My 1st, its a CTC-21 I have a CRT to go in it, anything I need to watch out for?

a combo, I plan to put it down on blankets making sure the knobs are protected (will just remove).

support the combo with some wood blocks to take the weight on the corners.

I assume I should just unplug the CRT remove the blue lateral, the purity, and the convergence, then the yoke. with every thing off then the shield, and the degauss. I dont know how the CRT is fastened so I will need to address that once I get back into it.

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I have a full poly carbonate face shield I plan to where.

The one that is coming out has a bonded safty glass lens, the replacement has a tension band on it.

Doesn't the bonded CRT's have a tension band as well? I swear they do.. I replaced a 25GP22 outta my CTC-17 when I got it cause the neck was snapped off. I replaced with a Zenith 25XP22. It had a tension band and bonded safety glass.

Easy Dave, dont stress it. The first few times I was a bit freaked but now I can swap one out in 45 minutes max. Purity and convergence are another story but I have got pretty good at those now too.

Be careful removing the items off the crt neck, the plastic parts can crack very easy. Take a picture of the items on the next but dont worry about getting them in the exact same area on the new crt. The order is important but not the location. Most likely everything will be adjusted totally different once you finish convergence setup.

I just pull the whole chassis and tuner out on those so there shouldn't be any knobs unless the tuner is in the front.

once you get the crt fastened back in stand the unit up and inspect that the crt centered in the mask. It could be off to one side and need to be moved.

It seems to take me longer to get it set into the mask area longer than anything. Like stated above, be careful and leave yourself plenty of room to move around and a designated area to put the CRT once you have it removed.

I have a 1963 RCA Victor B&W console that uses a 23ENP4 CRT, with the tension band around it. As an ignorant 15-year old I swapped this out for a CRT in another RCA set about 1977, then after a few months swapped them back. Any reason I should be wary about removing it at this late date? I want to try & get it to Hawkeye before they close in 2 months. This was my parents' first new TV, before that they had a second-hand 1950s Zenith 21 inch console. The set hasn't been turned on since 2006.

I'de go safety googles over a face shield.......... then bury the old tube in the yard......
Maybe goggles and not googles.... dam that google.....

well the plan is to do it Saturday morn so I will report back on how it goes.

I am a little intimidated, and its not my set so I hope it goes well.

I have a 1963 RCA Victor B&W console that uses a 23ENP4 CRT, with the tension band around it. As an ignorant 15-year old I swapped this out for a CRT in another RCA set about 1977, then after a few months swapped them back. Any reason I should be wary about removing it at this late date? I want to try & get it to Hawkeye before they close in 2 months. This was my parents' first new TV, before that they had a second-hand 1950s Zenith 21 inch console. The set hasn't been turned on since 2006.

I very strongly suggest you pack the thing to be dropped from 5 feet minimum and insure it for a lot. Also take pictures of your packing job and box before it leaves.
I have had 3 tubes rebuilt by hawkeye recently and I can say he does amazing work. On the other had UPS does an amazing job at destroying crts or just about anything. Out of 3 crts, one was totally demolished and replaced by insurance, one had the safety glass broken on the way to him and on the way back to me and one made it just fine.

Dont be intimidated Dave, the intimidation and fear will cause you to make mistakes. Nothing to it. Once you get the chassis out its easy. Take lots of picture, that always makes it easier.

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I have replaced many color CRT's in my years. Some have given me issues with convergence, and purity, but I think the hardest part was getting the tube centered in the mask. Dont tighten the bolts down more than just snug. Not all CRT's are exactly the same size.

yes,they are all not exactly the same size.some crt s are off by as much as a 1/4 inch.you have to snug the bolts and flip the set up and wiggle it around to seat.no big deal unless you like that nasty little gap in the mask.

I very strongly suggest you pack the thing to be dropped from 5 feet minimum

Pack it so you can roll it down a flight of stairs. Really.

Pack it so you can roll it down a flight of stairs. Really.
This sort of packaging necessity is sad, but true. And, now UPS adds insult to injury on top of it all by charging extra "dimensional" fees when you do pack something safely enough to be handled by their goons.

I've heard a lot of horror stories about United Parcel Smashers and I don't think I've used them in quite some time. And, I don't think I've gotten a UPS package in a while, either. So, everyone else must be avoiding them. Most of my dealings are either with fedex or the USPS.

how about some of these other companys?i sent a slector for a seeburg jukebox to oregon.i crated it and it would withstand a bulldozer.i thought.the buyer sent pics of this to me.looks like it was dropped from a plane or space shuttle.79.00 item ruined.i really hate to ship anything these days.

all done, went well

removed the chassis, left the tuner as it was a plug in type.
removed the purity, blue lateral as a unit.
removed the dynamic convergence yoke and board as a unit.
removee the yoke.

unbolted the metal shield/degausser removed

layed the console down face first.
unbolted the remaining CRT mount bolts.
Lifted out the crt by the mounts to get a hand under the face then lifted by the face (not neck)

removed clamp around the perimeter of CRT. removed the four mounts with mounting pads.

At first i tried reinstalling the mounts (loosely) 1st and then putting in the crt but that did not work out so...

put the CRT in the bezel, it uses rubber mounts to center the CRT. I put a little dish soap on the bottom two mounts, the CRT then just popped into place perfect fit in the mask (the rubber mounts self aligned it).

next came the mounts, loosely bolted into place, then the band that secures the mounts to the crt. snuged down the mounts then the band.

Tilt the cabinet back up, reinstall the shield, then the yoke, then the convergence yoke, then the blue lateral and finally the purity.

Prob took 45min tops.

spent a while learning how to adj the purity (red screen drive only, pull back yoke, center blob of red with rings, push back yoke for best full red raster)

then did a static converge on center dots (blue screen off, merge red and green, blue screen on bring up vertical, then use blue lateral to merge on the horz plane) followed by dynamic. This did not work as well, no matter what I did I could not get the left side vertical to to converge. The pot that should have done the trick did not seem to have any effect (on anything). So not sure what that is all about. I guess I will have to trouble shoot the convergence board. I will start by checking that pot then any componets around it. I may be able to find another convergence assy to swap out and see if that works. There is not muct too it, just some dipped caps a few resistors and a few diodes.

Green screen drive gave me issues, even with it all the way down it was still green. The drive adj did adj, just not as well as the blue and red.

Guess I should have tried reducing the kine bias to a point but I figured that would just reduce all 3 guns. I need to check the bias voltage at the CRT.

The tracking is not great but I was able to get a decent balance. Its going ot take a lot more setup work before its right assuming I get the convergence and green drive worked out.