I've decided to tackle the Westy 196 I picked up a few years ago (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=254990).

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8001/7613178962_7a591e3998_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/cAKwSf)

I've since assembled a full set of knobs with some shown in this photo. They are the later plastic version rather than the metal, but they'll do.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8003/7707141986_8379b0c531_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/cK47No)

The cabinet is rough and the back is missing, but the chassis appears complete and untouched.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7112/7587761422_7f8a15202b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/cyvg7N) https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8646/16477316830_6cdf7c53a7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r73yeu) https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8603/16663333821_e372fffe93_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rotWAZ) https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8564/16477319140_7391bee13f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r73yVj)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8025/7587760642_11b7c75a19_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/cyvfTm)



CRT is dirty, but good :)
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7115/7587762254_30131c61f1_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/cyvgn9)

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7786/17527815392_fa3e1fbc97_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sGSCRE)

Here's a closer look at the chassis up on the workbench. That long shaft is for the contrast control.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5465/17481003386_28bbb28dd8_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sCJHh7)

Here's a few topside shots from different angles.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7702/16887078013_c30358f912_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rJfFXt) https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8877/17481003846_fb07f8624b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sCJHq3) https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7675/17319759830_a5f6f50264_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/souibN) https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8871/17505202062_fd6ee841b8_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sESJGE)

After cleaning around the AC interlock, clipping out the AC line filter caps and pulling the rectifier tubes, I power it up. All the tubes lit and the unloaded secondary voltage is around 670 volts :thmbsp:

First up, I'm doing some cleaning and rust removal. Then, I'll dive into recapping.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7679/17503666486_567b3c760c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sEJSed)

Sunbury, PA - also home to moyers.....:scratch2:

I've got one of those awaiting restoration, the cabinet is really nice though.

I don't know if you noticed but that strip along the bottom front pulls off so you can reach the adjustments, I think I learned that by seeing one on eBay that was missing that strip.

670 volts! If the filters didn't blow with that much on them they may just be okay!

I've got one of those awaiting restoration, the cabinet is really nice though.

I don't know if you noticed but that strip along the bottom front pulls off so you can reach the adjustments, I think I learned that by seeing one on eBay that was missing that strip.

670 volts! If the filters didn't blow with that much on them they may just be okay!

I think I learned about the control strip the same way :)

Oh that's across the whole secondary. Only half that from the center tap. Weird power supply with a 5V4 for the B+ and a 5U4 for the B-.

They were really going out of their way to use as many miniature tubes as possible during a time when no small percentage of other sets had octal tubes in majority.

Looking forward to seeing the video series on this one.

That chassis reminds me of the Admirals I've seen you restore. Best of luck with this one.

I discovered the HV stuff comes out easily on it's own subchassis. Much easier to work on. The flyback looks like the same FLY-1 type used by Admiral, RCA, etc.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7765/17642695530_80f124b172_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sT2qHG) https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7690/17830742981_fd0c240d9a_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/taDdF8)

It tests good but the wax coating is in crummy condition. S I took it apart and recoated. I've done it before and it's fairly easier to take apart and reassemble.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7703/17827471642_a5973e51ca_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tamsdJ) https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7793/17642808360_cdab141fbc_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sT31g3)

I used some microcrystalline wax that is harder and has a high melting tempo than beeswax.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7729/17804048896_7db73b1d6e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t8hpsh) https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5445/17642813920_4a423fc10b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sT32UU)

Found a charred 4.7K power resistor that measure about 2 K. I'm using little reddish 2W Vishay metal film resistors. I think they are less jarring than the bright blue types.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7743/17827574372_f80f61579f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tamYKW) https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8893/17642582428_4f341a3310_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sT1R6E)

I've been finding a lot of discrepancies between my set and the service info. Sams seems to be for a later version and Riders is the early. Not sure where mine falls. It has some of the later production changes but not all.

