hi all just picked up an rca new vista roundie with the swivle base, really nice. has a new crt dated november 1982 and tests great but it needs the 2 thermistors, one for the degauss i think and the other i think the b+. does anyone have a copy of the schematic or know what year this chassis came out, 65 or 66?

The bigger one is a vdr, the smaller one is a thermistor. I use CL90 to replace the thermistor which is usually what goes bad. You can Google CL90 and find it online for a few dollars.

I can email you the pdf of the 16x. Anything for my timmy :king:

So you picked up that set that was being discussed in the "curbside" thread....good for you!! It's been saved.

1965 for that set. I have the same set. You can jump the 2 leads on the thermistor for testing purposes but should be replaced some time soon. It is not on the B+ bus, it is on one leg of the AC line. Congrats, those are good and reliable sets.

The bigger one is a vdr, the smaller one is a thermistor. I use CL90 to replace the thermistor which is usually what goes bad. You can Google CL90 and find it online for a few dollars.

I can email you the pdf of the 16x. Anything for my timmy :king:

what is the bigger one for, vdr? that would be great if you can email me a copy , the email is , [email protected]

So you picked up that set that was being discussed in the "curbside" thread....good for you!! It's been saved.

this set was on craigslist here in ny and was 2 hrs from me and was an estate sale.

1965 for that set. I have the same set. You can jump the 2 leads on the thermistor for testing purposes but should be replaced some time soon. It is not on the B+ bus, it is on one leg of the AC line. Congrats, those are good and reliable sets.
It is in the B+ line and the X is later, 66-67.

The VDR is in series with the degausing coil and is there because it has a sharp cutoff. It almost totally removes the current from degausing coil because the voltage never drops to zero across the thermistor. Otherwise you would see weird color bars and noise. Think of it like a relay that disconnects the degusing coil when the thermistor gets hot.

If you fire it up just make sure you keep feeling the electrolytic cans, if one starts getting hot, pull the plug and let it cool off. They like to leak in these rcas but they do reform and wake up.

It is in the B+ line and the X is later, 66-67.

The VDR is in series with the degausing coil and is there because it has a sharp cutoff. It almost totally removes the current from degausing coil because the voltage never drops to zero across the thermistor. Otherwise you would see weird color bars and noise. Think of it like a relay that disconnects the degusing coil when the thermistor gets hot.

If you fire it up just make sure you keep feeling the electrolytic cans, if one starts getting hot, pull the plug and let it cool off. They like to leak in these rcas but they do reform and wake up. i thought roundies were done by 67 but oh well maybe this was the last made who knows. so ill have to find the vdr for the degauss being its there so i might just as well use it but the old one was burned really bad. its a model GG637 W.

They made roundies into the early 70s. They were cheap buget sets by then. Yesteryears crap.

How's the fly look and smell. These have a rep for eating flys and the direct replacements are hard to find. You can sub a bunch of stuff in there though. You have a used one right?

I'm sure you can get the thermistor and vdr from moyers. They come together on a card by workman. Ill scan the sams in a few hours.

well i dont have another fly it has hv now but all the wax from the donut is out and the rubber cover is loose because no wax is left. i asked moyers about the cl90 one time and he had no idea what i meant but ill try again. and ill be looking for another flyback. i just missed one on ebay also.

If your calling moyers forget the cl90. Tell him you need the vdr thermistor pair. If the fly is working leave it alone. It may last forever like that.

ok ill do that about the pair if they have it. and the fly i wont change it but it may be a good idea to have a spare. i have a spare ctc16 clone fly but it is somewhat different.

That set is called "FARRELL", thats its name. Make sure you address it as such

Farrell????????????????????

nevermind

Yes, tvs used to have names to make them more classy. Remember its a hand crafted elegant piece of work made out of natural materials. You wouldnt give a robot made plastic and sheet metal flatscreen a name, just a number.

It came from a time when even poor people tried to dress nice/have dignity and it was EXPENSIVE.

Flat screens come from a time when poor people aspire to be and dress like prisoners, again only a number assigned.

Ok I have totally lost it,,way off topic

timmy, i sent you some info, did you get it?

ctc17, you have NOT lost it. One might say, were one so inclined to do so, "Right on."

ok pm sent

CTC17, I agree! Names have gone away due to corporate-establishment aspirations to be PC, no doubt. Even car models have been reduced to meaningless suffixes LX, CL, etc Gimme back Belair, Biscayne, Impala, etc!

I had a 16XL model GG643 in Scandinavian Modern but forget the name and it was HOT stuff, IMO

BTW Where can I find the names Zenith assigned? My childhood console needs to know its name.

Timmy, these are what you are looking for. The one on the left was a kit(missing the thermistor) and the other 2 are singles. PM me with your address and I'll send you them free of charge

Timmy, these are what you are looking for. The one on the left was a kit(missing the thermistor) and the other 2 are singles. PM me with your address and I'll send you them free of charge

hi, what you have there is the both, for the degauss and the chassis? if so what would you take for them? sorry i had to edit as i just looked at the pics and yes thats what they look like one big one and a small.

