hey all i am picking up a magnavox roundie, phono, radio combo thursday but was wondering what type of chassis did they use. did they use there own type or did they use an rca type clone. everything is said to work including the tv,screen does light up with the fuzz because of no antennea so it sounds good but ill see. and yes its really big and probably heavy as well. yet another roundie saved...:yes:

In the beginning they were RCA clones, but maggie eventually began designing their own chassis. I'm not very familiar with the time frame that they made clones in so I can't tell you what you have, though others here may.

i dont know the year because i was told its not on the back nor do i know when the roundies stopped, maybe 66-67 but this one im sure this is befor 66 it looks it.

they were making rectangulars by '66

Timmy, you will be picking up one of the best combo consoles there were when you go to get that Magnavox. Those sets were made during Magnavox's heyday, when the company was based in Fort Wayne, Indiana and the sets were top quality, like Zeniths and RCAs of that era. When you get yours working at peak efficiency you will have an entertainment unit anyone would be proud to own.

Magnavox was still making roundies in 1965. I think their first (or one of their first) rectangular sets was probably their fabulous 25" 3-way color-theatre console, which was introduced in 1966. This set was top-of-the-line, with stereo phono, AM/FM radio, 25-inch TV of course, and a remote control system that could control the entire set, including record reject, from the hand unit. These sets sold for premium prices as well -- I doubt if anyone could so much as touch one for under $800 when they were new, and they were big as all get out. These were not meant for people living in small apartments; I'm sure most folks who could afford one had living rooms at least the size of the state of Texas.

I don't want to think of what a job it must have been to transport these sets. Today there are inventions such as Moving Men, small pads with some sort of casters or other mechanisms set into them that fit under the four corners of a heavy piece of furniture to allow same to be moved without wrecking one's back or worse; however, when these Maggie consoles were new, I'm sure moving them was a real challenge, and more than one person wound up straining his back trying.

Pictures? :drool::drool:

I'd love to have a roundie combo. I have no idea where I'd put it, but I'd make room somewhere.:yes::yes:

Its another one of your favorite 6JE6 hv sets. Probably uses a Fly 305 which is the same as a ctc15 flyback mounted on a slanted frame.
Have fun :arrow::arrow:

yep, my '66 rect. maggy has the 6JE6 horiz out... it pays to keep a close eye on cathode current!

well ill see just how good it is soon enough. this crt is grey in color but what is the difference between the green and grey color of the face. i know the green ones were early but were the grey ones the replacements? maybe this one was replaced. i will post pics when i get it.....

Green comes frome the bonding material between the tube and safety glass. Zenith style. Maybe this one has timmy flavored jello or the rca style. Maybe the cataract has been removed already

:drool:ahhhhh, ok.....

I have one of these sets that I picked up in October of 2011. Bruce got the purity and the convergence set up on it, and it produces a great picture. I think you'll be very pleased by the quality of your set, built when Magnavox was at the top of it's game!

tomorrow is the day......... the BIG pickup......

If the stereo receiver is an "Astrosonic"(solid state), then it's a '64 or newer(will also have UHF). If it's all vacuum tube, '63 or older(may have Optional UHF). Mine is a '62 or '63 model with the CTC-15 clone chassis, no UHF and all tube stereo tuner and amplifier. I'm hoping to get it all going this spring. LOTS of recapping.

i thought the ctc15 came out around 64-65. ctc12 62-63?

CTC-16 64-65. I have 2 CTC-16's form '65. I know they had them in '64. Doug's '64 CTC-16: http://www.youtube.com/user/drh4683#p/search/0/V2uHthZPsVU

well i got the set but i want to check the crt which is an rca and it says on the cabinet that it came with a 21fbp22 but the one in it says on the crt sticker h-19vabp22 rare earth hy lite, so would this be tested the same as a 21 fbp22. i guess it was replaced at one time. well i edited this i checked the crt as a 21fbp22 and there is good emissions readings but the life test the needle drops a little fast on each gun. the scale says anything over 200 is good so the red was 325,green 500, blue 500 . it has hv but no pic or snow so the tubes have to be checked so now i have to tear it all apart for caps since it has a nasty 60hz hum and the am-fm is soild state so its got to be around 1965.

