Well Back in action after a year of not seeing these sets. I have all my sets but 2 in my living room after my divorce. Gilligan and Green Acres on them. I watch all my old shows on them. 1960 RCA and 1966 GE Porta Color. They both look great.

They sure do!

I'm in love...

That floor model is S W E E T ! !

I bet that RCA Victor also sounds great too. It looks like a higher end console with extra speakers. Did they still have "Golden Throat Tone" in 1960? My grandmother's 1953 21" RCA Victor had that. TVs with a tone control were not that common in the lower end products.

To me the sound is every bit as important as the picture. I spent my entire childhood devoid of console TV sets at home. I got to see them all over the place at friends and relatives, but never at home. All our TVs were table models, portables and one consolette with swivel legs. We never had a TV that had good sound until I found an old console TV speaker still attached to its wooden grille and hooked it to our table model GE. It made all the difference in the world.

Is that RCA Victor a CTC11? I rescued a CTC11 not as fancy as yours about 30 years ago at a flea market and I haven't restored it yet. What do you use to get the signal to your TVs? I still have analog cable, but it doesn't have MEtv or AntennaTV. Green Acres has always been one of my favorite shows.

1960 RCA and 1966 GE Porta Color. They both look great.


:tears:

RCA CTC 10 Model# 211CD904 and yes it has 1 6x9 and 2 smaller tweeters. One on each side and really sounds great. I also have a CTC11 in my storage. There are pics in my info. I have owned these sets since April of 2012. I also have my Grandparents 1967 Motorola 21" that plays great too. It will be home in a few days and in my office. My CTC 11 has a slow CRT with cataract condition. Don't know if I should try to fix the cataract or look for a tube. Anyone with a spare 21FJP22? ya right.

SHould have been at the swap meet a few weeks ago I had a JFP with NO cataracts there...for sale !!

Still have it...back in the storage garage.

If you can stand not using that set for 2 weeks-3 months, and have a spare bathtub or other container large enough soak the CRT face down in just enough water to be above the safety glass and let time do the work.

RCA CTC 10 Model# 211CD904 and yes it has 1 6x9 and 2 smaller tweeters. One on each side and really sounds great. I also have a CTC11 in my storage. There are pics in my info. I have owned these sets since April of 2012. I also have my Grandparents 1967 Motorola 21" that plays great too. It will be home in a few days and in my office. My CTC 11 has a slow CRT with cataract condition. Don't know if I should try to fix the cataract or look for a tube. Anyone with a spare 21FJP22? ya right. If that crt tests good I don't think there is any reason you cant remove the cataract. Just be careful. There was a thread a couple of years ago here, it contained all the info you might need on doing it, there were pictures too, good luck with it.

Hi Tom, just got in from doing this today, it took about an hour. Hot sun, deep weighted garbage can, acouple of shims and 2 crappy chairs I found in the garbage for support, I think having patience is the most important thing, go slow. When you place the shims under where you dig out alittle of the PVA after a while "fingers" of air pockets form and it will just pop off after a little while. This is now a strong testing tube with good emission for future use. The price of these new or used is a pretty strong motivating factor for me now, if you want PM me and ill walk you through the process. Bruce

Nice work, yes patience is the key. Nice series of pics showing the "fingers" developing .

Very nice to see the sun-only method of CRT cataract repair working. I did a faceplate removal in a similar can setup, but with the heat gun (after having the CRT sit in the sun for a while first), however after knowing that a couple of tubes have imploded while doing that, I am not sure I want to try it again.

Hi Tom, just got in from doing this today, it took about an hour. Hot sun, deep weighted garbage can, acouple of shims and 2 crappy chairs I found in the garbage for support, I think having patience is the most important thing, go slow. When you place the shims under where you dig out alittle of the PVA after a while "fingers" of air pockets form and it will just pop off after a little while. This is now a strong testing tube with good emission for future use. The price of these new or used is a pretty strong motivating factor for me now, if you want PM me and ill walk you through the process. Bruce

Hi Bruce, I should do a work like yours soon, for the CRT of my Zenith Parkhurst, but my 21FJP22 is a General Electric tube with a glue that has a green halo at the sides. What is the brand of your tube? Do you think that the same work is possible or it should be better use another way?
Marco.

the green stuff is typically gooey, if it is the best way is to use a thin strong wire (like SS safety wire) to slice thru it with a sawing action. heating is ok to soften it but not sure about the wedges on the gooey type. You wrap the wire around a couple wood dowels to form handles then just pull it thru sawing as you go. this ONLY works on the green halo types. the white is far too hard will will not respond to the wire at all, even if it heated. I tried using a variac to heat the wire, even to red hot it would not begin to cut into it.

the down side to the green gooey type is its really messy where some work clothes that you don't mind messing up, and were some gloves so you dont get the gunk on your hands.

Hi Bruce, I should do a work like yours soon, for the CRT of my Zenith Parkhurst, but my 21FJP22 is a General Electric tube with a glue that has a green halo at the sides. What is the brand of your tube? Do you think that the same work is possible or it should be better use another way?
Marco.

I should have mentioned it, the crt was an RCA Hi-Lite and even though I have done about a half dozen of these ive never done any of the green halo types with the hot wire. I too have a GE 21fjp, and it looks like the glass is ready to fall off but the tube is so weak it doesn't seem worth doing.

Hi Bruce, I should do a work like yours soon, for the CRT of my Zenith Parkhurst, but my 21FJP22 is a General Electric tube with a glue that has a green halo at the sides. What is the brand of your tube? Do you think that the same work is possible or it should be better use another way?
Marco.

This video shows the process for removing the safety glass on CRTs with the green cataracts (commonly referred to as Zenith type cataracts).
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i469/ElectronicMemory/CRT%20cateract%20removal%20pictoral%20journal/th_ZenithCRTcateractremoval.mp4 (http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i469/ElectronicMemory/CRT%20cateract%20removal%20pictoral%20journal/ZenithCRTcateractremoval.mp4)

I used no. 18 guitar string (the steel kind) to do that. It was a VERY hot day that day (upwards of 85 degrees farenheight) which helps the process greatly.

Thank you guys! Just I'll have the right time, I'll do this operation!
What do you think about the possibility of glue again the safety screen?
I'd like make a work like the original system of to glue the whole screen surface, but I don't know what glue should be the best.
I've seen this video where at 2.15 minutes there is the glueing of the safety screen in a Bonded B&W CRT:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9hyE6jL1lg

I am not aware of any one here that has tried to rebond. One thing I have a plan to do is to try banding a rectangle crt (for a roundie I would just leave it unbonded and unbanded). This banding will simply be a steel band that is wrapped around the crt (steel strapping) with a crimped on connector. I have no idea of the types of banding, how tight, or any other things I need to do this right, so I will be testing on a dud with lots of safety gear on.