This is one of 2 sets I picked up from drh4683 yesterday, it uses the very last of the horizontal solid state chassis, and the SC600 remote. Initially turning it on only revealed 2 minor problems, a dirty vol control and a problem with the channel number lights staying lit. The picture on this set is excellent, the remote unit works consistently, but after watching it for a while last night, I had more trouble with the sound. Sometimes the sound will just cut out entirely, when this happens I can still hear static when I turn the volume control, so the audio output is still working. Turning the set on and off a few times always restores the sound. This uses the 150-214 sound module, which has no transistors, just 2 ICs. Once I fix the sound, this set will probably replace my ctc-10 as my main watching set.

The other set I picked up is this 63 Zenith 19" b/w SC300 in the metal cabinet. The set itself needs some cleaning up, but works fine, although the remote receiver isn't working at all. If anyone has any of the built in antennas that go with these, I now have 3 sets that need them. I also need to come up with something to replace the missing 4 plastic pads on the bottom of this set. I think I could never collect too many Zenith b/w sets in metal cabinets, this is my 5th.

Very nice!

Those are a couple of winners for sure! I too like those old metal cabinet Zenith sets.

Concerning my sound trouble, I want to try swapping out that 1st IC which, I think?, corresponds to the sound IF amp through detector circuits in a regular tube tv. The Zenith part # is 221-481. 221-48 = nte-1162, while 221-48-01 = nte-712. But I can't find a cross-reference with just 221-481, is the part I need one of the above 2, or something else? Working on such a "late-model" tv is unfamiliar territory for me.

Is the space command chassis similar to the older versions with rotary step switches? If so, did you clean them too? I too am unfamiliar with these, I know, WTF? with my name being "zenithfan1" I should already know:D Like I've said beore, Space Command sets elude me for some reason. I only have a few around here and never one that new. I hope you get it working, that's a great daily watcher and will most likely outlast you.

This is an unusual model in that it has the newer motorized veractor tuner like in the later vertical chassis sets, but still uses the older horizontal chassis. It's even called a chromacolor II, which I thought referred specifically to the vertical chassis, but it seems Zenith started using cc2 in 74 for both kinds of sets.

Whatever is wrong with the sound does not affect the picture at all, and changing the channel or adjusting the tuning has no effect on the sound when it goes out at all, so I'm fairly certain the problem is limited to that sound module. I watched it for several hours today, about once an hour the sound would cut off, turning the set off and on again always brings it back (sometimes I have to do it 2 or 3 times)

If the sound goes off every hour, and turning the set on and off always brings it back, my best guess would have to be that there is an intermittent that only acts up after the set has been playing awhile. However, this is only a guess, and since you can always get the sound to come on again by rapidly switching the power on and off, it probably isn't a very good guess at that. I'd check the sound module for cold solder joints, cracks in the printed wiring board (this sounds like one of Zenith's modular chassis) and other things that would show up only after the set has been on and running for an appreciable length of time. This is called a "thermal" intermittent and can be the very dickens of a thing to find, but from your description (except for being able to get the sound back by switching the set on and off), it sounds like that may well be the cause of your sound trouble. You may be "shocking" a bad component or connection on the sound module into temporary normal operation by your rapid power switching, but the key word is "temporary" since the sound will disappear again in another hour.

Not being any kind of expert on Zenith TVs, especially the solid-state ones of the '70s through the nineties, however (most of my experience has been and is with older Zenith tube-type radios), I will step aside at this point and let the Zenith TV experts here like zenithfan1 and drh4683 guide you further.

Good luck. Those older Zenith TVs were great performers in their day, and can be again with proper servicing. I had a great-uncle who replaced the RCA color television chassis in a 3-way console in his living room with a 1974 19" Zenith Chromacolor II, IIRC; the set worked beautifully until he died in 1987. My great-aunt then got rid of the old console, bought a Zenith System 3 console and kept the latter from '87 until she died some 15 years later.

