I just picked this set up on the south side tonight. The seller actually had it powered up and playing when I arrived Nice to know the xfrmrs are good, but I never would have plugged it in without going over it first :no:

It's filthy and the veneer is in rough shape, but it appears to be all original and unmolested. I'm not sure about that finish though. It's kind of a dull brown - not very attractive.

It's very, very heavy. I'm guessing 90+ pounds :drool:
It'll stay in the garage until I can round up some help.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2717/4175147535_8cece592ed_b.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4175148433_97beb21f3e_b.jpg


I'm not sure if the clock is working yet or if there should be glass over it.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2675/4175148177_b30f2e76e6.jpg

The speak is in rough shape. There are large tears in the cone and I have no idea how it should be covered. Cloth?
Seems like a bad idea to point the speaker straight up accoustics-wise.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2679/4175908326_e55e828c5b.jpg

Looks like one of the original wooden knob is missing.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4175911080_c36f00d662.jpg

The chassis looks to be in good condition.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2643/4175909202_ff5e1d51e5.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4175909480_4cd51c9327.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2783/4175150219_46b036d56a.jpg

Lots of nice, old Sylvania tubes with the green leaf label including some 245s. Filthy, but they clean up real nice.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2579/4175181219_74d68ee67d.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2727/4175181429_bef0158d0a.jpg

I really don't know anything about this model so any info or advice is much appreciated.

Thanks!
Bob

More pictures here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70039806@N00/sets/72157622977647486/detail/) if you are interested.

Almost forgot - I grabbed this "bowtie" antenna while I was there too. Tons of old stuff in that basement!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2527/4175971236_eca7f44066.jpg

Great score Bob! :thmbsp: Love those green-leaf syvanias. :yes:

Thanks. There are lots of 120+ year old buildings in Chicago packed with goodies in the basement. Usually the sellers have no idea what they have though so the listings on CL can be tough to find.

You guys in chicagoland always so damn lucky. I never find anything around here. :sigh: I bet zenith stuff is common place there.

You guys in chicagoland always so damn lucky. I never find anything around here. :sigh: I bet zenith stuff is common place there.

You're in Michigan - right? I've seen some good stuff on CL up your way.
I see a lot of Admirals, Motorolas and RCAs around here. Some Zeniths, but not too many. I don't have any in my collection yet.

Lots of old radios too, but they're all over the midwest. I hope you start finding some good stuff.

Wasnt Zenith based in Chicago? I would think they would be easier to find for that reason. I could be wrong however, because they were sold everywhere.

The only nice CL listing lately (too expensive):

http://muskegon.craigslist.org/ele/1504182063.html

Yes, I believe Zenith was based in Chicago too.

Depends what you're into I suppose. I did some quick searching and I grab any of these. Including a Philco Predicta for only $50 :banana:

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/atq/1499782098.html (Predicta)
http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/atq/1461406120.html (nice Philco)
http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/atq/1468302861.html (nice Sparton)

That thing is just insanely cool. I would have been all over it like a fly on a dog turd.

I've gotten some more info on this set. It is supposed to have glass over the clock. It shouldn't be too hard to fabricate a replacement.

Apparently, there has a wicker screen with a wood frame that protected the speaker on top. If I can find a decent picture, maybe I'll try out my non-existent basket weaving skills :o

Man ! I wish you were closer-I have a guy who is an absolute WHIZ at furniture refinishing...And his wife re-canes chairs...This would be a "Cake" job for them...And I'm sure Terry could have the set "talkin'", too...

I have never seen anything like that. Very cool.

I have never seen anything like that. Very cool.

Neither had I. I'd seen Philco grandfather clock/.radios before but nothing like this. I thought it was a "frankenset" at first so had to ask around.

Man ! I wish you were closer-I have a guy who is an absolute WHIZ at furniture refinishing...And his wife re-canes chairs...This would be a "Cake" job for them...And I'm sure Terry could have the set "talkin'", too...

I sure wouldn't mind a little help with the cabinet restoration. Turns out it doesn't have any wicker on top though. That's a different model. The older and less common the set , the harder it is to find accurate info.
This one just has cloth and I have a small of what I hope is original material.

I finally got it up two flights of stairs and took some more photos.

