Who built the chassis, the one I have is a magnavox T939 chassis set. The mylar caps aged and ALL of them needed to be replaced. The convergence and purity is a little off, but I can't do it, it drives me crazy. After following the proper steps I could not get the entire screen, if the middle was great the corners were off, I just don't have the touch for it. It has a decent picture now.

http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p517/ygufty/4_zpsb5e6202e.jpg


http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p517/ygufty/P1080842_zps50cbe123.jpg



Before I worked on it
http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p517/ygufty/IMG_20130401_144230_zpsfd7ec72d.jpg

http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p517/ygufty/IMG_20130401_230350_zps7f374cbb.jpg

Magnavox built it.

I've had no real problems setting these sets up.

are you using a dot and cross bar generator? if not then it can be very hard to do a good job.

That Tri-Pointed-Magnetic Thingie on the neck of the picture tube don't look lined up properly
either.... That is most likely the biggest problem....

I straightened out that convergence assembly, but I think someone got to it before I did. holmesuser01 and DaveWM, I have a dot and bar generator but could use some tips for this particular model. I can't believe magnavox made the chassis itself, I heard from a tech that these chassis were imported from japan, or rca made them. Here's some more pics. Is the flyback supposed to leak, it hasn't gotten any worse after I've been lightly using it. I never seen a 60's tube tv before, so I don't even know if this is as good as it's supposed to work. With the 60 or so parts I had to replace, makes me wonder if there's more bad parts (open resistors mainly as it had 15 open ones, those molded ones) Is this a top of the line set or budget? Was a real adventure getting to work at all, more like a voyage, or a 46 year old headache. It was fun actually, many people would not understand that idea.


Purple trail to the right of text, changes with the color adj, not with the brightness adj.

Flesh tones change with each scene change (blue sky will make red faces, red background will make green faces).

Black level shifts drastically with changes in scenes.

Convergence!!!!!

------------------------------------------

Color pattern

http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p517/ygufty/P1080844_zps10aa11a2.jpg



Crosshatch pattern

http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p517/ygufty/2_zps1b48f9e7.jpg




Corners

http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p517/ygufty/3_zpsf484c526.jpg




Is this bad? Looks like it might have happened years ago.

http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p517/ygufty/P1080847_zps767a8d89.jpg

Well first things first, I think you need to address that ripple in the picture. It's in the
very first picture you posted, and it is also in the ones later, so I guess it is not the
signal source??? right ??? Different signal source for each of those pictures....
Is there hum in the sound as well...? Possibly AGC set too high, possible bad filter caps...?
AGC can also bring you those odd changes from scene to scene....
If there is a Sharpness control, you can turn it down and see what that does... I think
that set should not have one though...
I don't know who may have made it, Country of origin should be on it somewhere.....
I don't have much experience with Magnavox color sets. But your symptoms should be
independant of brand in this case anyway.... Good Luck ! Keep us posted....

The set is built by Maggy, they built most of there own
stuff. They did use jap sets for a few models over the years.
The squirrel is right, check the AGC & filter caps for the bend.
Edge convergence will never be perfect but the center will.
When you do it you have to go back & forth to the center &
do the process several times often. The controls also interact
& you often have to compromise a little.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Yes.. Pure Magnavox, not Japanese. And yes... bad filter can cap or AGC could be set too high. Also, don't forget to adjust the blue lateral magnet. The flyback looks fine, and I'm pretty sure it's a Thordarson replacement. ( I can tell from the black rubber coating) Thordarson made the BEST replacement flybacks.

Also, the signal looks strong, but I see your antenna leads are on UHF in picture 2. Should be VHF.

Also, the signal looks strong, but I see your antenna leads are on UHF in picture 2. Should be VHF.

You'll have to follow the leads coming from the tuner. The UHF and VHF leads might be swapped.
That was Magnavox's low-end model, that year. They used a 22KM6 horizontal output tube, that was short lived. :thumbsdn:
The set's more like a 1971-72 model.

agree with others, get the line straight 1st, AGC/filter caps etc...

shifting hues with scene changes... hmmm sounds like a defect in the burst signal to 3.58 mhz osc. the burst signal is used to lock the phase of the color osc (in some sets like GE's and other lower end sets the burst IS the signal that is used to demod the color). try tweeking the horz hold a bit when you see this happens. the burst is keyed by a horz pulse to only sample the video signal at the time the burst is transmitted. the pulse comes from the flyback.