Most confusing so far is the AGC. Schematic shows two AGC busses - one for the IF and one for the tuner. Mine is missing the two components circled on the right and the tuner ties into the IF AGC bus.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5453/17764814648_c99a3e753b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t4PjtJ)

I investigated further by popping the cover off the tuner and found the components inside connected to that AGC bus slightly different. In particular R129 is 10K rather than 22K.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7719/17948977289_cb607c37e2_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tm6cBF)


It also uses a 6AG5 rather than the 6BH6 n the Sarkes Tarzian tuner.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5459/17764826258_6022719c8f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t4PnVU)

The tube chart notes this change too.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8157/7587759722_19f7c8058e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/cyvfBu)

I'm finding more and more components that had one end clipped and soldered back in. I get the feeling someone did a lot of troubleshooting.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8851/17764816698_a963c411d1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t4Pk65)

Watched your videos on this set last night Bob. Great stuff. Leaned a ton watching you take apart the flyback for inspection and cleaning. GOOD STUFF!!!

Thanks! Glad you are enjoying it.

I hit a little snag yesterday with the last of the can caps I've been restuffing.
The schematic shows it as polarized (C105 & C106), but the actual cap is non-polarized. Had to place another parts order.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8769/17738007433_be30dd0356_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t2rVCn)

I have a Westinghouse Telaide that shows two chassis shematics; H196 and H196 DX
Yours may be the latter as it shows a 6AG5 for RF amp.

Both schematics show a polarized 1000mf across V.cent and polarized 500mf V.cent tap to B+.

I thought I was the only one that was extremely anal about checking multiple literature and spending hours on trying to verify part locations and specs before working on a set. :D

Glad to know that I am not the only one! I think I spend more time on investigating chassis run changes and old repairs than I do on the actual restore work. :thmbsp:

I have a Westinghouse Telaide that shows two chassis shematics; H196 and H196 DX
Yours may be the latter as it shows a 6AG5 for RF amp.

Both schematics show a polarized 1000mf across V.cent and polarized 500mf V.cent tap to B+.

Good catch. The H196-A (DX) is also covered in Sams 84-13. Anyone have a scanned copy ?

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/176587/5497aa0fd25c0_176587b.jpg

I got my hands on the Sams for the DX version and everything matches my set :D Now I get to undo a few changes I made and get back on track :yes:

Recapping is complete and I'm moving on to final checks and testing the tubes.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/380/17921810193_9434c2b1ac_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tiFXMt)

Perhaps I should put these bugle boys on ebay rather than back in the set :scratch2:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8850/18354713058_7a84f4b5ef_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tXWGHY)

The 5U4 was burned out. I'm guessing from a filter cap shorting out. A couple of the 6AQ5s and a 6AL5 were dead too. Replaced them and finally ready for a power up!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/383/18547194105_37f8a99aff_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ufXdCH)

Well I got a nice raster, but no video or sound. Just a faint crackle out of the speaker. I'm thinking something is wrong in the tuner or first IF since the sound is picked off after that stage.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/429/18359411788_9ea613666b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tYmMuy)

I poked around the tuner and found what appear to be a damaged component. Luckily it's easy to unmount. While undoing the connections I noticed they were a little sloppy which makes me think it had been removed before.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/523/18550901001_b149a9b153_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ughdyH)

Sure enough, there's a damaged 0.47 pF RF coupling cap. Not sure of the material but I'm guessing ceramic.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8832/18550916221_8b41257f88_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ughi68)

I seems the only modern replacement option is surface mount ceramic :sigh:
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/_/N-5g7rZscv7?P=1z0vqin

I poked around the tuner and found what appear to be a damaged component. Luckily it's easy to unmount. While undoing the connections I noticed they were a little sloppy which makes me think it had been removed before.

Sure enough, there's a damaged 0.47 pF RF coupling cap. Not sure of the material but I'm guessing ceramic.

I seems the only modern replacement option is surface mount ceramic :sigh:
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/_/N-5g7rZscv7?P=1z0vqin

Looks more like it has been ground away (to change the capacitance), maybe been that way from manufacturing since don't look like the connections were disturbed and the metal around it is not damaged.

Just thinking ?

rrrhre2s

Perhaps, although it's used to couple RF so I wouldn't think it's value would be that critical.

I dug out my B&K 1077B and fed a signal right at the tuner output and got a stable image :)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/427/17961168813_ff6b5f2ff1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tnaFJn)

Didn't last long though because a new issue has cropped up. The horizontal oscillator stops running after a few seconds and the screen resistors starts to cook. The original resistor was charred so I suspect I still had a bad component lurking somewhere.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8856/18395643759_4a0d036e2d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/u2ytZH)

It seems this set is finicky about 6BG6s. After swapping four I found one it was happy with and no more raster loss.

