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I usually make it a point to never stop and grab televisions out of the trash unless they're really good looking Sony sets or are really old like this.

Sets of this era are getting rare in trash piles so I grabbed it off the side of the road.

Can anyone tell me anything about it? It has a phone cable which is pretty weird. It also doesn't work. It does turn on and make noise. Just a buzzing from the speaker and no raster. Is it worth fixing and seeing if it can be made to work again? it seems fairly interesting.

This looks like a higher end System 3 set from about 1980-'81 and will likely use a 9-160 power supply/horizontal sweep module. It's also this module that's most likely the problem. Usually, when they do what this set is doing, it's due to bad solder connections on this module.

This looks like a higher end System 3 set from about 1980-'81 and will likely use a 9-160 power supply/horizontal sweep module. It's also this module that's most likely the problem. Usually, when they do what this set is doing, it's due to bad solder connections on this module.

I suppose the next question is: Is it worth my time to crack open and resolder the inside of that part you mentioned? The set is not in terrible shape. A little dirty at best.

I'm not even sure where to look inside at what to repair. I'm a Sony guy. Zenith is new to me. Never serviced one.

I owned one. Probably an SM1971P. Top of line 19" at the time.
System 3 with 9-160 hv/power supply board. Also has an
early comb filter & gives an outstanding pix. Its also a
clock TV that can be set to turn on & off. And its full RAT cable
ready with add/skip. The cats ass in 1981:thmbsp:
With phone plugged in the TV will ring. Press a button & the
set mutes & you talk & listen to TV. You can also make calls
on the TV using the remote. The OSD shows the phone ##.
Very expensive new so not a lot sold. This is a keeper IMHO.
In any case dont scrap it !
When you get it open we will help with it, there are hidden tricks to getting the board out.
BTW for the phone you NEED the right remote. All other functions
work with any Zenith IR remote.

73 Zeno:smoke:

I owned one. Probably an SM1971P. Top of line 19" at the time.
System 3 with 9-160 hv/power supply board. Also has an
early comb filter & gives an outstanding pix. Its also a
clock TV that can be set to turn on & off. And its full RAT cable
ready with add/skip. The cats ass in 1981:thmbsp:
With phone plugged in the TV will ring. Press a button & the
set mutes & you talk & listen to TV. You can also make calls
on the TV using the remote. The OSD shows the phone ##.
Very expensive new so not a lot sold. This is a keeper IMHO.
In any case dont scrap it !
When you get it open we will help with it, there are hidden tricks to getting the board out.
BTW for the phone you NEED the right remote. All other functions
work with any Zenith IR remote.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Well I am certainly interested in bringing it back to life! It's a little beat up but I think it would clean up with a little work. It would be interesting to make it work.

So what do I have to do, to remove this 9-160 power supply I keep hearing about, and what on it would I need to replace on said board to bring it back to life.

Sweet set!

One of THE best Zenith sets. I have one in my bedroom as a matter of fact.
Zeno is correct. Our shop sold them new, and the were expensive. You could buy a no frills Zenith console without remote for the same price. I'm attaching pix. On the first pix, original remote on the left, and the replacement remote on the right (124-79-01)
I would probably try to find an original remote tho. It uses a 9 volt battery, the replacement uses a J battery which is hard to find now.

Yep a fantastic set I have 2 floor models with the space phone. I wish I had kept the last one I left in storage when I moved from Atlanta 18 years ago. A lot of people did not like the 9-160 board, but I knew how to repair them there not hard to work on. It was a money maker.

Arcanine.... you should find it pretty easy to work on. There is a "trick" to get the board out. I went to a seminar that Zenith had when the "System 3" came out. Basically that name came from their design, on having the entire set chassis on 3 boards, and the picture tube being the EFL Tri Focus design. They were designed to be the easiest to service, but the connector tabs can be a pain in the ass. Hence System 3. I'll look in my stash and see if I still have a 9-160 board.

I never knew they put space phone into the smaller sets. In your shoes I'd fix it and keep it. If you ever decide it needs to go I'd probably be willing to give it a home.

I never knew they put space phone into the smaller sets. In your shoes I'd fix it and keep it. If you ever decide it needs to go I'd probably be willing to give it a home.

Yeah. If I ended up doing nothing with it you can come and get it.

9-160 removal. Hope I remember everything ! Been years.
If the board has been out some things MAY have been
left out. Uses all 1/4 inch bolts.

Unplug set.
Put a clip lead on the CRT shield the other end to a thin
well insulated screwdriver. Put under HV lead & move around.
Remove HV lead.
Either a plastic or metal bracket goes from flyback to frame, remove.
Along the bottom is a plastic holder held with 1 bolt remove.
On top of board near 2 connectors is the key. Its red & sometimes
wrapped in tap Twist it 90 degrees & pull it out.
Rear edge connectors may have little black steaks. Remove & dispose.
Unsnap all edge connectors.
IIRC there are 4 to 5 top connectors, unplug.
Undo focus wires from FBT to CRT socket board. Its a flying connection.
Unplug ground wires from CRT shield & one from spark gap at
rear edge of board usually.
On either side of the PCB there are claws holding it in. Push
down on them & work the board out.
Be careful of the edge connectors you can smash them easily.

Sounds like a lot but after a few times you can R&R it in
less than 2mn. You CAN NOT put it back wrong, its got keys on
everything.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Even if it doesn't have the connector installed, this is a good sign.
That means it was designed with a cold (isolated, floating) ground for the signal sections.
If you wanted to interface external equipment or modify it for external video input, you would need an isolated ground.
An easy way to check for this is to meter from the IF shield to earth ground. It should be zero or very low.

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