I just picked this up at Goodwill very cheap. I'm a little excited and a little nervous. I am an ametuer at electronics and with my jump in head over heals attitude, I am worried about getting in over my head and have a few questions.
1) This console has 2 turntables and a remote control, the cabinet is in so so shape. Is this anything extremely valuable that I don't want to touch?
2) If not what resources are out there to help me learn what I need to know to get this puppy up and going again?
Any and all input is welcome, I just kinda lucked into this thing and thought it was super cool.

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio/Spring2010141.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio/Spring2010138.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio/Spring2010143.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio/Spring2010146.jpg

Thank You all for your help!

Takin it slow to start, just taking apart the 45 RPM turntable. I figure I will probably have to Recap most of the audio and TV so this will be a good place to start before I get a schematic.. By the way if I am posted in the wrong thread please move it whereever it is appropriate.

OK, there is a rubber spindle at the motor that turns the platter on the turntable. I think it has to be replaced. Everything else on the turntable is mint. So I start looking on the net. WTH the price of these things is crazy!!!! I'm getting cold feet. The small turntable is probably worth close to 10 times what I paid for the whole unit! Happy yet scared. Please don't move my thread because of the talk of $$. Now what?

OK, I have been reading posts all over the place and determined the following:
1) If the cabinet was mint this thing would be worth something but it is not.
2) The audio portion of this console may actually be much more sought after than the TV.
3) If I do any of the Television rehab myself, KNOW WHAT I AM DOING, I know the high voltages involved are much different than audio.
I hope to hear from someone sometime, I may have posted in the wrong spot, Its only been a few hours, but I need to write about this kinda stuff. Thats what these places are for right?

Hi. I suppose you could have posted in the "Early B&W and Projection TV" forum, but here should be fine. I'm surprised no one has chimed in my now.

Sorry, but I'm not familiar with this specific set. Twin turntables you say - interesting :scratch2:

I don't think the condition of the cabinet is that big of a factor - at least not to guys like me that are into restoring stuff. I like them a little beat up - it gives me something to do :)

I'm not a fan of gutting sets just to sell the audio amps. I'd much rather have a complete set. If I was looking for a tube amp, I'd pull one from a true basket-case beyond repair. My vote is that you restore the entire set.

Yes, there are high voltages present. Any tube gear is going to use several 100 volts. A TV has a circuit inside that black box that kicks in up to around 9,000 volts going to that cap on the picture tube.

First off I am not into gutting anything, especially American made anything. Only if I'm going to lose my house and need money that bad! Doing ok now. That's one of those things that disturbs me, On the audio side how many JBL components are now over in Asia, never to be seen by us Americans again? As far as dual turntables I found that very interesting, In 1948 or 1949 RCA came out with the 45 RPM player. This is the same year that 33 1/3 RPM was introduced! To get them both in this unit which I think is a 1951 they used one TT for 78 and 33 and the smaller 45 RPM was seperate but being an RCA invention they wanted it included. This frigin 45 RPM player may be the prize of this thing, the early ones are quite pricey. Back to the console, I was surprised how many bells and whistles are included being 1951. The TV seems quite large for the time, It includes FM which for 1951 I think is quite unusual! As above the double turntables and it also has wired remote control! I am really looking for info in a big way! I still have not found a schematic and I don't want to touch anything without one. (unless it does not exist). Thanx for your comments they are encouraging!

LOL - I didn't mean to accuse you of gutting it :)

33, 45 and 78 - that's really sweet. I recently picked up a '47 GE combo, but it's only 78.

I believe the TA129 uses TV chassis KCS41A-1. I only have the TV schematic and very basic service info for that.

Looks like Sams 108-10 and 110-11 cover it. You can buy copies here: https://www.samswebsite.com/en/photofact/search/index/page/912/or/price/os/1/brand/RCA

According to the Riders index, it's covered in volume 6 pg. 32.

Sorry, I don't have those, but maybe another member does ?

-

I've seen the dual turntables before - that dates it to right when 45's came out (1950?) you'd see an RCA Victor 45-only player added into the console to supplement the "big" 33/78 turntable. I guess this was a stopgap until manufacturers engineered a player with all three speeds and an adapter for the large center hole.

Thanx, I bought 108-10 but if someone has 110-11 I'd be interested. If someone needs 108-10 just message me.