In its day (decades before Goldstar made a mockery of their name and reputation), Zenith was an excellent brand of TV; I had several of their black-and-white sets and a couple of their solid-state color portables, and had excellent results from all of them. The two Zenith color sets lasted 19 and 16 years, repectively, and were still working when I gave them up shortly before I moved to my apartment in 1999. I also had a 12" Zenith b&w solid-state portable that lasted 22 years and was still going strong when I got rid of it ten years ago. I would have kept it, goodness knows I should have, but my apartment was and is just too small for three TVs; I brought one Zenith color set with me when I moved here and bought a brand-new RCA CTC185 at almost the same time, so the li'l 12-incher had to go. I hated to part with that set and my two 13-inch portable color sets, :no: but moving from a three-bedroom house with a basement to a one-bedroom apartment means lots of downsizing, as I'm sure many of you know.

Adam, I have that sound module, if you need. I think the 25EC58 was the only set to use that module. I ordered a few extra new ones when my mother was using my Zenith in the 80s, and would blow up the audio module by having the volume out of control.

PM me if you want me to send you the module... I don't know if I can lay my hands on a new one at this point, as I have parts stashed everywhere and it's been 25 years since I ordered those new ones. I do have a few known, tested good ones.

Charles

I think I found my sound problem. Look at this messy soldering on the bottom of the sound module. It looks like it cracked, and somebody tried to bridge the cracks, but didn't do it too good. It's not totally visible in the pic, but it's using this stranded wire which has loose strands touching other traces it shouldn't.

Charles, I'll send a pm about that module you have, thanks.

This is one of zeniths very first solid state chassis, so it's partially modular, and partially not. In some cases transistors plug into sockets on the chassis just like tubes would. It's an interesting chassis, I'll post some pictures of it later.

I did some work on the b/w set. The set worked fine except for the remote receiver unit, so on the tv chassis I just recapped the bumblebees, and kept the original electrolytic cans for now.

On the remote chassis, the selenium rectifier was open, and that 2 section 40mfd electrolytic was bad. I put a diode in, replaced all the electrolytics and the remote worked ... for just a few minutes ... Then the channel changer still worked, but the vol control didn't. First I swapped the 2 transistors that operated the channel changer and the volume control (X5 and X6), but the channel control still worked and the vol still didn't. Then I went and adjusted the alignment, which I was able to improve a little, but even though the unit appeared to be working and the alignment was good, it still wouldn't operate the volume switch.

The problem turned out to be mechanical, there is a crack in that plastic gear in which the spring which turns it forward gets stuck, and then doesn't allow the disc to turn (see 2nd pic). These plastic gears seem to be the one weak point in these Zeniths. The repairs I did to the plastic gears on the tuner motor on my Zenith color set with the SC400 are still holding, so I think this one should be ok too.

The only other problems with the set are the rubber belt for the fine tuning was broken, which I already replaced, and the channel indicator light is burned out.

Looks nice. Glad you were able to get those going. Both those sets just sat in my storage unit and never got around to even taking the back off them. Nice to see them coming back to life and glad to see you used Sprague Atoms for the lytics! (made in USA and the best!). Watch out for that space command chassis though. That large heat shield for the transistors is asbestos.

The 1963 b/w is now fully operational.

:smoke:It is incredible to see that the television sets of remote control are existed in America in 1963! like wonderful that she has this television. :banana::banana:

The first wireless remote control tv was the Zenith Flashmatic (which used a flashlight for a remote) back in 1956. Then Zenith began making the mechanical ultrasonic space-command remotes in 1957, RCA also came out with an electronic ultrasonic remote back in 1957. Way back in 1939-42 Philco even had a wireless remote control (an AM transmitter called the mystery control) in some of their console radios.

After watching the '63 for a while, it developed problems with both vert size and horizontal sync, but both are repaired now, and I also went and did a complete recap of the electrolytics this time.

I got a new sound module for the '74, swapped it in, and the sound works fine now. Now I just have to address the problem with the channel number lights being intermittent.

adam, :banana: thank you for giving me that the history of a remote control. It seems so very hard to believe that of things, tv existed so very long ago. In Oman, Télévision "only for the ruling class, or upper caste so we never saw such wonders, let'm alone a remote control.:music:
Adam and thank you for giving me remote control after that date, it seems it is difficult to believe that these things have existed since the time of a very long. In Oman, but that the television the ruling class,:sigh: or هذلك and so we have never witnessed such upper class wonders, let alone by remote control.

In my country I trained for military action electronics, but my family and left to the United States before the first of training. I still love Tinker with electronics.

