A friend gave me this set a while ago and I've been slowly working on between other projects.

At first, I wasn't even sure I'd bother making the attempt :scratch2:

It's a little older than any set I've worked on before, the speaker is missing, but worst of all, check out the insides :tears:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7039/7074332093_31aeb286f4_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7074332093/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/7074329513_a2bd0981bf_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7074329513/)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7103/6928248342_4e94022e8a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6928248342/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7268/7074331257_4af6dc116c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7074331257/)

Time to get out the Naval Jelly!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6928248702_9138e7aef3_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6928248702/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/6928248960_4bd7521ca6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6928248960/)

Here's what I found when I got it up on the workbench.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6928969208_94e75eb194_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6928969208/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7279/7075047405_ce35bf1a89_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7075047405/)

No dead critters or nests, but plenty of rust. Worst I've ever seen.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7251/6928969772_ec6ced9e3a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6928969772/) http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5459/7075047809_0ea8466a38_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7075047809/)

I did a little research and discovered this set is essentially identical to a Radiola 18 - one of the early AC powered sets.
The tube lineup is 80, 26x4, 27 and 71A.

The chassis with the power supply is known as the "Socket Power Unit" or SPU. Nice of them to include and option for 105 / 125 VAC primary operation. So I should be able to run it off modern line voltage levels.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7073/7075263801_95aa7df76f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7075263801/)

The mounting screws for the SPU are so rusty I had to snap them off. Not so bad on the other chassis.
Now I can finally get a look underneath.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7245/6929184738_778351fe8a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6929184738/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7081/7075262399_b3317b890a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7075262399/)

I had to cut away a sheet of asbestos to get into the SPU :yuck:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5279/7075264439_ffe7cdcd84_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7075264439/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/7075264961_5a536fc50b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7075264961/)

That's actually pretty decent condition for a radio of that era. It may look bad, but it's mostly just looks.

There's a lot of dirt, but the wood is in good shape. Scrub it down and hit it with some Howard's, and you should be good to go. The rust on the chassis seems mostly superficial, and as for the wiring, a lot of it still seems reasonably intact, so you're better off than you would be if it were the '30s rubber-covered stuff. And perhaps most importantly, it doesn't look like anybody has screwed with it too much... I see a few repairs, but not the decades' worth of hack-jobs that you'd usually find.

Very nice cable lacing. Wonder if there's any pot metal issues with the tuning condenser.

Boy, that's a project. They kept it going at least through the thirties per the ST type tubes that replaced the globes along the way. That's one hulking rheostat, too; big wattage. I think the frame of that condenser is steel so should be OK; the pulley may be potmetal but it looks good from my house.

That's actually pretty decent condition for a radio of that era. It may look bad, but it's mostly just looks.

There's a lot of dirt, but the wood is in good shape. Scrub it down and hit it with some Howard's, and you should be good to go. The rust on the chassis seems mostly superficial, and as for the wiring, a lot of it still seems reasonably intact, so you're better off than you would be if it were the '30s rubber-covered stuff. And perhaps most importantly, it doesn't look like anybody has screwed with it too much... I see a few repairs, but not the decades' worth of hack-jobs that you'd usually find.

I tried that, but due to the damp environment it was stored in, a lot of the old finish had flaked off. What was left was barely hanging on. So I ended up refinishing it as you'll see shortly.

The wiring is indeed in very good condition.

Very nice cable lacing. Wonder if there's any pot metal issues with the tuning condenser.

Once I cleaned and lubed it, it starting turning freely :D.

Boy, that's a project. They kept it going at least through the thirties per the ST type tubes that replaced the globes along the way. That's one hulking rheostat, too; big wattage. I think the frame of that condenser is steel so should be OK; the pulley may be potmetal but it looks good from my house.