This is not a fix just something to look for. I would recommend looking at tubes in the burst amp and any kind of phase detector in the chroma circuit. Also you should sub in a new 3.58 osc tube. You can also check the 3.58 osc is reactance coil is set, this is covered in the sams, you ground out the burst amp correcting voltage at the grid of the AFC tube and set the reactance coil so the resulting color bars do not move. this gets the 3.58 osc close to the correct setting. This is generally is done when you cant get a color lock, but it would not hurt to check it out, do not go crazy here if any adj is needed it will not be much. The fact that the color is working at all means it is at least within pull in range of the phase detector circuit.

the horz lines on the right are controlled by coils, they have peaks and operate over a fairly narrow range. IIRC they should be set 1st before the Left horz lines (done with pots). the main thing is to see if all the pots and coils do something. I had a issue with a CTC-7 that was from an open coil on the convergence board. Not saying this is your problem, but sometimes things don't work and all the tweeking in the world will not fix it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wYn3xLrZj0

You'll have to follow the leads coming from the tuner. The UHF and VHF leads might be swapped.
That was Magnavox's low-end model, that year. They used a 22KM6 horizontal output tube, that was short lived. :thumbsdn:
The set's more like a 1971-72 model.
I was wrong again! After looking at the first picture, it shows very clearly, that the antenna leads are proper.
I haven't seen sets, that had that many bad components. :no:

regarding the flyback. a little bit of wax drippings is no big deal. However its always a good idea to dip the cathode current of the horz out. The sams covers this procedure.

regarding the flyback. a little bit of wax drippings is no big deal. However its always a good idea to dip the cathode current of the horz out. The sams covers this procedure.

As often as the 22KM6 has to be replaced, it sounds like a good idea. :D

Flesh tone changes with scene - don't try to fix until you have that horizontal bending fixed - could just be bad burst gate timing due to bad horizontal timing.

I'm also amazed at so many bad non-lytic components. Replacing the lytics may fix a lot of this.

As often as the 22KM6 has to be replaced, it sounds like a good idea. :D

The later Magnavox designed roundie chassis' as well as the earlier rectangular ones will eat flybacks. The most common tell tale sign of the Magnavox design is the pull in-out focus slug with the plastic set screw eccentric for locking it in place.

I had forgotten about those series-string Maggie Color chassis. Ugh.

I stocked 22KM6's for many years. Always had at least 2 on hand.

I've already replaced all the lytic type caps first, still had almost no picture. The mylar caps failed, I tested them on a heatkit capacitor analyser. I couln't believe it, but sure enough about 30% of the ones i was pulling were bad, partial leakage. I remember they were brown and as I replaced them one by one the set came to life. So I just replaced all the film caps that were brown as so many were checking weird. Bad batch I would guess.


I'll try the agc again, but I remember clearly it didnt't have much effect on the color. Channel to channel the color needs contant tweaking, one channel faces are green, another could be purple and not have enough range on the tint cont. It's hooked up to cable.


The tv has ALL NEW tubes in it. Years ago I bought a truckload (literally) of brand new tubes for fifty bucks, I even tested them on my tube tester before they went in, even have a spare horiz output tube.


Is it possible it's a resistor as so many were completly open or like twice their value. Also the tv had no color when I first got it working, I found out it had this really big coil under the chassis. It had a giant spilt down it's form and was open. i carefullt found out the wire needed to be resoldered to it's terminal. Is that really long coil some kind of early attempt at making a delay line, or a filter or trap. It's like the size of a cigar and held together by luck (really deteroraited by age). I picked a real winner for my first tube type tv to collect and restore


This tv has the pull focus type setting, so i guess it really is made by magnavox. It also has a shapness control, but it's on the back, why would they do that. It's also got a chormotone switch which is set to off (chormatone makes the picture look like sepia tone, why would they think that looked good?) Also the line cord gets really hot, but horiz cathode current is on spec. I bought the sams for it.


At the time my crosshatch gen was giving me problems, the bend was related to how high I adjusted the output. I also noticed the set tint changes as the tv warms up. In fact it takes a good 5-8 minutes for the tv to have a decent picture. What's normal for these tvs, I grew up in the 90's so this is kind of new to me. But I know tube amps, they are most of my business. But tube tv is crazy. Just one more question, how good should the picture be if the tv was new, picture content has changed and I don't think they built these tvs for such light to dark shifts and bright graphics.

Can I post the sams on here?

Keith

This could be a long shot, but a year ago I pulled a '72 Sylvania hybrid out of a ditch that appeared to have lived outside for a few decades and after replacing a ton of parts it lived, but I could not get good convergence. I finally replaced the convergence diodes and I was able to achieve MUCH better convergence.