:thmbsp:

Great sets

Great sets

More sets!:thmbsp:

The RCA should make the nicest pic restored, followed by the Crosley.

Or are they restored? And if so...am I right? :scratch2:

This all YOUR stuff ? If so, you've got a HELLUVA collection !

The RCA should make the nicest pic restored, followed by the Crosley.

Or are they restored? And if so...am I right? :scratch2:

Sadly the crosly is getting junked out next week if you want it its free the doors knobs and pencilbox door are gone, and it has bad caps. The rca was sold last month. tThe zenith floor model radio I have the tabletop to.

This all YOUR stuff ? If so, you've got a HELLUVA collection !

a couple were a friends i also have a rare philco predicta aka my avitar. I have a 1951 admiral tabletop tv that works with a built in radio.

That 1960 GE is an interesting one also. Is it a power-tuning and possibly remote model?

They advertised how those shallow-depth models did not "protrude" into your living room.

What is the blonde model in your last pic? The one with the "square framed" round tube and hidden controls. Don't think I've seen one like that before... -Cory

What a motherlode! I'm glad you posted that 41 or 42 Zenith console. I have been looking for the rare AM-only version of that one, now everyone can see what I'm talking about.

Sadly the crosly is getting junked out next week if you want it its free the doors knobs and pencilbox door are gone, and it has bad caps.

....

[bites tongue] ouch!

Where are you located?

What is the blonde model in your last pic? The one with the "square framed" round tube and hidden controls. Don't think I've seen one like that before... -Cory

Thats an old magnavox no clue if it works, needs a cord (not a plug in cord)

....

[bites tongue] ouch!

Where are you located?
sorry:tears:
YOU ARE THINKING OF THE THIRD PICTURE RIGHT?
indianapolis indiana 46219 It has a very rare tuner.
but the pencil box knobs and door knobs and hinges are already gone, free
Im ubout to put it on the curb at videokarma thread illsend a picture of it now.

What a motherlode! I'm glad you posted that 41 or 42 Zenith console. I have been looking for the rare AM-only version of that one, now everyone can see what I'm talking about.

I have the table top model to its model no is 7s634r.

What was wrong enough on the admiral to cause it to get junked?

That's what I was wondering, but I think you mean the Crosley. I hate to see that happen to such a nice looking set...but I have a few nice looking sets that need a good tube. I'd very much like to know the condition of that one.

What was wrong enough on the admiral to cause it to get junked?

Thats a crosley its not junked yet only about 1/3 done tubes are gone transformer, and caps are bad picture tube (I THINK) has shorts
Trust me im not an idiot that goes and junkes everything he sees FISHTANK TVS ARE MY NIGHTMARE!

That's what I was wondering, but I think you mean the Crosley. I hate to see that happen to such a nice looking set...but I have a few nice looking sets that need a good tube. I'd very much like to know the condition of that one.

Missing pencil box tubes knobs door knobs door hinges tubes caps are bad and transformer, but i still have it thats it still has the back

:banana::banana::banana:Hey out there in tv land we are having a tv sale we will be posting pix on the shop website next week , there will be 2 sylvania halolite tvs and two arvin tvs 1959 rca corner black and white tv and others these sets will have to be picked up at 6301 east washington street friday saturday and sunday 10am-530 pm indianapolis, indiana so happy collecting...:thmbsp::D:banana:

:banana::banana::banana:Hey out there in tv land we are having a tv sale we will be posting pix on the shop website next week , there will be 2 sylvania halolite tvs and two arvin tvs 1959 rca corner black and white tv and others these sets will have to be picked up at 6301 east washington street friday saturday and sunday 10am-530 pm indianapolis, indiana so happy collecting...:thmbsp::D:banana:

Tim your bringing another halolight, and another arvin?

aka my avitar is a philco predicta army set any clue what model?

Oh my GOD!!

There are so many.............BANANAS!!!
I better watch my step in THIS room

:yes:

Oh my GOD!!

There are so many.............BANANAS!!!
I better watch my step in THIS room

:yes:

:lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

Free crosley (1954) tv set.

