I figure while I have my 20X12 up on the bench I might as well tackle this set too. It's the black set on the left.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6162/6174526914_b4e3ba82e0_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6174526914/)

It appears to be a very early revision of the 20X1 chassis. It also has quite a few original Admiral branded tubes including the CRT.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6072/6154080289_a5ae124f41_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6154080289/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6207/6154623728_7db6f936d9_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6154623728/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6020/6198599439_bc36a690e2_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6198599439/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6153/6199116592_12e95f14e6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6199116592/)

When I pulled the knobs off, a few small washers came falling out. I was puzzled for a while - where did they come from ? Finally, it occurred to me that they are spacers between the inner and outer knobs. Without them, the knobs have a tendency to track when rotating one or the other. I have a few Admirals sets with these same knobs, but never found washers before. I suspect they all were lost over the years and never replaced.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6207/6154623066_4f98bc55cf_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6154623066/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6165/6198600299_b53c4db996_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6198600299/)

It's had some work done over the years. I'd say about half the original caps have been replaced. The two multi-section electrolytics are original though.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6157/6198598945_1126724d04_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6198598945/)

I decided to try something a little different with this project. Instead of shotgunning all the paper and electrolytic capacitors, I'm going to try to reform the electrolytics by powering the set up slowly over several hours. Then, assuming I get some signs of life, I'll troubleshoot the circuits that aren't working properly.

I'm also itching to give my recently restored Solar CB-1-60 a workout :)
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6175/6198858323_73f82d2c8a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6198858323/)

I've got one of that model cap checker (someone mounted a new transformer outside the case on mine) that I've been meaning to test/restore. I wonder how it compares to the heathkit C-3?

Is there an EIA code anywhere on the CRT or other tubes, indicating who manufactured them for Admiral? Is that rust on the transformer laminations?

I've got one of that model cap checker (someone mounted a new transformer outside the case on mine) that I've been meaning to test/restore. I wonder how it compares to the heathkit C-3?

There are some key precision parts in the CB-1-60 like a big tapped resistor divider and 2% capacitors. I'll post details in the Test Equipment forum in a bit.

I'm not familiar with the C-3, but I do have a Simpson 383-A Capacometer I'll be restoring.


Is there an EIA code anywhere on the CRT or other tubes, indicating who manufactured them for Admiral? Is that rust on the transformer laminations?

Here are the markings on some 6AU6s. The CRT base is marked National Video Corp. Chicago, 10BP4 while the bell is stamped "Admiral" and "S". Perhaps it's been rebuilt :scratch2:

Yes, it sure is rust. I've worked on three 20X1 chassis to date and they've all had rusty power transformers. I use a little Loctite Rust Neutralizer on them than some satin black enamel paint.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6128/6199006329_50de617d11.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6199006329/)

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6176/6199533078_ba86a99293_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6199533078/)

The reforming seems to be going OK, but I had to use light bulbs of increasing wattage because my cheapo variac died a few months ago. It blows fuses instantly when it's turned on even with no load :(
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6021/6199522322_0b499f34f5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6199522322/)

I was just curious who sold them tubes. I suppose they may have even taken lowest bids. The 6AU6's are Sylvania (EIA 312).

[edit] 939 is likely 39th week of 1949

Rust converter is good on transformers.

Thanks for the info :thmbsp:
I'm just about up to full line voltage. One can is cool while the other is just a little warm.
While waiting, I did some troubleshooting on my variac and found the problem :)
Can anyone guess what it was ?

While waiting, I did some troubleshooting on my variac and found the problem :)
Can anyone guess what it was ?

I have had no experience with Chinese made imitation Variacs, but based on experience with the Japanese imitation species that flooded US in the late 1940's and early 1950's, causes for shorted imitation Variacs in order of probability:


1) Line bypass or wiper bypass capacitor failed

2) Insulating washer on the spring loaded wiper failed

3) Incorrect wiper adjustment allowed the wiper to over extend and an arc melted a bit of solder, which shorted adjacent turns on the winding

4) Carbon wiper brush fell out and the metal holder shorted near turns on the winding


Or, finally, if the fuse blowing is not instantaneous, but takes a couple of seconds, the fuse holder spring.

James

The power cord doesn't look like it was strain releaved very well. Might have gotten pulled real hard and the connections crossed.