The rheostat is open, but I hear that's a common problem. I put a little back mark where the break is I think I can bridge it with a little gold plated copper foil.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7056/7077857539_041b348ee2_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7077857539/)

As for the power transformer, it's good.
So are all the filter chokes and power resistors :banana:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/6929514710_e8cb174633_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6929514710/)

All the caps are very leaky though.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6929514568_43d618ca6c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6929514568/)

As for the cabinet, I cleaned it off with GoJo and tried to revive the original finish. However, in many areas it was already down to bare wood and what finish was left was faking off. Also the veneer was separating and the joints had opened up. Seems like it was stored in a damp environment for a long time.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5451/6931805774_17f31f6c83_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6931805774/)

So I made the decision to refinish it. Here it is after repairs, stripping, grain filling and sanding sealer.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5445/6931806028_1803e4ccbc_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6931806028/)

I went with medium walnut toner lacquer on the panels and van dyke walnut on the trim.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7137/6931806760_8b7163d68d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6931806760/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7107/7077884187_5202692cf2_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7077884187/)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/6931807242_412db5a31e_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6931807242/)

The only good original surface was under the lid with a very nice label. I carefully cleaned it and avoided getting any stripper or toner lacquer on it.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7106/6931852944_9b106ab104_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6931852944/)

Time to tackle that rust. It's tempting to just chuck the whole chassis in an electroylsis bath, but instead I tackled a section at a time with rust stripper.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/7078616441_91126b9078_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7078616441/)


A wire brush and 100 grit sandpaper help.
Later I graduated to using a Dremel tool with abrasive bits.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7235/6932541244_c4bb1b3e9e_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6932541244/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/7078617069_55a57ff470_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7078617069/)

I very carefully pried up the metal tabs holding the filter choke in place and removed it. It's much easier to work on now :)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/6932554602_4a7360f921_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6932554602/)

By and by the rust is fading away.
Now that's some deep pitting!
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5118/6932554804_fc0af48be7_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6932554804/)

What a job. You might think of auto glazing compound in a tube, spread on, dry, sand, to fill the pits before painting, once they're rustproofed. Auto parts stores.

Good call. I picked up some Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty and it's working quite well.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7137/7080573329_1ec73fffed_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7080573329/)

I also discovered the rust comes back quick on the raw steel if I don't slap some primer on it.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7136/6934511216_e0315d01b6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6934511216/)

I was able to cutoff the remains of the rusty chassis screws and nuts using a Dremel tool with metal cutting discs.
Like a hot knife through butter :)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6934533978_b7b7cf8718_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6934533978/)

Great work so far. I've seen plenty of Radiola 18s and most of them worked, so your Brunswick should be a pretty dependable set. I see yours is missing the lamp cover, a common problem. Do you have any idea what the Brunswick lamp cover looked like?

If you've never listened to a 20s set before, you'll be surprised. Sensitivity is very nice, as long as you have a nice long antenna and a good ground. About the only thing you'll not hear is any bass. But then you'll know why so many people were impressed with the massive booming bass of the console models that followed in the coming years.

Yes, it's just a basic rounded brass hood like the Radiola 17/18.
I figure I can replicate one easily by cutting up a brass ball like these: www.grandbrass.com/catalog.cfm?category=Brass and Finished Balls&subcategory=Two Piece Balls

http://www.radiomuseum.org/images/radio/brunswick_balke/5kr_987766.jpg

No, I haven't heard a radio from this era in person. Just some clips on YouTube.

Does your tuning cap rotate freely? It looks like the frame is NOT pot metal.

I suspended restoration of a GE model H 51 (similar to Radiola 80) with a frozen cap due to pot metal expansion.

Does your tuning cap rotate freely? It looks like the frame is NOT pot metal.

I suspended restoration of a GE model H 51 (similar to Radiola 80) with a frozen cap due to pot metal expansion.

That's a shame. I like that cabinet on the H51.

Yes, it does turn freely. It was quite stiff at first, but I gradually worked in some oil and grease.
The pulleys may be pot metal, but I don't think the rest is.

What are those two metal pins that protrude from the back of the PS chassis? I initially thought they were toggle switches, but it appears that only one wire runs to each of them.

Those are the connectors either for the antenna or speaker... probably the speaker, judging by their location.

What you're actually seeing are pin plugs sticking out of the chassis mounted jacks... the plugs would've originally been attached to the ends of the speaker leads, but for some inexplicable reason somebody cut off the wires and left the plugs attached, rather than just unplugging them from the jacks.

Yes, those are the speaker terminals. They puzzled me for a while too until I found a copy of the service info. The handful of rotted wiring I thought was for the speaker I showed in an earlier photo was actually an antenna.

