I recapped the Vertical board on my Silvertone with the RCA 11 chassis, it didn't change the lack of vertical one bit.
I also resoldered the ground lugs on most of the boards.

All the resistors on the Vertical board check OK as well as the 1500 ohm wirewound that feed the B+ to the Vertical output transformer.
Service switch was deoxed and tried in both positions, it's working but not the cause of the problem.

I have plate voltage at pin 5 of the 6EM7 about 200 volts where it's supposed to be 165, the grid is supposed to be -35 and it's about -110.

Also does anyone know the correct routing of Red & Blue wires to the Yoke?
I forgot to take pictures or notes before I pulled the chassis, I think the Blue wire and the short blue jumper go to the left and center lugs and the Red goes to the right lug, or exactly opposite that, I'm guessing it would just flip the picture over if I got it wrong?

Is the vert blocking oscillator working? Scope the plate to confirm.

Eric, if I understand your question, look to see if you have letters embossed on the plastic housing for the yoke next to each lead. It indicates the color wire for that particular lead printed next to it in the same color as the plastic housing. The letters can be hard to see sometimes. I have it on my CTC7 and CTC9 but I don't know how the 11's are set up, but maybe the letters are there.

I found this elsewhere. It's supposed to be from an 11.
http://antiqueradio.org/art/RCACTC-11MissingParts.jpg

Eric, if I understand your question, look to see if you have letters embossed on the plastic housing for the yoke next to each lead. It indicates the color wire for that particular lead printed next to it in the same color as the plastic housing. The letters can be hard to see sometimes. I have it on my CTC7 and CTC9 but I don't know how the 11's are set up, but maybe the letters are there.

Why yes, they are, at least on the spare yoke I got from Dan they are.
I didn't notice that on the Yoke in the TV, the back is on so I won't check now but next time I work on it I'll look. I do have the wires on correctly at least.

Miniman, I don't have much experience with Scopes, I have about four of them in various condition, at least two of them should work, do I need any special Probes to do this?

I also have a B&K Analyst I could drive the Vertical with.

Miniman, I don't have much experience with Scopes, I have about four of them in various condition, at least two of them should work, do I need any special Probes to do this?

Just the normal x10 probe. Compare the wave form you get to what's in Sams.

I've always found that X10 designation confusing. The X10 prob actually divides the signal and cable capacitance by a factor of 10. Also there's usually a trimmer capacitor on the probe or at the connector that calibrates the prob capacitance to that of the scope input. Here is a better explanation than I can do. http://www.elexp.com/t_probe.htm

I guess you could do the old trick that works on bw sets, conecting the vert osc tube grid with a cap to the filament or something else with 60hz.

Is the service switch in the "normal" position and are its contacts clean?

Is the service switch in the "normal" position and are its contacts clean?

Yes, I checked it tonight to confirm it was working.
I replaced a few more Capacitors today, none really have anything to do with the Vert but since it was on the bench I did them.

I double checked the resistors on the Vertical board and the larger wirewounds under the chassis, all are OK, subbing the Yoke made no difference either.
Checked the Height and Lin controls for continuity, they're OK as is the Output Transformer as far as I can tell, there's continuity from the red to the blue, the other three wires also have continuity between them but I'm not sure what it is supposed to be.

I need to print out the Schematic for one thing, I was reading it from the PDF on a slow computer which made it difficult to find use.

Success!

I took one more look at this tonight after I got done watching Rocky & Bullwinkle.

I took another look at the schematic, this time looking at the Yoke circuit.
I happened to notice the Yoke circuit passes through the Vertical Centering pot, this is a 3 watt wirewound that is the same type used on the Convergence board, we all know how flaky those pots can be and sure enough.

The plastic knob was missing on this one, I tried to adjust it with a screwdriver and fireworks erupted, it started arcing and burning so I yanked the plug.
I pried the pot off the fiber insulator it's mounted to and the insides are burnt to a crisp, this didn't just happen when I touched it with the screwdriver, this was extensive damage that took some time to do, this is probably what retired the set.

So I took the Pot off the spare chassis I got from Dan (a working chassis I could have used but I want to keep the original) installed it and fired it up, this time I got a nice full raster!! :thmbsp:

Is your safety glass cracked, or is that a reflection? I have a pair of tinted replacements, if you're interested.

It's a reflection of the Mirror I had in front of the set.

I had 2 16's that either had the vertical centering or horiz centering pot do the same exact thing. Lots of sparks etc. Usually happens when it's first powered up and adjusted. The pot has been sitting in the same position for 30 or 40 years. I think they corrode due to 2 dissimilar metals touching and/or moisture etc. I repaired the last one with success but usually they are burned beyond repair. Glad you got it running. Should make a great set. They are pretty reliable once all the bugs are out.

I carried an insulated screwdriver for years in my caddy that was strictly used on these RCA's. It was funny how often the OEM control knob had burned away. I'm surprised this control lasted as long as they did.

First picture.

Hooked up the DVD player and Modulator, the Vertical and Horizontal dialed right in and locked solid, the Vertical is stretched out because the controls were moved when I de-oxed them.

The convergence is terrible but I haven't even attempted to correct it, the Purity ring is sitting on the bottom of the cabinet so it's amazing it looks this good.

Picture is nice and clear, only one thing is missing, no color. :no:

Jiggling the tuner (very dirty) and adjusting the H-Hold doesn't help, color and tint controls do nothing other than a very slight change in the picture tint.