I have the same variac, it blows fuses when trying to power the 525 watt 21-CT-55. lol Other than that, it works well.

None of the above. The culprit was the cheap AC meter right across the output socket with no protection. The meter coil shorted out.
I clipped it out of the circuit and the variac is working again :)

Well, I was able to get a one inch high raster on the original caps. No sound or video though. First, I tested all nine electrolytics - seven are in two multi-section cans. Only the replacement cap in the center of the chassis tested good. Two others had minor leakage. The others were all open.

So I tacked in replacements for the open ones, but now I had no sound or raster! Cleaning the tarnished tuner contacts got me some good sound. but still no HV.

I then got a scope on the hor. oscillator and found it was way off frequency so I rebuilt the whole circuit and the HO circuit too.

Every single paper cap I tested was either very leaky or way off value. Only a few of the more modern replacement caps were good.

Still no HV :(

Then, while fiddling around with the focus control, I suddenly got a raster back :scratch2:

I got an ohmmeter on it and found it was open :( Rotating it fully counter clockwise would bridge the bad section and get power going through to some circuits.

I tacked in a temporary replacement and finally got a picture and sound :banana:
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6158/6201982063_b6c739f141_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6201982063/)

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6128/6201982483_e09bc3ca0b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6201982483/)

The vertical height control is maxed out and the picture is still squished so I'll tackle that circuit next.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6162/6201982277_5b711f6f6c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6201982277/)

So...You ended up recapping it. I knew you would.

60 year old caps are hopeless in my book. Why chance it?

I like that set, BTW. I'd like to find a good one to restore for my collection.

Keep at it, Bob.

Thanks. I knew I'd recap it too, just curious. I also recorded some video I'll be posting to illustrate how futile it is to try running vintage sets on the old paper caps.
As for the electrolytics, while I'm sure it is possible to reform them in some cases, I've never had any luck and don't really see the point.
Why not just replace them too while the chassis is out on the bench and not have to worry about them ?

After rebuilding the vertical circuit, I have plenty of height :)
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6026/6202384581_eaf1a2c718_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6202384581/)

Next up, remounting the restuffed cans.
I also found a number of resistors that were off 100% or more in the video IF which I replaced. So I'll go through an alignment when it's all back together.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6169/6202558273_44af8e3f8b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6202558273/)

Speaking of Solar cap analyzers, guess what I ran across when straightening up my shop last week?

http://antiqueradio.org/art/temp/SolarCB-1-60CapCheckerUnrestored.jpg

Let me know if you think it works well enough to be worth restoring. I doubt I would use it a bunch -- my attitude toward 60-year old electrolytics is that they all deserve to die the true death -- but anything with an eye tube warms my heart and I hate to have non-working things piled all over the place.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

...Let me know if you think it works well enough to be worth restoring. ...

Absolutely! I mostly use it to test mica caps. It's nice to know if the originals are really bad before trying to try down replacements with oddball values.

I think this is the first time I ever bothered to test electrolytics. It was interesting to see how much better new caps test compared to vintage ones.

Micas, OK -- I will give it a whirl. Just found a decent 20-page manual online, too.

Nice job on the TV, by the way. My first Admiral is still languishing in the back row, but I'll get to it some time before next summer.

Phil Nelson

If memory serves, the main issue with the old EL caps is the electrolyte tends to dry out. Most had a paste of water and borax(?), and the water would slowly escape or be driven out by heat as the caps got warm. Initially, of course that would be from the tubes, but as they lose efficiency, the caps start producing their own heat as well...

There was a note a while back here where someone said that oil-filled caps were rarely bad; with water-based caps, since the innards are rarely damaged, you _should_ (in theory) be able to re-hydrate them and have them work again.

Micas, OK -- I will give it a whirl. Just found a decent 20-page manual online, too.

Nice job on the TV, by the way. My first Admiral is still languishing in the back row, but I'll get to it some time before next summer.

Phil Nelson

Could you please link that manual. I'd love to read some info on it to get me fired up enough to fix mine.

Tom C.

Could you please link that manual. I'd love to read some info on it to get me fired up enough to fix mine.

Tom C.

I've created a new Solar CB-1-60 thread (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?p=3015386#post3015386) in the test equipment forum.

You'll find a link to the manual and parts list there.

Thanks! Spotted that thread first, and read all but the linked pages (I'll read those soon).

