I finally got around to testing the Sylvania color tube console that I brought back from SC. When I first opened it, the convergence components were disconnected, dismounted, and laying inside the TV. I found a broken plastic piece from the convergence clover that prevents me from being able to secure it to the CRT neck. Hopefully, I can JB weld it back together. Also, it looks like one of the adjustable inductors on the convergence board is broken off.

I decided to test it anyway and got sound but no HV. Upon looking closer, I discovered that the damper tube is missing, DUH! From what I can see of the tube chart, it looks like it takes a 6CE3.

I did check the CRT and it is still strong; so, that's a good thing.

The only identification I could find was the model number, which is CA-LC32K. Unfortunately, this model is not listed in the Sams index. If I knew the chassis number, I might be able to find it that way.

This is the first Sylvania tube set that I've ever worked on. I wonder how the picture will be on this TV in comparison to an RCA or Zenith. My theory is that this set had issues with the convergence and, for what ever reason, the repair shop sat it back. Then, the shop probably needed the damper tube for another set. Unlike most of what I find, this chassis looks fairly clean and doesn't look to have been ran into the ground.

http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff341/radiotvnut/2010_0423sylvania0001.jpg

http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff341/radiotvnut/2010_0423sylvania0002.jpg

http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff341/radiotvnut/2010_0423sylvania0003.jpg

http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff341/radiotvnut/2010_0423sylvania0004.jpg

http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff341/radiotvnut/2010_0423sylvania0005.jpg

looks like they added a couple of caps (a maroon and an orange drop) to the convergence board. My guess is that if the problem was on this board, then one or more of the pots went open and the owners nixed the repair over the cost of a new board.

Funky lookin' "speckled" cataract...Yeah, pretty clean chassis, though...Hope you get 'er runnin' !

Well, I can tell you that Consumer Reports thought Sylvanias had the best pictures in the mid-late 60's. Aside from that, I had heard from a couple of old-timers that they were tops in picture quality back then.

Sams is 922-3

I would agree with the tube statement. I put the tubes back in those zenith 25cc50s and they all worked.
I think I brought home a few of those too. They are packed all the way in the back.

Sams is 922-3

I would agree with the tube statement. I put the tubes back in those zenith 25cc50s and they all worked.
I think I brought home a few of those too. They are packed all the way in the back.


Thanks for the information. Maybe I'll get lucky and have that one.

i remember these sets.that is a d-6.late 60s.very good playing sets with very sharp crts that on a good day,would rival a zenith.the 19 inch portable was outstanding in picture quality.as i recall,not to many issues with these sets other than caps and resistors in the chroma.we had more than a few that would lose the red in the demod circuit.i am happy that the sylvanias are popping up lately.

Looks like there may be some miles on that Horizontal Output tube though! Can you tell if it's a replacement?
Sylvanias generally didn't eat up flybacks like an RCA either as I recall....

It has a GE HOT in there. And, yes, it looks like it has high mileage. I don't know if it saw all of it's miles in this set or if it was a used tube that someone stuck in there.

i remember these sets.that is a d-6.late 60s.very good playing sets with very sharp crts that on a good day,would rival a zenith.the 19 inch portable was outstanding in picture quality.as i recall,not to many issues with these sets other than caps and resistors in the chroma.we had more than a few that would lose the red in the demod circuit.i am happy that the sylvanias are popping up lately.



My experience with Sylvania's is with solid state sets from the '70's and later. I liked the picture quality on those '70's models with the delta gun CRT and the modular chassis.

In that shop in SC, there are still plenty of solid state Sylvania's from the '70's and early '80's and I think there's at least one tube console from around '70 that has doors over the screen. There was a '76 combo there that I wanted to get; but, ran out of room on the trailer. We fired it up and it somewhat played; but, it looked like the CRT was weak and it sounded like it had a busted speaker on the stereo portion. IIRC, it did not have the black face tube; but, some of the other sets did. Some of the other consoles had a single knob varactor tuner as well as others having a digital pushbutton tuner. There was also a Philco 21" table model set in a steel cabinet that looked to have been from the GTE era. If it's the one I'm thinking about, it has an early large neck inline CRT.

That lens should cut right off there with a guitar string. Once you get it working. Its alot of work but that cataract looks pretty bad on that one.

This Sylvania is the first TV I have ever seen with a "contrast range" control. This pot is located on the rear of the chassis and has a label under it you can't miss.

What was the purpose of this control? :scratch2: As I said, I have never seen a late-model TV (color or b&w) with such an adjustment; almost all sets have the contrast control somewhere on the front control cluster. The only reason I can come up with for this is to prevent the user from setting the main contrast control too high.

I forgot to mention that this set uses a 22LP22 CRT (20" viewable). The RCA CTC38 console that I brought back from SC also is 20" viewable. I think these are the first two smaller screen color consoles that I've had and I suspect that these 22" CRT's would be hard to find.

That lens should cut right off there with a guitar string. that cataract looks pretty bad on that one.

A guitar string? The safety glass on that CRT must be so loose it isn't funny, if it will be that easy to remove. I'm surprised it hasn't fallen off the tube already with the first vibration or movement of the cabinet.