I hope to learn more about this site.:smoke:

These are my early remotes, from left to right:

Philco mystery control
Zenith space-commander 400 (1958)
Zenith space-commander 300 (1960 and 61)
Zenith space-commander 300 (1963 and 65)
Zenith space-commander 400 (1965)
Zenith space-commander 600 (1974, 75, and 76)
RCA remote controls (1960, and also 60)

That Philco looks like the one that goes with a late 30's Philco radio. You have some nice 'motes there:)

Unfortunately, I don't have a radio to go with it. A 1941-42 Philco console with the mystery control and the beam-of-light phonograph is one of the few consoles (radio or tv) that I don't already have that I'd still really like to find.

Unfortunately, I don't have a radio to go with it. A 1941-42 Philco console with the mystery control and the beam-of-light phonograph is one of the few consoles (radio or tv) that I don't already have that I'd still really like to find.

Is this the type of console you are looking for? I was just about to post it on Craigslist. It's been half-ass restored with a few new caps. (Not by me) It hums with a little tuned-in audio in the background. Model # is 41-280 I believe.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v619/Chromacolor2/802270a9.jpg

Thanks, but I already have the 41-295, and I already have lots of consoles, so I'm really just looking for one of the remote control models.
About the '74, there's good news, and bad news. The good news is I took the tuner apart cleaned the switch that controls which channel number lights up, and now all the channel numbers light up. The bad news is after I put it back together I just got 3 horiz lines on the screen, like it was stuck in the setup mode. So I go around to the back of the set and start shaking the setup switch thinking it's just gummed up, it has no effect. Then I see an orange light and smoke from under the chassis, I quickly unplug, and I haven't looked at it to see what happened yet.

The '63 is still working good, I'm currently just waiting for one electrolytic to come that I didn't have, so I can say I did a complete recap of all electrolytics, and have it be very unlikely I'll have to take it apart again.

Actually the horiz hold problem I had with this set after it was first on for about 30min was caused by a resistor, the vert size problem by electrolytics, but but they're such a common problem, I figure if one goes bad why take the chance, and just not change all of them? - Although by 1970 b/w Zenith held out for 5 years of regular use before I had a bad electroyltic, and I've been using my b/w '65 Zenith nearly every night for several months now on the original electrolytics with no problems.

The '63 b/w is back together and working, I just have to find something to use for those 4 rubber pads on the bottom, and I'll be done with this one.

So what's going on with the '74 is this resistor lighting up bright red in the power supply (circled in 1st schematic), and no vertical at all (2nd schematic)

I have it working again:banana: I circled the wrong resistor above, it was R325 that was heating up. I checked and found that 24v source was only at around 1v. That zener diode was shorted, I replaced it, and the new one shorted too. But then I got another zener, and changed that regulator transistor, it's working now.

Now the power tuning is only going down, it seems to get stuck when it tries to go up, it sounds liken a mechanical problem to me. And the convergence could use a little touching up. Otherwise everything seems ok now.

Why on earth would an overloaded resistor light up as yours did? :scratch2: Most (nearly all) of the overloaded resistors I've ever seen will either smoke or burn in half--right across the middle, before they ever have a chance to get so hot they actually glow. Yours was obviously so badly overloaded it smoked, and from your description there must have been one heck of a lot of smoke coming from that resistor while it was glowing. All I can say is, the resistor must have been carrying much, much more current than it was meant to, if it actually lit up red. I bet it burned up inside a minute.

The strange thing is, that resistor didn't burn out at all. I was all ready to replace it, and it checked good at 5ohms, so I didn't. My only thought was that it was a wirewound resistor, and maybe those just don't burn out the same.

Fixed the power tuning, touched up convergence, put it all back together. That Hawaii-5-0 pic I took doesn't really show off how good the color picture is on this set, I'll have to try another one of something else later.

:thmbsp:

I have to touch up my avanti convergence, did you have a manual on how to go or did you have prior exp on that board?

It has 4 rows of three controls each, each row is of 3 is labeled: left, right, top, bottom. The controls aren't labeled vertically, but the leftmost control in each row is blue horizontal. Middle is red/green vertical. Right is red/green horizontal.

I am still a bit confused, if I get a pic of the screen with my issue would you pls give me some guidance on which controls. I dont have my camera handy but will see if I can get a pic this weekend with a cross hatch pattern.