I don't see any evidence of there being glass.
Any thoughts on cleaning the clock face? I think it may be nickel plating ?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4177244675_76f65aaa0c.jpg

Nice wooden knobs. I'm missing one, but have a lead on a replacement already :D
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2745/4178004456_c7749131a2.jpg

Here's the speaker in more detail and my little fragment of cloth.
It sure needs a re-coning!
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2712/4177246823_52a94d1d1a_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2697/4177246335_31499d67cd_b.jpg

Should there be horizontal bracing at these two points? Seem like somethings missing.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2574/4178007572_5e56a43bf6.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2686/4177247079_32dc6cbf6f.jpg

Veneer damage. The separation isn't so bad - I can glue it back down. The missing bits are another story. Any guesses on the wood? I figure it's either mahogany or walnut.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4177245429_4ccafaeba1.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4177244933_4fd122eed0.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2582/4178005246_dd57334eec.jpg

Try some Windex on a paper towel on the faceplate. Get a little, hidden spot first - sometimes those inks/paints don't react well to cleaners.

GREAT FIND! :banana::banana::banana::banana:

"I'm not sure if the clock is working yet or if there should be glass over it."

I have only seen one other example of this set and it did not have glass either. (or any evidence that glass had been mounted). I was told that the glass was left off so that the clock could be easily set.

jr

Try some Windex on a paper towel on the faceplate. Get a little, hidden spot first - sometimes those inks/paints don't react well to cleaners.

Right, especially the Philco plastic-y dials. The ink they used is water soluble!

It turns out this is actually silver plate and that's all tarnish. I tried a little TarnX on a Q-tip. It cetainly helps, but I think it will take a lot of polishing to really make it bight and shiny. I think all that rubbing will ruin the painted numbers though :scratch2:

GREAT FIND! :banana::banana::banana::banana:

"I'm not sure if the clock is working yet or if there should be glass over it."

I have only seen one other example of this set and it did not have glass either. (or any evidence that glass had been mounted). I was told that the glass was left off so that the clock could be easily set.

jr

Thanks. I read elsewhere that it may have had an acetate "bubble" over the clock face. If I can confirm that, I may try making one with a clear plastic sheet, a wooden mold and the oven.

Right, especially the Philco plastic-y dials. The ink they used is water soluble!

It turns out this is actually silver plate and that's all tarnish. I tried a little TarnX on a Q-tip. It cetainly helps, but I think it will take a lot of polishing to really make it bight and shiny. I think all that rubbing will ruin the painted numbers though :scratch2:

If you can find something that won't hurt the paint, maybe a "dip and soak" type of metal cleaner would work. I'd scan the face first so that you can get it re-screened if necessary. There are companies that do re-screening of clocks and car gauges.

If you can find something that won't hurt the paint, maybe a "dip and soak" type of metal cleaner would work. I'd scan the face first so that you can get it re-screened if necessary. There are companies that do re-screening of clocks and car gauges.

That's a great idea. I'll try to pull the clock out later tonight.

One of these days a grandfather (grandmother?) clock radio is going to follow me home. I only recall seeing 3 for sale over the years. The first was at a great old antique store near home, a place I loved to explore as a kid. I think it was a Philco, but might have been a Crosley. Way over my price range at the time. Later I found a set like this one, in similiar conditon, in the back room of an antique mall. It sat there for a long time with too hefty a price tag. I probably should have bought it. The last one was a Columnaire, too, but the version without a clock. (which makes you think, what's the point?) That was at an auction-they allowed proxy bidding so I left something like $75, didn't win it. They also had a Kiel-table Atwater Kent at that sale. No idea what they sold for.

Anyway, a great set-an attention getter. I've had decent luck with those chassis working right from the start.

Sam's idea of using "silver dip" on the clock, like the kind for fine jewelry is a good idea. Try it on a small spot first though. Like what was said already, the biggest concern would be the numbers on the clock face coming off if the "dip" is too strong chemically. Make sure the clock face is thoroughly rinsed in water and dried with a towel. Weird that the clock face is silver, one would think that it would tarnish after only a few years of use.

The paint they used is holding up really well to cleaning :) So far one round of TarnX.