A guitar string? The safety glass on that CRT must be so loose it isn't funny, if it will be that easy to remove. I'm surprised it hasn't fallen off the tube already with the first vibration or movement of the cabinet.


Here's the thread on how to use a guitar string to remove the safety lense.

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=247613

Actually, the cataract on my tube is not bad at all when compared to some that I've seen. I've seen some that had a cataract all the way up to the center of the screen.

I guess it's time for me to get brave and try cataract removal, as I suspect the tube in my set would be hard to find. And, it's otherwise good as far as emission.

I had the same basic set in a cheaper cabinet, back in the very early 90s. I often wondered about the crt size-I knew it was smaller than usual. It was a very good performer-probably the best color of any tube set I had at the time. Mine had an intermittent vertical which eventually went out all the way. Way beyond my skills at the time so I junked it :(

Was the D6 chassis known for failures of fat resistors in the RGB Y circuits? Seems like I remember problems there.

yes,there were failures of those fat resistors.seems like that was the only real common issues with these sets.they were pretty well built and had a nice picture when they were right.we saw many of them here in columbus ohio.sun tv was their largest distibutor.

http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff341/radiotvnut/2010_0423sylvania0001.jpg
This was the earliest color TV set I remember ever seeing, in the early 1970's.

I replaced the damper and it now has HV, color, and full sweep. The convergence is, of course, about as far off as you'd expect since the convergence board and yoke are messed up. Also, while it was playing, I heard an arc and saw a split second collapse of vertical sweep. And, the vertical hold has to be all the way to one end in order to lock the picture. The first order of business will be to repair the convergence components.

I replaced the damper and it now has HV, color, and full sweep. The convergence is, of course, about as far off as you'd expect since the convergence board and yoke are messed up. Also, while it was playing, I heard an arc and saw a split second collapse of vertical sweep. And, the vertical hold has to be all the way to one end in order to lock the picture. The first order of business will be to repair the convergence components.

The vertical sweep problem may be part of why your convergence is out of whack. If the vertical hold must be set at one end of its rotation to synchronize the picture, the sync may be (probably is) very unstable. Sync problems, vertical or horizontal (particularly the latter) in color TV can cause serious convergence problems as well (one is tied in with the other). Fix the vertical sync, check the horizontal to be sure it's peachy (my term for okay), and I'll bet your set will converge just fine. Of course, if the convergence board and/or convergence yoke are out of order (as yours seem to be) for any reason, the convergence will go haywire at the drop of a hat. I'd fix that as soon as you get the vertical sync to the point where the picture holds solidly with the control at midrange; until you do the latter, you may have the dickens of a time getting the convergence right.

Good luck. You seem to be on the right track to getting this TV working again as it once did. A little more work with the sync and the convergence and you will have a television set you can be proud of; these older color sets can and do make excellent pictures when they are working as they should. You are saving another great old TV from certain death in a landfill as well. :yes:

This was the earliest color TV set I remember ever seeing, in the early 1970's.

Right off the bat, I can tell it needs a new CRT (or the old one rebuilt), as the tube now in the set has the beginnings of a cataract, judging from the tiny spots around the perimeter of the screen. My best guess is the safety glass could fall off any day now if the cataract get any worse, which it probably will.

Yes, the emission is fine; but, the cataract will need some attention before this project is complete. I probably won't go to the trouble in getting the convergence and purity spot on, as I'll have to remove everything from the CRT neck when I pull the tube. I might as well wait until the cataract is fixed before I get serious about purity and convergence.

It will be interesting to find out how difficult that safety glass will be to remove. I suspect very difficult.

Yep; but, it has to be done as the CRT in this set is not all that common.

What are your guy's thoughts on a guitar string and a car battery charger on 2 amp mode? Connect the string to wood dowels, and go to town.. I was thinking of trying this but later on when I get to that set.

Ctc17 had that down pat it seems but when I did the 21FJP22 in the Ctc16 in my avatar I used Doug's method. The scary thing is the possibility of A CRT implosion if the heat is not dissapated correctly. Doug had that 23EGP22 blow up on him and he did a few cataract removals that way before..

BTW. Is that Sylvania using a 22" CRT? It sure looks like it to me.
I wonder if they can sub a 23EGP22? I still have one in excellent condition I dont know what to do with..

Yes, it uses, IIRC, a 22LP22 CRT. The actual viewable screen measures 20".

And, cataract removal is still something that I'm not 100% comfortable with, especially after that 23EGP22 blew up on Doug.

Dont worry to much about it blowing up. Ware long sleeves, heavy pants and a face shield just to be safe.
The green Zenith glue is soft and easy to cut through. If the face of the crt is warm and the wire is heated it goes right through like butter. You really dont even need to heat the wire, just the face to soften up the goo.

The hard part with the green stuff is cleaning it off the crt and lens. It doesnt peal off in a sheet like the rca style. You have to work at it and it stinks. Its defiantly an outside project.

I dont think a battery charger would work because most of them have a thermal circuit breaker and the wire is basically a short. You really must use a low voltage high current transformer and a varic to control the temp.

If you have limited tools, let the crt bake face up in the sun till its good and warm to the touch then pull the guitar string through it. Do not use a heat gun on the green halo.

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