I received some salvaged controls courtesy of grimer today. They came well packed in electrolytic peanuts :)

Unfortunately, this focus control is bad too. Not totally bad though. I get the correct 0 to 1,500 ohms on one leg through the full rotation. The other leg is open so there's probably a break very near that lug.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6215/6215848791_14dcafbce5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6215848791/)


The original focus control in my 20X12 had failed too! I'm starting to suspect a design flaw :scratch2:

Time to investigate. I carefully popped open the one that originally came with this set by prying back metal tabs. Sure enough - there's a definitely break about 20 turns from one end.

This resistive (nichrome wire?) is a pain to solder so I wedged in a scrap of copper foil plated with gold. It seems to work OK, but there's a noticeable "bump" when the wiper goes over the damaged area. Luckily, this control isn't adjusted much and the damage is near one end.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6173/6202899144_21ae88af94.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6202899144/)

I'll pop open the one from grimer too and try to repair it. Whichever works better will end up in the set.

Yep, the control from grimer had a break is almost exactly the same spot! Once again, a gold plated copper shim did the trick :)
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6174/6216177019_3691d4ffec.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6216177019/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6051/6216693284_1e57ba1a76.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6216693284/)

That's a pretty ingenious solution to that problem. I'll have to remember that trick. I suppose one would also be able to limit the travel of the wiper by putting a block of some plastic superglued to the inside of the control.

According to Sams, the focus control in later production units was 4w/1350 ohm. Early was 2w/1500 ohm.
So, you might want to put in a 4 watt pot. I have had the 4 watt burn out
also. I have found 4w/1500 ohm ww focus controls from other sets of the same
brand as used in the Admiral, and been able to remake a good control.
Your solution looks good.

I do have just one spare of those 4W variety. It's noticeably beefier and I'm going to use it in my 20X12. I'll use one of these 2 watters in this set and hope it holds up.

youtube vids?

I finished a total recap and replace many out of spec resistors.
I added a 220 ohm resistor to one leg of the focus pot to compensate for the shorted windings in the damaged area.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6047/6304770807_a5c4a348e2_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6304770807/)

The linearity is pretty good.
The horizontal is off a little (squares on the left are wider than on the right), but the linearity adjustment coil doesn't have much of an effect.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6233/6304771115_03fc4dec60_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6304771115/)

Here's a multi-burst bandwidth test at 0.5, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.58 and 4.2 MHz.
Curious that the middle bars (2.0 MHz) are less distinct. I suspect the IF has a pronounced double hump response.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6039/6304771327_29a17468de_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6304771327/)


youtube vids?

part 1 (http://youtu.be/RskWnje7Ez8)
part 2 (http://youtu.be/YXWX1YasFk4)

Still working on part 3. It will cover alignment.

I finished with the alignment. Here's the video IF response before and after.
It really wasn't that bad to begin width. The service info calls for the peaks to be within 30% of each other. I tweaked the coils to equalize the height, but the only way to get a flattop is to kill the bandwidth.

My scope is set for 1 MHz / div so the bandwidth at 50% is about 3.2 MHz just as the service info calls for.

I suspect the IS was a design compromise to fit the chassis into a relatively small cabinet. The Admiral 20A1/20B1 stagger tuned chassis I've restored previously perform better. Then again those sets use a split chassis with plenty of room for more complex circuits.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6211/6307773479_8bdbea39e9_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6307773479/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6046/6310588125_58589efc58_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6310588125/)

The picture is prrety good except for some faint diagonal interference lines.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6230/6311108918_bd0ac63eca_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6311108918/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6233/6310588561_52cc2e04a8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6310588561/)

Bob - You have a nice clean chassis a couple of pictures back. How did you get it that way?

Bob - You have a nice clean chassis a couple of pictures back. How did you get it that way?

I got lucky this time - no rust! I just used a damp rag to clean the the top of the chassis, yoke, tubes etc. The underside was already nice and clean.

I've been getting little shocks when my hand brushes against the CRT. I figured it was just static build up since the air is dry.
When I removed the CRT to replace the rock hard mounts, I discovered the CRT grounding wire was missing!
Here's one from another set. It's a short, curved piece of strong wire that hooks into the chassis and makes firm contact with the aquadag CRT coating.