Yes, tvs used to have names to make them more classy. Remember its a hand crafted elegant piece of work made out of natural materials. You wouldnt give a robot made plastic and sheet metal flatscreen a name, just a number.

It came from a time when even poor people tried to dress nice/have dignity and it was EXPENSIVE.

Flat screens come from a time when poor people aspire to be and dress like prisoners, again only a number assigned.

Ok I have totally lost it,,way off topic

No, you haven't...Doncha sometimes wish we could go back to about 1953, an' Know what we Know NOW ?!?

Free, Timmy, free! No charge. Yes one thermistor and one VDR.

hi, what you have there is the both, for the degauss and the chassis? if so what would you take for them? sorry i had to edit as i just looked at the pics and yes thats what they look like one big one and a small.

When the thermistor goes open it automatically smokes the vdr because its driving all the current through vdr and degausing coil.
Glad you got the info and hope it helps. If you need anything else let me know.


I get the impression that a larger percentage of us who appreciate vintage things are aware of the huge ass brick wall the train that is this country is quickly approaching... .

Timmy, just to be on the safe side check that 6JE6 current draw...

well i will be checking that cathode currant being as the flyback has let most or all the wax out of the donut. it also had jumpers put in because of bad solder joints and 6 bad tubes so i have alittle while to go yet but ill get there. and there was a cap put in under the chassis to replace one thats in one of the cans but it was never clipped off of the can itself. the rest looks good and the chassis is extremly and overall the whole set looks like it was taken care of and with a new 21fj from 1982 it should work well.

heres the set notice how clean the chassis is, can see all colors of components without having to wipe away dirt.

Very nice set, my favorite style. Not to big. Tacking caps on the bottom of one that went open is common and I will admit I do it occasionally. Never had a problem.

take a look at the 2 other pics i just put up.

has anyone heard from don lindsly from out west where the bad wild fires were. i had talked to him awhile ago and all was good being he was 60 miles from the fires but it had since spread.

I recommend you change C731, C732 and C726 while you have the chassis. I have seen those short on several sets and they ALWAYS test bad. Use red drops not yellow Chinese trash.

These couple the grids of the. 6GU7s and are located between power resistors and the tube. They get baked to death

ok i wrote that down as having to be done

would those .01 caps be 400v or 600v.

would those .01 caps be 400v or 600v.

Either will work.

Also check all the solders in the are of the 6GU7s, gently rock the blueish power resistors in that area while looking for movement of the leads on the bottom of the board.

oh yes ive come across that befor with all these sets with bad solder joints. which it has now because wires were soldered from one tube to another and im sure there are many more. so what i do is ill go over everything but it takes awhile but i wont have to do it again or be surprised later. just like the maggie i have maybe at one point someone in there had bumped into the i think it may have been the sound take off coil and thought it was a bad joint but turned out to be that when it was hit it moved it so far the wire on the coil is thinner then hair and broke off and i used a magnafying glass to see it to repair.

Looking at the picture in entry # 29, the CRT label. I see RCA service purchased their CRT's from Channel Master.
I think by then, they were kind of "estranged" from the parent company.
I remember RCA service would milk every hour out of the CRT, before begrugingly replacing it. That is when the set was under contract.
Sears and others did the same thing.

how would you know its from channel master?

nevermind i had to use one of your posts to get you a message because it would not let me send a PM as your end is full and need to delete some. i just want to thank you and if i could return the favor somehow then give me a shout. thanks again timmy

Not sure how high your line voltage is but there is another (unused) primary tap on the power transformer if B+ and filament voltages are too high.

does anyone know the specs on the 4 diodes on the sound board in the ctc16x chassis? they call them sr201 up to sr204.

1 amp 600 volts.

would that be the same for all 4 diodes?

Yes.
Most people use 1N4007s
You could use1N4005-4007
www.diodes.com/datasheets/ds28002.pdf

yes i think the ones i have here are the 1n4007 and are rated 1a 600 volts. ok great and thank you dan.

yes i think the ones i have here are the 1n4007 and are rated 1a 600 volts. ok great and thank you dan.

4007 are 1000 volts, even better. Where the old ones shorted or something? I see them replaced in some of the sets I have but have never had to replace them myslef.

they test ok but just wanted to know what goes there because alot was burned in that area incase after getting it done and one fails i know what to put there.

ok i got the varistor and thermistor from mstation today but does it make much difference if the thermistor is 63 ohms cold where the original would be 100 ohms or more cold?

No. it should be fine. I used those in my other sets with no issues

ok they are going in,lol,lol and thanks again for these parts.

how would you know its from channel master?

