and I've got two Zenith DTT-900s..but really don't know where to start. Other than soldering in the electrical receptacle I am not sure how one would go about this. If anyone knows, or has a schematic for an -off-the-shelf- converter model to mod in particular, do let me know. :yes:

I've thought about this myself. I think the first thing to do would be to find a switched low voltage source inside the box. Then, find a schematic for any '80's/'90's remote TV and look at it's relay driver circuit and build something from that. There shouldn't be that many parts involved. Usually a relay, the driver transistor, and a shunt diode across the relay coil. If there's not enough room on the rear of the box to mount an AC receptical, you could run and securely mount a pigtail from an extension cord and have it running out of the rear of the box. This would be a good idea in order to make our older TV's fully remote controllable.

Hey Bryan, thanks. So If I were to run a relay circuit from the micro's 'on' command circuit and put a simple shunt transistor across it I could be set...? I am going to fool with this soon. I'll post anything useful i come across. thanks for the reply btw. :thmbsp:

Shadow masks get warm but that's about it. Considering the 400 degree heat they have to endure during the evacuation process. They only time I know they have problems is if the tube is dropped and it warps causing purity problems.

I would imagine there's a voltage to be found somewhere inside the box which can be used to indicate power-on. The blue LED on the front would be a good start, although it cycles with remote control presses. Maybe the red LED would work better. I don't know how much room there is to mount a relay inside, though. I have thought of doing this with my CCII, mounting the relay inside the set, and maybe connecting the set and the DTV box with an RCA cable or something.

-Jim