I've learned that the 45 RPM Player is a RP168B which is one of the first produced, probably late 49 or early 50. They later changed to the RP190 which was not made by RCA and had many more plastic parts. Now if I can get that idler wheel working without shelling out $50 on ebay, at least its available!

Not familiar with that particular idler wheel, but you might be able to repair it cheaply. In a lot of cases an idler wheel is just intermediate between the motor shaft and the inside edge of the turntable. The motor shaft bears on the rubber surface of the wheel, and the wheel on the turntable. If this is so in your set, then the actual diameter of the idler wheel is not important to turntable speed. When the idler wheel has a not-too-thick rubber tire on it that has deteriorated, in some caes you can remove that and find a large O-ring at the hardware store to roll onto the idler wheel, and it will work fine. Some wheels are like a bicycle wheel with a groove so the ring will stay by itself. If not, some super glue would hold it. If it's a really thick (in diameter) tire, maybe not. Worth a look. In any case, the changer needs a lot of good squirts with CRC electronic cleaner (auto parts store) and then light oil and white grease on appropriate parts. Work a little light oil down into the "oil-less" motor bearings. Keep any oil off rubber parts.

I cleaned up and fixed the LP Player yesterday, a mouse had chewed through the only wires going to it. It was a pretty good sized nest I cleaned out! Not looking good for a working TV :tears:. Today is a new day! I pulled the TV and got it to the bench. Started cleaning it up and compared to some of the others I have seen here this thing is clean:yes: Cleaned the top a little to keep me in good spirits. I am just dreading the order for the Capacitors. I also am nervous about getting the tubes and picture tube tested. I have already figured on buying a 16GF4 if I can find one. I am also considering buying testing equipment to avoid driving way to far to use a buddys. If you can message me if you have a source for either that would be very appreciated. Pictures to follow later when I am finished for the day.

OK, here are some pictures. I also noticed I wrote 16GF4 for the picture tube. It should be 16GP4! I think I better be more careful! I probably won't be posting near as much until I finish the recap unless I run into problems or someone has some questions. That part should be pretty strait forward. Once that is complete though and I have checked resistors, I'll probably hang out here a while to pick some brains before I power up!

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio2/Spring2010155.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio2/Spring2010158.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio2/Spring2010156.jpg

i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio2/Spring2010157.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio2/Spring2010159.jpg

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http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad43/pugs5061/Audio2/Spring2010160.jpg

I see what you mean about the aquadag coming off the CRT.

Looks like you have quite a gem there. "2 turntables and a microphone", lol... :music:

Have fun recapping and hopefully you'll have some pictures of it working soon!

That doesn't look too bad. I use a soft brush and a can of compressed air to clean out the high voltage area. They tend to attract loads of dust.

The flaking aquadag might not be a big deal because it appears to have a doorknob filter cap on the HV.

I just noticed you're in Barrington, that's not too far from me (downtown Chicago). If you need to borrow some equipment or tools, I might be able to help you out.

I've spent the last couple days working on a list of caps needed. I'm getting close but I thought I'd chime in here and ask a couple things.
1) I've pretty much decided to order from either justradios.com or mouser. Any input you guys might give me would be appreciated. I'm a little worried about the time from Canada with Justradios. Has anyone had any problems? they seem quite a bit cheaper. I also had a heck of a time navigating through Digikeys website thats why I'm looking at these.
2) I have never filled an old can with caps like I was planning to do here. Should I be getting radials instead of axials? I figured yes. Is there a previous post around detailing this?

In the meantime I have been sanding away on my cabinet. I will post more pics when I'm a little farther along.

Sometimes I've got to be more observant, Its the first thread in this section! Duh!

I've ordered caps from both outfits. It does take a few days longer with the shipping from Canada, but JR has some stuff Mouser doesn't. 500v electrolytics and 6,000v poly caps for example.

I've been using radial Nichicons rated at -55C to 105C from Mouser lately with good results. They are fairly small and I haven't had any trouble fitting them into multi-section cans. I've also been going with Cornel Dubilier or Illinois Capacitor film caps, but, as you pointed out, they are more expensive than the generic yellow ones.

This is a pretty tough tv to start with-they need a lot of caps, and are a lot more complicated than what came even five years later. I guess what also kills me with them is that those chassis weigh so much-I'm always struggling to move them around.

