This is an ILO DTV 2784, built 2006, by Orion. On turn-on it has a slow start, then displays a shrunken picture with a fold and white line fully across horizontally in the center of the screen. The picture then fills out vertically almost all the way, leaving black bands top and bottom, with the white line and fold in the center of the screen. I found the same problem described on line with the suggestion that replacing all electrolytics in the vertical output section cured the problem for at least two who posted. It was also noted that R411, 5.6 ohms/2 watts, had drifted way high and should be replaced.

R411 is the larger resistor circled below. With one leg out of circuit it tests 29.5 ohms. It's kind of scorched but seems to read black-white-gold-gold-brown. That would be 0-9-x.1-blank-1%, or a 0.9 ohm 1% resistor? Does that make any sense or am I reading it wrong?
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w204/wrnewton/iloDTV2784Resistor.jpg

I will take a wild guess that it's 47 Ohms and a one Watt fusible resistor. Those resistors with dull gray backgrounds are usually fusible. The value, well I can't really see the color in the picture. Get a closeup and maybe we can guess the colors.

0.9 is a funny value, as there's no need to be so precise in a fusible resistor off a scan diode like that. My guess is that the heat has changed the colors, and it's a 5.6 @ 2 watts, and is now high. I'd replace it, but be sure the schematic is correct for that set. If you can't verify, and do replace it with what is believed to be correct at 5.6, be sure to measure that line to see that it's not high at the B+ pin of the vertical output IC. Just to mention; the "slow turn-on" usually means a power supply problem, which would also affect the vertical as you're saying. Check the B+ at the B+ pin on the flyback, and if it's low, you may not have a vertical problem after all. Usually the B+ voltage is shown as "+130 or +135" on the board under the flyback, but if not, you can know what the B+ is supposed to be, by which regulator IC is in the set. (STR-30130=130v; STR-30135=135v, etc). If the regulator is another kind which doesn't tell the output voltage, you can look up the IC in the NTE or SK cross reference and it will tell.

Charles

Appreciate the info. I have no schematic for this and I understand they are hard to come by for these WallyWorld special sets. I've checked more on line and have a few more components to test. I'm going to check all resistors and diodes in the power supply and vertical sections. I can't find the voltage regulator! I've looked up on line every solid state device in the PS area and don't find it. I understand some sets don't even have one? Maybe it's there and I'm ignoring it. I have the board out of the TV for easier component checking. I'm a tube era guy and don't usually get involved too much with sand-based stuff but decided to dive in, and thank anyone for any further advice.

The voltage regulator may not be a separate IC; it could be a zener diode in a feedback circuit or something. You really need a diagram.

If that resistor has got very hot, its markings may have changed color, and "neutral" colors as you described (black, white, brown,etc.) are what I have seen from overheated film power resistors. If you are confident that it is the same R411 described by others, then try a 5.6 ohm 2W replacement (in addition to the capacitors) and see what you get.

I ordered a whole bunch of 'lytics for the vertical and power supply stages and three of the 5.6 ohm / 2 watt fusibles (in case I fry one.) I thought about getting a higher wattage but read that the whole idea behind fusible resistors is for them to be able to blow when required, and if you go higher wattage they may not, which makes sense. I checked tons of diodes and resistors on the board until going practically blind: some of those diodes are so teeny you can hardly see them! :nerd: A couple of diodes were inconclusive but it was probably because of other components in circuit with them. I kept a list of items checked as I went. Tough flying blind with no schematic. Also tough finding (on Mouser) a 470 mfd.@200 volt 'lytic, the main filter. They had the snap-in kind but I wasn't sure if I could make that fit. I settled for a 330@200 with regular radial leads. A 470@160 was available but I went for the voltage on the one in the set. Now this goes back on the bench for a while to await the shipment.

It's kind of scorched but seems to read black-white-gold-gold-brown.

The colors in the burned resistor are the typically faded colors found in the predicted, by assumed value, Green-Blue-Gold-Gold resistor.

