View Full Version : RCA 1949 9TC275 in Detroit
Penthode 10-18-2011, 09:09 PM I spotted for only $35 the first direct view RCA "large screen" television. I say large screen direct view because all prior RCA's had 12 inch CRTs or smaller.
It uses the KCS29 chassis with 27 tubes and a 16AP4 CRT and is a great performer. (This set listed for $469 in 1949). It is on the Detroit Craigslist:
http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/atq/2655779183.html (Not affiliated)
It is a bit too far away from me but I feel it deserves to be saved.
Bill Cahill 10-18-2011, 09:57 PM Thanks. I'm gg to try to get it.
Bill Cahill
benman94 10-21-2011, 07:12 PM I'm gonna need something to do after I wrap up my T-120, so I figured this would be an excellent set.
Penthode 10-21-2011, 10:27 PM Glad it has got a new home. :yes:
I picked up one earlier in the year: the electronics have been restored and I am now finishing off the cabinet.
These first 16" RCA's were quite expensive hence these must be fairly rare.
earlyfilm 10-22-2011, 06:27 AM (This set listed for $469 in 1949).
A near top-of-the-line RCA set in 1949 would be real veneer and not printed, correct?
Most real wood pre-1950 RCA's that I seem to remember have the large panel veneers flipped, while this one has both door panels turned in the same direction.
Am I just non-observant, or is this unusual?
Not interested in this set, just curious.
James
Penthode 10-22-2011, 09:32 PM A near top-of-the-line RCA set in 1949 would be real veneer and not printed, correct?
Most real wood pre-1950 RCA's that I seem to remember have the large panel veneers flipped, while this one has both door panels turned in the same direction.
Funny, despite the $469 price tag, the veneer on the 9TC275 doors is printed. Frankly, I think the cabinet is fairly basic and cheap (by 1949 standards).:thumbsdn: I just think the point-to-point wired electronics and the new 16AP4 just made it expensive to manufacture.
The more expensive 9PC41 had real veneers and a better cabinet.
To fulfil my curiosity, what 1950 set had "real" veneer on the front doors?
benman94 10-23-2011, 02:49 PM Picked up the set today. Sellers were really nice elderly folks that probably would've given it away; they just wanted it out of the basement. Popped out the back and a schematic for a CTC-15 falls out into my lap. Pretty odd . . . Anyways the picture tube was on a brightener. What are the chances I've got a dud CRT?
miniman82 10-23-2011, 06:47 PM Anyways the picture tube was on a brightener. What are the chances I've got a dud CRT?
Very good. :thumbsdn:
benman94 10-23-2011, 07:19 PM Assuming it is bad (haven't tested it yet), what are the chances rejuvenation would bring it back to life? More importantly, if it would buy more time, how long could I get out of a rejuvenated tube?
benman94 10-23-2011, 07:47 PM I know for a fact the filament still has continuity and the inter-electrode capacitance values still check out right where they should. That's a decent sign I'd take it . . . . . ?
miniman82 10-23-2011, 10:09 PM Doesn't mean anything, many tubes have good filaments and dead cathodes or opens/shorts. Tester is the only way.
Electronic M 10-23-2011, 11:18 PM If you are near to Milwaukee you could bring the CRT to me, and I could test it for you.
Penthode 10-24-2011, 11:10 PM I picked up a 9TC25 earlier this year. It had it's original tube with a brightener. Refer to the pictures on my earlier thread.
I noticed the RCA 16AP4 with a date code late in '49 had a metal instead of glass exhaust tube. I looked at the getter and the flashing was starting to curl but there was no white: I blelieve the tube is going gassy.
It had a brightener and the emission was zilch. As a last resort I tried rejuvenation and got reasonably good emission. The picture was reasonably bright and was watchable.
The emission has dropped a bit but a "clean" brings it right up again. Anyhow it remains okay for a while when a few months later another clean will again bring up the emission. (I wonder if gas is contaminating the cathode?)
Electronic M 10-24-2011, 11:30 PM Maybe you should remove the base and put some Vac Seal (or what ever it was that CT-100 owners were putting on their 15GP22s in hopes of preventing leaks) as a precaution.
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