Keep us posted on your progress. I may have a spare chassis with some compatible parts on it should your set need them.

Thanks for the offer Leadlike! I am just taking it slow for the time being. I am a little younger than alot of you guys and the weight doesn't bother me. It is a relief to hear you say this a tougher TV. The video portion seems like the easy part to change the caps. Getting into the audio and the tuner are going to be difficult especially if I don't tear them apart. I really did not want to mess with them much if at all possible. My plans are to spend a while finding the lay of the land sort to speak. I have bought and am going to buy a CRT tester, tube tester and variac before I order my caps now. I just need the Variac after today. After more testing I am going to change the caps and probably go for it. The only problems I have found so far are that the 1/4 amp fuse lead had broke right at the power supply and the screw part of my 1st video RF coil is missing. It looks like the resistance is close to double what it should be. Primary at .2 ohms and secondary at .8 ohms. (in fact exactly double the specs.) I may need a new coil here. Other than that everything is going great so far. I haven't found any bad resistors. Knock on wood! yet. I was kinda hoping this TV was a little bit of a tougher one. I am doing this as a big time learning experience! If I can do this with the background I have, I can do almost any of them after a little more experience! I also fully expect to have some major problems before it is complete. This is similar to the set that Bill Cahill did and posted progress on at antiqueradios.com. His thread was 61 pages long and it took him 3 years! He probably has more experience than most of the people on this site too! Although he had some other mitigating factors like health and sight to deal with it just seems like these older RCA models don't give you a break!

I wouldn't worry about those resistance measurements. It's difficult to measure less than an ohm accurately.

John

Thanx for the heads up. That is the kinda stuff us newbies really need to know. I won't worry much about it until I start powering it up.

Picked up a set of RCA Pict-O Guides to read everything I can before getting started. I have all three volumes. If anybody ever needs anything out of them let me know.

Don't ASSUME yr CRT is bad before you check it, Young Jedi. That TV is nigh on to 60 yrs old, but it may not have been "played" all that much. Yr CRT might have a LOT of life left on it...

I'm really not expecting the CRT to be bad. I hope to find out this weekend. I bought a CRT tester last Tues on that marketplace everyone loves so much and it should be here tommorow (Hope its ready to go, it was supposed to be!). Once I know the CRT is good I can justify more $$ to complete the TV. If the CRT is not good it will probably slow me down to a crawl. The TV would go into a corner until I found a CRT and I would probably even wait to recap the set. If that is the case I'd be looking for something else, probably a little easier and this time I could check the tube immediatly. I would probably do a better job on the RCA if I had a little more experience anyways. I'm optimistic though! I have been reading and absorbing as much info from here and Antiqueradios.com as I possibly can. The Picto guides are helping a little to. The knowledge you guys posess and the old way of doing things are intriging as hell to me. Twenty or thirty years from now I think this knowledge may become even more scarce and hopefully highly coveted again. Wouldn't it be a shame if the next generation didn't have a choice and had to settle for modern guts in these old cabinets? I'm sure it wouldn't be a matter of understanding the design or TV theory but it is going to be a matter of not having hands on experience. As an example I know very few if any kids, even those studying electronics that can use a soldering iron. My Dad showed me how to use one well before my teens. I'm just hoping sometime soon to have another example of "old school" American Ingenuity to show people that we lost something when we sent so much of our manufacturing overseas and perhaps priorities and mindsets can be changed. I say that as a back handed way of getting my teenage son to understand that old addage "Carpe Diem". Enough of that, this is supposed to be a tech thread!

I bet your CRT has some life left too. Just curious - which CRT tester did you pick up ?

