This is a update of what is a very old thread. I have No HV. The Horiz osc coil was bad and has been replaced. I have my osc back again, but No HV. All caps have been replaced and some even subed again. Resistors replaced as needed and HOT and damper sub'd. I have 100 v pp drive to the HOT grid and cathode voltage about 2.8 volts. I can tease some slight HV RF off the plate of the HOT and HV rect. with an insulated tool. The HV trans checks reasonably close resistance wise. I believe if there were shorted turns there would be excessive current draw (or smoke). Yoke resistance seems close also.
This was working and stopped (due to the osc coil) and the osc coil was replaced. Wiring has been checked, checked and rechecked along with component values. I am overlooking something and hope there is an educated bit of experience out there that can be of help. I was in the biz for a number of years and Im a bit supprised this is eatin my lunch!

I'm sure this is the wrong track, but does that set use a doorknob cap?

If you pull the plate cap connector off the 1X2, can you draw a healthy 'air arc' off it with the insulated tool? If not (please forgive the dumb question), have you checked the screen grid voltage on the H.output tube?
Can you open the cathode leg of the H.out tube to insert a milliameter? (An analog type meter is preferable since digital meters tend to go nuts on compound waveforms.)
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Bad HV rectifier?

I'm sure this is the wrong track, but does that set use a doorknob cap?

Yes it does - 500 pF, 10,000 volt cap plus a 1X2 rectifier. Certainly if either is bad it will effect the HV.

I removed the HV rect and still no really good RF tease from the HOT plate . Cathode volts is low so I suspect the current is low also but I will check. The horizontal drive is suspiciously high (100 v pp), could the have the HO tube so far into cut off that its not conducting. Diagram says 30 v pp.

If I try to ring the HV trans, What should the setup be. I have a square wave generator and a scope and it,s been 40 years since Ive done it. Should ALL the wires be disconected?.

Replaced the HO tube again and I now have High Voltage, Its low but I have it. I've cheched the wiring, yoke horiz winding resistance, and flyback resistance, sub'd the coupling cap again. All I see is a lone vertical line from top to bottom of the screen. Ideas? Thoughts?

Another dumb question:o, but is there any chance the yoke coulda gotten rotated 90 degrees?

You could check that by pulling the vert output tube.

That is a very good thought. Its good to think outside the box. In answer, the dust is still on top of the yoke and if I adjust the vertical hold I can observe a dim spot that I can make move up or down. I know on more contemporary tube sets if the horizontal coils were disconected there would be no HV at all. I am quite supprised that there is enough going through the core for Hi voltage sake, yet I have Zero horizontal sweep on the CRT. I would think even 1 shorted turn would kill the HV or greatly distort the sweep, but not eliminate sweep. I will be rechecking wiring again and comparing some photos I took before the rebuild. Again, any thoughts and ideas are welcome. Sometimes a new set of eyes, real or virtual, will find something I'm systematicaly overlooking. Thanks for your input guys.

So, still thinking outside the box, open horiz section on the yoke? Circuit upset, so low effeciency, so low HV. (and no deflection) I'd check the interconnects to the yoke horiz windings.. (and the resistance of both halves)

An open or disconnected yoke was what I was thinking too.

I had a similar problem with a set recently and found a break inside the yoke housing right near one of the horizontal lugs. Luckily, I was able to clean up the ends and splice them back together.

With the HO Tube pulled will the osc frequency and shape be as posted in the service diagram? This osc circuit seems VERY similar to the CT-100, as well as the other B&W sets of the era (Syncro-guide). The frequency is off. What I'm trying to do is get it as close as possible before connecting the HO tube. I know there is some feedback involved from the flyback used with the sync signal to maintain Lock, but I'm thinging coarse freq should be close. When the frequency and drive gets right I'll reconect and see if the single line situation is corrected. I have checked wiring and components over and over.