A rare find I was using as a daily driver in the dining room for a few years after I replaced caps.

Now I finally decided to restore the cabinet which was never very nice then abused by two tabbies as a step-stool to the top of a hutch.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8371/8553012076_7040044f13.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/93982548@N05/8553012076/)

Very tall cats. Stop by some time neighbor!

Sure will once I get this one done Dave. I need to replace veneer and match-restore its original finish.

This model is the same chassis as a A-53 but in a console.

Once some major progress is made, I link a new photo stream. My VK 20meg picture limit has been reached.

Sure will once I get this one done Dave. I just glued then ironed on new veneer and its finish ready.

This model is the same chassis as a A-53 but in a console.

Once some major progress is made, I link a new photo stream. My VK 20meg picture limit has been reached.
I have an A53, which is a non-AVC superhet, that uses a 6J7 power detector.
Your A55 is a newer, better set with AVC. The table model is a A-52. FYI.:scratch2:

The veneer has been successfully applied to the top and front accent blocks of this radio.
For the top, the original I steamed off appeared to be black walnut. Once off, the top panel was just 1/4", panels of two species joined. I decided to add a second, whole panel for a substrate for the new walnut veneer to bond to. It can later be edge rounded using the router to mirror the quarter-round below it, a common art-deco feature.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8096/8581310854_ac7abde3a8.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/93982548@N05/8581310854/)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/8581310824_71a58e6ba0.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/93982548@N05/8581310824/)

Since the veneer "blocks" appeared to be burl maple, I chose the same species but it was thin and sort of lumpy.
I took advice of Bob Anderson and coated both veneer and base then letting sit for a few hours.
Ideally, I suppose the glue needs time to soak into both veneer and base substrate.
I used Titebond woodworkers glue spread with a foam brush, a thin but complete coating is enough. I clamped it a few hours later after the glue dried
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8391/8580210071_cbe94a0f13.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/93982548@N05/8580210071/)

Using my steam iron to remove old veneer was one easy task.
I used it again a day after to flatten any "bubbles" by re-softening the glue.
The veneer will need to be trimmed with a hobby knife for an original-looking fit.

The stain for the new veneer work has to be selected...but its hard to match the original colors.
The question is: do I match what the present finish is, or try to restore to the original color?
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8229/8581310746_eba964ed6c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/93982548@N05/8581310746/)
Here is the burl chip in the middle of all the stain samples I could use, after I hit the adjacent finish with Howards Restor-a-finish, the color may be different.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8085/8581310724_e64c50e20d.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/93982548@N05/8581310724/)
Many factors seem to affect the color you're trying to restore to after 77 years.
The patina of the wood, a characteristic of age, combines with an aging original finish to make something that is not exactly an exact match to a standard palette.
The remainder of this radios finish is faded and scratched and will be addressed also.

I used some Howard's restor-a-finsh on the front to better match the finish and that was a GOOD decision.

It looks like mahogany was the finish applied to the walnut veneer, so now I shlep back to but yet another can of stain. You only get one chance to do this right...