I fabricated a replacement and no more shocks :)

With the CRT out I was able to scrape of the old mounts and clean up the chassis. Then I cut some new mounts from a sheet of neoprene and glued them down with GC rubber-to-metal glue.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6115/6330801539_0f506af757_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6330801539/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6111/6346442092_801da7415f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6346442092/)


I also popped out the tuner for some cleaning and replaced a few out of spec resistors. It's pretty cramped in there!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6019/6331555706_4fa59fc65a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6331555706/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6096/6332337451_0031fd9b4b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6332337451/)

Then, I finished up the alignment. Here's the equipment I used.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6103/6333088682_851b873764_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6333088682/)

Here are some post alignment screen shots.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6119/6330808151_d8abffb45f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6330808151/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6219/6333089152_9c73286824_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6333089152/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6051/6332338897_2f70998dce_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6332338897/)

I'm calling the electronics of this set done. Now on to cleaning up the cabinet.

Nice sharp picture. Another one for the showroom.

That Tuner looks exactly like the one in my 1949 era Emerson 639. Wonder if these tuners are the same and if they were simply common parts used by lots of manufacturers. I took my tuner apart and then lost one of the two wires that holds it together. I fabricated a wire. Later I found the one I lost and plan to some day replace it back.

Carl




...
I also popped out the tuner for some cleaning and replaced a few out of spec resistors. It's pretty cramped in there!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6019/6331555706_4fa59fc65a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6331555706/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6096/6332337451_0031fd9b4b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6332337451/)

...

Lookin' good, Bob.

I'm pretty sure that's a Standard Coil turret tuner. I think Standard Coil was the name of an independent tuner manufacture.

Thanks guys :)

That Tuner looks exactly like the one in my 1949 era Emerson 639. Wonder if these tuners are the same and if they were simply common parts used by lots of manufacturers. I took my tuner apart and then lost one of the two wires that holds it together. I fabricated a wire. Later I found the one I lost and plan to some day replace it back.

Carl

No matter how careful I am, I keep losing bits and pieces too. I rarely find them later though :(

Here's a photo of my 639. It sure looks like the same tuner :yes:
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6008/6018608938_094d2e8435_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6018608938/)

Lookin' good, Bob.

I'm pretty sure that's a Standard Coil turret tuner. I think Standard Coil was the name of an independent tuner manufacture.

Bingo! I was flipping through a copy of "Television Receiver Servicing" by Milton S. Kiver and found a couple pages describing this tuner in detail.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6047/6332649475_ab9276d72d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6332649475/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6117/6332649661_533d9cc3f8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6332649661/)

What is this?

http://antiqueradio.org/art/temp/Gizmo.jpg

Phil Nelson

P.S. Nice picture.

What is this?

http://antiqueradio.org/art/temp/Gizmo.jpg

Phil Nelson

P.S. Nice picture.

It's a Wavetek 1002 sweep generator (specs (http://www.testequipmentconnection.com/tecspecs/WAVETEK_1002.PDF)). It works great and was my main generator until I picked up a much newer Wavetek 1080 with the nifty VFD readouts.

Those big knobs remind me of some parts of the human anatomy. I wonder what was on the cabinet designers mind at the time that was thought up?......:scratch2:

:D The larger knobs do make it easier to dial in a frequency.

Here's all the stuff pictured.

Wavetek 1080 sweep generator
Wavetek 1002 sweep generator

HP 54600B oscope

Heathkit IG-102 RF gen.
Leader 17A RF gen.

Kikusui 1120 frequency couter

RCA VoltOhmyst VTVM (off camera)

Bob -

Is there a black cap hiding underneath that tuner? If so, what value is it?

Bob -

Is there a black cap hiding underneath that tuner? If so, what value is it?

You mean the thing in the center of the photo where the drum is taken out ? That's a coil of wire encased in some black goo.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6019/6331555706_4fa59fc65a_z.jpg

You mean the thing in the center of the photo where the drum is taken out ? That's a coil of wire encased in some black goo.
Possibly an RF choke on a B+ or heater feed through?

Yes, I think that is the heater choke. The is also one on the B+ somewhere in there.

Those big knobs remind me of some parts of the human anatomy. ...