Somebody is trying to get their post count up really quick.

Somebody is trying to get their post count up really quick.

It works to!

Sadly the rca (PICTURE 5) from chanel 6s office 1949 production sample
was junked by my (IM VERY MAD AT FRIEND) tvtimeisfun:scratch2::nono::no::sigh::tears::tears :

Kind of annoying to see ALL the "new posts" when I check in....are this same ALL CAPS guy saying nothing.

I'm reserving judgement until I find out whether the member's birth year begins with a 1 or a 2.

Kind of annoying to see ALL the "new posts" when I check in....are this same ALL CAPS guy saying nothing.

sorry

I have a 1958 philco pedicta army set aka my avitar

Does anyone have 1950s tvs for sale in indianapolis indiana?

There are so many.............BANANAS!!!
I better watch my step in THIS room



Better be careful of the hazardous waste! :D
:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:
:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:
:banana::banana:

Oh my GOD!!

There are so many.............BANANAS!!!
I better watch my step in THIS room

:yes:

We need some one with the user name DonkeyKong to sign up become a mod and cleanup this town!:pistols:

Better be careful of the hazardous waste! :D
:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:
:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:
:banana::banana:

ha!

my 1951 admiral is working fine

Tomorow im getting a 1950s sylvania halolight combo! radio/ recordplayer work tv has a bad high voltage cap. the combo unit halolights are rare!

just got my halolight combo!
almost died getting it up the STAIRS!

any idea how to fix a stuck vm 950 record changer?

Here are even more bananas! (laughing maniacally):banana::banana::banana::banana::banana ::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:: banana::banana::banana::banana:.....Oh....it'll only let me put fifteen on here at a time??! I wanted to fill the SCREEN with them. ;3 And some of them aren't even working! TCH! I'm leaving....

just got my halolight combo!
almost died getting it up the STAIRS!:banana:

Tip for moving a console up or down stairs: remove the chassis and CRT from the cabinet then move the three separately to the place you want them, for reassembly.

It is official, now there are more bananas here than a bad game of Mario Kart.

I love Mario Kart! :banana: It's been a long time since I played it, have it for the Wii somewhere:banana::D

I fixed the record changer

Tip for moving a console up or down stairs: remove the chassis and CRT from the cabinet then move the three separately to the place you want them, for reassembly.

It is official, now there are more bananas here than a bad game of Mario Kart.

And...carpeted stairs:banana: allow you to push the cabinet up without help.:banana:I moved many a set up two flights of stairs in my parents house this way.:banana: It was just way too cold in the basement to work on TVs in the winter.:banana: No accidents, no scratches, ever.

5, 4, 3, 2...

And...carpeted stairs:banana: allow you to push the cabinet up without help.:banana:I moved many a set up two flights of stairs in my parents house this way.:banana: It was just way too cold in the basement to work on TVs in the winter.:banana: No accidents, no scratches, ever.
I figured that out earlier this summer after moving to my new house.

I was worried about carpet tack scratches, but none occurred. We were going to hire movers for mom's gigantic dresser(roundy combos only wish they could be so big and heavy!), but with team work and that technique we were able to move it.....It had all the drawers removed and STILL was WAY harder to manage than any of my TVs!:jawdrop:

Here are even more bananas! (laughing maniacally):banana::banana::banana::banana:
:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:
:banana::banana::banana:.....Oh....it'll only let me put fifteen on here at a time??! I wanted to fill the SCREEN with them. And some of them aren't even working!

I see your 13 bananas, and raise you two more... :banana::banana:

LOL!!! Thanks for adding the two that didn't work:D! :banana:

What does it mean if a 1951 admiral has retrace lines? bad caps?