Speaking of speakers. I got lucky and found a nice Brunswick Model A on ebay :banana: As far as I know, it's the speaker that originally went with the 5KR.
Coincidentally, this speaker was missing the plug pins. I was able to salvage them from 5KR chassis and attach new wires.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7086/7082919489_e3dbc589e1_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7082919489/)

It has a handy access port on the back. A little tug in the finger holes on the bottom and it pops right off.
I hooked it up to a function generator and it seems to work very well :music:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7048/7082905847_106b73df84_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7082905847/)

The cone is in excellent condition.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7104/6936831434_8ef1fd4c19_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6936831434/)

I like the style of that speaker, and in such good shape.

I like it too. I found some photos online of other sets which confirm the finish is correct. I'd have thought the radio and speaker would be a closer match.
http://byemylife.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/brunswick.jpg.w300h261.jpg


I also have an RCA 100A I could use with this radio, but I like the Model A a lot better. The speaker inside appears to be the same in both.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5311/7087929799_a6819c4bef_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7087929799/) http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5312/6941858002_b631b2c474_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6941858002/)

That's also a nice Radiola speaker with original grillcloth. I installed some window screen in front of mine to prevent an "accident".

BTW, have you tried either of those UHF set-top antennas on DTV? That is one I haven't experimented with.

That's also a nice Radiola speaker with original grillcloth. I installed some window screen in front of mine to prevent an "accident".

BTW, have you tried either of those UHF set-top antennas on DTV? That is one I haven't experimented with.


I'm currently using a vintage VHF antenna with my DTV box. Never tried one of the UHF models either.

Almost ready for some new brown paint.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/6943203094_cff9259032_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6943203094/)

Time to give to the other chassis some attention. It has far less rust on it :)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7222/6943202470_00d37477c1_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6943202470/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/6943202660_bee955b9c8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6943202660/)

The whole variable cap and drive comes off as a single unit. Very handy!
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5463/7089273255_55e2f7e97f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7089273255/)

Built like a tank.

It sure is :yes:
I ran out to get some more rust remover and was surprised to get the 3rd degree. I had to produce photo ID, fill out a log book entry and sign it. I noticed other entries in the log seemed to be for roto-rooters :rolleyes:

While I wait for more rust to dissolve, I took a look at the filter block.

There are 3 capacitors and a choke in here potted in wax I think.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5468/7089577517_cd61eefcdd_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7089577517/)

Yep, it's probably beeswax. Very easy to melt out with a heat gun on low and smells rather nice. A nice change from the tar block I usually encounter.

My goal is to extracate the three caps without disturbing the choke.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5119/7089577697_e86bda8be1_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7089577697/)

I heated the cap side and drained out most of the wax but the caps were still wedged it very tight.
A corkscrew finally did the trick. The other two sections were then easily removed.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5445/7089577839_06fa7a4676_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7089577839/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7275/7089578051_47b613e094_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7089578051/)

I've got this same Brunswick. It has several original tubes.

The speaker back is missing, along with the little tuning light cover.

Yours will be beautiful when you are finished.

very cool, i love projects like that...still intact and pretty complete, looks horrible, not not as bad as ud think...love the progress

Dirt, rust, mildew even asbestos - it's got it all :D

I was able to repair the volume control by using a little shim to bridge the break.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7118/7110936247_1f63399663_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7110936247/)

When I first tested the 71A tube, it tested very good. A few days later it was totally dead. I was getting set to toss it and start shopping for a replacement when it occurred to me to try touching up the pin contacts.
So I carefully unsoldered the base pins, removed the already loose base, tinned the wires, reattached the base and soldered the pins. Sure enough, the tube came back to life :banana:

I then dug into my box of dead tubes and resurrected more tubes including some blue Arcturus and a UX280 :)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8004/7110936531_3fe98e3b0b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7110936531/)

Yeah many times those dead old tubes can be revived.
I bought a working Majestic radio off the bay awhile back but when I received it the seller had pulled two good 45s and stuffed two duds in the set, someone had even written "DUD" on the glass with a sharpie, but I got the last laugh as I resoldered the filament pins on one 45 and it went from dead to a strong testing globe 45, I've got it in my Atwater Kent 60 now.
The other 45 has a good filament but has no emission so I'll try working on the grid and plate pins.
I also saved a globe 71A with a very loose base and intermittent filament. Now I just can't toss an old tube anymore.

I can't toss them either: even if they don't come back to life I (pack rat that I am) always think I can use the base for a coil form or a connecting plug or adapter, or...