I'd remove the face from the clock, but I can't figure out how and don't want to break anything.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2541/4182696066_0dd07c7b17.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2599/4182696596_c0587b5657.jpg

There is either a pin and washer or a threaded nut at the top of the hands. Take it off, and you can wiggle the hands free. After that, it's probably just held on by a nut under the hands.

I'd just glue those tears in the speaker's cone together and add patches of paper to close the holes, to keep it original!

If the cone is missing really large chunks, or is rotten and beyond repair, i'd install a new one but i'd keep the original leather surround which seems to be in in good shape.

I hooked up the clock and it works :banana:

There is either a pin and washer or a threaded nut at the top of the hands. Take it off, and you can wiggle the hands free. After that, it's probably just held on by a nut under the hands.

Yes, there is a pin I can easily remove, but the hands are really stubborn. I think I'll leave it alone for now.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2579/4185885251_4015a4911b.jpg

I'd just glue those tears in the speaker's cone together and add patches of paper to close the holes, to keep it original!

If the cone is missing really large chunks, or is rotten and beyond repair, i'd install a new one but i'd keep the original leather surround which seems to be in in good shape.

I started cleaning out the speaker and found the chunk of plaster responsible for that big hole :uzi:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2446/4186642020_437d626cd1.jpg

I think you're right about being able to salvage it though.
I'm hoping that the missing piece of cone paper may still be inside the radio somewhere or even in my car. I'll do some hunting.

Do you think I should put a little leather conditioner on that leather surround? It's fairly dried out and stiff.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2579/4185884925_c3a84928eb.jpg

I recorded a little YouTube video of the clock and damaged speaker (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0peBDfj9fDU) in more detail.

Bob

I hooked up the clock and it works :banana:



Yes, there is a pin I can easily remove, but the hands are really stubborn. I think I'll leave it alone for now.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2579/4185885251_4015a4911b.jpg

It looks like there is a small hex nut on top of the hands. I've never had any vintage clock hands fail to pop off with a bit of side-to-side rocking.

OK - I'm a little thick sometimes :stupid: I thought that nut was fused to the minute hand.

Here it is taken apart. There were four tiny screws holding the face on - no sneezing!

It's quite dirty under there. I'm thinking of using a solvent like odorless mineral spirits then some fine machine oil on the gears.

Any suggestions?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2764/4187195528_e38abb9ede_b.jpg

Thanks!

Do you think I should put a little leather conditioner on that leather surround? It's fairly dried out and stiff.


We both need advice on this!

I also need to soften the leather surround of a late 1920s speaker (you can see it in the "really old speaker" thread i just opened)

What i'm not sure about is the effect the conditioner may have on the paper cone if it migrates into it from the surround, and the best kind of conditioner to use on paper-thin 80 years old leather

different kinds of hides were used by different manufacturers to make speaker surrounds back then, sheepskin, horse hide and carpincho were the most popular ones, determining the kind of leather used in your speaker may help in finding the right conditioner for it.

If you can'f find the missing piece of your cone, a patch cut off a scrap speaker cone of similar size will also work!

Any chance that "pin" is the remnants of a second hand?

John

"I hooked up the clock and it works :banana:"

What does the little "3 2 1 0" slider do? Is it for starting the clock? ..."sleep" timer?

Does that little shaft in the center rotate ?

jr

Any chance that "pin" is the remnants of a second hand?

John

Bingo. Now I just need to find an intact one :rolleyes:

"I hooked up the clock and it works :banana:"

What does the little "3 2 1 0" slider do? Is it for starting the clock? ..."sleep" timer?

Does that little shaft in the center rotate ?

jr

It's seems to be a timer of some sort, but doesn't do much as it winds down. If you watch this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0peBDfj9fDU), you can seem me trying to use it.

Yes, I just discovered that shaft is for a second hand. It works with an escapement to rotate in 'ticks' rather than a smooth rotation.

Nice video :thmbsp:

Found this description of the Westinghouse "Automatic Control":

http://clockhistory.com/newhavenwestinghouse/index.html

:scratch2:

jr

Wow, thanks! Mystery solved :D

I suppose it's up to the owner to notice that the lights have come back on, but the clock isn't running and they'll need to reset the slider and correct the time.

Nice video :thmbsp:

Found this description of the Westinghouse "Automatic Control":

http://clockhistory.com/newhavenwestinghouse/index.html

:scratch2:

jr

Bingo. Now I just need to find an intact one :rolleyes:

Your cleanup plan seems to be a good one. Some light machine oil, applied very lightly, should be all you need for lubrication.

