I have one of these beasts. I recapped about half of it, 60+ SMD lytics about 2 years ago and it worked ok, but you had to rig a reset switch on the formatter board, otherwise it was stuck with a blinking light of death...

Well eventually it got color lines, distortion, etc... So i bit the bullet and recapped the entire chassis, almost 200 capacitors between the DM and formatter.

After recapping, it now boots up on its own without my reset switch mod, and it comes on with a beutiful picture once again. BUTT..... no sound. lost it completely. Amplifier is working, as i can hear audiable buzz when i probe the inputs to the output IC. If i turn the volume up all the way in the menu, i can hear hiss, and it lowers as i drop the volume. But the damn sound is gone. no inputs have sound, HDMI, regular tuner, etc... dead...

anyone see this before? i pulled out the chassis again and double/triple checked my recap job. even checked around for dropped solder/blobs, comming up empty. Maybe one of them is bad.... who knows. I guess its entirely possible after 200+ caps that you might have 1 or two bad/leaky/shorted.

I will say one thing, i WILL NEVER recap another one. that was just insane. just figure, replace 300+ SMD caps between 2 boards. then gotta replace all the large 1000uf filters on the remaining boards. ugh.. Oh and did i say the boards are multi-layer?

Mine is a WD-60737, probably newer than yours. During power up it would get to the welcome screen and shut down. This one only has two boards and all filled with Nichicon caps which were ok. The lead free solder looked horrible so I resoldered the larger stuff with good ol' Kester 44.

It turns out there's a software update for this one and that fixed it! I simply downloaded it off the mitsu parts website to a flashdrive.

No sound is about the only thing I have NOT seen on that generation of Mitsubishi. My 52525 got the 1000uf cap fix 3 years ago, but lately is getting fussy with lots of resets, and it's starting to get the random lines/noise now too. The picture is really squirrly with the VGA input from the laptop. I'm waiting for it to either become unwatchable or for the green light of death to stay forever before I try to recap it. I figure I have a 50/50 chance of killing it for good by trying to changing all of those SMD caps. But to answer your question, (or more correctly, NOT answer it), No, I don't know what is going on to kill the sound. Sorry.

Man, if you got the BGLOD to go away, you are a better man than me, heh. I have worked on many of that generation, and if I get a BGLOD, I just pass. I won't even take 'em for free. I would just count your blessings that you got the picture working and use an external amplifier :)

In my experience BGLOD is easy.....If you see 4 1000uf/16V caps together, replace them. It'll probably look like crap when it fires up but at least it will fire up....usually.

ya i can fix those light of death issues, i know what causes it. noise in the power circuits going through all the logic.

If you replace just the caps on all the SMD regulators, and the obvious 1000uf ones, (the regulator caps are 220uf, 100uf and 47uf), it takes care of the BGLOD. the 47UF caps that surround the 5v, 3.3v, and the 2 1.8v regulators on the formatter cause BGLOD. the 100uf, 47uf, and 220uf caps that are on the DM module surrounding the same regulators cause the rainbow/lines.

If not, rig a switch on the FC connector on the formatter PWB. thats what i did for awhile until i broke down and recapped it.

You cut the power to the formatter logic, wait for DM to boot, and flip the switch back on to boot the formatter, then power TV on. works.

My issue now, is i lost sound. probably a solder blob or one of my new caps is actually bad. I was tracing through the schematic, they seem to be I2S system for sound, which is what CD players use. The I2S gets built inside the signal board (which is the board i did NOT touch). Then its passed over to the DM modules main CPU, which then gets sent into a switching logic that switches between the MP3 IC and the main sound.

It then moves from there to the CS42XX DAC, and the analog signal gets sent from there to a DSP which does your volume, treble, bass, EQ, etc....

Then from there, back to the signal board to get amplified. So somewhere in that mess of logic, im loosing the signal. Like i said when i crank up the volume all the way, i hear alot more hiss if i put my ear to the speaker. So that means the DSP is functioning and has serial control from the micro, so im either missing the I2S signal, or the DAC died. What sucks is you cant signal trace shit when the set is running, because its all gotta be sandwiched together, so im probably going to have to solder wires at random spots and run them outside of that mess of a chassis.

The TV does have a card reader, so i could use an SD card with MP3 files, because i know if i get sound that way, im missing the I2S from the signal board, if not, the DAC is dead. There is an ST013 MP3 decoder on the DM board, and the switching logic will switch between the main sound I2S comming from the signal board, or the ST013 MP3 I2S audio. That would be a good first step i guess.

I would scope the I2S buss coming from the signal board, and the analog audio out from the DAC going to the DSP, but.... chicken and the egg syndrome. LOL

I once worked on one of those and when I was all done I had new problems. I don't recall what the new symptom was but the cause was I screwed up the edge of one of the film cables between the DM and formatter. I just about went nuts finding it, but lucky for me I had a scrap chassis I could steal one from and that fixed it.

Ya, ive thought about that, and i have a scrap chassis as well, but unfortunately, the chassis I have doesnt have half the chips that this one does, because this one has the HDD

I have a couple of those hard drives. I can't do anything with them though. It appears they are locked by the hardware. Can't read, write, mount, format, partition, fdisk, or anything. The best I have achieved is getting the drive to report that it is present, but I'm not allowed to do anything with . Have you ever had any luck?

never messed with it, never had the rhyme or reason to. My guess is for copyright/content protection. almost any, if not all DVRs have some sort of protection on the HDD or content. for awhile it was broken on some of the old echostar recievers, but not sure about tivo or etc...

if im going to guess, its probably becuase its formatted outside of the 512-byte sector size, NOTHING will touch that drive if its anything other than 512bytes. I had this issue with proprietary fibrechannel SCSI drives as well, known as clariion.

I was able to fix the issue by using special linux utilities, known as sg_format. using ubuntu, you can use the standard "sudo apt get" for the sg3 utils to get it. its in the database. This utility can force the format to 512bytes and the problem is solved.

i ended up fixin it. ribbon cables were shot. they looked good, but they were not.

i ended up fixin it. ribbon cables were shot. they looked good, but they were not.

:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:

TV runs like brand new again. beautiful picture.

I have a spare engine for one of these which is where i got the spare chassis from. shot color wheel.