Right under the U/L recognized logo there is a 1059, which is the EIA number for Channel Master. :yes:

oh, ok well i learned something new again,lol...

ok the rca new vista is done but i have one little problem when i turn it on its not tuned in like it was when i turned it off a minute earlier. but as it warms up about 40 seconds later perfect picture and sound and its like a tube in the tuner section of maybe IF section is taking longer then the others to heat up. i did sub a tube in the section just below the tuner i dont remember what section that is but is the first tube there, a 6jh6 i subbed to a 6bz6 and dont know if this is why but these sets come right on tuned and sound is there but this one is fuzzy sound and the picture is out of tune, then it comes in slowly and then its perfect. the section i subbed the tube has 1st, 2nd, and so on, i think its the IF section.

change the channel, then go right back see if the pic is normal then.

after its on for a moment and all is good ill change the channel then go back is good.

when the problem 1st shows up quickly change channels then right back and see if it's ok.

i had tried that in the beginning but no good so after about 40 seconds all is good but this is not right.

i think i may know whats going on here the thermistor i had put in is slow to warmup maybe because of the ratings as the rca should have a thermistor rating of 100 ohms or more cold and around 4 or less ohms hot. the one i put in measured 63 ohms cold and it states .47 hot so this has to be it. but about 35-40 seconds seems like a long time compared to my other sets about 15-20 seconds all on.

well its not the thermistor since i jumped it out and still the same thing.

Not the thermistor! A few ohm wont make that much difference if any. Probably that subbed tube in the tuner. Subs don't usually work the same as the original. I suggest you buy the right one and try it. It looks nice otherwise. what is exactly slow to warm up? Sound, CRT or both, just the tuner?? If the picture is slow, probably a weak CRT. Do you have full line voltage on it or on a variac?

I know exactly the issue timmy is talking about. I have several sets that do it, they come up with a blank raster then the sound and picture pop in a few seconds later. Or the set starts with the fine tuning way off then it fades in.

I have never bothered to look into it. It seems like a common issue because I have several sets that do it.

I know exactly the issue timmy is talking about. I have several sets that do it, they come up with a blank raster then the sound and picture pop in a few seconds later. Or the set starts with the fine tuning way off then it fades in.

I have never bothered to look into it. It seems like a common issue because I have several sets that do it.

yes your right that is exactly what its doing so im going to look into the video output tube and the tube for agc because if you turn the agc down everything fades and slowly turn it up and it will do the same thing. the 6jh6 is said to be an ok sub with the 6bz6.

does anyone know what an RCA 8 2v tube translates into. thanks.
ok i found out it was a 6gh8a...

I know exactly the issue timmy is talking about. I have several sets that do it, they come up with a blank raster then the sound and picture pop in a few seconds later. Or the set starts with the fine tuning way off then it fades in.

I have never bothered to look into it. It seems like a common issue because I have several sets that do it.

well heres one for you dan, i spoke to don lindsly and instructed me to check a few things and this tuner type problem is resolved so you can fix your sets that do the same thing. it was the second tube in the IF section in this case it was a 6gm6 but the kicker is the tube was new and tested excellent no gas at all but it took to long to come on and i also tried a used one that didnt work either so i put the sub in for the 6gm6 which is a 6we6 and it comes right on sound and picture, perfect. and all the sockets including the IF section sockets i soldered so its a weird thing but that sub tube did the trick.:D

Hmm interesting. Try another 6gm6 if you can, just because the tube is new doesnt mean it doesnt have grid leakage or a short that opens when it heats up to a point. I have run into several tubes that test good and cause problems.

Substitution is the best test for tubes.

Hmm interesting. Try another 6gm6 if you can, just because the tube is new doesnt mean it doesnt have grid leakage or a short that opens when it heats up to a point. I have run into several tubes that test good and cause problems.

Substitution is the best test for tubes. well i did try another 6gm6 and no good. cold or heated it made no difference nothing worked except the 6we6. unless there is maybe a resistor or cap within that circuit that is leaky or out of tolorance and the 6we6 while maybe alittle different in some why changed the needed value of what possibly might be wrong to the point of it correcting the problem. 6gm6 and 6we6 must have some small things that are not the same between the 2 because they both have different numbers. who knows except that it worked out fine.

Is there static and snow if you disconnect the antenna???

I have a 16 that had a open 150 ohm resistor that fed the first IF its plate voltage.
The set worked fine with no voltage on the first IF tube but kinda acted like you are talking about.

A radical sensitivity to different tubes would indicate a fault in the circuit.

Why dont you do a dc voltage measurement check on the first and second IF

with the 6gm6 in and turn it on there is no snow without the antenna until that part of the circuit warmed up for 40 seconds. i would agree at a radical sensitivity between 2 tubes and your probably right about something in that circuit that is at fault. however i put the whole set together and it plays great for now but i will keep an eye on things for now and if something gets funky then i guess ill be looking for the culprit, with of course my questions,lol,lol..... i forgot what that second tube was listed as but it was the second one.

The if is a bitch to work on, mostly because it has a plate soldered on the bottom and a cover on the top.
Working to your satisfaction is all that matters.
[I think we need a list of timmys working tvs

ok dan heres the list, and they all work, 1963 silvertone roundie
1964 rca color roundie am-fm phono
1965 magnavox roundie am-fm phono
1966 motorola 23 inch console
1965 or 66 rca new vista
1947 fada b&w

Hey Timmy,

If you ever get down to Lancaster, I will trade you something interesting for that Motorola 23". I had one, a TS914Y that I lost in the early 80's
Dave