well I got a BK 1076 analyst on the way...

I dont think it has any transprancies so the plan is to print a indanhead test pattern on a laser printer to some clear plastic, I think that can be done.

That is of course if the 1076 is not a basket case.

I will post some pics when I get it.

Dave, I was recently given three BK 1077 Analysts, included were three slides, the standard test pattern like my avatar and a couple others.

I've made a High Res scan of you can DL and possibly print to a piece of clear mylar:

http://www.vintagetvsets.com/temp/bkslide.jpg

It should be the actual size so if you print it as is it should be right, you might have to trim the edges a little.

I tested it, it print's fine from Photoshop but not from Windows picture viewer.

Since I don't know what you will be using I made a pdf file from it, it should print fine from Adobe reader.

http://www.vintagetvsets.com/temp/bkslide.pdf

I should warn you, these are large, 10-11 meg.

Eric,

Will you please upload the other two slides, dots & cross-hatch, for the 1076.

THX

Thx Eric, I am looking forward to playing with this.

I can scan the others tonight possibly.

I really need the other two as well. Please scan. Many thanks.

Here are the other two in pdf format.

http://www.vintagetvsets.com/schem/bkslides.pdf

I couldn't help but notice on those scans how relatively crudely the artwork seems to hav been prepared. (I assume the scans are accurate reproductions.) I'll have to check the few slides I have to see if they're similarly rough. I guess that must have been considered "good enough."

The scans look pretty much identical to the slides.
They have some imperfections because they're old and have been used a lot, but also if you are looking at them in Adobe at 295% it really brings out the issues.
Scale it back or print it to scale and it they look OK.

The small scratches and blemishes around the edges don't really matter because only the center part is scanned by the Analyst.

Eric-

Thank you for posting those slides. I hope you don't mind, I downloaded them as well, hoping I get a 1076 or 1077 in the future. Years ago, I had two B&K Dynascans (the very early equivalent of the Analysts, I think), but they were stolen before I could restore either one. I had always wondered where the name Dynascan came from, until I saw those units.

Eric,

Thanks for the scans.

...

It would be fairly easy to clean them up in a paint program. If I ever get around to it, I'll post them here.

It'd probably be pretty easy to Photoshop the Indian Head pattern in to one of these also if you wanted something a little different.
As long as the proportions are correct it should work.

I don't think the resolution of the B&K or the TV is critical enough to pick up on the small imperfections.

Well I got it, better than I expected (that's rare off ebay), anyhoo it looks completly untouched, no hack repairs. So I will start with a basic check of the filter caps (there are a couple cans mounted under the chassis) and there are a few single electros (will not even bother to check those just replace). I could see no trauma (breakage or burnage) so looking good so far.

No rust at all and the overall condition would be good. Handles are intact, one knob has some broken edges but not anything that would effect use.

It has 2 6dq6's so I hope they are ok (I have spares if needed).

There are no cables of course and there is a place for a HV prob, not sure what that is all about. Very solid build I love the way this old vintage test gear was made, looks like it was built to LAST...

The fly looked ok (not burnt or anything like that).

oh and it had the B&K test patter transparency in it!

Here's a custom made slide with the Indian Head, I haven't tried it yet to see how it looks because I don't have any transparencies.

http://www.vintagetvsets.com/schem/ihslide.pdf

By the way, does anyone know if the purple glow from the CRT in the Analyst is UV or harmful to look at at length?

Here's a custom made slide with the Indian Head, I haven't tried it yet to see how it looks because I don't have any transparencies.

http://www.vintagetvsets.com/schem/ihslide.pdf

Sweet :D I've always wanted this! I don't have any transparencies on hand either, but I'll be getting some :yes:

By the way, does anyone know if the purple glow from the CRT in the Analyst is UV or harmful to look at at length?

I wouldnt think so, its about the same as a black light and not nearly as bright.
I like the Indian head, thanks!

Whats the difference between a 1067 and 1077?

Whats the difference between a 1067 and 1077?

The age of the unit mostly and updates here and there.

The 1076 was 50's? & 60's, the 1077 is Later 60's through 1979 at least, not sure when they stopped making them, I would assume they have?