All 22 series tubes use the same tester setup?

Did you clear the shorts and condem the HV yet? :smsex:

yes cleared the shorts and thats when i got the good readings. and no i did not condem the hv since i have to get another probe. 22 series?

xxxxx22

:drool:i dont get it...............

:drool:i dont get it...............

21fjp22
21fbp22
21fuq22
25ap22
25gp22
25vap22
22jp22
22fuc22
19ep22

on and on and on

They are trying to say that the "22" series CRT's will use the same testing protocols. Yes you can test it as a 21***22. Leave it on the tester all night at 6.3V and see if it's better in the morning. They usually always do better when they are awakened from a 30 year slumber. DO NOT REJUVENATE! All solid state tuner/amp means it's a '64 or '65. Probably a 16 clone. 60 cycle hum=new electrolytics. It wont do much until that's corrected. Any pics? Does the stereo/amp work?

the ac hum was so bad that i got a little noise from the tuner but i shut it down because of the caps. did a quick check of tubes and no wonder i got nothing on the crt because the video output tube was so bad it lit up all different colors with shorts. and no didnt do any rejuv. the whole set is in pieces now. i dont have a schematic for this chassis but would you know what the cathode current should be and what pin on the 6je6 for cathode current,#3 or #5.

Pin 3 is what you want. Pin 5 is the heater ground.

any idea what the cathode current should be?

190-220ma

Whats the model/chassis number?

thanks CTC17

on these magnavox stereo solid state, the cap right of the 2 diodes b+ right off the power transformer 30 volt 1000uf gets hot then vents. checked the output transistors for shorts and none and tried another cap, no good. the cap used to come from a can cap but im useing single caps which i used 50v 1000uf instead of the 30v.

Do you have the cap reversed? Observe polarity with electrolytics. Double check or they will just keep venting.

the one lead of the can is + and the base of the can is soldered to the chassis and thats how i put the new one clipped the 1 wire and the diodes put them to + on the new cap and grounded the other lead. dont make sence to me...

ok i got it as the cap was in wrong and i traced it to the neg side of the output transistor, so its positive ground. i dont have a schematic for this unit. well the astro sonic sounds really good but the speaker selector switch has both, external, but what does INT stand for.

INT is Internal.

That was good that your backward capacitor(s) only vented and did not go ka-POW! I have never blown one up but I heard stories from co-workers who did after they put one in backward.

Hello Int means the speaker that our in the console itself,,, Timothy

..so the INT means the speakers that are contained in the console.. Sure means that in our console.

I mistaked and put a litic cap in a stereo peace the wrong way +.
But really I was lucky I didnt have a lytic explosion when I was starting out.

this stereo is strange because can caps i thought were all the same and the cap had no special markings to indicate positive ground. so this cap had 2 in the one and the 2 leads we assume are positive but in this case they were negative and this is where i went wrong. so according to what the speaker switch shows is that if you switch to both, then this means the internal speakers and external speakers will play or switch to external then it shuts off the internal and leaves on the external, did i get it correct this time,lol...

You are correct.

I've always loved the Maggie entertainment centers. I started doing TV repairs on a few of them, and was given a few to strip... I'd sure like to have those stripped sets today! Look forward to seeing a picture of the turntable. The Collaro built Micromatic was great. I never tossed a turntable out of a Maggie, either. They got used in projects because they usually worked fine after a tad of oiling.

Have you checked out the circuit breaker on your set? Are you getting B+ ?

When I first opened my shop, I had the misfortune of having 3 Maggie Entertainment Centers all at the same time come in for service. I couldn't move in the repair shop area without running into one. Long story short, I wound up owning 2 of them. Replaced CRT's on both, cleaned the controls and tuners and sold both of them and never saw either of them again. I like to think they are still playing somewhere...

Good luck with this, Timmy

Bruce

I've always loved the Maggie entertainment centers. I started doing TV repairs on a few of them, and was given a few to strip... I'd sure like to have those stripped sets today! Look forward to seeing a picture of the turntable. The Collaro built Micromatic was great. I never tossed a turntable out of a Maggie, either. They got used in projects because they usually worked fine after a tad of oiling.

