yep, another combo, very nice and not quite an aircraft carrier, more like a destroyer sized. Anyway not gaudy at all, very clean design. Its in the back of the X so will get some pics after I unload.

U45-43-LP
21GUP22 test great, the reading was at 5v no sign of cataract.

if anybody has a HV cage for this chassis please let me know.

Is the HV rectifier cracked, or is it just an optical illusion?

WHY would someone do that to a color set?

looks cloudy, have not checked it out close. Dont know why anyone would pull the cage and leave it off, unless there was some work done, and just did not want to bother.

I would bet with some minor modification one of the Packard Bell flybacks would drop right in there and work. (Not saying or suggesting its bad) This is an RCA clone, dont let the mirror image chassis setup fool you. I looked of the Sams and its full on RCA. The fly could be closer to the 16 than the 17-35 but you could get the later one to work. It also looks like the can is open on the top on the sams.

The sams I sent you has a SS focus rectifier so its not exact but should be really close. I cant find any of the numbers you sent me listed.

Rectifier looks bad, nice looking set though!

A combo stain is something that happens when you pull up to the house with another one. Yes I know its spam.

Cool looking set :) They never really made combos like this here in NZ.

slow cooking on the variac, HOT pulled, VOT pulled, about 40vac. current nice and low so at least no shorts, filaments can bee seen glowing so at least that is working. filter cans staying cool. will ramp up a bit more later and then try a full power startup and see how it goes.

at first the HV would not come up, so wiggled some tubes, then tried again, ah the nice cracking sound. Hooked up the converter box, Rockford comes on (the worst episode ever, "just a couple of guys". Horz not right so adj and it locks in (weak lock and some phasing issues when on freq). Vert is solid. Color lock is weak as well (makes since if the horz is acting up, if I understand how it works a pulse of the fly gates the burst amp off and on, so if that is a bit out of whack the burst amp could be wacked.

it would be all b&W, (adj fine tune to just eliminate the 920kz beat freq) then rainbowing then color lock but again weak.

Picture was narrow as well, but that maybe the variac I am using, its not my heavy duty one (it has a built in isolation transformer and its metered for VAC and current). So I just try full line voltage later. If that does not increase the width I will need to do some B+ checking etc...

But for now its promising. I will prob pull the chassis after the full powr check out and go over it, I know there will be some caps I want to replace at the very least the horz coupling to the HOT and some of those high voltage ceramic tube paper caps in the vert circuit. I will install a B+ fuse and a fuse to the HOT like I did on the CTC-16. Will of course check all the filter caps.

The Vert looked very good, no spreading of lines and height and lin looked fine. I will still replace at least the lytic on the vert cathode bypass, its one of the paper wrapped metal tube types. Its easy so may as well get to it.

before powering it up I did check the HV tubes and the horz osc tube, all checked fine. while the chassis is out I will of course go thru all the tubes and clean the sockets and pins.

Interesting that its chassis is "backwards", especially when it is an RCA clone.

yea its odd seeing the interlock right under the FLY. any speculation why the HV cage would be missing? there is no tube chart, anywhere so the guess is that is where it was.

I am thinking it may have a new fly, it dirty as heck but has no drippings at all, so perhaps replaced a long time ago. there wiring looks very neat, so I 1st thought it was factory, but the filament leads to the 3a3 almost look like there is a splice down near the bottom.

perhaps a high time set that was just service properly (but for the missing cage). At least it got a new CRT instead of a brightner.

Back in the day was there anyone thinking that not having the cage would be a good idea for better cooling of the fly? disregarding the X ray issues.

Rectifier looks bad, nice looking set though!


it turned out to just be white on the outside of the tube. wiped it off and it looked and tested fine.

I remember a friend of my dad having one of those in his living room in the later 60's.
Great color.When the tv died,they cut that section out of the cabinet and glued the two ends together to make a consolette stereo!

pluging into the full power (no variac dropping the voltage) resulted in a nice full rastor.