That reminds me of a T shirt the girlfriend of one of the members of our college ham radio club had made up. Seems she thought that her ham boyfriend was not paying her enough attention, and that he was spending too much time on the ham radio. Working the transmitter knobs "Tune" and "Load"... So she wore this next time she met him ;-)
http://www.wa2ise.com/radios/tuneload.gif

:lmao: Yeah, if a gal ever tries to get my attention in that "creative" of a manner she will have and retain my attention indefinitly....That fellow is both dense, and lucky to have his girl that despret for attention and not have gotten dumped.

The cabinet is pretty scratched up - especially on top. Bad enough that I decided to do some wet sanding.

I used some 400 on the worst areas, then worked through 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grits. That got all but the deepest scratches out.

Then I buffed it with some Novus #2. I still need to clean out grooves, but otherwise it's looking good I think.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6096/6346439550_da7a213918_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6346439550/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6093/6345689945_87950b784e_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6345689945/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6111/6346440744_5602edaa49_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6346440744/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6112/6346441164_1cfc4e3ccf_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6346441164/)

I hope I can get the scratches out of the faceplate too.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6056/6345691703_2baff91401_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6345691703/)

...

I hope I can get the scratches out of the faceplate too.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6056/6345691703_2baff91401_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6345691703/)

Bob,

I have two faceplates for my Admiral 26R12. Both have a few scratches. But when I look at them with bright light shining through, it appears that the clear plastic is not completely clear. Both have a little bit of a cloudy swirl in them. Mind you, not much but if you look carefully, it is there. It is not bad mind you and the plastic cleaned up nicely.

Would you mind scrutinizing yours as well and see if the clear plastic is what we may call, "Crystal Clear" please?

It seems pretty clear to me. Also, here's the plastic in the 16R12 I've started working on. It's clear as well. Mind you I haven't cleaned it yet and it's quite dirty.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6222/6347969895_6eaae2d557_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6347969895/)

Here's the cabinet after some more buffing and Meguirs tech wax. Seems to me it made it more cloudy than shiny.
Other guys swear by Magnolia Glayzit so I'll give that a try although I've had bad results in the past.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6232/6347983761_6e16d95e82_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6347983761/)

It seems pretty clear to me. Also, here's the plastic in the 16R12 I've started working on. It's clear as well. Mind you I haven't cleaned it yet and it's quite dirty.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6222/6347969895_6eaae2d557_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6347969895/)

...

Bob,

Look through it in a bright light please. I think that yours looks similar to mine. Yes, both of our faceplates are the same. Mine kinda looks like it was cleaned but not very good. Something like it is smeared.

Ever clean the windshield on your car when it was sitting in the sun? No matter how hard you try, it comes out smeary. Maybe I am being over critical but just a question. Quite frankly, it is probably the way it is supposed to be! In the late 40s early 50s, plastic was still relatively new. Thanks for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate it.

I think the cabinet looks great. Of course once you sand it, it seems you never get the original depth of finish back. Then again it's better than looking at deep scratches.

Now I'm curious how you're going to clean out those grooves. I would not be looking forward to that step. :no: :D

Ever clean the windshield on your car when it was sitting in the sun? No matter how hard you try, it comes out smeary.
I have used Novus Plastic Polish #2 on all sorts of plastic screen covers and radio dial covers. Makes 'em nice and clear.

Phil Nelson

I think the cabinet looks great. Of course once you sand it, it seems you never get the original depth of finish back. Then again it's better than looking at deep scratches.

Now I'm curious how you're going to clean out those grooves. I would not be looking forward to that step. :no: :D

I've had pretty good luck with sanding brown bakelite, but this black stuff seems less forgiving.

Cleaning out those grooves isn't as bad as the honeycomb on a 19A11 cabinet. I can get most of it out by running a thumbnail wrapped in a thin rag. I get any remaining crud out with toothpicks.

I have used Novus Plastic Polish #2 on all sorts of plastic screen covers and radio dial covers. Makes 'em nice and clear.

Phil Nelson

I've had good luck with Novus #2 on these old plastic screens too.

Bob,

It sure looks good. I am with you, have to cringe when you start working on Bakelite wondering if it will ultimately shine up. There was a "shiny" surface on the stuff when it was new. You hate to break the shine. But you hate scratches as well. I have a 26R12 with a very nice cabinet. But it has a large scratch on the top. I have been reluctant to work on the scratch. You have inspired me, Thanks!