Well at least it's running, none of the tubes or caps in the Chroma circuit have been tested or replaced, I'll start on that tomorrow if I have time.

This set has a Glass 3.58 Crystal, did someone say they are more prone to fail than the metal ones?

It's possible that it's bad but I bet it's something else in the color circuit. The oscillator may be off slightly. Maybe recap and test the tubes first. Those boards are prone to have bad solder or traces especially if it has high hours on it. I had that issue on a tube socket on my CTC-9 with extreme high hours(on the 6th CRT). Once I figured it out no more problem. It was really hard to see. Move those tubes around slightly in their sockets and see if it changes anything.

If it's been recapped at all, you might need to do the color AFC alignment on it. It's simple: first make sure the 3.58 oscillator is running by verifying a sine wave on its plate, then ground the reactance tube grid and tweak the osc slug till color bars float by slowly. Remove the ground, color should lock. If not there's trouble farther up stream, or the crystal may be bad.

We have Color!

I tested the tubes in the Chroma section tonight, surprisingly they were all Silvertone Brand, as are most of the tubes in the set.

The 6GH8 tested good! but I found the 6EM6 Burst Amp was shorted, as were both 6FQ7's, these were the R-Y B-Y Amp and the Horiz Blanking G-Y Amp.

Replaced the 6EM6 with a strong used tube and the 6FQ7's with two NOS Sylvanias.

Fired it up and I could see an immediate difference, instead of a dull gray screen I had a reddish screen with really bad purity, a twist of the Color & Tint knobs verified that there was Color coming through, though terribly inaccurate.

I did a real quick Purity and Gray Scale setup and it looks halfway decent, the convergence is still terrible, partly because the components on the neck of the tube are not very accurately placed, also the Focus control is frozen, though the Focus is fairly decent.

Nice! Glad it was simple. Not too far now.

Very nice progress!

Lookin' good!

Hey Eric great job keep up the good work I admire your tv page keeep us posted... Timothy

I second Timothy's request -- please do keep us posted on further progress with this set. I had a Silvertone roundie TV in the 1970s with, I believe, an RCA CTC12 chassis, just one model up from yours. Mine didn't have as good a picture as yours does, though. I was just starting out with color TV at that point and didn't know a lot about it. Shortly before my set bit the dust when the video output tube crunched through the video PC board, however, I also had color sync problems that would disappear when I'd turn the tint control rapidly from one end of its range to the other, at least until I changed channels.

The other problem this set had that I never got a chance to correct (the video circuit board broke when I was trying to replace the video output tube) was a hum bar that floated up through the picture. That was actually why I wanted to replace the 6AW8 video output, as I thought the tube must have had a heater-cathode short. The tube with which I was going to replace it, however, had a bent pin, so when I tried to plug it into the socket, no luck. Thinking I could get the tube in the socket anyway if I fiddled with it long enough, I tried again, with a bit more pressure on the tube. That was when I heard the fatal "crunch" as the video output socket (with the tube part way in) clunked to the bottom of the set. :no:

Looks like you're on the home stretch!

Finishing the convergence is good for hours of fun if you're a fumbler like me and those cheap pots on the convergence board are crusty.

I would not go through full-dress convergence until you have completed everything else that needs attention -- tuner cleaned if necessary, recapping really truly done, "black and white" screen geometry correct in both dimensions, and so on.

Not that repeating a procedure is bad, but I don't like twisting those cheesy little pots more than necessary.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

The crystal is new in the one you picked up. The glass one is on my bench, it failed after a few weeks of use. Use that one if needed in the future

I probably won't get back to it until the weekend, I need more than the five hours a night sleep I've been getting. :yes:

The chassis will have to come out at least once more, I need to change out a few more caps, I may not replace any more of the Orange drops but I definitely want to get that Bumblebee out of the Horiz Osc circuit!
Also need to clean the tuner.

I removed a Bumblebee that was across the AC plug, I don't think it really needs it do you? It's a .047 @ 600v and has nice long leads on it, is that the one the Guitar people want? I'll sell that sucker if it is. :thmbsp:

There's something Microphonic on the chassis, maybe a tube, but whenever I touch anything like a control on the front panel I can hear it ringing in the speaker!
It's very sensitive, even a really light tap sets it off.

I will save the Degaussing and Convergence until the set is in the location it's going to stay in, wherever that might be.

If that tuner's the same wafer type as in my CTC-11s, a careful cleaning is a good idea. I cleaned the heck out of mine and it's still a little funky on occasion.

I've been told that hosing down the whole thing with DeOxit (or whatever) is a bad idea and I have no reason to doubt that advice. My current favorite method is rubbing contacts with Q-tips dipped in cleaner.

Some people just remove those line filter caps, but I'm a gullible sort who believes that parts were included for a reason. Our house is so full of RF noise from computer power supplies and whatnot, I figure these poor old TVs need all the filtering they can get.

Microphonics in a set that new seems a little odd. Certainly an issue with some older TVs. The Philco 49-1240 that I just finished has rubber chassis feet to reduce microphonics. Even with soft new feet, you can still get a ring if you tap the tuner knob with a pencil. My RCA T-100 has a thick lead shield on one of the tuner tubes. Couldn't hurt to look at tubes in the front end, anyhow.

Phil Nelson