This set looks like a vacuum tube black and white my parents owned . Does anybody recognize this set?

I had a Japanese built Sears that looked like that. Actually, I think it was built by Toshiba and was sold under many store brands.

Looks like an early 60s Admiral. Sometime back I had two of them with different sized tubes; if I'm right this looks like the smaller one.

Ok, what screen size would you guess and vacuum tube set then? I do not know when solid state first started on tv's

The owner said it worked but I did not want to ask too may questions and appear too interested and maybe have the price go up

If that's an Admiral, I have 2-Both 8". They are REALLY, REALLY thin-like 6" or so.

Most Admirals from that era had a big round badge at the top corner of the screen with the tube size on it. i.e. a circle with an 8 inside was an 8" set.

I was thinking this might be a Sears set?

not solid state though ?

That does look kinda like the late 60s Sears logo, or maybe even Sharp? It strikes me as being Japanese. Very, very unlikely to be solid state.

A 16" "Magnet-box" I got from a neighbor looked like that. I was disappointed when I opened it up and recognized the tell-tale materials and gold-metal (NOT zenith) chassis. It did work OK with the usual tweaks.

Its actually being sold with three other small sets and the owner mentioned them as being stone age tv's. I guess he hasn't seen the you tube video of a 1938 marconi set before let alone a televisor. If he still has it this weekend I will pick them up.

In many time ago I have a TV much same as yous. :banana: I gave to recondition modern look of silver TV over old wood at demands of my friends who made jokes of wood. :tears::tears::tears: but I was happy with after time. Warning bad! :no::no: I did make new conversion of digital switches which caused a explosion of the vacuum inside the screen. :thumbsdn::thumbsdn::thumbsdn::thumbsdn: do not add these to the TV unless you mount them away from screen. :smoke:

It's Japanese-built, and might be a Sharp. I've seen just about every badge on those from Admiral to Magnavox to Philco, Wards Airline, Bradford, and on and on. It's a tube hybrid with a half dozen or so tubes in a string. Weird Japanese Compactron tubes, beware!

Charles

beware ? are these tubes hard to find?

As I understand it, some of those tubes were hard to find back in the day.

beware ? are these tubes hard to find?

Not in the Internet age.
Lots of online tube sellers not to mention eBay.

Looks like an early 60s Admiral. Sometime back I had two of them with different sized tubes; if I'm right this looks like the smaller one.

Those Admirals you are refering to had a "T" shaped handle. It was a great DXing set. I had a 13" model.

I was going through some Photofacts the other day and spotted 2 or 3 random sets that looked very similiar, just slightly different trim. Sharp, Sears, other store brands, etc.

Zenith was not the only US TV manufacturer to use a crown type emblem on the front panels of their sets. Admiral did too, only theirs did not have an "A" in the center of the badge; Zenith's did have a "Z" right in the middle. Also, Zenith cleverly put the pilot light on their H511 series radios behind the "Z" crest emblem on the front panel. It looks nice when it works, but when it burns out it overloads the series string, causing the 35W4 rectifier tube filament to glow an alarmingly bright orange due to the severe overload. :yikes: If the bulb is not replaced promptly, the rectifier and possibly other tubes in the string will burn out, so it was not there simply for decoration; it was an essential part of the filament circuit. It's a #47 lamp, but I don't know if those are available anymore so I don't use my H511 much these days.

Well I picked it up and its a......... Sears all channel made by Toshiba. I had to buy 4 small portables total but the price was right. whats really funny is he plugged them all in and ran them to show me they worked. Three were solid state and the one I wanted from the picture tubed. two of the solid state set started smelling hot and the tube one looked like the vertical and horizontal had issues. just a bunch of lines going back and forth while at an angle at the same time and it made a rapid pattern "beep noise".

I get them home and two of the modern sets start smoking on me. Thats ok I didn't want them anyways. The other modern set wouldn't pick up anything.

I open the tube set and it has a layer of dirt on the circuit board. OK fine. One can of electronics cleaner..... pull tubes and clean pins..... turn on wiggle tubes and voila... I runs it for about an hour and its fine. I will need to put atleast electro's in it as the can is bulging and it did take 5 minutes for everything to "lock" . But the old dirty technology held better then solid state. .......Oh, no dirt in modern sets, I checked ........

You don't ever plug in an old TV without examining things first.

First rule of old stuff.

It is probably a tube type TV, but this is not certain. I have a 1965 Sylvania about this same size that is solid state except for the high voltage rectifier.

I have two tube type TVs that are similar to this-a Hitachi and Curtis Mathis(I am sure the CM is Japanese manufacture).