One of the 1077's I got recently has 1979 date codes on the tubes, the other 1077's I got have 1968 date codes.

By the way, does anyone know if the purple glow from the CRT in the Analyst is UV or harmful to look at at length?

Not harmful. Incidentally, this phosphor was used for black and white flying spot scanners because of its short persistence, which minimized video smear. Color scanners used a greenish phosphor that required at least a double-time-constant smear correction circuit.

see second page

slow going (work getting in the way)...

Got one can re stuffed, leaky.

Got one to go and then a few singles that I will have to order, and a few ceramic tube papers to do.

anybody know where I can get a 20uf 350v non polar cap? Its the coupling to the video out jack. I have heard about the back to back polarized trick, but I am not 100% sure that is a good way to go. I have also read about using diodes to shunt the caps when the voltage is reversed (on the back to back deal) again, micky mouse, I would rather just find a proper replacement.

there are a few nasty looking disc caps including some that looks like they are split although that may be the way they were made. I ran into this recently when working on an old maggin mpx unit. there was a disc cap that was .1uf 75v, and it was kinda double thick split in the middle look about it.

never seen a disc cap that high a value. Well it was shorted so I will look at these very close. they are on PCBs so easy to remove and replace anyway.

350v non-polar? it's hard to imagine where that would be used that it could experience plus or minus hundreds of volts - is it supposed to be able to inject at the plate of a video amp stage as well as a grid for troubleshooting a set, or what??? If the input to the cap is +100 or more and the output is only used to inject to low voltage grid points, you shouldn't need non-polar.

yea it seems odd but that is what is there and on the schmatic. Maybe because of the way the phase switch takes off the the low volt cathode and the high volt plate, or maybe to allow injection at other than grids.

See C1 on the schematic

hmm attachment did not work

Maybe one of these (scroll down to the bottom) ? They have a 20uF @ 400v. Too bad it's $12.

http://www.surplussales.com/Capacitors/NP-Plastic/NP-PlasticC-4.html

try again

hmmm I wonder how old it is.

Of course - I forgot - it's because of the phase switch - when connected to the cathode in the B&K, it might easily be connected to an injection point at a higher DC in the TV you are testing, even a grid if it's stacked following another stage. Thismight overwhelm the grounded 47K (or is that 4.7k?)

somebody pointed me to a crossover cap at parts express. Looks perfect.

Cool! I thought they only had 100v caps ? Can you point me to the one you found ? I need to recap mine too :D

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-940&DID=7

if you want when I order I will get a couple extra, save you on the shipping as I will just put one in the reg mail.

I need to go over and see what else I need but will prob order in the next day or two.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-940&DID=7

if you want when I order I will get a couple extra, save you on the shipping as I will just put one in the reg mail.

I need to go over and see what else I need but will prob order in the next day or two.

Sure, that's mighty nice of you :yes:

How are you managing to recap the circuit boards ? Did you leave them in place or remove them ? Either way, it looks like a hassle!

I am going to leave them be, not sure about how those pins work that hold them in. I have a solder sucker iron that works great on PCB.

I hope to stuff the 3 section can tonight. I figure no hurry on replacing that NP cap since I just want to see if I can get it up and running thru the RF output anyway.

Banderson, can you confirm the value of C9a/b. Per the schematic it is a 50/50mfd both at 150v.

It should be a can on the bottom of the set on the left side looking at it from the bottom, closest to the power tranny. Mine was switched out.

oh and confirm the can is a common POSITIVE!

Sorry, I have a couple 1077s which are a bit different. C9 is a 0.047 uF cap to the yoke test signal output. Mine do have a couple 10uF and a 20uF with positive to ground. They are for filtering the B- supply.

anybody else with a 1076 let me know. the bias cap (I think) in mine does not match up with my schematic. I just dont trust it since it does not look orig (the cap).