A suitable second hand should be available from any supplier of clock parts. There are several big companies that sell new and restoration parts for clocks, they all have online catalogs.

I would first squirt some CRC electronics cleaner downward through the clock mechanism to flush out the dirt: hold it over the garbage can. Let dry, then light oil as suggested, with a toothpick, on each bearing surface.

You could have that speaker reconed, but if you are going to try to fix it, I highly recommend using fabric glue (craft store, fabric store). It's a bit thicker than Elmer's and you might want to thin it a little with water for making the repairs. Once the repairs are made and dry, thin the glue some more with water and paint the whole face of the cone with it. It's white but dries clear and remains flexible. You don't want it too thick at this step. It will reinforce the old paper and give it some strength to survive another 80 (!) years. I had a cone with no parts missing but it was full of little hairline cracks around the outer compliance. The paper was just getting brittle. Coating it with thinned fabric glue really strengthened it and it sounds great, takes volume the way it should with no buzzes.

I have some "Fray & Stay" fabic glue I picked up to stop speaker cloth from fraying.
I wonder if that would work on the speaker ?

Go buy some Ailene's Tacky Glue at a craft store or Wal-Mart. It's what most people use for speaker re-surround jobs, and I've very successfully used it with tissue paper to repair cone damage.

Another source of paper is coffee filters. After the patch edges are dry you can paint the whole cone with black acrylic artists paint, the kind in a jar used for poster paint. After that's dry you can coat the whole cone with the thinned fabric glue.

Those upward-facing speakers were not the best idea. They were subject to damage and to dust and debris falling into them. After it's all back together you might want to operate the speaker face down for a while to see if the vibration will work out any dirt stuck down in the voice coil gap.

Go buy some Ailene's Tacky Glue at a craft store or Wal-Mart. It's what most people use for speaker re-surround jobs, and I've very successfully used it with tissue paper to repair cone damage.

Thanks. I swung by Michael's craft store tonight and picked some up. They have loads of good stuff including some manly coffee mugs :D
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2518/4192129382_2949c9fdcf.jpg

Another source of paper is coffee filters. After the patch edges are dry you can paint the whole cone with black acrylic artists paint, the kind in a jar used for poster paint. After that's dry you can coat the whole cone with the thinned fabric glue.

Those upward-facing speakers were not the best idea. They were subject to damage and to dust and debris falling into them. After it's all back together you might want to operate the speaker face down for a while to see if the vibration will work out any dirt stuck down in the voice coil gap.

Good ideas. That leaves finding a suitable piece of cone paper about 3" x 3" to patch that big hole. I searched inside the radio put couldn't find that piece.

I don't have any speaks to scavenge any from right now. Should I pick up an old speaker just for it's cone paper, or could I substitute some sort of heavy paper stock ?

When I bought my Radiobar, it looked like someone put their foot through the speaker. I patched it up using the methods described earlier in this thread, but I still had a big hole to patch. I wound up applying a coffee filter patch from the back of the speaker using some rubber cement to glue it to the cone. When it dried, I applied a layer of Aleen's tacky glue to to coffee filter patch visible from the front of the speaker. I then put another coffee filter piece over that, creating a "patch sandwich" from both sides of the cone. I used a little more rubber cement, and after it all dried, it sounded great. In fact, the Radiobar has some of the best bass response of my consoles...too bad the receiver itself is such garbage.

Since it has the automatic control, if there was an acetate cover there must have been some way to easily remove it. There doesn't appear to have been any hinges.

John

Since it has the automatic control, if there was an acetate cover there must have been some way to easily remove it. There doesn't appear to have been any hinges.

John

If there really was a cover (still debatable :)), it was held in place by friction. Since there isn't a single, scuff, scrape or mar on my wooden clock face frame, I'm voting for no cover at all.

I picked up a few items for the clock. I'm not sure what the second hand is supposed to look like so I selected several.
I think they all look pretty good, but maybe I should clip off the sculpted end so it's more angular like the other hands :scratch2:

I just need to cut down the brass shaft that attaches it. I also picked up a needle oiler and some new #0 screws.