Have you checked out the circuit breaker on your set? Are you getting B+ ?

When I first opened my shop, I had the misfortune of having 3 Maggie Entertainment Centers all at the same time come in for service. I couldn't move in the repair shop area without running into one. Long story short, I wound up owning 2 of them. Replaced CRT's on both, cleaned the controls and tuners and sold both of them and never saw either of them again. I like to think they are still playing somewhere...

Good luck with this, Timmy

Bruce

who knows maybe this set is one you sold. finishing the cabinet little more on the stereo tuner then the tv chassis.ill post pics when its done. tubes, breaker, caps, resistors left to go on the chassis and solder joints all have to be done yet.crt was replaced with an rca hylite and tests very good so it should look good. and i also got a spare flyback should i need it in the future.is there any secrets i should know about these maggies besides the stereo tuner being positive ground, i found out with a venting cap. the turn table runs but it needs a needle which i may have one and also needs cleaning up as well and the center spacer to play 45s is missing which is the only thing missing from the whole set.

Lessee some before pictures!! Ooh, Ooh....

If you know which 45 spindle you need, I may have one available.

heres the old lady befor anything.

T, if you show a picture of the turntable, we can find you a spindle.

Your set looks alot like my B/W console.

I may have a extra spindle we could deal on post that pix on this sight if you do not mind.I would appreciate it.. Timothy

i was wondering about the one can cap on the tuner, are both connections coming off that can neg and the chassis positive? i know the one with the diodes is positive ground but the other im not sure. the other i put a cap and the votage there is 23volts but putting the cap in neg ground it only went to 22volts and clipping the cap the voltage in the cap drops instantly to 8 volts but turning the cap around useing positive ground the cap goes to 23volts and then clip it and it holds 23volts so i would assume this way is correct now. only because i dont have a schematic. thanks and ill get a pic of the table soon.

here is the turn table.

Hello I have that turntable with the spindle and good needle and cartridge in like new condition will sell for forty bucks you pay shipping and cost of phono let me know.. Timothy

hey guys anyone know what to do with what looks like instant on, the tubes glow very little and the tuner bulb stays on alittle. how to do away with it since it causes problems and wear and tear on components and tubes.

Hello some tube instant on has a switch on the tv on back to turns feature off, Magnavox tvs have that depending on the model of set you have.. Timothy

Usually there is a "vacation" switch to turn off instant on. Otherwise I'd suggest unplugging the set when not in use.

Alot of tube TV's were killed by that 'instant-on' feature. I'd only use it sparingly.

Is there a MASTER switch on the control console?

i found no switch but then again i never leave any of my vintage sets plugged in. the only thing is a push pull switch next to the tuner that says auto- push and i have it pushed in thinking that will stop the instant on.

That 'auto' switch might be for the automatic fine tuning.

look on the back for a sliding switch. if the tuner light is dim when the set is off then its in the instant on. there should be two sliders on the back (up high on the cabinet, not down on the chassis) one makes the image tint look less blue, the other is the instant on.

i found no switch but then again i never leave any of my vintage sets plugged in. the only thing is a push pull switch next to the tuner that says auto- push and i have it pushed in thinking that will stop the instant on.

One way to defeat the instant-on feature is to remove the diode across the TV power switch. This diode will be located on the back of the switch and connected directly in shunt with it. If it shorts due to, for example, lightning strikes, your TV will remain "on" permanently; the only way to shut it off will be to unplug the power cord from the AC outlet. Instant-on for televisions was popular in the 1970s, but later in the decade when energy conservation became the watchword in America, the feature was eliminated.

There could be a switch on the rear apron of the TV chassis to defeat the instant-on feature, if your set has it. If so, set the switch to "off" and the instant on feature will be disabled until or unless the switch is set to "on" again.

The previous poster could be correct as to the "auto" switch on your TV's control panel being the defeat switch for automatic fine tuning; in fact, if the switch is near the tuner, it may well be the AFT on/off control. I would try this: deliberately mistune the channel you use for your converter box or cable box output until you get colored "worms" on the screen, then pull out the switch near the tuner. If it is the AFT switch, the picture will clear immediately.