I remember having a set of those Picto guides years ago, but have no idea where they went. Might still be in my parents basement somewhere :scratch2:

Well, after reading the directions on the B&K 445 I picked up, I started with a short. Blasted it for a second like the manual suggested and it registered as good:banana:. I pulled the tester off and put it away before I screwed something up. It dose have a setting to test how much life is left in the tube but I thought I'd hold off until I learned more about what the heck I am doing! I have also picked up about 1/2 my Caps and started replacing them. I can read schematics (barely) but I am struggling because both the schematics I got from Sams are not correct (One is for the TV and one is for the Audio). They are close to a combination of the two but they are not. I also have an extra tube not shown in either schematic. The fact that the numbering system for the tubes on the 2 schematics I have is different by 1 or 2 tubes doesn't help either. Amazingly most of the caps and Resistors are right where they should be with one exception. Something funky is going on with the filter caps. I'm having a problem figuring out which tab is A, B,C etc.. That is one reason I have only about 1/2 the capacitors. I am going to continue to stare at this thing for several more days before I ask for help. Your best learning can come from figuring things out by yourself. Other than that progress is going better than I expected, I was able to recap about 10 Caps in about 2 hours, not as fast as you guys I'm sure but alot quicker than I had anticipated:D

I figured out my schematic problem, the tube numbers messed me up. I put one schematic away and now I'm using one schematic. I shouldn't confuse the two anymore!

Ok, I have been hanging out waiting for the rest of my caps and some higher voltage wire to complete the underside of this set. I will take tons of pictures once I close in on completeing and will post them here. UPS tells me they will be here Monday. I have tested the CRT only. I have just bought a tube tester to check the topside tubes also. I have a line on a good Variac but just a quick question for someone. What kind of Amperage should I be looking at? I'm pretty sure by the time I'm done with both sets I have I will also be looking for an Oscilloscope too. The 56 RCA schematics are nice in that it includes all the waveforms you should be looking for when testing, that is why I say this. This is just an update and hopefully soon you'll be seeing some real progress.

Just a little update so you know where I stand on this set. It is fully recapped and I'm 95% done going through the resistors I was going to go through before powering up. I was doing great on the recapping until I hit the Electrolytes. I decided not to fill the original metal ones and for that I'm very sorry. I created a mess. It just looks uglier than a sow's ass. I refuse to show you guys pictures until I rewire a few things. I only had white wire and didn't rewire a lot of things I should have. I need to make it look cleaner. I have also put together a list of bad tubes. I count 8 bad ones(out of 30) and what is interesting is that most if not all of them are in the Audio Circuits. I wonder if this set was benched because it had no sound:scratch2:. Any hints here would be helpful. Well anyways I am going to double check those bad tubes and get them ordered and pick up my Variac this week. By then I should have my mess cleaned up and the last of the resistors changed out. I know one of the worst ones was for the voltage divider. That sounds pretty important to me:yes: Anyways I've learned more than I even imagined possible when I started this thread 5 weeks ago. I will say you guys are right when you say this isn't a good set for a newbie:yes: I am now measuring the capacitors I've taken out of this set by the pound! I've done it very slowly and used more patience than I thought I had. I hope I didn't make any major mistakes but I took the time to learn the circuits and with some luck I won't have too hard a time getting this set watchable. When I do power it up I may start a new thread if I do have some major problems. Thank You All for support.

Bret

Thanks for the update. I only had 600v black wire when I started working on TVs in earnest. I ended up ordering a rainbow assortment from radiodaze.

I'm surprised you found so many bad tubes. Are they total dead or weak ?

Early RCA sets used some pretty hefty dividers/bleeders. Check out this one from Phil's site: http://www.antiqueradio.org/art/RCA630TS18.jpg

Good luck. Can't wait to see it spring to life.

A few more details on the tubes:
V2-6AG5-Mixer-showed a short
V8-6AL5-Sync limiter-Questionable 48 out of 100
V9-12AU7-Video Amp-Questionable 54 out of 100
V13-6AV6-AF Amp-Bad-30 out of 100
V14-6V6GT-Audio Output-Had a bad 6K6GT installed instead-10 out of 100 *Did this cause major problems?
V18-6K6GT-Vert. Output-Questionable 48 out of 100

Radio Tubes
V26-6J6-Shorted
V27-6BA6-Bad-30 out of 100
V29-6BF6-Shorted
V30-Wrong Tube-6AL5 installed instead of 6AU6 (6AL5 did test ok)

I personally think before I bought this set but after it was put out to pasture someone tried to replace tubes and used the wrong ones and created even more problems. I'm a newbie though anyone elses opinion would be valued!

Anyways I think I will test most of the coils for resistance after I'm done with the resistors. Something shorted those tubes. I'll start in there respected circuits.