Adjusting the controls resulted in a more stable image too. Still bypassing the tuner though.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/523/18400971698_390eb12644_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/u32MNJ)

I then moved on to troubleshooting the lack of sound. Feed an audio signal into the volume pot and got nice clear sound out of the speaker. Tried doing an alignment next and got nothing coming through. Eventually tracked it down to a dirty 2nd IF tube socket :music:

Now back to the tuner. 2pF is the smallest cap I could find so I popped it in the tuner.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/532/18427848740_c5eebe3366_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/u5pxq1)

After some confusion with the counterclockwise channel numbering, I was able to tune something in :thmbsp:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/407/18617708811_7e0856e77c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/unbCcv)

Tightening a loose connection finally produced a clear picture. Horizontal sync is really bad, but so glad to finally have video and sound :banana:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/371/18615647855_826198409d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/un14xM)

Next a little experimenting with a 7ABP14A military CRT I picked up on ebay. Aluminized, electrostatic focus, compatible basing and voltages.

I was hoping it would make a good test CRT and it does. P14 is a purple/white dual color, dual persistence phosphor produce an odd, but watchable image,
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/293/18427911388_1755cfc0f0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/u5pS39)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/421/18621885531_cb23aa63d3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uny2MV)

Moving on to cabinet work now and boy does it need some!
Loose plywood laminations and veneer, veneer loss and badly flaking finish.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/428/18528205450_220278d1ef_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uegTY7) https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/482/18528209840_b5cc0f0458_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uegVgN) https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/396/18715935205_975a583a88_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uvS4u2)

One thing working in my favor is that the front trim and safety glass come off easily.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/375/18528137208_61f275eb7c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uegxFw)

The glass is in very good condition except for one spot in the upper right and some deterioration along the bottom.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/425/18529713559_a588e2b312_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uepCgZ)

Once the glass was flipped over, I discovered the source of both.
The deterioration is caused by the old cushioning material and the spot by a loose screw from the bezel.
The corrosion on the screw makes me think it fell out long ago. Maybe even way back when the cabinet was made.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/274/18711087772_c1be15aafd_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uvrdvA)


Let the clamping begin!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/561/18560917779_e455cefb6e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uhaycM)

Clamping continues. Pretty much every edge on the cabinet has some separation.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/498/18162802064_6bdaeb03ea_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tEZ7gJ)

These swivel clamp jaws are very handy for gripping shallow edges.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/325/18164733533_390a33d94c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tFa1qV)

Bob,

You are denying the Smithsonian one fine restorer by hanging out here! :D

I'm impressed, as usual.

Thanks! I do what I can :)

The speaker is mounted facing up on a removable curved board wrapped with perforated sheet meal painted to match the finish. Not very elegant - almost looks like an after thought. The speaker cone sure is dirty.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/512/18875834756_f7046885be_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uKZA3Q)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/532/18875839366_dbba0415da_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uKZBqj)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/322/18715941679_c9444dd723_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uvS6pD)

I replaced a whole strip off the back with new veneer. That results in a much cleaner repair than trying to splice in two triangular patches.

I say "new" veneer, but it's really vintage veneer salvaged from a damaged console set.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/551/18714393498_ece6f6f1b7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uvJabS)

Trimming off the new veneer with a specialized saw.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/465/18875808426_a014f46ba1_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uKZsdS)

It will match much better once stripped and refinished.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/515/18279525814_37ba1ffa37_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tRimbb)

That leaves repairing a few chips on the front. The detachable frame allows me to hide some repair splices.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/531/18896840352_bdddef0db5_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uMRfhh)

https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3841/18281412843_fcae4f64c3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tRt28a)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3843/18876263046_e6e7da638a_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uL2Mn9)

Finally time to start stripping!

Great progress. Saving removed veneer is a good idea, where else can you get a wear-matched piece? I took a big piece off a cabinet top with a steam iron and it looks as weatherbeaten as the surrounding veneer on most anything 60-70 years old.

Thanks! Here's a section after stripping where the "new" veneer is along the bottom. The grain and coloration is a great match :)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/272/18288890523_d2b674f886_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tS8kYF)

That's starting to look really good! Great job so far!!