Have not tried this, but I'm wondering if a few deep scratches could be filled in with several coats of clear or toned lacquer using a small brush. Then level with 600 and finer papers. At least the lacquer can be wiped off with lacquer thinner if it looks bad. I suppose an alkyd varnish would also work and require less build up.

Bob,

It sure looks good. I am with you, have to cringe when you start working on Bakelite wondering if it will ultimately shine up. There was a "shiny" surface on the stuff when it was new. You hate to break the shine. But you hate scratches as well. I have a 26R12 with a very nice cabinet. But it has a large scratch on the top. I have been reluctant to work on the scratch. You have inspired me, Thanks!

If it's just one or two scratches, I wouldn't advise sanding. I've only sanded sun blasted, scuffed, and very scratched cabinets.

My before photos on this cabinet really don't show the full extend of the scratches. There were dozens.

I was very hesitant to ever try it too, but I read numerous other restoration threads where others swore it works great.

Here are some example of others cabinets I've sanded. The first one I ever tried was this damaged and faded Motorola 9T1. I figured I didn't have anything to lose.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2792/4159492652_6020685ab2.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/4159492652/) http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1371/4729051815_c8a9f9bbfa.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/4729051815/)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4914494331_89a126a32f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/4914494331/) http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4915137738_b2981d35f5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/4915137738/)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4892723547_0d6c908347.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/4892723547/) http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4892724543_8ba20f8ff7.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/4892724543/)


Have not tried this, but I'm wondering if a few deep scratches could be filled in with several coats of clear or toned lacquer using a small brush. Then level with 600 and finer papers. At least the lacquer can be wiped off with lacquer thinner if it looks bad. I suppose an alkyd varnish would also work and require less build up.

I've been wondering about that too. I've seen plenty of examples where cracks and voids were filled in with epoxy or super glue and sanded, but then primed and painted. Never read about attempts to retain the original bakelite look.

I guess I'll give it a go on this cabinet :(
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4704656817_10cafd8254.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/4704656817/)

Some people have tried mixing ground-up Bakelite with adhesive. Here's one discussion at ARF:

http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=168408

Regarding Glayzit, I bought some and tried it a couple of times. Not impressed.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Interesting. Beyond me why he went to 2,000 grit and buffed out with Mothers Mag Wheel polish, just to spray primer on. I would think primer would stick to rough bakelite a lot better.

I agree about Glayzit. When I mentioned my poor results with it on ARF, several members rushed to defend it so I though I'd give it another try.

Here are the listed ingredients. Seems to me it's just mineral oil, wax and some propellants.

Heptane
Hydrotreated Light Petroleum
Water
Mineral Oil
Propane
N-butane

I have both the brown and black cabinet for this tv. The brown one is scratched on top but is original to the chassis. I'm wondering which color would be more desired? I'm thinking the black knobs went on both colors?

Cool! Do you have the chassis for both of them too ? I'd never seen the black model until I got mine a couple months ago. Yours is the 4th I've seen since then so now I'm not sure which is rarer.

Brown knobs go with the brown cabinet. They're much more common than the black knobs if you need some.

Anyone know if there are any differences between the 20X1 and 20Z1 chassis, other than the control locations?

Anyone know if there are any differences between the 20X1 and 20Z1 chassis, other than the control locations?

The 20X1, 20Y1 and 20Z1 chassis are pretty much identical. Sams lumps the all together in the same folder.

I've pretty much finished buffing out the cabinet. The grooves were actually pretty easy to clean out.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6103/6352101745_fb64660ffe.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6352101745/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6050/6352101849_d60fd69896.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6352101849/)

Here's a closeup of an area that was sanded and one that was just polished.
I wonder if something like black shoe polish would help any :scratch2:
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6222/6352846334_554c21ba71.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6352846334/) http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6235/6352101955_54242b33aa.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6352101955/)

It looks very nice as is.

Personally I sort of like a duller satin look on Bakelite, especially after dust settles on it, because there's always dust around here. :D

Yeah, I know what you mean ;) That's another reason I don't like using oils or waxes on bakelite - the dust sticks to it.

