I wonder if I need this...

25$

Yes, you do.

well alrighty then...

:D

Now how to sneak it in...

Sure, why not ?

If the chassis is a basket case, I was thinking of using the cabinet to house my CTC-16 which has a termite riddled cab. The main issue now is just space...

I know it will be a franken set, but I really want to bring in the CTC-16 and the SO will not go for it in the present condition (doused with a lot of termite killer).

Of course more likely than not the chassis will be a easy fix as most of my mid 60's sets have been so far. I like the style, just have been looking for more color sets lately.

Oh heck, I'd pile it in...

SO is really fighting it, made me just take an inventory of TV's....

Emersons WEREN'T that common, even a B&W I think is worth saving...

No joy tonight, maybe tomorrow, I hope it does not have a hot chassis.

I'm sure it does have a hot chassis. I had a metal cabinet w/ screw on legs version of that set that did.

I have an Emerson portable from that era-they seem a lot more common than the consoles. Mine seems to be well built.

See, Dave, we didn't tell you about this when you got started collecting...these things contain powerful electromagnets (yokes, big transformers, etc.) which tends to attract other old TV sets. The more you have, the more that will be drawn to you. It can be scary, but you get used to it after awhile. Your wife, on the other hand...

yea... she kinda had a mini revolt today, not sure how I am going to work this one in....

I told her you have to get them when the getting is good, not like you can go to walmart and pick one up.

I am waiting for her to take the kids shopping, that will be my chance to sneak out grab it. They will never even know there is yet another in the garage.

This hobby def grabs hard, I have not flown a model helo or jet in nearly a year...

You sure do seem to run into them.I am about 80 miles south of you and don't see
anything like that.Definitely grab it if you can without causing too much consternation.

My family's had a rule for similar things that usually fill up garages (file cabinets, desks, etc.) When/if a new piece comes in, an old, junky, useless piece goes out. Maintains balance, and the junk gets cleared out. Win-win!

planning a recon mission today, waiting for a distraction....

Ahh, just backhand her one 'crost the mouth...Like they do in the old cartoons...Add an "Ahhh, Shaddup !" while she's whizzin' thru the air. She'll get the message....TVs is worth more than spousal bliss, anyhoo...Right after Lauriann & I got hitched, I got her & Bethany, my little "girlfriend", in the "Ship's Radio Room", & kinda told them what my collection of Boatanchor Junque was & what it was worth, so they'd know between the 2 of 'em hopefully NOT to let it go for a song, once I Kick the Bucket. Bethany's eyes got big as saucers, & you could see the wheels a-spinnin' in her head...Lauriann kinda looked at her & went, "Whoa, Little Girl, I gotta go TOO before you get YOUR hands on 'em..." Bethany shot her a look like, "Well, THAT can be arrainged..."

My wife looks for tv's for me. Even if there is no more room she will find a place. I feel so lucky. She doesn't say anything about my tv's, radios, what have you, and I don't say any thing about her craft stuff.

Most of the time I get my way, prob will this time just need to get out and go get it.

Got it, nice folks, chatted for a while. In the back of the X now will get it out tomorrow to look it over.

23CP4

nice looking chassis, oh and 5U4 and power tranny! glad to see that combo.

twin speakers, could not locate the output tube (hoping for a 6bq5), the Fly was under some metal shielding that did not want to come off, it was bolted on but one bolt did not seem to want to come out.

Mostly dipped looking caps and disc, a few white ceramic tube types. Neatly layed out vertical chassis. maybe a couple bumble bees/black beauties.

more later its still in teh back of the truck, just got the back off to poke around. Pretty small actually, only about 18" deep. cabinet seems to have a thick gloss finish, not great but not too bad either. Knobs have normal plastic chrome wear off. I like what I see so far.

emisson looks good, right at the good bad divide which means it should be fine, cut off was the same almost in the good zone. I am letting it cook for several hours to see if it gets any better. It will fit on the bench so I will be bringing it in later tonite to start checking it out. will start with a check for shorted B+ then replace a few of the known to be problem caps. check the filter caps next. Then pull the HOT and VOT and do a slow power up. If nothing smokes then will put them in and give it a go. Dont know if pulling the VOT is really needed but I dont like the idea of a slow power up with a oscillator of any kind that is a power tube.

power up went fine, nice raster, just have to get a video signal to it now.

got pic, need to replace the horz AFC diodes to get a horz lock, fix the tuner (it uses a belt to drive the fine tune belt was off, and replaced the channel 3 strip in the tuner as it was missing the adj slug). Now I get 1.5 pics and weak vert lock.