Fixed the power tuning, touched up convergence, put it all back together. That Hawaii-5-0 pic I took doesn't really show off how good the color picture is on this set, I'll have to try another one of something else later.

I think that picture shows off your set rather well; it's amazing what a slight amount of touching up will do to improve the picture on these older sets (yours was made 36 years ago, the year before I graduated high school). At first I was wondering how you were getting Hawaii 5-O without a converter box (I don't know if any of Detroit's UHF stations carry old reruns anymore--I know the ones here near Cleveland don't and haven't since they became network affiliates--channel 43 is MyTV and channel 55 is The CW--some years ago, so about the only way one can get old reruns back to about the '60s nowadays is on DVD), then I zoomed in on the pic and saw that the image was the setup menu for the Season 5 DVD of the program.

We get a ch 7.3 RTV from Detroit which has some old shows, but I've never seen Hawaii-5-0 on it. I've heard that you can get it on a ch 38 from Detroit, but I haven't been able to pull that one in.

We get a ch 7.3 RTV from Detroit which has some old shows, but I've never seen Hawaii-5-0 on it. I've heard that you can get it on a ch 38 from Detroit, but I haven't been able to pull that one in.

I looked up channel 38 on TV Guide's web site and on Google, and found the following information. It is WADL-TV, licensed to Mt. Clemens, Michigan; the station is a 5-megawatt UHF television station that serves the Detroit metropolitan area. I don't know where Mt. Clemens is except that it is a Detroit suburb. However, from where you are, you should be able to get channel 38 both OTA in digital and, of course, on cable. The TV Guide listing also showed a subchannel (WADL-DT1), that is mostly sports programming, branded "US 38"--at least at night. I don't know about their daytime programming.

Oh no, vertical shrink:no: I fall asleep on the couch watching this set last night and wake up in the middle of the night to see the set lacking in vert size (only by about 1" top and bottom). Haven't looked into it yet. This is why I don't collect color sets in quantity anymore, they seem to constantly need repairs, in comparison after I fix a b/w set it tends to stay fixed.

did you try to adj the vert height? mine has a slight keystone horz going on, I fear the yoke but have not checked a thing on it yet.

I brought the picture back to full size adjusting the vert height and lin controls, but something must have drifted in value to cause that, so I don't know if it'll stay put or get worse, but I've been watching it for an hour or so now, seems ok.

Now I turn this set on, and the picture comes up not in focus, takes it about 15 minutes or so for the focus to gradually get better. Any likely causes I should be looking for?

First, check the CRT socket for any corrosion around the focus pin. If that's OK, you likely have a bad HV tripler or focus divider. Some early versions of this set used a seperate focus divider and HV tripler. The later ones used a tripler with a built in focus divider (NTE526, IIRC). If your set is the older type with the seperate focus divider and tripler, you can use one of the newer triplers to replace both parts.

In the early '90's, someone gave me a 19" "F" line Zenith CCII that had the exact same problem and the trouble was a defective tripler.

I agree to check the crt socket first. Look to see if there's any green corrosion on the focus pin, and clean it. Sometimes, there are carbon trails inside the socket between the spark gaps, and the socket needs to be replaced.

Charles

I finally got back to this set, the crt socket was ok, tripler was bad. I replaced it with one of those focus divider/triplers in one unit. The picture is now better than it ever was. I also went and swapped out those 5 white .0018-1.6kv capacitors known for causing problems, while I was in there.

I finally got back to this set, the crt socket was ok, tripler was bad. I replaced it with one of those focus divider/triplers in one unit. The picture is now better than it ever was. I also went and swapped out those 5 white .0018-1.6kv capacitors known for causing problems, while I was in there.

That's good to hear! And smart move on the safety caps. There's no feeling like turning the TV on, and hearing "zzzzZZZZZSSSSST-PFFFFfffffffff", as the neck falls off the tube and rattles onto the chassis.

Charles

Here's a pic of it working...

Nice, curious it she width correct, or does the sweep seem to far on the right? I have a 25DC56 and I lose quite a bit on the right, can see no adj for width or horz position to center up the loss.

I picked up the hang-tag for this tv. Here's scans of it...

