Anybody?

I would just buy a good basic tester on ebay. They are not very expensive if you are looking for just shorts and basic emission. There are some high end testers that are nice, but the best test in a TV is to substitute another tube for the one you think may be bad. A good Sencore, or B&K would be fine. Someone on here may be able to fix you up with one even.

I would just buy a good basic tester on ebay. They are not very expensive if you are looking for just shorts and basic emission. There are some high end testers that are nice, but the best test in a TV is to substitute another tube for the one you think may be bad. A good Sencore, or B&K would be fine. Someone on here may be able to fix you up with one even.

Ok thanks appreciate. But in the mean time, can u tell me how to do a filament check with a multimeter?

I learned how to do the multimeter test by going to the library many many years ago. I really cant even remember how to do it. My memory says you need to find a tube chart and go from there.

The sets you have been posting here all use parallel string filiments. If the tube lights the filiment is ok. If they were series string sets with no power transformer you would need to check each tube since a burnt out filiment will cause the entire string of tubes not to light. Series string color consoles are indeed rare. If you want to check with a multimeter, you need the tube base diagram to identify the filiment pins. Then you can check for continuity between those pins.

Where in N.J. are you? Perhaps I can help or find someone who can.

Greenbrook Electronics may still have a tube tester. They have been around forever, but call and verify before you go: http://www.greenbrookelectronics.com/

For filaments MOST the time

7 pin min. 3&4
9 pin min. 4&5
12 pin compactron 1&12
I dont remember the older ones.

Make a continuity tester mount sockets in a box, wire
the fillament pins in parallel. Use 6v from batteries or
wall wart in series with a 6v lamp.
Plug in tube- if lamp lights fillament OK
DO NOT do 1v radio tubes !!

In set series test. Meter on AC, lead to chassis ground, set ON.
Probe each fil. pin. When you get 110v one one pin but not the
other the tube is opened......

There are other ways to find bad tubes but it gets
a bit long, maybe another time.

As far as tube testers go we never used one. It was for
the customers. Biggest money maker in the shop.

73

Greenbrook Electronics may still have a tube tester. They have been around forever, but call and verify before you go: http://www.greenbrookelectronics.com/



Called them today, they do test tubes. Great advice, i owe u big time.

All you need is a tube basing chart and an ohmmeter. Check across the filament pins. If no ohms reading, filament is open.

In most tubes you can see the two pins that go to the filaments. Its the two pins that go to the inner most parts of the stuff in the tube. There will be 2 pins that come up and bend towards the center of the lower parts for the workings of the tube. These pins will look similar on most tubes, no matter the number of pins. If there is any question, look at a working tube on something you have. With a little practice you will be able to easily spot them in the future. Not this easy on metal tubes..... Test with an ohm meter on its lowest scale Rx1 A reading of what looks like 0 or close 10 ohms depending on your meter is a good filament. Infinity or OL (open load) as some digital meters say when the test leads are not touching is a bad or open filament.

From Zeno:
For filaments MOST the time

7 pin min. 3&4
9 pin min. 4&5
12 pin compactron 1&12

This is correct, look at these pins, you will see the distinctive signs these pins feed the filaments.