I never thought I'd be restoring a clock!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2755/4204431162_36a73a1309_b.jpg

Thanks to all your great tips, I've finished restoring the speaker :banana:
I used brown coffee filter paper and Aleene's Original Tacky glue.


Here's it is all torn up.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4207647527_6241c9169a.jpg

First patches applied.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4207648027_96c4f99d68.jpg

I used some painters tape to hold it together while the patches set up.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2800/4208413776_b99937b338.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4208412440_d6415e3007.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/4207648889_995af77baa.jpg

Down to just that big hole to fill.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2621/4207649311_4393e62aed.jpg

I decide to try making a preformed patch by using a plastic sheet over a good portion of speaker cone.
Then, I cut a suitable piece of coffee filter and soaked it in diluted glue.
It work out fairly well. I was definitely able to capture the curvature, but the ridges aren't very distinct.
Even so, I think it's a promising technique.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2709/4207650171_318c149c58.jpg

Here's the patch in place.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2653/4208414634_c96d4959b7.jpg

Next, some black acrylic paint. The patch wrinkled a little during the gluing and painting, but I happy with it.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4208414994_da81da92ef.jpg

Here's the backside.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2757/4207651693_642fae60d3.jpg

Finally, I cleaned up that big wooden plug and screwed it back in.
Is this some type of vibration damper :scratch2:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2602/4207651251_68d307b582.jpg

Here's a YouTube video I made while restoring the speaker (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jW7xuJ2gHOY). If you make it to the end you can hear the radio playing :music:

Excellent work!

Watching your videos on the WR-8, I think I've figured out what that wooden plug in the speaker is for - it might be a deflector to distribute sound around the room, compensating for the upward-firing speaker.

That looks great! You have more patience than I. I would have taken one look at it and sent it in for reconing.

John

Watching your videos on the WR-8, I think I've figured out what that wooden plug in the speaker is for - it might be a deflector to distribute sound around the room, compensating for the upward-firing speaker.

That's a very good idea.

That looks great! You have more patience than I. I would have taken one look at it and sent it in for reconing.

John

Thanks. I was going to until I got some words of encouragement :D This one sure needs some reconing though!

I've seen similar vintage speakers going for around $20. I imagine reconing costs a lot more than that.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2554/4146556012_dd6aee81af.jpg

It cost me about $76.00 I'd have to try to find his address, but there's an older gentleman who will do it for $60 and I'm told he does an excellent job. I didn't find out about him until I had mine done.

John

I've broken the cabinet down as much as I can and have been gluing all the separated veneer.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2771/4229923879_f485c625c1.jpg

The veneer has separated at virtually every edge. I wonder what happened to this cabinet - high humidity, heat, crappy glue ?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/4253643112_c9fbc2e1b0.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4252885045_9763408699.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2783/4229925095_fe4ca62e27_b.jpg

Here's some of the original finish. I've ordered up some Dark Walnut Mohawk toner lacquer - should be a good match. I'll try golden oak for the center board.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4229924533_74b7663c46.jpg

I also picked up some new speaker cloth from AES that is a perfect match to the old fragments. Here's a dry run.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2775/4250123966_32d054db00.jpg

Here's the old filter capacitor. It's pre-electrolytic so that huge box just has a 2 MFD, 3 MFD, 3MFD and 0.05 MFD in there. The new ones are a little bit smaller :D

I'd like to remove that old block of tar but it's being stubborn. I figure it will shave at least 5 pounds off the weight if I can get it out :scratch2: I've tried a heat gun and the oven. Only got the first layer of tar out so far.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2653/4250123504_c313793d14_b.jpg

Maybe put that capacitor box in the oven for a while to soften up the tar?

Also I was watching some early episodes of 'Homicide: Life On the Streets' and noticed in the Lieutenant's office there was a what I think was a 'Columnaire'. Just caught a glimpse of it.

Nice work for sure.

Maybe put that capacitor box in the oven for a while to soften up the tar?...

I've tried that. It did soften up the tar, but the guts just wouldn't slide out. It's tough to work with a big, heavy, hot box oozing tar! I'll give it another go soon.

I've tried that. It did soften up the tar, but the guts just wouldn't slide out. It's tough to work with a big, heavy, hot box oozing tar! I'll give it another go soon.

