I have a Zenith All-Channel console TV from the mid-60s (Model 8320, chassis 25MC36). It originally came from my grandma's house, but I got it almost two years ago when we cleared out her house to get it ready to sell.

Aside from some picture quality issues, it turned on fine until after I brought it home. The TV simply wouldn't turn on. The vacuum tubes didn't light up, nor did I hear any kind of hum from the TV. There were a few times I got it to turn on, but over the last year, I haven't had any luck.

My concern is that maybe something in the TV got damaged from being bumped around while transporting it home. Interestingly enough, though, I used to have a GE Porta-color that had the same exact problem. Has anyone else experienced this with these old tube TVs, and if so, what could be the problem?

Thanks in advance.

bad cord, tripped circuit breaker, fuse, varistor, power switch. Try the simple things first.

bad cord, tripped circuit breaker, fuse, varistor, power switch. Try the simple things first.

I don't think I have a problem with my circuit breaker.

A bad power switch is a possibility. The power switch acted a little funny: the TV would be off in the "on" position, and vice versa. Still, since I knew this, I made a point to keep the switch in the position that worked (and kept the TV unplugged when not in use), but I still developed this problem. The TV would work one minute, I'd unplug it - leaving the switch completely untouched - I'd plug it back in later, and nothing would happen.

A bad cord is definitely a possibility. It's not really frayed, but it is a bit twisted in some places.

I don't know anything about varsitors, sadly :P

I have some pictures of the power cord and the inside of the console if it helps. One thing in particular that I found interesting was a little plastic cap that was rolling around inside (the last picture).

Do you have a Multi-meter? You need to verify the primary side. Read across the A/C input plug on the back of the chassis. With the switch on, you should see a small resistance about a couple of Ohms. I'd bet something is open. The primary side is easy to check for continuity. That model chassis may have two terminal pins on the topside where the switch connects. Maybe some wires came loose in transport. Now would be a good time to look and verify that on/off switch too!

I have an Admiral that the switch was working and then smoke started ti billow out along with some arcing. The power switch just gave out. After replacement, no more issues. Jump the on/off switch and try that.

where in the SE are you?

where in the SE are you?Fayetteville, GA - near Atlanta.

ok a bit too far, for me I do get up to Columbus GA now and then, but that is still a good 60 miles at least IIRC.

I agree its prob a switch/breaker or open thermistor. All easy fixes, but there maybe a reason for the failure, which would be shorted filter caps. Hopefully someone here is a bit closer can get with you and check it out. It could be a very siimple problem (like the cord). Zeniths were the best built sets and the one you have is built like a tank.

actually the fact that the filaments are not lighting up means it pretty much has to be the switch or plug. a simple resistance reading of the plug would confirm its open. you could then manipulate the plug (the prongs and the connection at the set) and also jump the switch with a simple jumper from radio shack (just a wire and some clips). all unpluged of course you just want to see if you can get conitinuity across the primary of the transformer. the breaker and the thermistor are on the secondary not associated with the filament windings so I am pretty sure its got to be the switch

Thank you everyone for the information :) I will have to check the cord/plug to see if there's a problem with it.

I have a combo with that chassis and I though it used fuses...I thought breakers were and rca thing. hmmmm, ill have to dig the service book out on it later and look.

Is it a round or rectangular tube set?

I have a combo with that chassis and I though it used fuses...I thought breakers were and rca thing. hmmmm, ill have to dig the service book out on it later and look.

Is it a round or rectangular tube set?

Rectangular.

OK, it does have a breaker but its on the secondary, so like everyone else says cord or power switch.

I believe this was Zeniths first rectangular set, It wasn't cheap! I also feel these are some of the most complicated things ever built. One really has to admire how much work went into this to build it.

It can produce a decent picture, the picture on mine is ok and I have done little to no work on it. Parts can still be found too.

just checked does not seem to have any fuse or breaker in the primary of the power trans, so all you need to set get a digital multimeter set to ohms, connect test leadt to the the plug pronges and see if its open, should be just a few ohms. if you dont have a DMM there are lots of other ways to check for continuity, just a flashlight bulb and some wire are all you really need, you just need to see if its open, then figure out if its the switch, line cord, or interlock connection.

if its open at the end of the plug, check again at the interlock, if still open jump the switch on the back of the volume control (again no power everything is unpluged). if that does not do it then you may have a open connection somewhere in that part of the circuit. I just recently had a TV that had a bad solder joint right at the interlock. wiggling the plug and the connection at the interlock generally show this up. Also line cords often open up right at the plug due to pulling and bending that will break the wires inside the insulation.

did not see CTC-17s post as I was typing in my rather long winded post, so we both see the same deal, no fuse no breaker in primary to go bad.

Thank you very much for the information, everyone :)

Here's an update on the situation. I used a fuse tester on both the cord and the TV separately. Separately, the tester indicated a complete circuit on both things. When I put them together, though, it took a little manipulating of the power cable to get a green light (a complete circuit). Now, here's where things get a little more interesting. I plug in the TV, and sure enough, I do see the channel numbers glowing, but it doesn't seem like the TV is even trying to turn on. I don't hear any humming or see any picture. Very interesting.

The set still has value even if it does not work, but it will take a vintage TV person to repair it and use it. You do run a risk of damage to the set by trying it out this way, as it really should be looked at by someone that has knowledge of this type of electronic gear. So you best be would be to see if you can sell it or have a member here that it close to you check it out and give you some advise on how to proceed.

it should take about 30 seconds for the tube to warm up. there is of course the posssibility that there is another problem. While frequently the mid 60 zeniths will work, there are also times where there is a problem. If it does not make any sound or picture and the tubes are glowing in the back (peek thru the holes in the back cover and see if you see a bunch of orange glowing dots, those are the vacuum tubes) after 30 seconds then you have a bigger problem. You should not continue after 30 seconds of testing with no results.

one last thing you can try is pushing the red circuit breaker after you have the power cord worked out. If you want I can talk you thru it, pm me if you want to do that, its easier than a lot of back and forth typing :)