A guy at work gave me his non-functional HDTV. No standby light, wouldn't turn on. Nothing burned up inside, all boards look new. Problem turned out to be a pair of SMD fuses on a large circuit board (the one with the jacks on it). Jumpered across the partially open fuses, set springs to life. I guess those 2 fuses were the ones supplying +5VDC to the standby circuits, so it was never getting the 'wake up' signal. The ones in question will be in the upper right section of the board, next to a connector coming from the power board in the middle. Gotta love being the neighborhood TV repairman. :music:

I would go and check for bad caps in the power supply if you can. There should be a reason the fuses blew.

Good work, though!

You got lucky! Plasma tv issues suck! Especially those lovely *$(&##(@ IPM modules on the Y and Z sustain boards. ROHS compliant solder makes me furious!

I would go and check for bad caps in the power supply if you can. There should be a reason the fuses blew.



Trust me, that was the first thing I did! :yes:

Didn't find any, though. All the caps still look new, and the set works as advertised. I think these 2 fuses just kind of went bad- after all they weren't all the way open, just partially, and they still looked new. When I measured them, I got 10k ohms on one, and 8 on the other. If there really were anything wrong, I'd have expected them to blow all of the way out. Ah well, I'm giving it to my folks. They are already making use of the WEGA HDTV another guy gave me about a week before in their studio, this one will go in the den. :music:

ive rebuilt those stupid hybrid IPMs. they suck. i still have NOT mastered a way to remove those ICs from the board except heating the living hell out of it with a heatgun. then scorch the board in the process of removal. lol.......

anytime someone calls me up that has a plasma, and said they heard a loud shotgun pop sound and picture went off, the first word out of my mouth is F*** i know what im in for.

I take a small wirecutter and cut off the pins, then i take a small pliers and a strong soldering iron to remove the pins from the pwb. That works good. Before replacing the IPM you have to change the SMD electrolytics under the IPM, els the IPM will fail a short time after replacing again.

Here is a interesting Link (in german) where a guy has rebuild an IPM:

http://user.cs.tu-berlin.de/~msaal/Plasma/HybridIC_for_42SD3_YSUS.pdf

Have a nice day.

Frank

Warning, above link caused massive IE crash!!!!
Oddly, it works the second time...

I use firefox and have no problems.

Cutting the pins are a good idea, but with all these LG Y and Z sustain boards the IPM''s are a little different on pin configurations. Ususally I find that the 18v supply side seems the same. I made a template out of 303 stainless and with small holes for the pins to protrude, I use a butane torch and pull on the heat sync. Works like a charm. The first time I did this I made a half assed template and scoarched the board on a 50X3 Toshiba branded 50" LG plasma Y sustain board. Then I swapped the Y sustain IPM module. Set still works fine ass the area of scoarching had no bearing of effect on the circuits (luckfully) I tell ya, they made these LG's with big heat syncs but no fans. So I used some of my supply and zip tied a fan to each of the four IPM's. (2 on the Y and 2 on the Z) The upper modules rare the ER (error return) modules. They seem to generate more heat than the Sustain IPM's. Then I wired all four fans to a wall outlet 12v supply I cracked open and wired to the power supply. That will prolong the modules but high rates of frequency will still eventually take them out. That Vizio, along with Toshiba, Zenith, Fujitsu, Sensi, Maxent and some other off the walls are all Korean made LG sets. The only propriatary's that I am aware of are Samsung, Pioneer, and Panasonic. Probably others, but LG sets seem to be the troublesome units when it comes to heat and nil on ventilation.

When it comes to these newer plasma sets, the best thing you could do to prolong your investment is put fans on them and keep the back dust bunny free and cool. If not, two to three years is all you are going to get outta them.

BTW. Pioneer PDP units are made in Japan. (surprisingly)

well the the 50X3 i rebuilt, the peoples faces are maldischarging with orange/red pixies on bright spots for some reason, and the YPPD-016 is getting VERY hot on the Y-sustain. VERY quickly, matter of a minute or two. but the YPPD-015 stays sorta warm, but not super hot.

any ideas?

Cutting the pins are a good idea, but with all these LG Y and Z sustain boards the IPM''s are a little different on pin configurations. Ususally I find that the 18v supply side seems the same. I made a template out of 303 stainless and with small holes for the pins to protrude, I use a butane torch and pull on the heat sync. Works like a charm. The first time I did this I made a half assed template and scoarched the board on a 50X3 Toshiba branded 50" LG plasma Y sustain board. Then I swapped the Y sustain IPM module. Set still works fine ass the area of scoarching had no bearing of effect on the circuits (luckfully) I tell ya, they made these LG's with big heat syncs but no fans. So I used some of my supply and zip tied a fan to each of the four IPM's. (2 on the Y and 2 on the Z) The upper modules rare the ER (error return) modules. They seem to generate more heat than the Sustain IPM's. Then I wired all four fans to a wall outlet 12v supply I cracked open and wired to the power supply. That will prolong the modules but high rates of frequency will still eventually take them out. That Vizio, along with Toshiba, Zenith, Fujitsu, Sensi, Maxent and some other off the walls are all Korean made LG sets. The only propriatary's that I am aware of are Samsung, Pioneer, and Panasonic. Probably others, but LG sets seem to be the troublesome units when it comes to heat and nil on ventilation.

When it comes to these newer plasma sets, the best thing you could do to prolong your investment is put fans on them and keep the back dust bunny free and cool. If not, two to three years is all you are going to get outta them.