Usually it does mean bad caps or resistors. But if you are watching a DVD they show on top because of the anti copy protection that is encoded into the DVD. The lines then will come and go like every 30 seconds. Also, if the CRT has a short it can cause retrace. what are you using for a source on this set? VCR, DVD ect....http://www.pimpmysmiley.com/get-smiley.php?s=2_15 (http://www.pimpmysmiley.com)

Usually it does mean bad caps or resistors. But if you are watching a DVD they show on top because of the anti copy protection that is encoded into the DVD. The lines then will come and go like every 30 seconds. Also, if the CRT has a short it can cause retrace. what are you using for a source on this set? VCR, DVD ect....http://www.pimpmysmiley.com/get-smiley.php?s=2_15 (http://www.pimpmysmiley.com)

vcr, sometimes dvd, but it does that on both it has a very strong picture tube i checked it last week:blah:

Did you check it for shorts? If not, do that. If it's fine, recap the set if it's all original. It would be best to change all the wax/paper caps at this point. Do it one at a time, don't cut 'em all out at once or anything. Check the resistors in the vertical circuit too. They tend to drift upward in value as they age.

Visible retrace lines are normal for an Admiral from the era. You can make a minor circuit modification to suppress them though.

mbear2k was kind enough to scan and make available the details in Rider TV Manufacturers' Receiver Trouble Cures - Volume 1

http://www.oldtubes.net/library/free_manuals/

Visible retrace lines are normal for an Admiral from the era. You can make a minor circuit modification to suppress them though.

mbear2k was kind enough to scan and make available the details in Rider TV Manufacturers' Receiver Trouble Cures - Volume 1

http://www.oldtubes.net/library/free_manuals/

Thanks

I thought you sold it...? The one in your signature, that is. Or are you talking about a different Admiral?

I thought you sold it...? The one in your signature, that is. Or are you talking about a different Admiral?

Same one, but the guy i sold it to (tvtimeisfun) is a friend, and i can talk to him about it

Uh, OK.

Just got a 1965 zenith CoLoR

i just got a 1962 rca, and a 1972 rca tube type tvs:thmbsp::yes:

i just watched an itiot smash a 1950s portable tv ON PORPOSE!:tears::tears::tears::tears::tears::tears: :tears:

Flipper gonna be OK?

http://www.whoaorno.com/images/964.jpg

just got a 1950 arvin tv, had it in another fourm, but people only complained so it was closed. it has half a weak picture

According to the moderator, it was closed at your request.

It's only two threads down, from this one, right now. I'm sure anyone that had an interest has already read it. Why bring it up again?

http://www.whoaorno.com/images/964.jpg

what did i miss ,whats happening

According to the moderator, it was closed at your request.

It's only two threads down, from this one, right now. I'm sure anyone that had an interest has already read it. Why bring it up again?

yes it was closed at my request, becouse the thread didnt have a word about the set just fighting about why i think you should use parts untill they die

I gotta say. You just joined this month and you already have 162 posts?

Dayum.

That's it man, run em until they blow.

There was no fight. There were a few members trying unsuccessfully to convince young Radiotron to follow a different path on his projects.

He feels otherwise.

NO!.....You don't "use the parts until they die" on a TV set. The "dead part" if left unnatended will almost ALWAYS bring the set out of safety tolerances....and then bring down the rest of the parts your "weak" part supports. Yes...you can usually "adjust out" the problem up until you notice the vertical size is "maxed" to one side or something...but it means you have something to tend to BEFORE you suddenly have NO vertical and the set becomes a basket case. Your signature pic shows you tend to just "tolerate" every show looking like you are watching The Coneheads (You are probly too young to know who those guys are.....Look 'em up, they are funny as HELL!). That linearity/height problem is something you HAVE to diagnose. At least get a decent pattern generator so you can SEE there is a problem before it becomes much worse. Even just a good clean crosshatch can be a WONDERFUL tool.

yes it was closed at my request, becouse the thread didnt have a word about the set just fighting about why i think you should use parts untill they die


The problem with your "philosophy" is that some components can take other, often irreplaceable components out when they fail. A filter capacitor that fails shorted can take out a power transformer. A failed component in a horizontal oscillator circuit can burn up a flyback.

A failed 10 cent part can potentially cause enough damage to prevent a set from ever running again. Certain types of components are KNOWN not to age well, and should generally be replaced (or at least PROPERLY tested) before applying power to an old set.

