A friend of mine gave me this set, I talked him out of scrapping it and bought his a pack of cigarettes. I told him that was about all he would get for his hard work tearing it apart anyways.

As you can see, it looks like problems with a section of the screen and it's associated drive circuitry. I have some experience with flat panels, having replaced backights and power supplies, but when it gets deep, I am limited as to what to do. I guess I could save it and wait for a set with a cracked screen, bad p/s, bad backlamp or lamp inverter, as all those systems appear to be ok.

I have tried jiggling cables that I can get to and prodding and poking with a plastic pen. I know there are lethal voltages in the power supply, so I am careful.

Any suggestions? Her's some pics of the guilty party.

Probably the T-con board. Could possibly be the screen itself. VERY common on Sony and Samsung LCD TV's. Try twisting the screen by the corners slightly and see if the picture changes at all. If it changes, you have a bad LCD and cannot be repaired without replacing the whole panel which is very costly. If not, take a chance and buy a new T-con for it. they are plentiful on Ebay.

I am sure it's not a tcon, don't waste your money. I see these every day (Sonys and Toshiba Regzas are bad for this issue). Take your fist and bang on the bezel in one of the corners. Usually the top right. The picture will straighten out. Some have said that you can rig something to put permanent pressure on the bad spot in the screen connector, but I've never had success.

I have found that once you whack it, it will stay good until you shut it down and it cools off. I usually just part them out when they are like that, I can't ever find a buyer for one.

I thought it was the screen on my 2007 sony 52". Turns out it was the t-con. Been working for 2 and a half years now. I've seen just as many as any other tech. You decide what you want to do with it. T-cons are an issue with these, PM me a model number and address and I'll send you one for free.

I would say T-con myself. As the screen as a whole is visiable and there is no line bleed saturating the picture in areas. I have been through a similar situation. No it's probably not the power supply as that only feeds inverter, and input and audio boards, the t-con drives from scaler or input board itself. You could do what others sufggested and check ribbons going from the t-con to the panel.

What is the model number of that Sony Bravia?

KDL-32L4000. I'm sending a board to him for free to try.

Ah OK I wondered because my 40V4100 was also made in April 2008.
Been super-reliable so far.

What is the model number of that Sony Bravia?

Yeah, I know. The TV was facing away from me when I wrote that. It's hard getting out of this chair at times.:D

Probably the T-con board. Could possibly be the screen itself. VERY common on Sony and Samsung LCD TV's. Try twisting the screen by the corners slightly and see if the picture changes at all. If it changes, you have a bad LCD and cannot be repaired without replacing the whole panel which is very costly. If not, take a chance and buy a new T-con for it. they are plentiful on Ebay.

I have a Samsung LN26A450 that will intermittently have the screen freeze or go blank but still be completely lit. Twisting the screen by the corners will correct the problem most of the time. I have checked it out completely and am 99% sure that it is the panel. If there is a possibility that you think it could be the T-Con board, I am willing to buy a replacement and try it. The numbers on the T-Con board are as follows:

V260B1-C04
D016841

I see many C01 boards listed on eBay, and they look identical to my board - do you think that they could be used in this TV, or should I wait and get 1 that has identical part numbers? I could get a C01 board for about $20 to $25, which is what I would prefer to spend under the circumstances.

Thanks for any advice that you can provide.

ive fixed samsungs with bad panel, and they have been rock solid for years after the fix. It also depends on HOW it failed.

I have seen on most samsungs, the welding material they use in the ultrasonic machine to tack the ribbons on the buffer interconnect boards, They start to corrode/eat away the copper traces just below the ribbon. Magnifier sees the "black spots" on the copper traces.

Keep in mind these traces are about 0.25 to 0.5mm apart. VERY narrow.

Fix: Clean the bonding material away from the traces via a soldering iron, or something of the like that wont damage the existing bond, or board. I used a soldering iron at low temp, and fine microfibers to carry away the material, so the bare copper is exposed and not protected.

Use a fine point silver conductive pin. Take some tape and mask off each affected "copper trace", one at a time. Then take the silver pen and dab it on. Wait to dry, remove tape. This will stop shorts from adjacent traces. Then move your tape down to the next connection, repeat the process.

I have done this on numerous panels. it works. :-) Its time consuming, and a royal pain in the f*ckin a$$.

But hey, it works :-)


Second issue: If the actual ribbon is delaminated from its weld point at the interconnect board, You must use a hot air pencil, heat it up, and remove the ribbon entirely from ONLY THE CIRCUIT BOARD, NOT THE PANEL!!!!!!!!!!!. (or you could just wedge it with a peice of rubber, but thats a temp fix).

Once removed, clean the ribbon from weld residue, and same with the circuit board. Grab a flex ribbon connector with the same pin pitch, and number of pins (hard, but if you keep a bunch of parts digital boards, its easy).

Solder manually the flex ribbon edge connector onto the buffer interconnect, then once thats done, check for no shorts. If ok, unclip the ribbon connector, slip in your panels flex ribbon, and click it back in. Fixed.

Third issue: Ribbon may delaminate/break away from the glass panel itself. No fix. wedge it, if that dont work, junk it.


Or if you had an ultrasonic welder, along with the proper welding rod, you can fix it back to factory new without any of these hacks. But im sure we all just carry one of those in our back pockets... ya right.. lol. Not sure what type of material they use for welding, its almost like its plastic, sorta..

Thanks mbates14 for the interesting explanation of the problem with the bonding to the LCD. If this is the problem with my Samsung panel, and I think it is, I will not attempt this type of repair - not worth the trouble for a TV that I got for free.

It is a shame, and should be considered a crime, that major manufacturers will not make their products more reliable and durable.

Unless someone else can convince me that trying a T-Con board is practical, I will leave this TV on my parts shelf until I get a similar TV with a good panel that needs repairing.

It's kinda funny the way the forum software (Skimwords) highlights the various tradenames of the sets we are talking about being troublesome, making pop up windows, when you mouse over them, with links to buy said companys' products. :D