I ordered most of the tubes through Antique Electrical Supply today. No harm, only like $40 for 12 new tubes. The 2 I didn't order: A 12AU7 and a 6SN7GT, (I didn't list it but one was only in the mid 60's and there were like 4 more so I thought it might be a good idea to have an extra), I bid on on ebay. I won 2 auctions: 2 untested 12AU7's for $4 and 2 untested 6SN7GT's for $.99. I'll see how lucky I am but buying them for the kind of price they want retail seemed crazy.

Well I put power to the set yesterday. I'm getting way to much AC and not enough DC right out of the box. Pins 2 and 8 of my 5U4's are supposed to have 225VDC. Getting varying voltages voltages as I mess with things and change out more resistors but I have 40VDC now. I figure something is messed up in my electrolytes, you know a newbie mistake. Only other options I can see are transformer or focus coil problems. I'm still thinking I'm to blame though with the capacitors.:no: I will post more if I can't figure it out.

Update after a few hours working on the set. AC is fine on the 5U4's but pins 2 and 8 still show low DC. The voltage behind (negative side) my electrolytes is still too high even after finding 1 mistake (put a 470k resistor in front of C2 instead of behind!). I checked everything but the high voltage (Didn't really want too!) and every other tube pin looks good! I thought I had a problem with the CRT too but I worked through that too (Rejuvenated on high with a B & K 445! Wish I had a newer B & K!). The only other problem I've had are the stupid resistors imbedded in the chassis of this RCA chassis. Has anyone else had those resistors go bad? Why did they do it? Going to sleep now but I figure it is still a dumbass mistake by me on the electrolytes or something really bad in the High Voltage(never really checked it out). It smells real close! when I get a picture(or Rastor of somesort) you get a picture!

Hang in there and don't rush anything! We're all rooting for ya.

The main power supply problems seem to be fixed. I didn't know what I did but I would imagine I just pushed a wire away from another. The resistance on the 5U4 pins 2 and 8 jumped from 60 ohms to 5.5K where it was supposed to be. The radio now works, AM sounds great, FM sounds like it is underwater, may need an alignment. No raster yet but as I powered up I remembered the pot that I had circumvented with a resistor. That may be the cause. I am worried about my tuner though. Having never seen an old set in years, I figured it was normal for the tuner to spin like on a radio. No click, click to turn channels. I now think I may have to go in and investigate. I think I should get a raster with a bad tuner right? Anyways moving forward:yes:.

Yeah, you should have a raster regardless of the tuner. Do you have sound from the TV ?

Maybe you have the same tuner click problem as pielock373 (http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=136261) did ? (scroll down to the bottom).

I didn't spend much time on the set today. Forward progress after a couple setbacks but thats the breaks. Power problem came back but that was actually a good thing because I figured exactly where the problem was and was able to fix it for good. It was in an area where I had not touched anything, just a wire that had to be resoldered.
I think the reason I have no raster starts with excess voltage and not enough resistance on pin 1 of my Horizontal output tube (6BG6G). This isn't the reason for no raster but just the end result of something else in this circuit being messed up. There is a switch called a Horizontal Drive that feeds parts of this tube, resistance wise everything in the area seems messed up. I also saw that there is a big resistor of 500 ohms 20 watts feeding this circuit also. It reads 50 ohms:headscrat. I will replace everything in sight around the drive, hopefully the big resistor is available at the local electronics shop. I'm probably SOL on the drive itself for now. I will also replace every cap and resitor in sight not replaced yet including the old Mica's. If I get the parts I should get it in shape in another day or so.

Hmm - I'm not sure what you mean by a switch. Horizontal Drive should be a variable capacitor used to set the amount of 'drive' going to the HOT (6BG6). Are you sure it's a switch and not an adjustable control ?

I'd leave the micas alone until you eliminated all other possibilities. They generally don't go bad (seem to be more lately though) and can be tough to find correct replacements for. The ones around the HOT can be rated for 1,000 volts or more.