BTW, you are very wise not to leave your vintage TVs plugged in when they are not in use; even with the power switch set to "off", the power is not entirely disconnected from the set since most of these switches are single-pole single throw, meaning one side of the line will always be connected. Some AC/DC radios and televisions are even worse, as one side of the line is directly connected to the AC line -- meaning there is a 50/50 chance of inserting the line plug in the socket such that the chassis will be "hot" with the full line voltage.

Moreover, after 40 years or more (this is especially true of very old antique electronics), problems can and very often do develop, stemming from such things as leaky or dried-out capacitors (especially power supply filters), resistors drifting off value, and the like. Leaving a vintage TV or radio plugged in, even if it is not switched on, can be a potential fire hazard if a component should short and, for any reason, the fuse does not blow. Selenium rectifiers are particularly dangerous in this regard, especially very old ones; they can short without warning and release a gas that smells like rotten eggs. It is for this reason that it is recommended to replace old, obsolete selenium rectifiers with modern silicon diodes whenever possible. If you take this route, be sure to add a dropping resistor in series with the diode; this will ensure that the voltage at the output of the silicon will be equal to (or very close to) that of the original selenium stack.

by changing say the convergence selenium stack, i dont have the schematic to get an idea what the voltage is at that rectifier or what resistor to use, i think it would take 3 diodes to replace that selenium. others have told me dont bother with the dropping resistors because its not much difference in voltage and the fact that these old sets have a built in 20%-30% tolarance already.

I'd get the thing running before you think about changing out stuff like this.

:Dwell guys your right the instant on switch was on the back as i looked at the back cover and it says quick picture so that will be switched off. all thats left is tv chassis caps and found one 100 ohm resistor bad in the convergence board. the turn table was missing the needle cartridge but i had one to put in. just waiting for the caps and then its a go to the finish and see just how good a picture it produces. and for all you guys that told me my hv probe was lying to me, well i got another now.

here is an update on old maggie.

Wow that is a beautiful combo!

:drool:

Is this a 1965 model?

got a capacitor question, could i use a 450v 220uf in place of 450v 60uf ?

Is this a 1965 model?

yes it is a 1965 model,i was 5 years old when it was made,lol now im old like maggie,lol,lol.....

I was about 9 years old in 1965. For Friday night fun, our family would go downtown to Dunhams Music House to look at the latest records. Dunhams also happened to be the local Magnavox/RCA dealership. I loved looking at the high-end systems that they offered. Dunhams was known for always keeping a good selection of the product lines in stock.

Ahh, memories!

yup good old days huh.

About the capacitor's, I would use something closer to the 60MFD than 220. Never go down in value. An 80 would be OK. A 100 would be on the verge of pushing it. Would be fine for testing purposes. You can try 2 33MFD 450V in parallel or 2 120mfd(or close) 250V in series. That gives a 60mfd value at 500V. It will work until you can order the correct values someday.

to much capacitance i guess would not be ok for an old set , even though they all had there 10-20% overall, ok thanks.

If the set uses a voltage doubler power supply, both caps should be replaced with the same value. You could use 2 450ufs, but the current surge would be huge.

I have used those big value caps in some of my sets without problems. Those big value caps are everywhere from switching power supplies.

how about 3 160v 100uf in series to use in place of 450v 60uf. forget this i just edited, this wont work either. just trying to make this up since i got a bad cap from moyers.

Moyers!??!?! Just go to the local electronic store!

local store there is nothing here to buy caps only radio shack which wont have anything like what i need.

Digikey, mouse, Radio daze, antique radio supply etc. You will probably have to make an order since you cannot buy locally.

i guess i might be pushing it if i used 2- 250v 330uf in series for 500v 165uf in place of the 450v 60uf.

Just order the right caps from mouser.

The big problem, Timmy, is that there is not much room for a load of outboard capacitors on these chassis.

are the colors hard to set up and get right with a ctc16 clone. but here is a first pic of maggie . i cant seem to get the colors just right because some blues appear greenish, maybe the r,g,b, should be very low. and the red is strong also.