The 330 resistor comes off the bias supply diode to a 10uf section of the cap.

then a 3.3k resistor goes from that point to the second section a 50uf. This section is tied to the 3rd section a 20uf (so 70uf total).

from the 70uf total junction it goes to the V1 photo multilplier tube (blk stripe), and to 33k power resistor on a term strip (brw stripe). Che can is connected to a term strip that is rivuted to the chassis (not solderd just rivut). Per the can its a 50/20/10 350v on all POS can.

besides not being able to find this setup on the schematic i am concerned that it may not be orig to the unit based on bridging the two sections together. I figure if the factory wanted a two section cap it would have come that way.

of course the other problem is the schematic has a 9a/b pos can cap but I cant for the life of me find the b section on the schematic. I have already come across a miss marked cathode bypass cap (+ to ground) so my confidence in the schematic is not the highest.

For what it's worth, here's the 1077 power supply schematic: http://www.bobandersen.com/images/B&K%201077B/scan004001.jpg

It uses three separate caps for that bias supply.

I am just going to use a two section 10 and 70 uf and wire it the way it is. there are some other differences from the schematic, for one the schematic has two diodes in series, I assume for some kind of voltage drop across one of them. This one does not and it all looks original. May have something to do with the 3.3k resistor after the 330 ohm. Just going to assume it was working so will go with it.

whew done with the recap. only iffy thing is the dumb 10uf 450v caps are not clear on the negative.

they have cardboard on both ends (axial NSL brand), pinched on both ends.

Has a solid strip that has arrows in it pointing to one end. I am assuming this in negative since IIRC all modern caps ID the neg terminal.

I even scrapped one. Turned out the center of the cap was the negative. That threw me.

power up went well, about 500ma AC at 120v, no smoke, no issues. Nice purple raster came up. That is about the extent of testing tonight.

I will give it a rest and try hooking it up tomorrow to a TV.

Cool - I like that purple glow :yes: Good luck tomorrow.

works, got a pic and tone. Now I need to try it out on a few different sets. The Emerson was ok, the predicta barely strong enough RF. I have a 80's era SS set I will try it on. I was not able to see a hammer on the sync pulse line at all on either set, the emerson had better lineairity (much) so not sure what is going on.

I have not checked ANY of the tubes so I will start with some of the RF out tubes to make sure they are ok. I am assuming there may need to be some adjustments as well due to the replacement of some caps on the Sweep board, but I will hold off on that until all else has been checked.

gonna need some work..

pic on the newer TV is pretty linear, but sync tears some at the top, RF needs to be turned up near full, horz adj is at one extreme, just barely locks, has a lot of snow.

color bars work ok, but not great, kinda washed out, and the adj seems to have minimal effect. RF output is only good on two of the channels.

The 1st thing I will try is cleaning the RF channel selector. I replaced several of the weak old tubes (12at7 and 12au7). I need to find a strong 6cb6, I think it is part of the RF. I replace it with a stronger tube and the pic went away. Put the orig back in. I dont know maybe its critical on the tuning.

My guess is the horz is just going to be an adj of a trimmer pot to bring the horz adj control back into center range.

The scanned image was also to big, and offset. This was the cas on 3 different sets. I will be doing some reading up on how that is adj. My guess is the CRT is under scanning, but that is just a guess.

I will need to check the voltages before going too far to make sure all is good on the B+. It uses a 6ca4 dual diode, that has not yet been checked.

cleaning the channel selector switch did wonders for getting the other channels working. But now I am getting some intermittent pie crust in the image, and shifting. Resolution is pretty good, I can see the scratches and dirt on the transparency.

Getting good video signal, I can see the bulleye gradients for contrast, and 325 lines on the vertical not as good on the horz.

I was not able to see a hammer on the sync pulse line at all on either set,

I would not expect a standard hammer pattern from this device - it's likely just a wide sync pulse for vertical. (not near a schematic to check at this time)

been messing a bit more with it, getting better, I need to do a good cleaning of the tube pins and the pots. I opened up the vert scan a bit (it was not lighting up the whole of the transparency). The RF antenuator is a little rough. Fun little device.

a bunch of very weak tubes. Next up is the color pot. it turns on and off but seems to have no effect other than the switch. I get bars but the pot does nothing.

Well I got the cap today, very pretty, almost too pretty to put in the tester.
Its a cross over cap, I am sure meant for the audiophiles out there.



Its pretty big, but not much different than what is in there (a little shorter and a little fatter).

After putting this in I will button it up and get to work on the transparencies.