I either get No color or color bars rolling thru (no sync). It has a very soft horz lock, you can flop it both ways with the horz control so I presume the osc is working and when carefully adj it will hold but the phase is not solid (scene floats across the screen), so I presume there is a prob in the AFC on the horz, prob diodes or drifted resistors in the horz afc. I will just go a head and replace them rather than fooling around with it. My guess is the lack of solid horz lock is messing up the burst amp keying pulse from the flyback, and maybe a weak 3.58mhz crystal on top of that. I do get momentary color lock but its very fleeting. I have checked the tubes in the video/chroma, replaced one very weak 6GH8 (osc) and found a tube shield for it (was missing and not loose, darn tech...) and replace a 6WE6 that had a short that would show up after it heated up.

Tested the radio, all seemed good but for normal dirty speaker switches, but I will do a full recap of that later. I know there are a bunch of 5uf lytics in it that tend to dry up. I also will do the stereo mod to the TV selector so I can use the amp and drive it with the audio out from the DVD (will make an adapter that will allow reverting back the the interal TV audio buy just pluging it back in, did this before on the B&W maggie).

Don't mess with the crystal till you replace any suspect caps in that circuit- and they are all suspect believe you me. Sounds like the horizontal section needs caps too, I find that even with drifted resistors a stable lock should be obtainable.

So it did turn out to have more problems than initially thought. Get the horz lock thing fixed then I bet the color may lock in. You can always tweak on the color osc coil a tad and see if it pops in.
The good thing is nothing major just little annoying stuff. I have a feeling those diodes are selenium and expire form time.

I am impressed that you were able to find a color set in florida! Back when I lived there (same time I started collecting TVs) I only ever saw 3 monochrome TVs (I snaped up two, but one got away cause my car could not fit two consoles). Even in the radio belt it aint the easiest thing to find a roundy. If I were you I would have bought a lottery ticket the same day as that set, and prayed not to get struck by lightining.

Tom C.

This one came from Tenn.

tried subbing a sync sep tube (6gh8) no real improvement, so I decided to pull the chassis. 1st order of bus is to pull the speaker under the tuner/control cluster, then pull the cluster (after the confusing way its mounted using the pot shafts as mount screws. Of course all the strain reliefs were broken, no big, and of course the prior tech did not bother to replace the tuner cover (was this common practice?) perhaps due to the difficulting in removeing the tuner it was decided it just did not need a cover....

moving on to the chassis, one screw that was just barely in just a couple of turns and the chassis was loose (thanks again mister tech).

I finally get the chassis out, nice, a alligator clip wire is soldered to the center post of the video amp and burst amp tube sockets, and then the clip is on the chassis, sweet...

My guess is there was a bad ground connection maybe even a broken pcb and this was the fix. He should have at least soldered the dumb thing oh and the wire was not covered all the way with insulation, looks like a splice was done and not covered, no evidence of any electrical tape or anything. lord what a hack.

This tube socket on the bottom looks a bit funky, not sure if there was a replacement done and poor solder job or what. May account for the impromtu ground.

other than that it looks pretty original. I will see if I can clean up the sockets, reflow some solder and may as well do a better job of what ever that ground wire was all about, not to mention reflowing the solder stakes.

I have some strain reliefs so will button that up. I could not find the mounting point anywhere on the chassis for the tuner cluster.

I love the hack jobs! I have a Philco roundy that has a cracked solder somewhere on the if board, techs fix was to cram a wedge of wood between the chassis and IF can to flex the board to where it would work.

D I think you were right about this set having a lot of hours on it, guess that accounts for the new CRT.

oh I see he did attempt to solder somthing maybe even the ground stake, from the bottom, I can tell by the melted insulation of two small wires, enough so that the wire was showing thru, maybe even shorting (prob not but real real close). I will cut, splice and cover with some heat shrink.

what a HACK...

The big degausser varistor is melted and nasty looking, I have a spare. The darn tuner center lead broke, I think I got it back on the right spot (it was not a plug in type) this happned before I fixed the strain relief, prob when I was messing with it trying to mount the cluster to the chassis.

I am getting tired, and I am out of strain reliefs (need 2 more, top rack of pots and the main batch of leads coming out of the back of the chassis).

I will prob just pull the AFC diodes and call it a night.

alligator clip wire is soldered to the center post of the video amp and burst amp tube sockets, and then the clip is on the chassis.

techs fix was to cram a wedge of wood between the chassis and IF can to flex the board to where it would work.
Maybe we all should start a vintage-TV version of thereifixedit.com . :)

ok AFC diode was leaky on one side, so that should fix the horz and hopefully the color sync.

was checking over the PS caps, the doubler was def a replacement, the give away was the masking tape cover, and the fact that it was a 2 section cap tied together (I doubt the factory would do that).