Not sure what this is about, the screen fills up but not with one pic but more like 1.5 pics. You can center the bar and get about 3/4 of a pic above and below if that makes since (should be 1/2 above and below the bar. And it does not lock in, not really rolling but will slowly drift.

here it is. Any Idea where the model number would be? there is a small paper sticker on the fly cover. 352446

Found it T1832 got the scehmatic

looks like a bad cap in the vert circuit, from plate to grid of amp to osc tube. replaced it, will try tomorrow, but that certainly would goof up the works. I replaced it with a 1600v vs 1000v. I only had a .0033 not a .0039, but I figure it is pretty close given tolarances of the day. only one other ceramic tube caps tested 'iffy' did not leak, just did not open all the way on the eye on cap test. I will be ordering some later of the correct values, but with higher voltage and tighter tolarances.

got it going, seems only one bad cap in the vert osc circuit.

I will need to check the condition of the old can caps, let it run all day, etc...

I am not in a hurry anymore to replace the cans, that is if they check out very well. I did replace the ceramic tube paper caps, I dont trust those at all esp the HV ones (1kv and up).

Many of the filter caps from the 60s still have some life left in them. Personally, I wait until trouble brews on these. If it were from the 50s, though, I would change them.

well I am starting to get a 4 sided shrink so I may look at them again.

I goofed up the IF alignment (dont ask) so I tapped into the vert detetor TP and ran the video feed directly from the converter box to there, audio to the grid of the 1st audio (pulled the audio IF tube) and get a nice clean pic and sound. I may make that perm option (use a switch to turn off the power to the tuner) if I cant get the IF back into alignment.

one of the IF coils was broken up my me so I came up with this, works well for adj the slug.

The smaller end slips into the coil form, the larger dia sits on top. All held in place with a couple small drops of med CA glue.

turned it on a lathe after drilling and tapping a wood dowel.

looks like I may have an agc issue. 0v on the test point pin, if I put in -.7v the pic is much more stable, no tearing or sync issues. I was thinking I had an alignment problem all along, thinking agc is the key now...

looking good now will get some pics up soon.

I goofed up the alignment in a misguided attempt to "improved" the pic.

The real issue was a improper set of the AGC control. I was able to get the alignment back in order (see the tech section TV IF Alignment), adj the AGC and its looking very good now. I am letting it cook for a few hours to test it all out, but I think it will be a go.

here is a pic looks beter in real life. The alignment also made the channel 3 work as channel 3 and the fine tuning is much less critical.

AGC acted up again, pretty sure there is something thermal going on in there as it will eventully settle down, if I bypass the agc TP to ground with a .5 cap it works fine, right away. I will put a scope on the AGC and see what is going on, it reads -1.5 the whole time but I feel the 1.5 must have a bunch of garbage on it that is messing things up. I may just end up replacing all the parts in the AGC line to be sure. I did try a diff tube, no help.

Replaced a few more caps (they were the hard tube ceramic type, initally tested ok but what the heck) AGC work right now, looks very clean on the scope, picture is very good, on par with a direct video feed.

Anyone working on a vintage set, I HIGHLY recommend putting a scope on the AGC test point, esp if its a keyed AGC. A simple meter reading will not show the junk that maybe riding along (mine had the correct AGC voltage, but the AGC was the problem).

I am going to replace the damper tube as I have a slightly lighter screen on the left side.

more fiddling, I could not leave well enough alone, checked the IF curve and it was messed up, only one hump, turned out to be an intermittant connection on one of the IF transformers. re did the alignment for a broader band pass, less overall gain. The result is an excellant picture. Plus I "think" the vertical sync pulse is stronger (based on the size and what I remember it looking like).