One trick to read the colors after you have removed the overheated resistor is to turn it so that the least-overheated side is up, and then gently scrape off the burnt paint with a single edge razor blade until you just start to see the base color. Look at that color junction with a magnifying glass under an incandescent lamp.

This works just often enough to make this test worth while.

James

James, I tried your trick, put a really strong light on it and came up with the same colors as before: black-white-gold-gold-brown. Funny that the same model set would have a widely different value resistor in that spot. When I get my caps I'll try it with this original resistor and check B+. I have nothing to tell me what B+ should be but would it be between 120 to 150v?

I got the caps and spent a couple of hours in 90F heat in the shop changing them out. I made it worse! :worried: I still have the crazy split raster with the bright horizontal line in the middle, raster not full horizontally or vertically, but now no video but I still have sound. :tears: I gave up for today but will check over again. I was very careful orienting the 'lytics the right way with respect to positive/negative. I also changed the big 'lytic in the power supply. I'll have to post a picture of the screen. It just occurred to me of possibly why there's no video, at least. :scratch2: Probably check more mañana.

You have run into one of the pitfalls of 'recapping' a complex unit. It's a lot to expect that you won't make a single error; there is bound to be a bad solder joint or misconnected part.

My own philosophy is that if it isn't broken, don't repair it. There are exceptions of course, just as in any 'rule'. So you must retrace your steps and see where you may have gone wrong. Assuming, of course, there is a trail to see what was there before.

Well, I finally got this ironed out! :banana:

Backing up a bit: when I first opened the set I searched on line with the model number and found a blog where a poster described the exact same symptoms. He checked the electrolytics in the vertical section and found them all lower in value than marked. He replaced them all and the resistor which was the subject of my post; his resistor had gone high. He also stated that the board trace from pin 7 of the vertical IC was lifted and open and he repaired that. Changing all the caps, the resistor, and repairing the trace fixed his set.

Then on the same blog another poster stated that his set had the same symptoms, including the lifted trace, and he did everything the first poster had done and fixed his set, too. That's why I ordered the parts that I did.

This morning I spent about two hours on the board. I knew that I had installed all the electrolytics right as I triple checked each one off of a list and made very sure that they were oriented right. As it turned out all the 'lytics in this set face the same direction WRT polarity.

Then I checked the ribbon cables from the main board up to the CRT socket board. Sure enough, one wire did not have continuity. I repaired that. Then I went to inspect pin 7 of the vertical IC. I could ring out every other pin on that IC to its first connection point except 7. It took a magnifying glass to follow the tiny trace around and about but finally found where it terminated, and it rang true, also: nothing to fix there.

Next using clips I hung the 6 ohm / 2 watt resistor that Mouser sent me across the famous inscrutable one and turned on the set. It worked! The parallel combination of old and new resistors was about 4.9 ohms, right in the ballpark of 6. So I pulled the old and installed the new resistor.

I have a digital OTA converter in the shop for testing TVs and hooked this up with rabbit ears to the set and let it cook for a couple of hours. Everything seemed fine, good picture and sound. There is a reflection on the screen in the pix below and the lines are just interference between the digital camera and TV scanning. Not bad for a set I got for free!

Thank you all for your suggestions!

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w204/wrnewton/ILOpix005.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w204/wrnewton/ILOpix2014.jpg

Good work! I love to see electronic devices brought back to life, even basic sets like this. BTW, it has the "DTV" logo (SDTV in this case, I think), so this set should tune digital signals without the external tuner. Try it!

I will try that. It will have to be with the set front buttons as I don't have the remote for it. I'll have to get a universal remote. In one of the articles they told the code and I wrote it on my notes; I think it's one of the Orion codes, which would make sense.

Follow up: the Magnavox set in the bedroom died this afternoon and I put this ILO set in there. Sure enough, an Orion code was needed for the Comcast remote. Sure glad I had this set to sub in!