I was extruding a nice rubber poop out of one of the unused slots on the bottom, looks like a heat and pressure issue, so I will be looking for a 160uf 250v AND a proper can cover. Its a bit crowded on the bottom so I will need to stuff a can.

There are a few suspect caps that will get changed out, and it still has a bumblebee .047 safety cap (I will clip the leads long and dump in on the audiophools on ebay, should get enough to buy all the caps I will need).

thats all for tonite, I checked the .001 2kv elmenco on the primary of the vert out, value right on, no fuzzyness, no leakage at 450v (which is high as I can go). I would have replaced it anyway, but I only have some dipped that go to 1.6kv, so I will have to order some of those (I dont trust them).

there was a single black plastic .01 400v sprauge in the horz osc section, it tested perfect, no leakage at 450v so I left it alone.

I am trying to not make too many changes just in case I goof something up, it was working after all but for the horz AFC.

I did check the vert osc bypass cap a 50uf 150v, tested perfect again I left it. I randomly check a few of the purple dipped caps a .47 and a .1 both 200v, they checked fine, no fuzz no leak so maybe I will get lucky on this set and dipped caps.

that bumblebee across the line was fuzzy and very leaky, I am suprised it had not blown up yet.

I did have one open cap, a 100uf nichicon 25v that I think is part of a degaussing circuit. I see a diode and a relay all tied into that blown large VDR that is around the degaussing circuit.

if anybody has a HV cage they can loan me, let me know, I would like to use it to make up a template and make my owh cage for this one.

looking a bit closer, that relay goes to the B+ circuit breaker, so my guess is its a delayed B+

popped for a full set of electros, about 35$ got that 2k vert out cap, and a new line suppression cap. This weekend it will be just the strain reliefs and the AFC, now that I have the caps on the way I will have to wait as I dont want to have to reinstall just to check it out. I really need to get my test jig installed in the shop.

I got all the caps from mouser, all radials, will stuff cut off the cans and leave the base in place, use a bone saw to do the cutting.

I will prob check 1st, if the 450v's test ok I may just leave them.

I may have the HV cover for your set. I parted out a magnavox console a while back. Your chassis looks like my parts unit. You can have the HV cover.
PM your address and I will send it to you.

Mike

PM sent :yes:

Got the horz AFC diodes in, I think I will spend some time tomorrow cleaning the crud off the PCB's really dirty. Gives me something to do while waiting for the caps. I seem to get a lot of sets with defective horz AFC diodes, whats the deal there? most of the other diodes always seem fine.

The early dual AFC diodes were selenium, but we always replaced them with 1N914's or 1N4148's from Radio Shack - they used to have them 50 to a pack for 1.99. Just use two diodes in whatever combination you are replacing, common cathode, common anode, or series. NTE177 is the analog to the 1N914's AND 1N4148's if you choose to go that route.

ECG113's ECg114's and ECG115's were the replacements back in the day. ECG updated the ECG113 to the ECG113A, a silicon replacement , when GE and International Rectifier no longer supplied the selenium ones.

I guess the epoxy packages weren't moisture-proof, or the selenium degraded somehow over time. Either way, an unstable Horizontal Hold would merit replacement if the old black epoxy package was in the set. Admiral and Sylvania Color sets always seemed to have weak hold, even with new diodes...

Cheers,

hmm I used some 1n4004's I had handy, I thought I had used those before, CTC17 and I were discussing this off line the other day, he had some concerns about the switching speed, but I though I had used them in the past.

I have been using those TO220 package dual diodes you find in modern switching mode power supplies. Mostly because I have extras. They work great.

Every tube caddy I have run into has a few of these in it. They must have been a common fail even back in the day. They are only rated at 1ma so the new high current diodes should last.

I just looked at the specs on the 1n400x series and those are really for 60hz. Im sure they will work but some fast recovery shottkys would be better.

ok I have some 1N4148's that I will use.

got the new degausser guts in (CL-90 and VDR). Replaced 3 color amp coupling caps .01 one was very lossy (would barely open the eye) the other two were not so bad, open about 80%, I figured I would do'em all.

There are 3 100k resistors that couple the plate from the color amp to the CRT, two of them look a bit toasty, and have decreased in value to 80k the ohter is 110k, so I will replace all 3 as well.