I also have a 01A tube with a broken off grid lead. I can see the little wire flopping around inside. If I can just weld it back on....

I finished rebuilding the filter cap.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8011/7115089339_cb4740d504_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7115089339/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8149/7116669031_1004985f63_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7116669031/)

I also painted the filter choke. It's not quite right so I'll try another color. Something a little darker.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/7119186867_aef392fa9a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7119186867/)

When I tried testing this type 26 tube, I found dead short between the plate and filament. I pulled off the base to investigate and found the plate lead wrapped around the other 3 :nono:

I untwisted it and reattached the base. Success!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8156/7123377403_e41c33256c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7123377403/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7128/7123377385_ddf0db538c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7123377385/)

When I tried testing this type 26 tube, I found dead short between the plate and filament. I pulled off the base to investigate and found the plate lead wrapped around the other 3 :nono:

I untwisted it and reattached the base. Success!
Dang. That's a first for me. Somebody musta tried to unscrew the tube. :eek:

Dang. That's a first for me. Somebody musta tried to unscrew the tube. :eek:

LOL - Maybe :)

Removing the RF coil assembly is fairly easy and really opens up the chassis.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7046/6977743126_da1489c1b4_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6977743126/)

The 0.5 uF caps in the box are leaky, but all the coils and small (mica?) caps test OK.
Grid leak resistor is a little high at 7M so I replaced it with 4.7M.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7235/7129780263_d5de9aec7d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7129780263/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7106/6983695728_71364372a0_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6983695728/)

The cap box was easy to unmount and unstuff.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/6983695812_971c6eefe7_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6983695812/)

Dang. That's a first for me. Somebody musta tried to unscrew the tube. :eek:

You didn't happen to but it from the user TubeTwister did you? LOL.

You didn't happen to but it from the user TubeTwister did you? LOL.
LOL - no it came with the set.

Here are the news caps for the tuner chassis filter.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7136/6984969936_bc014a6050_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6984969936/)

The SPU is finally rust free :)
I switched to some Rustoleum Leather Brown paint. It's pretty darn close to the original but too glossy. I'll knock it down with a satin clear coat.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8164/6993513334_1d4f01a250_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6993513334/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8165/7133291165_67184df194_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7133291165/)

Superb job thus far, Definitely a RCA Radiola 18 chassis. Beautiful sets.

Thanks! I thought I was just about done with the painting when the final coat on the chassis crazed. When they say to wait 48 hours they mean it!
I only waited about 36 plus it was down in the 50s up in the attic where I do my spraying.

Oh well, I'll sand it down and try again. Then I can finally start putting it back together.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7215/7192189154_77c85edd12_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7192189154/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7217/7225576454_1f71737d2b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7225576454/)

just awesome job on restore, I always wondered if this was an RCA clone, rarer tho..

That set will work for many years afterwards. a lot of sets have been parted out to scrounge for some money.

The first modern sets, battery sets w/ power supply are involved.

:thmbsp::thmbsp::banana:

I'm finally done painting the SPU chassis and can start the re-assembly!
It took longer than I expected, but I'm happy with the results :)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8022/7266189398_7769a9f446_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7266189398/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8006/7266188546_5e2149aabe_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7266188546/)

I finished reassembling the SPU chassis and am happy to announce that it actually seems to work properly :)
I'll be installing a reproduction cloth power cord. Just a bit more work left on the receiver chassis.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7220/7292404120_9d52c087fd_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7292404120/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7086/7292350576_6cc1140cd9_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7292350576/)

Boy, that's pretty. And look at that big honkin' globe 80. I've got a couple of them.

Thanks. Unfortunately, this 80 is a bit gassy and on it's last legs. Prices have really gone through the roof on globe tubes lately.
I'm tempted to throw a couple diodes and a dropping resistor underneath rather than put an ST 80 in there.

Wanna do another one? That one is beautiful. Mine has its original UX-280 in it. Has the little 'B' etched in the base.

Wanna do another one? That one is beautiful. Mine has its original UX-280 in it. Has the little 'B' etched in the base.

LOL - Not anytime soon. This one has taken much longer than I expected with all the rust removal and painting.
I hope to have it running in a few days.

What does the 'B' in the base mean - Brunswick ?

You could do it with diodes and just leave the old '80 in there lit up for show.

Any concern about the B+ coming up immediately when it's turned on ?
For that matter, has anyone come across a solid state circuit that mimics a slow B+ rise like a real 80 would produce ?