Yes, Its a variable capacitor, the schematic called it a drive. Anyways I think you were right, I only replaced one of the Micas(560pf) with 2 270pf's in paralell but after staring at the circuit a while I realized the switch for my width control(optional) was hooked in through this pin and there can't be infinite resistance as shown on the specifications. The width control switch is shown elsewhere on the schematics in between the dotted lines. Anyways I went ahead and tore into the HV being that I thought my resisistances were good. I found one hell of a bad wire short to the chassis thats probably been there for years. I replaced that, checked out the rest of the flyback, rechecked Hrz output, Hrz Oscilator, Damper and HV Rectifier tubes all OK. Then I checked Resistances on the damper and Oscilator sockets and everything looked good. I also checked resistances on the flyback wires and found very little resistance between them but no shorts, is that normal(all less than 10 ohms between them)? I then went ahead and powered up. I could hear the high pitched squeal of the horizontal? Or is it vertical? Started playing with the brightness pot and poof, smoke from the flyback area. One question I have is how those pots are typically wired. There are 3 terminals. I had a resistor going to center and a wire going to the second. The terminal with the wire broke off. I reconnected the wire to the opposite side. The resistances matched. Could this have caused this? Anyways it looks as though I caught everything in time no harm that I can tell. I plan on going through everything again focusing on the oscilator because there are so many resisters in this circuit and it just doesn't look right.

The squeal was probably from the horizontal (around 15.75 KHz). That smoke came from something - hopefully just a resistor. The HOT might have been getting too much drive and smoked one. Is your set fused ? If so, did the fuse blow ?

Generally, you could swap a wire from one end of a pot to the other, unused end. Of course, the control would work backwards then.

Could you scan or take a picture of that area of the schematic and post it ?

Thats what I thought with the pot. It will work backwards though. Thanx.
I have checked most of the set out and I did find a few resistors that I know were fine before, that I had to replace. I took apart the tuner cleaned everything up, replaced resistors and left the clicker ball alone. Yes it is the same as Pielocks (same problem too) but I figured that I wanted to get the set up and going first. Besides as long as channel 3 works I'll be happy for a while until the cabinet is complete. I have one problem I have been fighting since before I powered up. I'm sure its just a good old fashion short somewhere materializing in the Vertical output tube. I'm pretty sure this is what caused the smoke. If I get too frustrated I will download everything needed for help but for now I am going to keep going it alone sort of speak. Thank you for the offers of help and I'm sure I will need them sooner or later but as long as I am still enjoying myself and not so frustrated I want to put my head through a wall, I'll be fine.

Also, yes the set is fused and the fuse did not blow. 1/4 amp I believe.

Found my problem. The vertical Blocking Osc. Transformer (T2) is showing infinite resistance. It wasn't completely infinite until I started wiggling wires and saw how irratic my resistances throughout were. The wires were all crumbly and basically gone and I hoped the problem may be just outside the transformer and I thought maybe I could just pull it out and resolder exterior wires if I was lucky. I'm actually even luckier than that though! I found a NOS transformer. Inexpensive too! Done working on this until I get the part or I find out I can't get it. (Waiting for confirmation now). Out of time now but I will post the schematic along with what I figured happened in the next day or so.

Transformer is on its way!

I finally have part of a schematic in this post. What a pain. Adobe is what makes it difficult. I printed out a PDF and rescanned it and attached it as a JPEG.
167588

Here is the area around the transformer. If someone else has something else they think might cause eratic resistance and eratic voltage on pins 1 and 5 on V 15 and V 18(only) respectitively, I'm all ears.

In regards to the previous problem several days ago where I referred to the Horizontal output I'm still thinking somethings not quite right. This tube is V20 just to the left of the Flyback which is just to the left of the Rectifier & Damper tubes. The resistance on pin 1 is 200K it should be Infinite. R121 is mounted to pin 1 and per the notes R121 is a 220k Resistor not 470K in this application. Also Pin 5 is low about that same 200K. Whats making it difficult is the Optional width relay as shown in the second attachment. I replaced the 560 MMF cap C94 and the 47 ohm R120 tests fine. I don't think R121 should be there but where should it go? Whats making it difficult for me is the Variable capacitor shown as the Horiz Drive. Resistance readings are different on each side by close to that same 200K. Please also take a look at the Optional width Adjustment on the next attachment too it does take precedence when the two conflict. This circuit just starts to intermix with this in that area. Any suggestions would be helpful.
167590
I'm sorry the width adjustment is above in the previous post.
Thanx

You know the resolution sucks on these. If interested I can email the whole Sams PDF. Its only about 8 MB. I couldn't figure out how to download it here.