I also picked up some of those channel numbers with it, thinking I would finally not have to have duplicate numbers on my set, but they don't fit, they're too tall. It's odd, I wonder if they got mixed up with those from another set.

That's good to hear! And smart move on the safety caps. There's no feeling like turning the TV on, and hearing "zzzzZZZZZSSSSST-PFFFFfffffffff", as the neck falls off the tube and rattles onto the chassis.

Not to be picayunish:o, but the severed neck didn't exactly fall off as it was still captured inside the yoke which was securely strapped to the jug. The only ones i ever seen were cut right where the neck joins the bell.

This is one of 2 sets I picked up from drh4683 yesterday, it uses the very last of the horizontal solid state chassis, and the SC600 remote. Initially turning it on only revealed 2 minor problems, a dirty vol control and a problem with the channel number lights staying lit. The picture on this set is excellent, the remote unit works consistently, but after watching it for a while last night, I had more trouble with the sound. Sometimes the sound will just cut out entirely, when this happens I can still hear static when I turn the volume control, so the audio output is still working. Turning the set on and off a few times always restores the sound. This uses the 150-214 sound module, which has no transistors, just 2 ICs. Once I fix the sound, this set will probably replace my ctc-10 as my main watching set.

The other set I picked up is this 63 Zenith 19" b/w SC300 in the metal cabinet. The set itself needs some cleaning up, but works fine, although the remote receiver isn't working at all. If anyone has any of the built in antennas that go with these, I now have 3 sets that need them. I also need to come up with something to replace the missing 4 plastic pads on the bottom of this set. I think I could never collect too many Zenith b/w sets in metal cabinets, this is my 5th.

I think I've said this before, but here goes again: That chassis is the best TV ever built, and will work forever. I have plenty of parts for those, and even a few complete working spare sets. On the audio issue, I'd first check/clean/tighten the pin sockets on the IF module, and also pull the chassis and resolder EVERY ground lug (at both ends, and in some cases in the center) of each terminal strip on that chassis. By doing that, you will pre-repair about 99.999% of all known issues.

That tuner and controller can be a bit quirky, and there were two versions of it (electromechanical and full-electronic), and the electromechanical one sometimes gets problems with tuner drifting and lights going out. Again, cleaning and touching up solder connections will fix that.


Charles

Not to be picayunish:o, but the severed neck didn't exactly fall off as it was still captured inside the yoke which was securely strapped to the jug. The only ones i ever seen were cut right where the neck joins the bell.

Actually, the neck does fall all the way off on some models. The earlier ones with the 4 springs were retained by the yoke, but the later ones with the upright chassis didn't have anything but the tube neck supporting the yoke, and the convergence board was also weighing down the yoke housing.

Charles

I think I've said this before, but here goes again: That chassis is the best TV ever built, and will work forever. I have plenty of parts for those, and even a few complete working spare sets. On the audio issue, I'd first check/clean/tighten the pin sockets on the IF module, and also pull the chassis and resolder EVERY ground lug (at both ends, and in some cases in the center) of each terminal strip on that chassis. By doing that, you will pre-repair about 99.999% of all known issues.

That tuner and controller can be a bit quirky, and there were two versions of it (electromechanical and full-electronic), and the electromechanical one sometimes gets problems with tuner drifting and lights going out. Again, cleaning and touching up solder connections will fix that.


Charles

That was an old post, the sound IF module had actually been cracked, and someone had attempted to resolder the traces across the crack. I wound up just replacing the whole unit. The lights going out on the tuner was just caused by dirty contacts.

The only issue I'm having now, is when the set's only been on for about 30 min or less, it will intermittently flash white horizontal lines across the screen. (Not too often though, sometimes it doesn't do it at all) It appears to be identical to a problem I had on another color Zenith that turned out to be caused by a corroded focus pin inside the crt socket. But that's not the case here, I took the crt socket apart and it was fine. I haven't had much time to work on tvs lately, so I was kind of hoping the problem would either get better in which case I wouldn't have to worry about it, or get worse and more consistent in which case it would be easier to track down.

[QUOTE=kx250rider;3027900]I think I've said this before, but here goes again: That chassis is the best TV ever built, and will work forever. I have plenty of parts for those, and even a few complete working spare sets. On the audio issue, I'd first check/clean/tighten the pin sockets on the IF module, and also pull the chassis and resolder EVERY ground lug (at both ends, and in some cases in the center) of each terminal strip on that chassis. By doing that, you will pre-repair about 99.999% of all known issues.