I still need to check the HOT coupling cap. After that I may hook it back up and see how its doing (hope I have not messed anything up).

I did see where the focus lead from the focus rectifier tube had broken, prob due to the way it bounces around with out the cage to hold it all steady. easy fix but just a reminder to look over work well (I found it while I was degreasing all the wiring harnesses).

the .01 horz coupling cap was about 10-15% away from fully opening (fuzzy like those other .01 I just did). These are brown dipped caps. the one that tested very bad had turned a bit dark almost black on the very top. It sat next to one of the large color amp tubes, and I suspect got a lot of heat, perhaps that is what does them in. Still no leakage at all.

I went ahead and checked a couple sections of two of the other cans, both tested fine for both value and leakage, maybe just a bit slower to open in the leakage than a new cap, but they did fully open. I am leaning towards not doing any but for the doubler which was not orig, and I dont know if it was even for the correct rated value or voltage, I would have to peel off the masking tape to see. I did pick up some 1.5" heat shrink today, will use that since I cant seem to locate a proper can cover. will of course have to make a cardboard disk for the top.

Done for the nite will try it out tomorrow to see how badly I have goofed it up.

I have been using those TO220 package dual diodes you find in modern switching mode power supplies. Mostly because I have extras. They work great.


Those switching power supplies run at or higher frequencies than TV set horizontal circuits (15734HZ). So those diodes would be an excellent choice.

back in, no HV, HOT starts to red plate. Hmm horz osc filament not on. move tube around and it comes back, HV comes back, wiggle it again, HV goes out. So it looks like the filament connection to the 6FQ7 is intermittant (prob what side lined it in the 1st place). I tried a different tube just to be sure it was not the tube itself, same deal. So I will pull the chassis and do a close up exam, my guess is a ground stake (if there is one that just feeds this tube) or maybe a loose contact pin socket. What ever it is I dont think it will be too much. Plus I have some NOS sockets that I would be willing to just replace it, esp on such an important tube. I have had tube socket failure before on this type, last time was the vert osc of a predicta. the bridge between the tube PCB pin and the actual socket can fracture, very hard to see, and the only real way to catch it is with a socket test adapter, since touching the pin sockets with a test lead will often close the cap and make it look good. I prob just got lucky the 1st time after checking the tube, and the install happened to be good (when the set was working after the inital check out). I do recal the HV was not there when I got it and I did a wiggle of the tube and it came back. Its just a bit too sensitive as is.

good vert/horz sync, good color, just some intermittant snow so prob a dirty tuner, but looking good. I will take a close look at the 6FQ7 socket next time I have it on the bench.

reflowed the 4/5 pins on that socket they looked a little cold. I also reflowed the ground stakes. Working ok, but will wait until tonight for darkness and see if I can wiggle it OFF now. I used my pick to also tighten up the sockets.

while I have good light out in the garage I plan to pull the tuner case off (I found one that fit) and clean the tuner contacts. the pots have been cleaned and lubed but for the pots on the back, I am going to leave them be for now since I dont think they get much use anyway.

Still have to find a place to mount the cathode fuse for fusing and checking the HOT.

Then once you got it all fixed up you can stand it up on end in the garage and forget all about it. Just like me.... The fixation is the escape into the diagnostic realm and the sense of accomplishment when the thing actually works. Its hard to get that when you work in a cubicle or make sandwiches for an existing.

Its to bad we cant do this for a living. The timing is a few years off, thats ok though. I would much rather get cancer from a cell phone than a stupid ass pipe.

well I have a B&W maggie astrosonic combo, so maybe I can just set this one next to it, then use depending on whats playing.

I still have a lot to do after the TV, The TT needs to be gone over, mostly just clean out the old grease, and replace. Will need a new needle for sure, I just hope the cart is ok. Then all the little caps in the stereo tuner/amp which tend to dry out. When thats all done I will see if some restore o finish will be enough for the wood work.

going to check the B+ delay to see how that is working, will post afterward.

ah ha, the relay has to do with instant on (switchable).

interesting, instant on take about 15 sec, with out it about 30, so not exactly instant. I can see all the filament barely glowing in the dark.

I'm all for disabling the instant on feature. As we all know, that really helped to kill alot of tube TV's. Congratulations, Dave, on aquiring this fine set.