Meanwhile, work continues on the tuner chassis.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8002/7306263956_a8bcd3a4d8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7306263956/)

I dont think it would be an issue to have it come up immediately. Someone may have an idea on how to do it

Put a CL-90 inrush current limiter right after the "on" switch. Makes it easy on tube filaments and it ramps up to line voltage slowly over about 20 seconds.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70181362

Any concern about the B+ coming up immediately when it's turned on ?

It shouldn't be an issue since all the tubes (except the '27) are direct-filament types and will load the B supply as fast (or faster) than the '80 can warm up.

Yes. But the CL-90 will give the filaments a soft start in their old age (!)

Not a bad idea. Especially considering a set of four NOS globe 26s just sold for $222.50! http://www.ebay.com/itm/261027170666

I recently picked up another set of escutcheons and knobs. The originals with the dark patina are on the right.
Which do you think I should use ?
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8001/7168396769_e287939e64_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7168396769/)

You also have a third choice. Hardboil two eggs (yes! or boil three and use one for tuna salad for lunch.) Dice them in small pieces and put in a tight-sealing container. Put your shiny copper pieces into the container up on blocks, etc., so they aren't touching the eggs but are in the eggy H2S atmosphere (phew!) Check the next day for the patina. Leave another day if required. Might have to re-egg. Afterwards wash pieces, might want to lightly steel wool highlights, lacquer. Good-bye old egg parts. It's how I got patina on a too-shiny escutcheon on this radio:
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w204/wrnewton/RCA%20Victor%2028T/Finished002enlarged.jpg

I'd go with the new ones, personally. The new ones look patinated, but the old ones just look beat up and crappy... I mean, they look like they were mistreated and tossed into a barn for 50 years, whereas the rest of the radio doesn't look like that anymore, so to me the old corroded parts would look very much out of place.

And anyway, even if you think the new ones are too shiny, as long as they're not coated with anything then they'll tarnish over time and start to take on more of the 'antique' dark look.

Thanks for the advice. I just might try that egg trick.
Here's a closeup of one of the new pieces. It looks to me like someone did use an abrasive pad on it.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7085/7171488293_f1c97aabc8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7171488293/)

Here's the set with all the new trim installed.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8152/7356702796_4a7315bfdd_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7356702796/)

I'm just about done restoring the receiver chassis.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7076/7182434607_3c2fb440dc_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7182434607/)

While working on it, I discovered this little "gimmick" coil that had been clipped out of the circuit.
It's shown in the wiring diagram but not the schematic. I'm going to wire it back in and see what effect it has.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7073/7367667080_c1f46db328_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7367667080/)

It's finally time for the first power up!
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5340/7184697829_acac3f824d_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7184697829/)

First signs of life :)
I'm able to tune around the dial and pick up a few stations but only weakly. Also, the volume control has no effect. Neither does moving around the antenna.
Further investigation revealed that pulling out the 1st #26 tube also had no effect. So clearly no signal is coming through from the antenna.
Hopefully, I just made a wiring error on that tube socket or RF coil.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7225/7184697507_49018511c9_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7184697507/)

At least, NO SMOKE!!!

With a TRF you can move the antenna wire down to the second tube, to the third, and so on. Signal will be weaker and selectivity less but the relative signal strength should point to a problem stage.

Thanks for the tip. I found the fault at the grid of the 2nd stage. That bare wire should be soldered to the coil lug next to it :o
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5341/7185567303_e2f48c34c5_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7185567303/)

I made the repair and fired it up again. It's much louder now and the volume control definitely has an effect.
I can't cut the volume down to zero for strong local stations though.
Also if I turn the volume up loud, the set starts oscillating then cuts out altogether.

I've never operated a set like this before so I'm not sure if that's normal or I should keep tinkering.
There's an RF compensating I can fiddle with and I could replace the original caps on the RF coils and detector with modern micas :scratch2:

My radio volume won't reduce to zero, either. But, it needs to be restored, so I dont go by anything mine does.

That was often a problem on sets of this era, no AVC, so some had a local/distance switch on them to introduce more resistance or by some other way attenuate the signal coming in.