I cleaned up the brass outer knobs with Brasso followed by Simichrome.
I let the inner knobs soak in some diluted 409 then buffed with Novus #2.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/6401460673_b1de0ee9f4_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6401460673/) http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6213/6401463145_60d2c2d68a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6401463145/)

The power cord is all brittle and cracking. Luckily, I have some NOS replacements.
I carefully removed the old cord while preserving the rivets.
I read that it was possible to soften the replacements in hot water and mush them over the old brass rivets.
It actually worked :D
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7027/6403061259_e203500ea6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403061259/) http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6231/6403061757_2e49656238_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403061757/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/6403061941_e8a2180713_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403061941/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6403062593_a7da0fe11b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403062593/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7168/6403063007_2d645d8262_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403063007/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7171/6403063479_9a83fe8cfb_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403063479/)

next, I replaced the old crumbly faceplate foam with some closed cell insulation held on by contact cement.
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6101/6403064157_a9048659f6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403064157/) http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6037/6403580839_2621ca3fdd_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403580839/)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7153/6403581161_fe6d30bc9d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403581161/) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6403692683_f1553837a5_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6403692683/)

And so another project comes to an end :)

I must say that's some mighty fine TV restoration work there. :yes:

Does that semi chrome keep the brass from tarnishing for a reasonable time, or do you end up clear coating with lacquer?

Thanks. The Simichrome can claims it will prevent tarnish from returning. I suppose the longest I've had bare brass treated with Simichrome is 2 years and it looks OK. I have coated some knobs with Mohawk lacquer formulated for brass and they look like new after a couple years too. Time will tell.

Bob, as usual, that set looks and functions super. Good Job! and thanks for the tip on how to replace the cheater cord. I don't have those rivets either so I had to resort to something not as pretty. You can bet I will try your trick for sure!

Just curious - where did you find those cheater cords? It's not like you can go to Wal Mart and buy em.:scratch2:

Bob, as usual, that set looks and functions super. Good Job! and thanks for the tip on how to replace the cheater cord. I don't have those rivets either so I had to resort to something not as pretty. You can bet I will try your trick for sure!

Thanks! I have to give credit for the hot water tip to Tom Albrecht (http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=149927) This is the first time I've tried it and it worked even better than I expected :)

Just curious - where did you find those cheater cords? It's not like you can go to Wal Mart and buy em.:scratch2:

I got lucky on eBay last year. I think I paid $4 each for a few Belden cords from a seller that had dozens. I also scored a 20 assortment pack.

Maybe try setting up a search on eBay for "cheater cords" with email alerts. I'm sure some will pop up eventually.

Another excellent restoration project Bob, I've been following this one on You Tube as well... You must be seeing Admiral TV's behind your eyelids by now when you close them!:D
Out of curiosity how big are these sets dimension wise? I'm guessing they're quite compact going by the pictures...
Great stuff anyway, I always enjoy your posts/videos. :yes:
Cheers Glen

Thanks. Yeah, I've pretty much memorized the schematic by now. It's nice to have a couple of the same chassis for comparison.
It is pretty small as vintage TVs go - about 18" deep, 15" tall and 14" wide.

Excellent work! Your set seems to have just left the factory:thmbsp:

Hey Bob - I've been working on my Admiral tuner and I noticed in your vid "Admiral 20x11 restoration part 4 of 5", it doesn't appear that you put parts M!05 and M113 back on (the clip and the washer) at12:09 in the vid. I do see you remove them (at least the washer) in 10:48. Am I missing something? I was trying to figure out how mine went back in. :scratch2:

I think I forgot to put them back on when I recorded the video, but I did later. I could take some photos if that would help.

I'm thinking the spring wire went on first, then the washer, then the rotor contact plate, then the rotor assembly. But a picture would be good.

You got it :yes:

http://www.bobandersen.com/images/admiral%2020x12/admiral_20X11_tuner.jpg

Yeah - mine is correct :thmbsp: Hate to have to pull that out again. I changed out all the resistors except one Sunday and reinstalled it. Still get multiple images though. I'll figure it out. That's part of the fun and the "why I do this" .

I just picked up this little Regency antenna booster. I'm surprised how well it matches the styling of the Admiral TV.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7190/6802300966_65656e97d9_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/6802300966/)

Set Looks Great! Where did you get the insulation foam? I can think of a few places I could use it. Is it fairly soft?

Thanks! Menards I think. It's fairly stiff closed cell foam. They also have some square stuff with a self adhesive strip that's very soft I've used on other sets. Either way, it provides some cushion between the glass CRT and the cabinet.