Fortunitly there is a switch that disable is. I was thown by the relay in the B+, its kept off during instant on mode.

I still have a bunch of work to do, but this is prob the best cabinet I have had to start with.

Huge thanks to MikeH for the HV cover, its in perfect shape, arrived safely today.

time for an update,

its looking good, the astrosonic needs service, and I have a line pairing issue with the vertical, not bad but not right. You can adj it out with the vert hold, but I still need to look into that.

My plan is to pull the vert osc tube out (brightness down) and scope the grid signal going to the vert out and look for horz noise.

It has most of the orig caps in the feed back loop, so I can check along there as well.

I was thinking of checking the boost supply to see how it looks on the scope, I dont know this but was just thinking if the boost filter cap was weak, maybe the boost voltage would have too much horz hash on it, getting into the plate circuit of the vert osc. there are a few other decoupling caps around there as well.

I dont know how much is too much so I will prob end up having to check a set that does not have the pairing issue at all.

On an old B&W I had this problem but much worse, turned out to be a bad yoke that was leaking horz back thru the vert windings and back into the vert out transformer. that was a tough dog (for me anyway).

time for an update,

its looking good, the astrosonic needs service, and I have a line pairing issue with the vertical, not bad but not right. You can adj it out with the vert hold, but I still need to look into that.

My plan is to pull the vert osc tube out (brightness down) and scope the grid signal going to the vert out and look for horz noise.

It has most of the orig caps in the feed back loop, so I can check along there as well.

I was thinking of checking the boost supply to see how it looks on the scope, I dont know this but was just thinking if the boost filter cap was weak, maybe the boost voltage would have too much horz hash on it, getting into the plate circuit of the vert osc. there are a few other decoupling caps around there as well.

I dont know how much is too much so I will prob end up having to check a set that does not have the pairing issue at all.

On an old B&W I had this problem but much worse, turned out to be a bad yoke that was leaking horz back thru the vert windings and back into the vert out transformer. that was a tough dog (for me anyway).

Back in the day when I was servicing TVs fairly often a poor interlace problem could be fixed simply by reducing the signal vertical pulse to the sync servo. It reduced lockin range but interlace would be good to perfect throughout the range. In other words too strong a vert pulse would cause doubling.

Could the interlace issue just be a limitation of the circuit? Years ago, Consumer Reports magazine used to test for interlace quality among other things. One of their comments for some sets was "you can improve the interlace by careful adjustment of the vertical hold control". I remember having several TVs that worked that way, maybe all black-and-white sets. My brother bought a new Sony KV-1920D color TV in 1977, and I remember it was the first set I had seen where the interlace remained the same (almost perfect in that set) regardless of the vertical hold control's position within the in-sync range.

perphaps, but I know that there is variation between sets that are near clones. Its not a huge deal, but I will persue checking it out with a scope. I often find the best way is to compare to a set that does NOT have the issue (and is the same or very close in circuit). This shows up differences on the scope better than some of the iffy pics of a scope trace on sams. Mainly I want to zero in on the output form the intergrater and the B+ to look for horz noise.

Next time I fire up my CTC-16 combo, I will have to adjust its vertical hold and see how its interlace is affected, if at all, and how good it is in any case.

got a pretty strong single ghost about 3/4" offset on the right. Turning the color down and its still there so I assume its in the Y channel. going to try a new video amp tube just to see if it has any effect. Maybe a faulty delay line?

its such a big cabinet I dont really want to move it and pull the chassis.

I guess I could try injecting a signal starting at the output from the video amp and start working back, but maybe easier to just put up a test pattern and see if I can see the ring, if so then work back.

Its not really a ring, as its only one ghost, more like a reflected signal. Maybe a tuner issue?

Do you have a telephone sitting on top of the set?

Do you have a photo you can share of the screen?

here it is

Looks like IF ghosting, my CTC-4 does the same thing just not as noticeable.

very common issue with our older sets.you could tweak the coils but i really wouldnt mess with them too much.can you lessen them with fine tuning?when cable came into vogue in the late 70s,i had to tweak many of these to clear the picture up.many hours twisting and turning.