Need to do a purity and grayscale followed by convergence. Looks pretty good in the pics.

i did the whole setup grey and purity but the colors are just to much so im going to set the colors again in the service mode but i will leave them low instead of turning them up just enough to see the color lines.

Also, make sure you have the sepia switch off. It will make the whole picture appear to have a brownish/reddish tint.

is that the switch in the back above the quick picture, instant on?

Yes. It will change the 'temprature' of the picture.

Yes. It will change the 'temprature' of the picture.

That system has made a comeback, at least in Insignia flat-screen TVs. Mine has a menu option for color temperature, but it is not continuously variable either -- just three positions: warm, normal and cool. I think the switch on Timmy's set is even more limited -- just two positions, warm and off. Most people who had TVs with this option probably ignored it, or didn't even know it was there; same thing with the Chromix (Sears) and other types of color temperature controls on other brands. Most people found the adjustment so confusing and critical that they just set it at black and white (neutral) and forgot about it for the life of the set -- especially if that switch was, as in Timmy's set, on the rear apron of the chassis.

One of the best things ever to happen to color TV, IMHO, was when these switches and dials were finally done away with; as I said, these controls just made color tuning more complicated and confusing for most viewers, some of whom just settled for whatever was on the screen when they turned on the set -- even if the colors were so horribly off it wasn't funny. Back in color TV's early days, TV shops made a lot of house calls for sets with no color on a known colorcast only to discover that the fine tuning was not set properly, or a color antenna on a rotor was not pointed exactly at the station the person wanted to watch. The set owners did not realize that a color TV picture must be fine-tuned exactly to get any color in the picture at all. Today's flat-screen TVs are designed so that the viewer need not do anything but switch the set on, find a channel he or she wishes to watch, and enjoy the programs. I doubt that anyone even bothers with having a new HDTV calibrated anymore after installing it.

I guess TV manufacturers today do not expect that viewers are going to be adjusting the controls in the on-screen menus very much, since the buttons that activate these menus (and even the set's own power switch, channel +/- and volume +/- buttons) are often located on a small panel mounted on the side of the set. Menu access is often even more complicated using the remote, often requiring the use of a "shift" button which is pushed simultaneously with the menu button; this is something a lot of viewers just don't want to be bothered with, so many people just leave the OSD menus alone, if they are aware that such even exist.

BTW, I have been trying for practically the entire time (nearly six months) I've owned my flat-panel TV to find the counter (if there is one) that shows how many hours the backlight has been on since the television was purchased. It is not mentioned anywhere in the online manual, nor can I find it anywhere in the onscreen menus. This counter is very easily accessible, however, on my HP S2031 flat-screen computer monitor, as there is a menu option on the monitor's main OSD menu. Why this is readily accessible on a computer monitor, but not on a FP television, is beyond me. Maybe TV makers feel that most viewers don't care how long the backlight has been in use; that or else, since my FP television has LED backlighting, they feel such a counter is unnecessary, since LEDs last so much longer than the older cold-cathode fluorescent bulbs in some FP computer monitors and older flat-screen TVs.

I wonder if CCFLs are even used anymore in today's FP monitors and TVs, or have they all made the switch to LED arrays? Since LEDs consume much less power than do large CCFL fluorescent bulbs, I would think the latter have been all but completely replaced by the former -- witness how LED lighting has all but pushed fluorescent-tube lights out of the picture in American homes. I am referring to the long fluorescent tubes used in table lamps and such in the '60s-'70s, not the small screw-base CCFLs that have all but replaced incandescent bulbs, even in the face of the ban on the latter that was supposed to have gone into effect this year, but did not.

Dont all trust the setup line thing. Watch the set with the color turned down for awhile and see if it appears to red or green whatever. Adjust the screens for the best black and white picture then turn the color up. It takes some time to get the setup. Dont just think because the line is white its correct.

well im done with the set up and it is what it is, its like the pic above , it is a little better but some blues are green and dont know why.

