A CTC-10E arrived today from the luckiest guy in town. A check for shorts, and a 'slow start' after temporarily jumping the mains thermistor has rewarded me with hiss in the sound and a raster of sorts with no snow.
It has touch bar tuning and being there is no fine tuning knob, how do we get it to NOT skip chan-3. There seems to be some adjustments (fine tuning?) for each channel that will need a long thin screwdriver. Do these get adjusted in, out, or never.
Ive not pulled the chassis all the way out yet but I wanted to run a pattern thru it. At this moment I dont want to mechanicaly adjust anything without my inspection or yall's advice.

Here's a page from an RCA factory manual which shows how it works. Basically you turn those screws for the channels you want all the way clockwise, ones you don't counterclockwise. And it does have the fine tuning, push in the small knob over the push-bar and turn it, and it adjusts it separately for each channel. A different gear corresponding to each channel lines up with it each time the tuner rotates. The manual calls it "One-Set" fine tuning. If you want a bigger image of that scan let me know, that's the largest size pic I can attach.

Nice score! Just last night I finished installing a new 21FBP22 into the CTC10 in my living room and I'm really happy with the results. It has that same power tuner in it and I had no idea that it was the type that could be adjusted to skip channels since mine stops on all of them. Do you have the remote control on your set?

Here's some pictures of the set..

It does have a remote and the holder still in place on the back of the set..

It came from a collector in Kansas city Kansas.. He also had a bunch of other sets that were mainly B/W, and I believe other collectors have got sets from him... He's a nice guy and very honest.. The set arrived in better condition I thought it would be in.. I'm surprised the tube tests pretty descent..

Very good, I see the shaft now. I removed the plate but didn,t remember seeing a little knob attached. Its silver colored unlike the others and was hiding in the bag withe the rest of the stuff.
Simmilar to the RCA's of the mid 60s, it seems, to make it skip channels. Its great to have the factory info. Sams as good as they were in a broad brush kind of way, didn't get the details that could only be gleaned from mfr specific publications.

Thanks ADAM !

TVCOLLECTOR is a very lucky guy indeed. I slid the chassis out just enough to get to the missing thermistor and this set appears to be very clean. No smoke or dust on the HV wires even. Very little dust inside. This set has been parked in a clean undisturbed environment for a LONG time.

This is by far the oldest chassis Ive worked on for a long time. I once owned a CTC something in H.S. with a 21axp22 in it. The top of the cabinet could come off to do setups. I remember at the time wondering why it looked better than the "new sets" at sears. We all know now.

Bars but no color. Initial purity awfull but a quick degauss and rough purity set and we have a good red field. I replaced the focus rectifier and HV rect. to get this much of an image but the raster still wants to bloom quite badly at high brightness. Ill be checking the CRT scocket voltages next and checking tubes.

Took a break from recaping and looked over the remote control. The channel motor was very weak and I suspect the N.P. Run Cap. As it turns out the same motor operates the volume, tint and color controls. Everthigs geard together and what I thought was a motor on the schematic is actualy a clutch. This is going to be fun if its more than a run cap. I have a remote transmitter but it puts out nothing if powered w 4 volts.
This whole setup looks like a slot machine.

You're welcome..

coming along I see.. I'm glad to see that you have an actual raster on the screen, may not be a good one yet, but it's good to see that it's coming along..

I'm the previous owner of this set. Glad to see that you think tvcollector was 'lucky' - I hope this beast continues to cooperate and comes back to life. It was completely undisturbed for about the last 15 years. That power tuner looks like quite a nightmare! Hoping to see more updates soon. Good luck.

Looks like 10's/11's are popular lately... another great example of one!

I'm the previous owner of this set. Glad to see that you think tvcollector was 'lucky' - I hope this beast continues to cooperate and comes back to life. It was completely undisturbed for about the last 15 years. That power tuner looks like quite a nightmare! Hoping to see more updates soon. Good luck.

Of my CTC-7 Anderson too :D Thanks again for ending a long search! Gonna finish it as soon as I get a place! Sorry to hijack thread....back to your regular scheduled programming..... :)


This CTC-10 is beautiful! I love it! Glad it went to a "loving" home! :)

The CRT cathode volts plunge down to 175 if the brightnes cont is advanced. The range is way too wide. In looking at the Sams I dont see a signal path for video between the Video amp and Video output. I"m sure it's a Sams oops. The Vid-out grid is way positive from what it should be at a normal setting of the brightness control. I think these two stages are likely direct coupled, but I want to make an educated guess before going further or pulling the chassis again. Any body have insight of a description of the circuit?

check the blanker grid, there are a couple neon light in that blanker circuit as well. I guess they are there to regulate the voltage tapped off that grid as well, all tied into the brightness control circuit. did you replace the 2uf cap?

Wow Dave. Pulled two to replace it, got a phone call, finished replacing the Vert cathode cap. Just looked on the bench and there the two 1s at 450 layin there. Think I can slide the chassis back enough to do it in set. That could well be the source of the extra positive on the Vid-Out grid. Didn't notice any neon lamps in there, maybe a production change along the way
Thanks

Wow Dave. Pulled two to replace it, got a phone call, finished replacing the Vert cathode cap. Just looked on the bench and there the two 1s at 450 layin there. Think I can slide the chassis back enough to do it in set. That could well be the source of the extra positive on the Vid-Out grid. Didn't notice any neon lamps in there, maybe a production change along the way
Thanks

look on the grid of the blanker tube, they do not show on the pcb, so prob in that chroma hand wired area. Hopefully the cap will take care of it.

Turned out not to be too much positive voltage but, not enough negative. Someone replaced two resistors R-64 and R-135 (Sams) with values that in total equated to three times the original value. There was not enough negative voltage getting to the brightness control to pull it back enough from positive, thus the sky high grid volts. One of these was on a terminal strip on the top rear of the chassis. This was a factory location but seem like an odd place for it.
Next stop is the seemingly high Horiz cathode current @225 ma. Sharp dip when adjusting the eff coil and drive and grid bias is good. May be possible aged transformer that will have to be tollerated.

Mine has the neon bulbs. The wires to them were broken when I got the set, so I replaced them with new NE-2 lamps in 1975. Now and then, I can see them lit.