This pictrue tube is by far the best of my B&W sets, excellant pictrue.

I was going to rebuild the vertical integrater for practice, using some copper clad pcb and discreet componets. I may still do that. Also the only other issue is the slighly jagged hammer on the vert sync pulse. Not sure about the relationship of the vert sync pulse and the effect its haveing on the horz sync just on the hammer. I am wondering if somehow the hipass filter of the horz sync is some how getting a bit of the vert sync low pass in.

here is a screen shot, looks better in person, the glare is not there on the face of Ward

decided to leave the vert intergrater alone for now, I have lots of other projects that need the attention.

I wiped some restrore a finish on the bunged up legs, made them look a lot better. The set has a very glossy finish (sorta like a grundig) with some scratches in it, and some minor scrapes on the edges. I am going to try some rubbing compound on it. The plastic bezel around the crt is plastic painted gold. Not perfect but ok. The feet could take a coat of brass colored paint as they were pretty rusty. Other than those cosmetic issues this is prob my best B&W set as far as the picture goes. I like the legs, sets it up a bit higer for viewing. I think I can find a home for it in the office next to my grundig console, same style (the legs) should look nice. I plan to use it as a daily driver for my vintage watching at lunch time.

Next up a few quick looks at the Sylvania SS color. If I can find a quick fix great. If not I will jump back to the smalle maggie am/fm/phono/tv console and see if I can get that interlace worked out. I am pretty sure its going to be in the vert integrated.

GREAT job !! Aren't you glad you got it now ?!?

yepper, turned out to be a good one!

Update:

its is developing a vert sync lock issue. the vert hold is critical, will drift as it warms up.

I tried subbing the sync sep tube, no joy. The video signal is strong, horz lock no problem. The blanking bar looks good, the hammer is slightly jagged (the start and stop points are offset so it not a nice perfect rectangle, but its been like that for a long time, before the issue).

I suspect its the vert integrater since the vert osc seems to have plenty of adjusment both way, just a very soft lock.

I will get the scope out 1st and check the vert sync pulse to see how it looks before and after the integrater. The plan is to check the pulse before the integrater, then pull the vert out tube (brightness all the way down) and check the grid of the vert mult tube and see how it looks.

I hope this is a push over since I really like watching this set and don't want a dog.

well I just have not seen enough sync pulse traces to conclusively say it looks weak, but it looks weak. And this is at the video detector, so its before the sync separater.

I think this may tie into the jagged hammer as well. I am going to try using a detector prob and see if I can trace the composite signal back.

What bothers me is the pic is VERY good. I am wondering if my vert sync could some how be getting clipped.

prob try clamping the AGC again..

Dave, look at it this way: this hobby keeps you out from underfoot, and keeps you home where tabs can be kept on you, and you're not out running around somewhere doing who knows what. You need to play up this angle.

:yes:

LOL

I am going to try ANOTHER sync tube, but I will make sure it test good even if its NOS.

I checked all the voltage/resistance, one was off on the AGC side of the sync tube was 70v not 40v but since it was on the AGC side I discounted that as part of issue.

It was working fine and has slowly been getting worse. not it will barely lock at all. Horz is rock solid.

argh, new strong sync tube and vert osc/video amp tube, and no joy, still critical setting that will drift, so tonight I will be making up an vert low pass filter integrater.

I figrue it can't hurt. I am assuming the sync signal I see off the sync tube is ok, I see practially nothing resembling a sync pulse at the grid of the vert mult tube.

Just to be sure I injected a composite signal at the testpoint, I just wanted to make sure my IF was not clipping, and I get the same roll instability (and the same looking video sync look on the scope from the output of the DVD) so I am pretty sure it has to be a vert integrater (not much left).

There is a network that takes the video signal and couples that to the sync tube, I have to assume its ok since the horz is working fine, and the horz has to come thru there as well.

FAR OUT :banana:

ROCK SOLID ON VERT ROLL!!!

I made up a little pcb with some copper clad perboard and discreate parts, works GREAT! you can practically turn the vert hold 1/4 way before it breaks loose. Got my favorite B&W back in action.