I wonder if you can soften it up some in the oven. Then run a knife (a nice chef's knife from the kitchen perhaps ;-) ) around the edges to break the bond.

Turn it upside down pop it out. Sorta like a cake or loaf of bread.

Another thought might be to insert a couple of long lag screws or screw eyes into the tar. Would give you something pull on.

I finally got it out :banana::yuck:
Thanks for the suggestions. I let it cook for about 30 minutes @ 300ºF while upside-down. Gravity finally took over.

I like that idea about the screws - I'll try that next time :yes:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2681/4255730931_e4e17f0ea9_b.jpg

I finally got it out :banana::yuck:
Thanks for the suggestions. I let it cook for about 30 minutes @ 300ºF while upside-down. Gravity finally took over.


Tar filled multi-Section capacitor, it's what's for dinner!

Good job.

My, that's unpleasant! I bet the house will smell of tar for a few days, Febreeze be damned.

Do you think there will be enough room in that box for the new caps? It looks kinda tight. ;-)

I keep a corkscrew around for such purposes-really works well on the more traditional multisectional lytics we love to restuff.

Yum, yum !! Do you know what the values of the damthaing were/are ? I'd wager you can put modern ones back up in the space vacated by that nasty mess & no one will be the wiser...I sure won't tell...(grin)

Yum, yum !! Do you know what the values of the damthaing were/are ? I'd wager you can put modern ones back up in the space vacated by that nasty mess & no one will be the wiser...I sure won't tell...(grin)

A whopping

0.05 MFD
2 MFD
3 MFD
3 MFD

Yeah the new ones will fit with loads of room to spare :D

Yeah the new ones will fit with loads of room to spare.

You know you could make a 'secret compartment'. In high school I used to use a hollowed out metal case tube to hide contraband. The base would pop out with a twist. Not that I'm suggesting anything illicit. :D

You know you could make a 'secret compartment'. In high school I used to use a hollowed out metal case tube to hide contraband. The base would pop out with a twist. Not that I'm suggesting anything illicit. :D

LOL - I'm always hoping to find something hidden away in one of these old sets.

The guy I got my Philco 15DX from found some old worlds fair souvenir spoons and a scrapbook of old cigar labels tucked inside.

...Also I was watching some early episodes of 'Homicide: Life On the Streets' and noticed in the Lieutenant's office there was a what I think was a 'Columnaire'. Just caught a glimpse of it...

Cool - any idea which episode?

My, that's unpleasant! I bet the house will smell of tar for a few days, Febreeze be damned.

Do you think there will be enough room in that box for the new caps? It looks kinda tight. ;-)

Yeah, it kinda reeks in here. Too bad it's like 0 outside or I'd open a window.

Cool - any idea which episode?

Not sure. It's early on season one or two. I have the DVD set so I'll go looking sometime.

From time to time there are appearances of other vintage electronics. Like the odd clock radio or old suitcase style record player.

I decided to use some sweet Cornell Dubilier non-polarized polypropylene caps instead of electrolytics. I think it's a little more authentic this way.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4277193061_cc32b77121_b.jpg

That's exactly what I did with my Majestic 71. Not only is it more authentic, they'll outlive us all. I didn't want to risk having to open mine again in the future because of a failed electrolytic. Especially since I had to fabricate a new can.

John

Bandersen -

I'm so thankful for this thread. A couple days after you found your WR-8, I found a WR-8-R, and I've found your thread to be such a help as I've gone through a similar restoration process. It was a huge help to see how you tackled the caps, etc. PLEASE keep posting pics and explanations of what you found worked. I'm especially interested to see how you're going to handle the rest of the caps. There's at least one that's in a box with a choke coil, I believe. Anyway, thanks again, and please keep posting your progress!

Zach

Bandersen -

I'm so thankful for this thread. A couple days after you found your WR-8, I found a WR-8-R, and I've found your thread to be such a help as I've gone through a similar restoration process. It was a huge help to see how you tackled the caps, etc. PLEASE keep posting pics and explanations of what you found worked. I'm especially interested to see how you're going to handle the rest of the caps. There's at least one that's in a box with a choke coil, I believe. Anyway, thanks again, and please keep posting your progress!