Glad you got it. What were the other two sets?

I only remember a toshiba color set from 1983 I think. The others I dont't recall.

I have a Sears LXI Series TV in storage that is early 80's. It must be a Toshiba because Toshiba remotes all work on it, including enabling hidden features, like AV2 input, when it only has physically 1 AV inputs (it's funny that it can be enabled like that).

Sadly the TV is slowly loosing vertical size..

I have a Sears LXI Series TV in storage that is early 80's. It must be a Toshiba because Toshiba remotes all work on it, including enabling hidden features, like AV2 input, when it only has physically 1 AV inputs (it's funny that it can be enabled like that).

Sadly the TV is slowly loosing vertical size..

At least it can be repaired.....

Bad caps were a big problem in '80's and early '90's Toshiba TV's. Look for leaking red or brown electrolytic caps in the vertical circuit.

I might repair it. It hasn't been powered up in a few years so it should be WELL enough discharged. Also though, it's remote control is in rough shape. Doesn't even stay shut anymore.

It's a #47 lamp, but I don't know if those are available anymore so I don't use my H511 much these days.

Still available, even your local radio shack should still have them, if not, you can find them about anywhere.

If you look at the badge to the right on the top, "grilled" portion of the set, above the CRT, you can make out the word Sears on the left had side of the rectangle. I had one like this as well. It is late 1960's. Good picture, poor sound quality. As a previous poster said, oddball tubes. Bet ya it was made by Toshiba. I had one very similar except mine had a T shaped handle that retracted into the case, and liked it a lot overall. The channel selector and other knobs were identical to the one pictured. I got mine used for free in the late 1970's, fixed a shorted LV rect diode, and played that set for years! It still worked when I gave it away in about 1986 or so.

Well, So far I put electro's in because the picture wanted to wiggle side to side alot. That helped and the other issue I have is the top of the picture is being stretched and everyone looks like a conehead ! I found a way low reading resistor in the yoke circuit and replaced it and that helped, but not completely .

I am now suspecting the really bright yellow plastic caps in the set and will replace those .

I replaced all the yellow caps, and then did the clear plastic ones with white paper on the inside with values on them.
So far the wiggle in the screen is gone but anything on the image that is bright white has a twinkle or flash to it. I have one cap that I haven't found and that is a 3750 volt .022 mf. Any ideas on that would be great.
Moyer's does not and just radios has 6000 volt but they are way longer than I need.
Also I did't think about til now But I have no idea if this set has a high voltage rectifier tube. next to the flyback box there is a horiz. output and a damper tube but no rect..
the flyback box has a cap on it that is 3/4 inch away from the horiz. freq. coil so I couldn't put a tube in there and the sticker that shows the tube placement does not show one.
Would someone please pull up the diagram and see what the tube should be and a procedure to get to it.
Sears all channel black and white tv model 562.10111. Thanks!

Nearly all sets kept the HV rect in the cage with the flyback. Open the cage(dismantel it if need be) look at the outer winding of the fly there should be one wire leading off the outer edge of the doughnut, that lead goes to the HV rect tube.

Well I had two caps to put in and check the high voltage rectifier. After finishing up all I get is a bright horizontal line. It worked before but the performance was going down hill.
On top of that it turns one section of the vertical osc./ output tube red. The cap I need is a .022 3750 volt cap and I am using 2 -.01 @10,000 volt caps that are newer but not old. I switched caps and tried different vert tube and results same. one part of the input to the vert transformer gets fed from flyback and the other comes from the vert tube and is showing about 100 volts. Any ideas and also the Sams number so I can get a diagram. it is model 562.10111. thanks!
the input to vert transformer is about 100 volts both wires and the output shows 0 volts .

I also retried the original cap. Due to the sets chassis design I did put some pressure on wiring when I put the new high voltage rectifier in place and I put an ohm meter on those to make sure I did not pull one lose. Found one I did damage, fixed that and still......horizontal bright line on screen and red plated vert. tube.

I thought the tube would only red plate if the osc. isn't doing its job?

Try searching the model here https://www.samswebsite.com/ you should be able to find the sam's number, and if you don't have a cheaper source for the manuals you can buy it from them too. I may have a copy of the sam's for that set or a clone of it, but I just moved and it could be some time before I can check the 2-3 unsorted bankers boxes of sam's I have.

It is times like these when a schematic can be the difference between metaphorically banging your head against a wall, and pinpointing the source of your set's troubles.

If it had good vertical deflection before your repairs then carefully recheck your work, and if that fails look for shorted caps in the vertical deflection circuit.

Good Luck.