I agree with ctc17. It does take a while to get the setup correct. I have a '64 Magnavox combo, which has been set up correctly by Bruce. You'll be amazed at how nice the color is with a little time and patience.

I agree with ctc17. It does take a while to get the setup correct. I have a '64 Magnavox combo, which has been set up correctly by Bruce. You'll be amazed at how nice the color is with a little time and patience.

i dont know i just cant get blues they show up as green and yellow is bearly there.

Timmy,

If you bring up R G B one at a time, are they really red, blue, and green? If the purity is not right, the color wont be right either.

In setup, I'd bring up the red line first, then dim it to almost invisible, then blue to make an almost invisible purple, and then green, to make it look white. I'd look at the white screen, and add a touch of blue-ish to the screen.

Also, let your adjustments sit like they are. Look away for a few minutes, then look back at the B/W image. Do you notice any excess color in the picture?

i tried all that all the colors are strong on the lines during set up. purity is fine whites are fine and convergence is fine just the blue being green,lol.. for all i know the adjustments on the color board may have been touched because the quad coil was touched and broken and i fixed it and readjusted for good sound so who knows what was touched at any given time during its life time.

Check your color tubes.

already did and double checked.

Alignment time!!!

oh boy and i dont have a schematic. and the other colors are fine.

Then, enjoy it the way it is. Get the rest of it working and you will be in business!

no ill get it right soon enough, it just not right the way it is, lol.

no ill get it right soon enough, it just not right the way it is, lol.

:banana:

:banana:well its like i said ill get it right and i did, got the blue back and the color is complete.

So, what did you do?

i fixed it, but apparently when i went over the tube sockets and traces, the solder, there was a few i missed. but moving the tube was not enough but rather really push and move side to side and the color blue came back. i had moved them but nothing had happened until i got on it harder.its good now all the colors are right now. is there a way to make the picture brighter, like when theres to much contrast theres dark areas but the other way its a different dark.

heres the new blue.......

Very nice looking combo....drool....:drool::drool:

well they are around, just have to keep looking......

Hey great job on that maggie wish I could be that lucky timmy keep up the good work... Timothy

It's looking like Spongebob Time!

and all the right colors too............lol,lol..

Don't expect it to be as bright as a modern day CRT set. Too much brightness will usually get those nasty retrace lines. Looks very nice though. Good job! I need to do my 1963 maggie as soon as it warms up a bit. Cant wait. I'm more interested in the stereo portion than the TV. It's all tube, no transistors. I already know what the TV will look like when finished

yes i know it wont be the same as modern day tvs but ill raise the b,g,r drives that should brighten it up a little. i think the tubes stereo is probably easier then transistors, and with tubes it may sound better.

Be careful about overdriving the picture tube. It may cause it to burn out faster.

I wouldn't try to get alot of brightness out of a roundie. You can easily overtax the high voltage. That flyback is not fun to find anymore.

well true but i have a new thordarson fly 305 from moyers just in case this one goes south.

OK. Then, why tempt fate?

You should go for good white balance, and adjust the drives and screens for this. Check your video output tube if you think the brightness is not high enough.

Back in the day, people tended to watch these TV's in a darkened room.

Glorious Lollipop Color...(grin) Ya Done Good, Timmy !

its got great white color and the video output tube was change along with others.

I really wish I could find one of those astrosonic combos.I would like to replace my mid 80s curtis-mathes combo in my front room,(tv by nec--stereo by funai)

I really wish I could find one of those astrosonic combos.I would like to replace my mid 80s curtis-mathes combo in my front room,(tv by nec--stereo by funai)

keep an eye out on craigslist they are out there, maybe not many left.

Timmy!!! How goes it man?

I think she looks real good . i agree it'd be best not to turn the contrast and brightness up too high on something like this even if all voltages are on par w/ the schem's. crt and h.v section will be eaten up quicker. But then again i'd use it as normally designed (decent pix to the eye) and not sweat it. speaking of which, if u replaced the video out tube i bet the sharpness and contrast are great. remember contrast is a function of gain in the ckt, and youve already got some loss in the phosphor transferrence of its crt...manifesting itself in a decrease of light output for all colors. a new tube here always looks best.