BTW. Pioneer PDP units are made in Japan. (surprisingly)

BTW how do you figure ER as error return? never heard it referenced to this anywhere. the training manual mentioned ER as being the Erase pulse.

Y'all know that LG service literature is out there for......FREE?

http://136.166.4.200/SubPages/Directview_PDP.htm

There's a ton there - I used a website mirroring program to grab it all, and update it occasionally to get the newest stuff.

Cheers,

Hi Brian,

Great Site.

Thanks

Frank

An LG tech I worked with a while back called them error return modules. It makes more sense to consider then erase pulse. I dont know what would be considered error return anyway.

But on the maldischarge issue, set the tv in whitewash in the menu. Then do ground zero setup. Probe Va and Vsc off the PS going to the Y sustain. The label on the panel will tell you correct voltages. After those are set, goto the Y sus. Measure Vs and VSC off the tp. Use the above referenced website, (very helpful). Look up your model series to see where those voltages should be. After all that is done, check the modules 18v. There is a test point. If you are seeing anything under 18, like my set is at 16v where 18 should be, the modules will heat up quick. This is primarly caused by leaky lytics on the sus board. sometines the cap in question could be SMD. Got mine to 17.8v or so and called it a day. If you have access to an o scope, use it! Probe the TP for the Y waveform. You will prob notice alot of the maldischarge will dissapear. If you still have it, could be bad buffer boards or they are being overdriven.

I have a question: I had a plasma TV that has absolutely no picture, good LVDS activity, all correct voltages, fuses are fine but all the heatsinks on YSUS and ZSUS still cool. Audio working as well, did change the logic board to no effect.

I know I can see a precharge glow on working plasma panel without picture, but this one did not have that glow.

Can you explain that?

Cheers, Wizard

mines is the PDP50X3 panel, toshiba TV.

the 18V regulator circuit was totally blown up with a shorted inductor, shorted diode, and open resistor.

I replaced most of the components in the 18V DC-DC circuit on the Y-sus board, but i didnt have the exact inductor, so the highest voltage is about 16.3V

Now what is this "whitewash" and how to set it? I have no remote.

I have a question: I had a plasma TV that has absolutely no picture, good LVDS activity, all correct voltages, fuses are fine but all the heatsinks on YSUS and ZSUS still cool. Audio working as well, did change the logic board to no effect.

I know I can see a precharge glow on working plasma panel without picture, but this one did not have that glow.

Can you explain that?

Cheers, Wizard

Yup. exactly the same thing my PDP50X3 did until i rebuilt the sustain board.

Funny you mention that, I am currently working on a Toshiba branded LG model 50HP66. The whitewash is in the menu under setup. This function is used to pull full voltage from the power supply so you can setup the output adjustments. Also it is known to be used to clear any residual burn in. Plasma screens are real suceptable to short term burn. If you want to try to tackle adjustments, you could hook up a computer to the VGA port and go to the internet explorer or open up a white page. This will do the same thing as the white wash feature. I just repaired a 2000 model Pioneer. Used the computer technique to adjust the power supply. This set had a blown mosfet and a ceramic power resistor in the PS. Pioneer plasmas are well known for power supply issues. This one had alot of maldischarge after i got it up and running again. The VS and VA were off by 2 to 3 volts. Thats enough to put the colored snow all over the raster.

Good luck.

Wizard256, are you getting VS and VA to the ysus and zsus? Is the ysus and the Zsus cold or just the ysus board? Like Mbates14 said, I would bet my bottom dollar you experienced the plasma "pop of death". Ysus module bit the bullet and probably took out the ER module on that board as well. Hopefully your zsus board is ok. On this Toshiba I have the PS went to full shutdown. I probed the ysus VSC and there was a dead short. After the replacement of the ysus. Everything was back to normal.

Yup. exactly the same thing my PDP50X3 did until i rebuilt the sustain board.

Mbates14, Which sustain board are you referring to? Y-SUS or Z-SUS?

Wizard256, are you getting VS and VA to the ysus and zsus? Is the ysus and the Zsus cold or just the ysus board? Like Mbates14 said, I would bet my bottom dollar you experienced the plasma "pop of death". Ysus module bit the bullet and probably took out the ER module on that board as well. Hopefully your zsus board is ok. On this Toshiba I have the PS went to full shutdown. I probed the ysus VSC and there was a dead short. After the replacement of the ysus. Everything was back to normal.

Freakaftr8, when I say heatsinks are cool, I mean both Y-SUS and Z-SUS.

There are no shorts or loading down of voltages, and they are correct volts, and I still get kind of waveforms on y-buffer test points.

Do you mean ER module as buffer boards? No shorts either. I could not find the short on Z-SUS as well.

Cheers, Wizard256

welp. i got back to the 50X3 again. I tested all capacitors. ESR, leakage, and capacitance. they are all good. But my 18V is 16.3v no matter how hard i try it wont go any higher.

So after putting a new ER YPPD-J016B in, it quit getting red hot. and the pixies went away. thing was working great.

5 minutes later POWWWWW blew the 015 out again. the Y-SUS. the ER IPM survived. the IPM heatsinks were warm, but they wernt HOT.

Keep tracing back and forwards on that 18V to make sure there are good stuff and no overloads. 16.3V is too low.

Cheers, Wizard

Here's the deal. I heard you don't wanna mix ip J015b and other models. Your er module could be the culprit causing it

Again, what is ER module?

Cheers, Wizard

they are both B series. I opened up another thread on this TV. sorry for hijacking this one.