I picked this up in Seattle for $4.00 It came with the remote and a color brochure
of the sets from it's time. It does have a cataract but I do have a extra tube that does not.. I will put in it for now. The tube in it has excellent emissions over 80 on all three guns and a quick worm up time so I will be doing the cataract removal trick on it. The Remote looks like it would use a AA batterie but it says use a RCA 1334 does anyone know if a AA batterie will work or what would?

Update... I replaced all the Electrolytic Caps and picture tube and all systems are go:banana: even the remote works with the AA Batterie. This set produces a verry nice picture to.

wow what an EXCELLANT score!!

Very nice set !!

---

RCA vs1334 are carbon-zinc AA batteries. Any AA batteries should work.

I love all the early remote sets!

RCA vs1334 are carbon-zinc AA batteries. Any AA batteries should work.
Thanks for the Batterie advice the AA Batterie works

A television of the upper caste no doubt! :banana: I am thinking about how wonderful and beauty, but not as in the case of a woman!:thmbsp: No doubt it would be wonderful to be in awe of this sacred!!! :drool:

A television of the upper caste no doubt! :banana: I am thinking about how wonderful and beauty, but not as in the case of a woman!:thmbsp: No doubt it would be wonderful to be in awe of this sacred!!! :drool:
Yes.

RCA sets from this era can have as good a picture as later solid state sets. I am fond of them and this was a great score. Good to see it working so well too.

The flybacks are the weak point and the new old stock ones are all gone so make sure you check and adjust your cathode current. I have a ctc35 in that style cabinet that has an awesome picture too.

That looks like a very low hour set. I see it has the original CRT. I always changed the blue lateral/ purity assembly when the clamp rotted off.

That looks like a very low hour set. I see it has the original CRT. I always changed the blue lateral/ purity assembly when the clamp rotted off.
It is low hours The circuit boards are clean and not all blackend like I have seen on other sets and a lot of original tubes in it. I was able to find a new clamp for the blue lateral to.

Yes.

RCA sets from this era can have as good a picture as later solid state sets. I am fond of them and this was a great score. Good to see it working so well too.

The flybacks are the weak point and the new old stock ones are all gone so make sure you check and adjust your cathode current. I have a ctc35 in that style cabinet that has an awesome picture too.

Yes, I always check the cathode current and use a dremel tool to cut a hole in the side of the flyback cage and add a fan to be sure it stays cool. I did this to my CTC 38 also and it can be on for hours and fly is barely warm.

That is a great looking set! I have a lot of these RCA tube type sets and would like to help preserve the flybacks...could you show how you add the fan to the flyback cage?

That is a great looking set! I have a lot of these RCA tube type sets and would like to help preserve the flybacks...could you show how you add the fan to the flyback cage?
Here is my ctc38 with the fan on the fly nothing fancy I would like to do a pc fan but not sure it would keep it as cool.This fan works well and is quiet I have another on the other side to help keep the chassis cool to this set is my favorite cause it's just like the one my parents had when I was born so it gets a lot of use
and I want it to last a long time. I am lucky I do have an extra new old stock fly for this set just incase. Anyone know what flybacks will work in the ctc28 I would like to find an extra for it.

Thanks for showing how you did the fan.

I would use a 80 or 120MM PC fan that runs at 12V, you can get 120v versions though.... and hide it inside the cage in a slotted area. that way its more "hidden"

regardless, that was an excellent thought on the fan idea there. keeps em cool

I have a couple of the small 2" IIRC square fans I was going to try, zip tied to the slots in the cage.

Glad to find this thread. I have brought my dad's CTC-28 back to my home town. It has been sitting in their basement for decades. It has bad a bad cataract condition on the CRT. But it is all there and I have the Sams for it. It is also the "Tonsberg" model as well. Was the first color TV that we had...

Glad you got one. They are great sets and fairly easy to work on. The cataract is easy to remove, Doug has some great videos on Youtube on cataract.

I would strongly not recommend cutting holes in the flyback cage as on the previous page. You completely loose all X-Ray protection exposing the contents of the cage

I use solid state 3A3's in the sets I have added fans to. I have to wonder how much danger there is with the regular 3A3 tube? I did take care when I cut the hole to have it where the tube still has metal around it. Only the transformer is exposed. When I did my CTC 38 I read on here there was none available and I checked around and found it to be true I have several hundred dollers in this set all new caps all new old stock tubes and a new old stock sylvania Black Matrix picture tube so I did not want to take a chance. I was lucky to find a new old stock fly on Ebay recently.

Glad to find this thread. I have brought my dad's CTC-28 back to my home town. It has been sitting in their basement for decades. It has bad a bad cataract condition on the CRT. But it is all there and I have the Sams for it. It is also the "Tonsberg" model as well. Was the first color TV that we had...

Thats neat your dad still has that set my parents traded theres in on a new RCA in 1978 I wanted it but I was about 10 and my dad said no since it did not work I was lucky to find one like it. Good luck with it they are nice sets.

Good point on the solid state 3A3, but there is still allot of high voltage potential around the fly I wouldnt want to expose. If you hold your finger up against the tire it will cook it. I tried this with a hot dog.

The flys are scarce but available if you look around. They can also be subbed fairly easily.

They usually fail near the top where the 3A3 stick in.

I saw some of those solid state 3A3s, ill have to grab one and give it a try. See if it reduces the heat any.

---

Good point on the solid state 3A3, but there is still allot of high voltage potential around the fly I wouldnt want to expose. If you hold your finger up against the tire it will cook it. I tried this with a hot dog.

The flys are scarce but available if you look around. They can also be subbed fairly easily.

They usually fail near the top where the 3A3 stick in.

I saw some of those solid state 3A3s, ill have to grab one and give it a try. See if it reduces the heat any.
I don't know for sure but I always thought it was the tube putting off Xrays that was the reason for the cage. When solid state sets came out that had no High Voltage tube they also had no cage. The 3a3 tubes also have a warning printed on them that says tube may produce Xrays if not shielded.

I would cover the hole with a piece of metal window screen. This will protect you from HV, and still allow good air flow.

Thats a good Idea.