If you know enough about vintage electronics and have all the proper equipment, you might get away with a CONTROLLED reduced voltage power-up stage-by-stage on some sets. But your posts tend to indicate that your skill set isn't there yet.

I think Matthew Henry said it best:

"There are none so deaf as those that will not hear"

Good advice has been given here, and largely ignored or disputed.

jr

I like to kinda let things just roll as they will but,........I'm getting a bit tired of it now. Radiotron or Johnny, why do you not listen to the experts? Why do you argue with them? I remember being very young and I listened carefully to what people like the ones here say. I STILL do at age 30. I try to learn something new everyday. We are trying to teach you what to, and not to do. When we say the caps are bad (even if the set works) they are bad. People here have tried to tell you exactly what is wrong with every set you have posted about. I know you say complain to tvtimeisfun but he really hasn't had much to say in general on the forums. You are the one posting a lot of things and should be responsible for your own actions. I really hope you are learning from your grandpa as to repair old sets. My grandpa died before I really got to know him and he was a tv repairman in the '60's and 70's. If yours knows his stuff on old electronics, learn everything you can from him and treasure the information, and also from the wonderful members here. Most of the people here worked on this stuff back in the day and still do so it's best to just listen to their advise. MOST importantly, do not get hurt on an old tv. These things have deadly voltage inside and we are trying to keep you safe as well. When things short out LIKE OLD ELECTROLYTIC CAPS they can put line voltages on the chassis at times amongst other hazards involved in old tv repair. Some sets have one side of the ac line on the chassis at all times and are dangerous to begin with so it's best to listen. I'm done rambling now and I guess it's my job as a moderator to do so once in a while but please think about it....K?......

If it wasn't for the people here and their advice on how to fix things or identify things, my Samsung TV would have been back in the trash.

But because we have smart people here, like radiotvnut that knew about the flyback issue well before I even turned on this TV set, I knew what to look for when it had problems right on day 2..

DANGER WILL ROBINSON DANGER!!! i sense a capacitor debate spillover from a closed discussion :boxing:

Here is a good idea next time you see a tv set or radio just skip over it and buy some test equipment like tube tester and capacitor checkers that should help you out a lot and show you wich caps really need replaced. if you really ate wanting to keep as many orgional parts in the tv as possible while keeping it working reasonably well this is the way to go for you I believe. Me I always replace the lyrics and papers in the old sets unless I don't have the part on hand.

Here is a good idea next time you see a tv set or radio just skip over it and buy some test equipment like tube tester and capacitor checkers that should help you out a lot and show you wich caps really need replaced. if you really ate wanting to keep as many orgional parts in the tv as possible while keeping it working reasonably well this is the way to go for you I believe. Me I always replace the lyrics and papers in the old sets unless I don't have the part on hand.

i have a tube tester the cap thing is just my grandpa doesnt like giving out parts when the set works im not going against you guys its just that tvtimeisfun does the same thing he fired up a 65 zenith color that wasnt fired in over 40 years it only needed a horiz. output tube
ive never a a set go with bad caps when i used it ive had tubes go out when i was watching it, but never caps in the 2 years ive been doing this

That's just stupid.. Capacitors go out more than tubes.. Tubes are in a vacuum.. Capacitors aren't and they DRY up!

2 years you've been doing this, and you're already this stubborn? Good luck with frying nice old TV's. Just because someone else does it, doesn't mean it's right.

capacitors are the number one thing in new or esp. old equitment that fail ,they can become leaky ,shorted,open,change value,become resisted ,they can cause intermitent problems, can cause unfiltered voltage's or in blocking aplacation's to damage semiconductor's or electron tube's . the old can type multi side electrolytic dry up ,are internaly leaky ,most of the time they are in a open condition. the same with the wax paper caps they failed back in day on regular base's heat & wax dont mix , im not a fan of reforming either if its bad replace it ,to say you have never had to replace a cap before or your grandpa doesnt like giving out parts when the set works ,is kinda a mystery.

I'm going to say this. This picture says it all.