Edit: also, I recall that a good ground is essential on a radio of this type: the volume control can't "short to ground" at the bottom if there is no ground connection. Also, do you have this file? good info on how to stop the squealing, etc. and it says the set doesn't like a long antenna.

http://www.fyrbotlz.com/files/Radiola_18.pdf

And another (you probably already have)

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/references/Articles/Singles/Radiola18-2.htm

Thanks for the info. Adjusting the compensator capacitor and using a ground made a big difference.
I'm just using the ground in an AC outlet and I bet a "real" ground would work even better. The antenna is only 3' long and pulling in all the local stations well.

That's great. See how it does late night picking up DX. Might need another 10 ft. of wire. Folks used to hook onto the window screen for an antenna.

I installed a single wire antenna that stretches east to west across the interior of my attic. I also have a TV antenna, and rotor up there. Cant use it for much else. Roof is rather low.

My Fairbanks Morse will pick up alot of stations when I use this wire as the antenna.

As a kid I had a workshop in the back yard back home and wires up in the air stretching from tree to tree. Now over the past dozen years or so I was collecting antique antenna insulators so a few years back decided to put up a long wire as in days of yore. Used two ribbed glass insulators and #12 black plastic insulated stranded copper. Stretches from the top of the chimney which is about 30 ft. high and runs 60 ft. out to a 20 ft. high pole at the back of the garage/shop. I have lead ins at both ends for use in shop or house. It yanks a lot of juice out of the ether.

I found this stuff called "Liver of Sulphur" at a local Dick Blick art supply store. It's formulated to darken copper.
I first gave it a try on some pennies. The first attempt with a dirty penny came out splotchy. The second was polished with Noxon first and it came out great. I'll polish up that trim piece next and try it for real.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8024/7411079804_1c59af6725_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7411079804/) http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5198/7411080156_6490ea24f6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7411080156/)

I never thought to look in an art supply store for liver of sulfur, which is why I went the boiled egg route. Making a note to check at Michaels locally. Another way is to hang the piece on a tree branch and wait for pollution to do it, if you've got lots of time.

It's just a few dollars and you mix it one tablespoon to one cup of water so a little bottle will darken a whole lot of copper.

I discovered a few things while experimenting last night.

First, it works great on very clean copper. Any contaminants make it splotchy.

Second, liver of sulphur doesn't work on brass - only copper.

Third, I was wrong about my trim pieces. They're not brass plated copper - they're copper plated brass! I don't doubt they did this to get the nice dark brown surface possible with liver of sulphur.

Unfortunately, some of that copper plating is gone do to over polishing so I can't get a nice even dark surface. So I'm just going to clean up the original trim the radio came with for now.
I'm considering getting some copper sulfate (Zep root killer) and re-copper plating the new trim I picked up so I can darken it properly.

Finally, boy does this stuff stink!

While I ponder what to do with the trim, I finished off the electrical restoration.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8162/7416962458_8a5352fe77_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7416962458/) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8022/7416963214_a0aeac435f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7416963214/)

I used to copper plate with copper sulfate and it's pretty easy.

As a side note, if you are stringing an outside long wire antenna from your house to a pole, or a tree, on one end between the insulator and the pole (or tree) you should have a rather stiff spring, so that when the pole (or tree) sways in the wind, it won't snap the antenna wire.

I have the insulator at the pole end of my antenna hooked to a flexible wire that goes through a brass pulley and then down and wrapped around a cleat. I can untie this wire from the cleat and lower the antenna to the ground if I ever need to. The pole (and obviously the chimney) don't sway at all in wind and the antenna has survived some ugly ice storms. Trees are another story: some use the pulley arrangement and a spring, others a sash weight on the down rope to allow for the trees swaying.

Good tips. I have an attic directly above me where I could try running a long antenna - probably about 50'.

I picked up a reproduction dial scale and speaker wire from "The Radiola Guy".
The speaker wire is very flexible. Just like the remnants I found in this Brunswick model "A" and an RCA 101 speaker. Nice stuff :yes:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7133/7491817882_b568e40977_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7491817882/)

If you find the little light cover for yours, I'd be sure interested to get one, too! This little Brunswick is looking beautiful! Mine looks alot like yours did when you started, needs capacitors, but is still very playable, for now. I dont ever run it unattended.

I have a search setup on ebay, but I don't expect to ever find one - at least not at a reasonable price. It should be fairly easy to fabricate one though. Possibly from a salvaged bit of thin, curved brass or copper stock.