Zach


Hi Zach, glad you're enjoying my posts and don't worry - I'll keep them coming. I've just been sidetracked with restoring a couple TVs. I get distracted pretty easily by shiny new toys :D

Here's are some pics to tide you over until I get back to working on it in a week or two.

Here's the toner lacquer I'm going to use. Dark Walnut on the body and Golden Oak on the center board.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4287257520_bcd40d2872.jpg

I also picked up some Leather Brown for the power chassis.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4286519133_5a77b659f6.jpg

Finally, here are those boxes you asked about. I do plan on popping them open and restuffing. The larger has a 1.0, 0.5 0.1 and 0.1 MFD cap inside. My replacement polypropylene should fit with room to spare.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4286519449_e6d7949072_b.jpg

However, the smaller cap just takes a single 1.0 MFD and I don't think my new one will fit :tears:
I might need one that's a little "flatter".
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4287258698_e39276a04d_b.jpg

I don't think there's a choke coil in either box though. Here's the schematic I'm working from. http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/343/M0040343.pdf

I really love that old style wiring diagram. It's so easy to trace the wiring!

"However, the smaller cap just takes a single 1.0 MFD and I don't think my new one will fit
I might need one that's a little "flatter"."

How about a couple of 0.5 MFDs side-by-side?

jr

"However, the smaller cap just takes a single 1.0 MFD and I don't think my new one will fit
I might need one that's a little "flatter"."

How about a couple of 0.5 MFDs side-by-side?

jr

Sure, that's a good idea. I'm just disappointed that I might not be able to use the $3 cap I bought :(

I'm back to working on the radio this weekend. Here's the underside of the receiver chassis. It's a real PITA to get at the capacitors and resistors.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4301026235_9ccf0b97fb_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2801/4301774632_d77bd9335f_b.jpg

First up, I tackled the 5-section capacitor block.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4301027215_8aef332157_b.jpg

I discovered that a small chisel is the easy way to pry those heavy steel tabs up without leaving much of a mark.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4301028223_bacbdaf898_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4301028709_6a01024e57_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4301029309_748c410ae6_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4301029845_64f7c65549_b.jpg

I melted out the tar to free up the old caps and expose the metal contacts.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2762/4301778332_6337a7733c_b.jpg

I cleaned up all the parts with lacquer thinner.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2690/4301778876_cea518f7e5_b.jpg

Here are the new caps wired in. I'll be used some two-part epoxy to glue them down the the backing board.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2764/4301779386_cd75f48228_b.jpg

Here's a dry fit of it all back together. I think I'll just stuff a little packing material inside rather than filling it with a potting compound. Never know if I might need to get back in there :)
I'll also be painting it flat black.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4301032025_43c0e7916b_b.jpg

Next, I took a closer look at that nasty IF can.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4191368223_d513573349_b.jpg

Luckily it's just surface corrosion and it came off easily with some rust remover. I couldn't resist trying a little metal polish on them :) The plating is gone from the corroded areas so they're dull grey.
Of course, no one will ever see them on the underside of the chassis once it's back together.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2757/4301056125_4b5a814444_b.jpg

I didn't realize cadmium polished up this well. I just may have to go over the entire topside. I wonder how long before it starts turning green again :scratch2:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4301804682_9dc917bcc0_b.jpg

Looking good! I hope you're wearing gloves when you polish the cadmium. We need you to continue to be around to educate us!

John

Thanks! Yes, I'm taking precautions and I really should have mentioned that. Cadmium is nasty stuff :yuck:

Here's a lilnk to more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadmium_poisoning

Good job, takes a heart surgeon's touch in some of those spots. As to needing a "flatter" 1.0 mfd. cap, Electronic Goldmine has a 1.5 mfd. 600V that's flat:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G12721

Good job, takes a heart surgeon's touch in some of those spots. As to needing a "flatter" 1.0 mfd. cap, Electronic Goldmine has a 1.5 mfd. 600V that's flat:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G12721

If they had just used some screws instead of metal tabs, it would all be so much easier!

Thanks for the tip about Electronic Goldmine - I'd forgotten about them. I'll pop that cap open this weekend and find out the exact dimensions.