This TV is from 2008: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/blowncap.jpg

And that capacitor, caused this giant problem in the video processing chip: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/blownchip.jpg

Yea. So, REPLACE THOSE CAPS!

I'm going to say this. This picture says it all.

This TV is from 2008: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/blowncap.jpg

And that capacitor, caused this giant problem in the video processing chip: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v395/Evilweredragon/blownchip.jpg

Yea. So, REPLACE THOSE CAPS!

good picture

GREAT pic of "look for any that look swolen...or are sitting oddly on the board" I had posted in another thread about a generic 5" set (forget where I posted that).

Your pic is a GREAT example of pretty much BOTH of those conditions. It's too bad only really these type of electrolytics do this very obvious fail. The rest....I am sorta having to GUESS..since I do not yet have a capacitor checker.

Is an "ESR" meter really even sufficient to test the "big" caps? I ask...because I have seen that in order to check a cap correctly, you have to be able to CHARGE it to it's rated voltage. No way the little ESR meters I see with (I assume a 9V battery) can do this?

I would get one for pretty much MOST the little solid state stuff I play with...but it seems not sufficient to have even a "good" meter with a capacitor checking section on the dial.

Unless of course...I am wrong. Most the little "micro" sets I work with have electrolytics (just like these in most cases)...rated to maybe 16v-50v or so. Only place I have been running into "big boy" caps...are the big old Sony solid state sets ("big" being relative....since my "big" sets are 9" sets). The Sony sets with these bigger caps almost ALWAYS exhibit linearity and horizontal stability problems. I tend to recap them in a "shotgun" fashion without being able to really check 'em.

Seriously, you need to replace the old electrolytic caps. They cost a lot less, and are easier to obtain than, a power transformer. Even the big multisection cap cans. You can use individual single unit caps to replace them. But don't just solder the new caps across the old caps, that won't protect you if the old caps short out (this is the failure mode to fear, this is what will ruin the power transformer). I've taken a hacksaw and cut the old can cap just above the crimp bulge (this is where the rubber gasket seal is housed), removing the old cap can and guts, and Ive drilled small holes thru the gasket and passed new cap leads from above to the terminals below. Some people will go to the trouble of carefully tucking the new caps inside the old can (after the guts are pulled out (nothing overly toxic, but don't eat it and wash your hands afterwards)) but I've just had the new caps out in the open (but take care to be sure they can't flop around and short out to something).

Flybacks and yokes and CRTs are also hard to find replacements for, so we also change out the caps around them as well.

I know, as a kid you probably have no real money to get this stuff, but you risk ruining hard to obtain parts.

Is an "ESR" meter really even sufficient to test the "big" caps? I ask...because I have seen that in order to check a cap correctly, you have to be able to CHARGE it to it's rated voltage. No way the little ESR meters I see with (I assume a 9V battery) can do this?

As a technician I wish that I could answer this question and would like to know myself what difference there is (if any) between an ESR meter and the capacitance mode of common DVOMs. There is no use to go buy an ESR if you can use your digital meter I would think. Even in college we had an ESR and nothing more, but I know that there is a tester that actually loads the capacitor. That is what I would think that any of us would want, especially since we are dealing with working voltages way above those found in modern equipment.

I agree with wa2ise, replace all electrolytic and paper caps. A while back, I restored a 1953 Emerson. There was one paper cap that was hard to get to. As it only had 4 volts across it(in the AGC circuit), I left it in. Guess what the cap failed in very short order, causing picture and sync overload. I had to go back in and replace it.

A more recent experience was with a 1958 RCA portable. In this case, there were some capacitors that were packaged like the modern orange drops, so I assumed they were still ok. No! I had to replace these to get correct vertical linearity and height(which would shrink as the set warmed up). I am not sure if they were paper inside or just heat damaged. Now I just replace these as well!

40 to 50 year old caps are no good. The technology to make good, long lasting capacitors was just not available then. (I am not sure it is available now for electrolytics!).

(I am not sure it is available now for electrolytics!).

Nope.. It just doesn't exist sadly.. Maybe longer than then, but not good.