Maybe someone that has one could post a picture of it. It would be nice to know what it should look like.

I managed to find some 3v bulbs for mine. They cast a reasonably nice soft glow...

There's a good close up photo in this thread: http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=153769

It also confirms than the escutcheon should have a dark brown patina.

There's a good close up photo in this thread: http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=153769

It also confirms than the escutcheon should have a dark brown patina.

It must be bent, or something. Dunno, it looks odd to me somehow.

I finally got around to reassembling this set. I still need to fabricate a hood, but otherwise I'm calling it done :)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8182/7903160010_b52c1ccfdb_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7903160010/)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8170/7903160466_7b3f791a64_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/7903160466/)

wow man! that was quite a journy for that radio set. awesome

Beautiful restoration. Especially for the condition from which you began this journey. Really nice job on this Brunswick. Pretty set.

I read a tip about using a measuring spoon for a quick and dirty lamp hood this afternoon and decided to give it a try.

I found this set at my local K-Mart. The largest spoon looks like a good match.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8214/8384176031_f2384d9489_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/8384176031/)

I cut it in two pieces about 60/40 with a little hacksaw. This smaller piece looks pretty good I think.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8513/8385350572_eb490698c0_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/8385350572/)

Here it is after a little Aged Brass paint. I'll tinker with making it darker.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8194/8385350900_df3227fff9_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/8385350900/)

Would you consider making a 2nd one for another Brunswick, unrestored?

Yeah, I suppose I can once I get this one done. I figure some little metal tabs epoxied onto the hood will attach it to the bezel like the original did.

I have a search setup on ebay, but I don't expect to ever find one - at least not at a reasonable price. It should be fairly easy to fabricate one though. Possibly from a salvaged bit of thin, curved brass or copper stock.

I ran across a site awhile back where some guy used to make these, but he no longer does. I wish I had one, or one to borrow, because I could machine a die for my punch press and start making these....

That might have been Radiola Guy (http://www.radiolaguy.com/RadiolaLampHood.htm). He has them back in stock :)

That might have been Radiola Guy (http://www.radiolaguy.com/RadiolaLampHood.htm). He has them back in stock :)

On 2nd thought, If I could borrow an original I could make a mold and cast these out of brass or copper:scratch2:

Hi Bandersan...where is the filter caps on a Radiola 17...that setup is about same power supply thats in my radio!! thanks Jody

Hi Bandersan...where is the filter caps on a Radiola 17...that setup is about same power supply thats in my radio!! thanks Jody

Assuming the Radiola 17 power supply is the same, it'll be inside the small box along with a choke. Checkout post #25 in this thread: http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.php?p=3032708&postcount=25

Notice they're pretty small as this radio predates electrolytic caps and most of the filtering is done by the choke.

While watching items in the Elli Buk auction, I figured I'd kill some time by finishing off my replica hood.

I roughed it up with 600 grit and dabbed on metallic aged brass paint followed by black and burnt umber. Then, I epoxied on some brass strips for mounting in the slots on the escutcheon.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8255/8684255130_6c492a2b5c_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/8684255130/)

Looks pretty good I think.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8544/8684254858_2e6bdf5781_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/8684254858/)

HAHA!! WOW Bob, ya finally got that hood on the brunswick!! Looks really nice as well!! I left Brunswick pt13 wondering if you made one. Did you replace all the tubes in that set with globes or ST's?

Gee, the woodwork came out so nice as well Bob, when you 1st got this, I said how good can you make this.. I remember the rust was all over the place with this radio! super nice job!!! It looks great!

Thanks! ST - I gave up on finding a good set of globe tubes.

That lamp hood came out great. You can start a side business just making those. Thing is - unlike the Radiolas, there is no logo so you can get away with making your own that way. The only other set like that is for the Graybar sets. They also have the same lamp hood with no logo. I just fell into the hardware for one. One other thing, you might install a welders pad under the SPU as a protective measure against any shorting. Originally there was an asbestos pad glued under there for that purpose. That is how I handled my Radiola 17 and 18. Mine had the original pad missing. The SPUs were still good, but just in case I trimmed the welders pad (like a thick piece of felt) and installed it. They are pretty cheap and you can get them at Home Depot. Those paper caps in the radiola power supply are really good quality and unless you play the radio 10 hours a day daily, probably never need rebuilding. I added a fuse in mine, however, just in case.:thmbsp: