the late 70's.

If they are both in the book, check to see if there is a tube that they both sub to. If that is the case the worst you'll have to deal with is mounting hardware differences.

I don't think a HV rating of 30Kv or so is that common. My 1976 Electrohome is rated at 31Kv and has a somewhat tired 25VCXP22. I'm wondering if subbing in a CRT from a 25Kv set would shorten the sub's life span, or if the opposite would result in a dim picture.

Should be no problem.... HV is not the only factor in a bright watchable picture....
Especially looking at that small difference in voltage you are talking about....


.

I can't tell you how many CRT's that I've swapped in TV's during my time of working on them during the '90's and 2000's. The number didn't mean squat to me. If the tube was electrically the same as the old tube and could be mounted in the set without too much added difficulty, I'd drop it in there and not look back. In many cases, pulling a used tube out of a junker set was the only way I could save, and make money off of, a TV that would have otherwise gone to the dump.

Not a CRT engineer but the big difference is probably how
much lead is in the glass for X-ray protection.
I wasnt shooting blanks after 20 yrs of basicaly having a TV
in my lap torn down & many more close by, 6 days a week.
. Cant say at age 61 & I dont intend on finding out ! Other possable
things are inside & outside dag.
So use caution on going down on HV rating........

73 Zeno :smoke:

I don't think a HV rating of 30Kv or so is that common. My 1976 Electrohome is rated at 31Kv and has a somewhat tired 25VCXP22. I'm wondering if subbing in a CRT from a 25Kv set would shorten the sub's life span, or if the opposite would result in a dim picture.

We started doing that too. Nice thing is after they got rid of the DGS
shield tube swaps became easier than many repairs. Just risk
a few wire ties & 10 mn time at most. If its good to go another 5 mn
set-up time. Wow did we get spoiled in the solid state years !

73 Zeno:smoke:

I can't tell you how many CRT's that I've swapped in TV's during my time of working on them during the '90's and 2000's. The number didn't mean squat to me. If the tube was electrically the same as the old tube and could be mounted in the set without too much added difficulty, I'd drop it in there and not look back. In many cases, pulling a used tube out of a junker set was the only way I could save, and make money off of, a TV that would have otherwise gone to the dump.

the etf has a couple of those universal 90 degree crts for sale.i installed one in my e45 sylvania.it came out fantastic!best money i ve ever spent.

What is the EIA code on the CRT tag ? Its a 3
digit number that shows who really made the jugs.
Example is 274 =RCA 343= Zenith 312=Sylvania. ETC.....

73 Zeno:smoke:


The 25VCDP22 is 337 which I think is Westinghouse and the 25VCXP22 is 312 winch is Sylvania.

If they are both in the book, check to see if there is a tube that they both sub to. If that is the case the worst you'll have to deal with is mounting hardware differences.

That was a good call, they both sub for a 25VBEP22 so that makes me feel a little better to.

This is the tube in my 1971 Magnavox. I am curious if it is the original since it has the label that says all new picture tube. Could this be a warenty replacement tube maybe? Anyone know how the date code works on Magnavox tubes? This tube is not bad I was just thinking of having the 25vcx tube as an extra for this set.

A Magnavox guy once told me that the serial number of the original tube will match the serial number of the TV.

The 25VCX is a high lead glass rated to operate at 30kv, it is a negative guard band black matrix phosphor screen.

The 25VCD is for 25 kv operation and does not contain higher lead glass. It has a standard aluminized phosphor screen with no black matrix.