Finished stripping and applied a wash coat of shellac. Next up - grain filling.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/405/18905832929_7955da5aa9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uNDksH)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/440/19092071475_e5ac949be3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/v66RG8)

I picked up a modern 0.47pF surface mount caps, but I don't think I'll be able to use it. Just a little to small to solder by hand :no:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/428/18908957379_fc626c1aca_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uNVmfx)

Have you tested the old one?

Phil Nelson

I tried, but it's much too small a value to even register on any of my testers.

Ah. I was just wondering about someone's previous suggestion that it might have been purposely ground down to achieve that value. It has a very regular carved-out look. It's hard to imagine how that could have happened by accident in the tight space inside a tuner . . . .

Phil

Yes, and I am definitely leaning towards that theory. After all, there are no trimmers in the tuner so how else would they have aligned it ?

Finished up with the Mohawk grain filler.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/551/18496044864_d4718fcb99_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ubr4Kf) https://farm1.staticflickr.com/330/18930857690_8392460115_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uQRAs7)

Today free time and good weather finally coincided and I sprayed on toner lacquer.

Three coats of Perfect Brown for the main body. Then masked off the bottom strip and four more coats to replicate the original look
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/258/19370765109_d93695d4eb_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vvJeAM) https://farm1.staticflickr.com/414/19370763629_d1024a58b8_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vvJeag)

The bottom got opaque pigment based Brown Mahogany toner.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/274/19372144398_3a54aeb404_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vvRiBC) https://farm1.staticflickr.com/344/19564373551_a1a2125f0b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vNQwDn)

Looking great Bob! :thmbsp:

Gregb

Thanks. Here it is with the control panel installed.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3760/19400137068_22469affbe_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vyjLRS)

I'm having some luck preserving the decals. I used some Mohawk Blush retarded and blender flow out to reflow the old, crazed lacquer, then sprayed on some new gloss clear.

I'll trying used some touchup markers in the areas where the old finish flaked off.

Before
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/547/19400424218_027d8a32dd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vymfdJ)

After
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/459/19581221262_b867c415f0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vQjST9)

Looks fantastic Bob

Did you do fine sanding after the grain filler but before spraying lacquer?

It looks like some rubbing out of lacquer was done by the clarity of that finish.

After the grain filler sets up, I spray on some lacquer sanding sealer and sand with 320 or 400 grit.

Nope, no rubbing out yet. I still want to put on a couple more coats of lacquer and let sit a couple weeks. If it turns out smooth enough, I may very well skip rubbing out entirely.

Amazing cabinet work Bob!!!

Thanks! I couldn't get a smooth enough spray using a rattle can and ended up rubbing out the finish. First with 2F then 4F pumice followed by Behlen deluxing compound.

Still a little work to do on the safety glass frame.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/517/19992524820_f48ffbed90_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wsEV6N)

I'm working on installing the safety glass but am having a little trouble. The old cushioning material is rock hard and flaking off. When it does, some of the pain comes with it :( I guess I'll try to stabilize it as best I can.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/342/20349066826_caabfc252d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/x1bhBL)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3667/20188669799_26e1f3bcd4_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wL1daM)

Yeah, I think I would run a thin line of clear super glue along the edges of the strips to keep what's there in place. It's turning out great!!

Thanks. I stabilized the strips with some glue and got it reinstalled. That just leaves the speaker grille in the top of the cabinet.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/346/19763872623_ea6e35e1ff_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/w7t1Lx)

Almost finished... The I was getting ready to reinstalled the speaker board when I noticed it had delaminated badly and was rusty. So I took it apart, glued up the board, stripped and refinished the metal.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5750/21036287539_d01f776b85_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/y3UtoK)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5826/20656671264_605955b04e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xtmQGy)

Not exactly a prefect match to the real wood, but neither was the original.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/7587761422_9fc09a4210_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/cyvg7N)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/726/21279377385_8742cf8aea_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/yqonwZ)

Nice. That is going to be a very handsome tabletop.

Is that a Westinghouse-designed chassis or did it use a Philco-licensed chassis like my H-181?

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Thanks. It's a Philco licensed chassis I believe. Very similar to a Philco 48-1001 except that it uses miniature 7 and 9 pin tubes rather than loktals and octals.