Here's a little update. I've finished restuffing and repainting the two multi-section caps. That just leaves the 1 MFD box cap. I picked up a new cap that's a little smaller and I think it will fit.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2787/4313912131_0ce606d028_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4313911861_0766bf30f1_b.jpg

Nice! Time to start heating up the tar?:yuck:

jr

Nice! Time to start heating up the tar?:yuck:

jr

Oh, no - no way :no: I spent way too much time cleaning all that tar out :D
I've refilled a couple with wax before, but I think I'll just use a little foam packing to prevent vibration.

Thanks to matt_s78mn, I have almost a complete set of NOS RCA Radiotron period tubes for this set :banana:
I'm only missing a UX280. Also, one output tube is a 45 while the other is a UX245. I don't think there's any difference though.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4409164103_a07c37dc94_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2619/4409930468_873926fa55_b.jpg

One thing I did notice right away is the filament glow. These old 224s light up immediately with a bright white light. Later 24As have the typical slowly brightening, orange glow. I guess that's what the A means - controlled, improved filament glow ?

The UX245 required some assembly. I couldn't find any evidence that the leads were ever soldered. Maybe some sloppy quality control :scratch2:
Once I put a base on, it tested like new :banana:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4407557743_b01e4cc7bb.jpg

Speaking of quality control - I came across this tube :rolleyes:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4409163733_8213f7f05c.jpg

These old tubes found a great new home. Can't wait to see this radio finished and completely restored.

I'm really enjoying this thread. That Westinghouse is going to look beautiful when it's done. BTW, nice work so far.

My favorite part of restoring old radios and tv's is refinishing the wooden cabinetry. I love seeing such old stuff look like-new again.

I'm really enjoying this thread. That Westinghouse is going to look beautiful when it's done. BTW, nice work so far.

My favorite part of restoring old radios and tv's is refinishing the wooden cabinetry. I love seeing such old stuff look like-new again.

Thanks! It has been too cold and dry to do any refinishing for the last few months. Now I'm finally catching up on a backlog of damaged cabinets. I should be back working on this guy soon. I think the biggest challenge remaining is replacing all the missing veneer.

While wandering around on eBay looking for a vintage RCA speaker for my RCA 222, I stumbled across these two items. I jumped on the chassis for $15. Some of the parts on mine are corroded including the dial strip so I figure I can get usefully parts out of it.
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/westinghouse%20wr8/!BpWG!T!B2k~$%28KGrHqIOKiwEuZwZsFhzBLq8pfo0Mg~~_3. JPG

I was quite surprised to find an exact match for my speaker, only this one is in great shape. Only $15 too, but I passed on it. I guess I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort, but where's the fun in that ;)
http://www.bobandersen.com/images/westinghouse%20wr8/!BnmCB6gCGk~$(KGrHqEOKj0EtjzYJJ7tBLkFHpPh+g~~_3.JP G

I've moved on to the Rf chassis. I removed the controls and 1uF capacitor then tackled the rust.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4485005623_3109de3cf3_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4485655938_c7050bd3de_b.jpg

I used a chisel like before.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2758/4485006253_933a96c392.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4485656726_3cb81841ff.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2786/4485006937_2a02a0e407_b.jpg

I polished up OK, but the rusty areas have lost their plating and look dull.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2727/4485657388_ef4f305c9f_b.jpg


As I feared, the high quality white CD cap doesn't fit. I'll go with the slightly smaller yellow one.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4485657688_6ddb5ddbc9.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/4485658002_c2d35fe637.jpg

-

The chassis I found on Ebay has arrived. This chassis is in better condition and I'm tempted to use it. However, it doesn't have cadmium plating or copper grid lead shields so I think I'll use it as a donor chassis.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4485658352_ec237bd5bb_b.jpg


My local / distance switch is a rusted, broken mess, but it's good on the donor chassis :banana: I've been looking for a replacement for months and had just about given up!
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4485658712_534e7b0d0f.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4485008825_0b72a6a20f.jpg

I'm not sure what to do about the tuning shaft. This one is both bent and eccentric.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4485009149_b3929a3e1f_b.jpg


While this one is rusty :scratch2:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4485659680_e856dd7f6d_b.jpg

I am the first to hate resurrecting old threads but I searched and couldn't find a follow up...whatever happened with this project? The information seemed to just die out...

I'll get back to it eventually. The cabinet requires a lot of work and I wanted to refine my skills before tackling it.