I dont think I could tune it out, not sure but I think I tried that. the fine tuning is very touchy, not sure if its a stripped gear or something else, I never cared for the fine tuning knob inside the channel select knob used on maggies. I will go back in and double check to make sure I have all the tube shields in place. other than this one issue it has one of the best pics of my roundies. It also does NOT have the line pairing issue I am fighting on the sylvania. the deflection boards are idenical as far as the circuit, but for a 80uf (sylvaniia) vs a 50uf( maggie) cathode bypass cap AND a .002 disc cap that bypasses the vert hold control (on the maggie, not on the sylvania). other than that they are the same. The sync pulse output has a different resistor value (39k maggie, 220k sylvania) to ground. Perhaps attenuating the sync pulse more in the maggie. the both have VDR's on the plate return circuit of the multivibrator, I have a replacement on the way for the sylvania on the outside chance that somehow that is causing my pairing issues. I hope to get the sylvania in the same room as the maggie and do some side by side comparisons. I may do the .002 bypass on the vert hold just to see if it makes any difference. I just checked the ctc-16 also has a .0022 cap bypassing the vert hold pot...

tried the fine tuning, you have to de tune so far out to lose the ghost that all color is gone and fine detail it gone as well.

here are some more screen shots, its not too noticiable

I'd call it good, personally.

I tried a new 3rd IF no change. it does not have a shield over the 3 IF, and the tube socket did not seem to have a ground contract, so I assume that is correct. Put one on it anyway, no change. I did not try 1st or 2nd IF tubes yet. Will give that a try, if that does not do it I will just call it ok for now. Oh also tried the video amp (6GH8) with a couple others inclding a 6EA8, it has a shield which was in place, again no change.

A ghost that is that clearly defined, it seems to me, must be delay line related. Rather than the line itself, I would check the resistors and any fixed coils associated with the delay line, especially on the output end.

Edit - also check grounds in the video section

roger that, will check out around the output of the delay line.

there is a 1800 ohm 5% right after the delay line (back thru a coil then the plate circuit B+ of the 2nd video amp. there is also a 2200ohm resistor across a peaking coil after the coupling cap from the delay line that goes to the grid of the video out, will check that one as well (prob did not check before since it was in P with the coil so will have to take out of circuit to check, same with the 1800 ohm (will have to take out of circuit, will prob just replace both).

Question, do those need to be carbon comp resistors? or will metal film be ok?

(the post delay line and the one across the peaking coil).

there is a 1800 ohm 5% right after the delay line (back thru a coil then the plate circuit B+ of the 2nd video amp. there is also a 2200ohm resistor across a peaking coil after the coupling cap from the delay line that goes to the grid of the video out, will check that one as well (prob did not check before since it was in P with the coil so will have to take out of circuit to check, same with the 1800 ohm (will have to take out of circuit, will prob just replace both).

Question, do those need to be carbon comp resistors? or will metal film be ok?

(the post delay line and the one across the peaking coil).

Metal film will do just fine

I tried a new 3rd IF no change. it does not have a shield over the 3 IF, and the tube socket did not seem to have a ground contract, so I assume that is correct. Put one on it anyway, no change. I did not try 1st or 2nd IF tubes yet. Will give that a try, if that does not do it I will just call it ok for now. Oh also tried the video amp (6GH8) with a couple others inclding a 6EA8, it has a shield which was in place, again no change.
Have you tried tweaking the mixer plate coil in the tuner? Sometimes an eighth of a turn either way will make a major improvement in the IF response curve (operative word is 'sometimes').
oc

I will flag the alignment tool and give that a try if the before mentioned delay line parts make no change.

I have a 1076 that I could also use by injecting at the video out and work back, just have not bothered to get it out.

I have a 1076 that I could also use by injecting at the video out and work back, just have not bothered to get it out.

Dave, I had assumed that you were injecting video.

Two simple checks that you might do prior to twisting coils:

Back in the pre-Cable era, before grounded feed lines, the tuner balun coils often failed. You might verify the continuity of them. An open antenna-side coil will often work quite well, but it may produce a ghost.

Also, I presume that this set has an FM radio. Many console FM radios offered the option of an internal antenna for local reception, plus a jumper to connect to the VHF TV antenna for fringe reception. I've seen set owners forget to disable the internal FM antenna when using an external antenna and this can also create a single negative picture ghost.