:D A 25DC57 (non-SC with faux slate top cabinet) "traded in" for a Sony at the store in 1985 never made it back to the warehouse...but came home instead, lasting my parents another 15 years! All it needed initially was a critical HV cap (base to emitter on the H output transisitor, a zener diode in the regulator for 24 v and a cathode clean on the CRT to look like new.:thmbsp:

Does anybody remember the 9-57-VCR (upgrade H osc module) that had a piggyback 9-90-02 on it. It eliminated the "flag-waving" when playing a VCR.:scratch2:

I have extra chassis and parts as well.

Does anybody remember the 9-57-VCR (upgrade H osc module) that had a piggyback 9-90-02 on it. It eliminated the "flag-waving" when playing a VCR.:scratch2:



I have one or two of those... Only needed on VHS, if I recall; and since Zenith only sold Beta VCRs for the first several years, it was very hospitable of them to make that module :thmbsp: . Wasn't there also a 9-90-VCR for the upright chassis?

Charles

If you still have the 9-57 board for VCR, I will buy it from you. What was the number that Zenith used for the updated module?

If you still have the 9-57 board for VCR, I will buy it from you. What was the number that Zenith used for the updated module?

I will look to see what I have. I saved all the parts from the two 25DC57 sets I parted out. One of them was a remote control:yes:
I will PM you if I have the 9-57-VCR (9-90 piggy-back on a 9-57 PCB)

This is one of 2 sets I picked up from drh4683 yesterday, it uses the very last of the horizontal solid state chassis, and the SC600 remote. Initially turning it on only revealed 2 minor problems, a dirty vol control and a problem with the channel number lights staying lit. The picture on this set is excellent, the remote unit works consistently, but after watching it for a while last night, I had more trouble with the sound. Sometimes the sound will just cut out entirely, when this happens I can still hear static when I turn the volume control, so the audio output is still working. Turning the set on and off a few times always restores the sound. This uses the 150-214 sound module, which has no transistors, just 2 ICs. Once I fix the sound, this set will probably replace my ctc-10 as my main watching set.

The other set I picked up is this 63 Zenith 19" b/w SC300 in the metal cabinet. The set itself needs some cleaning up, but works fine, although the remote receiver isn't working at all. If anyone has any of the built in antennas that go with these, I now have 3 sets that need them. I also need to come up with something to replace the missing 4 plastic pads on the bottom of this set. I think I could never collect too many Zenith b/w sets in metal cabinets, this is my 5th.
Hi,
Just a general question about Zenith Avanti 25" floor models from 1969-74. I see yours is a flat front (No dials). Just wondering if they made a space command remote for earlier models with dials...and if so, did the dial move when changing the channels with the remote?
Strange question, right?
We had a tv as a kid that we think was an Avanti, but we aren't sure. My sister and I agree that the remote clicker made the dial turn on the tv. The body styling looks right.
Hope you can help,
Gumbycrunch

There actually is a motor in ones like mine that physically rotate a switch. It's just not something that's accessible from the front. Rather, there's buttons on the control panel behind the door for changing the channel (called power-tuning). The motor is inside the set behind that panel, the switch it rotates is actually two switches that are sandwiched between two circuit boards. (one changes the channel and one changes which number lights up to the left of the panel) You can preset 14 channels, and which frequency each channel is set to is controlled by 14 little thumbwheels on the control panel.

The first Zenith remote set was in 1956, something called the flashmatic (the remote looked like a ray-gun and used visible light directed at photosensors on the set) The first Zenith space command ultrasonic remote was in 1957 (which does have manual knob-in-front tuning, and a motor to rotate the tuner - I have a '57 SC200 21" B&W console). The last that has a motor to physically rotate a tuner to change the channel was probably in 1979. (I have a '79 19" color table set with the SC1000 and manual tuning, but the knob is hidden behind a door)

The first year for the Avanti was, I believe, 1972 because I've seen them with the hybrid chassis, and they made them at least until '79, because I've seen System 3 Avantis. I know for certain there were non-remote Avantis with knob tuning. But as to whether there was ever a remote Avanti with manual tuning - I've never seen one, but that doesn't mean they didn't exist. I can take a look through my Zenith manuals later and see if anything comes up.