Jas.

ant not connected, using a 300/75 matching transformer to connect from cable from converter box to set. I will check the balun next time I pull it out for the other stuff.

well the 1800 5% resistor of the back of the delay line had indeed drifted, was 2200, I had high hopes, replace it, still there, maybe a bit better but hard to say, prob me just wanting to thing it did something. there is a peaking coil after the delay line, but its got built in resistor so I cant test the resistor (one of those sqaure types with the resistor on the top, covered up.

The only thing I can think to do next is to get a good hard patter, like vert bars from the pattern generator, and see if I can see the ghost on the scope, then signal trace to see if I can find where it comes in.

while I had it out I decided to check the horz current, was only 175ma and that was at full line voltage. There was a top for 120vac and 128vac on an exposed term strip, for fun I tried 128vac, could not get the full raster, so put it back. 175ma is plenty good anyway. Maybe my HOT is getting weak.

and a new problem the vert has intermittant shakes (pic will be fine then just dims slightly and gets shaky) tapped around could not find any tubes. I was even thinking maybe the HV (boost voltage used for the vert). reseated the vert tube nothing. I am thinking of HV only because of the funny dimming that takes place when its shaking. will put the hv meter on it and see. the spells last a few seconds then stop for a short time then a few seconds...

did not clear up after warming up for 30min. this is new...

Sorry the resistor didn't cure the ghost.

Dimming and vertical shaking -- could it be AGC instead of HV?

no this is somethingn very odd going on, I just timed it, every 20 seconds I get a vert shake that last about 3 seconds, its like clockwork.

I have had odd bends (hulas I call them) that seem to be a beat freq of the vert rate vs the line rate, slow moving weaves.

argh...

when I had the hula it was a bad ground on the defection board of a mid 60's B&W maggie.

yep still doing it, every 20 seconds it gets the shakes for about 3 seconds.

Yes, this sounds like 60 cycle hum getting in somewhere and rolling through due to the 59.94 Hz vertical of NTSC. Need to check grounds, but also power supply hum.

this is getting strange, I scope the 405v B+ get the normal amount of ripple then bang 3 seconds of wild fluctions. take out the 3rd IF (no sync) same deal. then I scope the power line (thru an isolation transformer), sure enough garbage on the line now time to go try another set in another room, yep, same deal (this is another CTC-16) ok looks like something somewhere is messing with my power line. I am near a few real hogs (universal studios).

I think I will stop now and try again tomorrow.

I plugged in my line meter, yup, like clock work, I even notice my shop light dimming. I checked to see if there was a piece of equipment (pool pump, AC compressor) that maybe was thermal cycling, but all seems ok. going to try a few differnt outlets. not seeing anything on the modern sets, but I would assume they have better power regulation.

hmm had a lighting storm around the time this started, could the power compay be having a issue? maybe something cycling do to a lighning strike?

I wonder if this is the line frequency change thing that was going to screw the clocks up. Very doubtful, just a thought.
Scope the line and see whats going on there.

Wow how wierd is this, freaky computer printer. unplugged it an all is good.

it was on the same circuit as the tv. so now I am back to the ghost again.

funny thing, while looking for a source of AC hum, I did a check of all the tubes for HK shorts, one of the 3 6GH8's (big suprise there) and a 6UA6 (sound board) had shorts. Did not seem to matter. Of course maybe the short just as not that bad.

Wow how wierd is this, freaky computer printer. unplugged it an all is good.


I have seen laser printers pull down the line when printing, enough to make fluorescent lights flicker, but I assume you weren't printing anything at the time.

correct not printing but it has been acting up somewhat, and my UPS recently died (it was not that old less than a year). perhaps the printer had been stressing it out. I just recently unplugged it from the UPS after it died and plugged directly into the same power strip that the TV was on. Lesson learned, big time.

it was not just pulling it down either, I mean it was trashing the B+, worse that when the AC comes on,which just drops the vert size a tad but this was really disturbing the heck out of the set, more like something was arcing. Flickering sound about right. oh well, like I said its just one more thing to file into what can go wrong.

Do you have one of those new power meters that they can read through the power line? They cause all kinds of strange anomalies. My electric panel sometimes makes a loud 60 cycle hum for no reason. Nothing but a few lights on and the AC not running. My friend 30 miles away said ever since they installed the new meter, his plasma TV acts up on a very timely cycle. Acts like the power supply is going but it's not. The meters are read quite often automatically.

more hi tech garbage, bet its made in china...