An incomplete Avanti history

B- line 1971 none shown

C-line 1972
First flat chassis & varactor tuners intro.
C4730X1 non SC, probably hybrid.
C6730X1 remote, varactor tuner, almost sure a flat chassis.

D-line 1973
D4760X non SC
SD2564X SC
SD2568X pop up combo. Separate SPKRS, AM-FM, 8T player.
Set itself also has 2 spkrs so is abt 6" wider. VERY rare.

E-line 1974
4 lead cap intro !
Switch from flat to CC2 chassis came mid line so MAY have come either way.
E4760X non SC
SE2564X SC
SE2590X combo as above

F-line
SF2590X " Avante XV" flat chassis ! combo as above.
SF2564X "Avante XIV" CC2
F4760X "Avante XIV" non SC
mini Avantes 19"
SF1962X "Avante XI" SC
F4082X "Avante XI" non SC

G-line 1976
G4750X non SC. Gets new 18 position rotary tuner.

1977-1980 catologues missing

M line 1981
SM2535X "Avante 2000" SC, OSD w/clock, comb filter.
2nd generation System 3
That seems to be the last one...........

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

I had a D-line (1973) 25V console 25DC57 - the common fugly Mediterranean/plastic molding cabinet. I parted it out to fix other sets.

This model came with space command (4-button clicker) and a standard knob tuner (GVG). Of course set did not tune UHF channels with remote.

I would not be surprised to see an Avanti model with this equipment, those 1972-77 non-varactor rotary tuners performed a bit better in fringe areas.

An incomplete Avanti history

B- line 1971 none shown

C-line 1972
First flat chassis & varactor tuners intro.
C4730X1 non SC, probably hybrid.
C6730X1 remote, varactor tuner, almost sure a flat chassis.

D-line 1973
D4760X non SC
SD2564X SC
SD2568X pop up combo. Separate SPKRS, AM-FM, 8T player.
Set itself also has 2 spkrs so is abt 6" wider. VERY rare.

E-line 1974
4 lead cap intro !
Switch from flat to CC2 chassis came mid line so MAY have come either way.
E4760X non SC
SE2564X SC
SE2590X combo as above

F-line
SF2590X " Avante XV" flat chassis ! combo as above.
SF2564X "Avante XIV" CC2
F4760X "Avante XIV" non SC
mini Avantes 19"
SF1962X "Avante XI" SC
F4082X "Avante XI" non SC

G-line 1976
G4750X non SC. Gets new 18 position rotary tuner.

1977-1980 catologues missing

M line 1981
SM2535X "Avante 2000" SC, OSD w/clock, comb filter.
2nd generation System 3
That seems to be the last one...........

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

I have what must be one of the D line sets in the white pedestal cabinet with the pop up. It worked great for a couple of years (except the 8-track player), at which point the yoke at the back of the CRT broke and I haven't any luck finding another. The stereo still works great and has surprisingly good sound for the day. If anyone knows where I could find a good replacement CRT, please let me know. If not, I'm going to give it away or junk it, which is a shame.

Is the CRT itself broken or the yoke ??? The CRT or yoke should be easy to
find used. Hows about a pix of what you need? There is also one repair
you MUST MUST do if you fix her up if it hasnt been done yet.
Whatever you do DONT throw it away. Its a very rare set & if you have
the matching speakers thats even better.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !



I have what must be one of the D line sets in the white pedestal cabinet with the pop up. It worked great for a couple of years (except the 8-track player), at which point the yoke at the back of the CRT broke and I haven't any luck finding another. The stereo still works great and has surprisingly good sound for the day. If anyone knows where I could find a good replacement CRT, please let me know. If not, I'm going to give it away or junk it, which is a shame.

I have what must be one of the D line sets in the white pedestal cabinet with the pop up. It worked great for a couple of years (except the 8-track player), at which point the yoke at the back of the CRT broke and I haven't any luck finding another. The stereo still works great and has surprisingly good sound for the day. If anyone knows where I could find a good replacement CRT, please let me know. If not, I'm going to give it away or junk it, which is a shame.

If you could get it a ride to the ETF I'd gladly pay you $50 for it as is.