I found an Orion 9E9 19 inch CRT monitor today. It works, but the picture is dim. No problem I thought... Just pop the back off and adjust the G2 control on the flyback...

There is no G2 control on the flyback. Both controls on the flyback adjust the focus and nothing else. I can't find a third knob anywhere on the flyback

Could the G2 control be hiding elsewhere? If it helps, this monitor was manufactured in December 2001.

I've seen a few TV's that had the G2 control on the CRT socket module. I've seen sets where the voltage divider network inside the flyback or the CRT socket would fail and cause the G2 control on the flyback to act like a focus control.

Many CRT monitors I've run across have two focus controls, one for horizontal focus and one for vertical focus, plus it says just "focus" on the flyback itself.

So I guess I should hunt for the G2 control on the CRT neck board...

I can't find a G2 control anywhere on the CRT neck board. There are some controls on top of the yoke though. I haven't touched them yet since I don't have a clue as to what they do...

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o121/mrx3750/Untitled-1.jpg

EDIT: Someone's been inside this monitor before me. I realized this as I was putting it back together. Were I to guess, they were trying to find a G2 control too.

So unless I get an answer, I'm just going to scrap this monitor for the chassis.

...

Most computer monitors made in the last 10-15 years are adjusted digitally using special software. Without this special software, and interface cable, you can't adjust anything.

Um, no... This particular monitor might be that way, but every other CRT monitor I've run across that was made in the last 10-15 years has always had a G2 control on the flyback. Sometimes there's one focus control, sometimes there's two focus controls, but there's always a G2 control.

This monitor's just weird.

I'm guessing the flyback could be bad. If one of the pots in the flyback is cracked, you may find that both pots affect the focus, and neither adjust the G2. Also, it could be a bad connection between the fly and the PC board. (ground lead not grounded?)

Also, the G2 might be controlled by a service menu item. I had a monitor like that once. No G2 pot. I never did figure out the menu, so I rewired it to bump the G2 up a little. That's probably not the best idea, though.

I might just scrap this monitor for its capacitors. I have a 21 inch monitor here that's just taking up space, and I have 4 17 inch monitors that are also taking up space, so I don't *really* need this one...

What brand of caps are you going to save? I am wondering, because I'm thinking a late model Orion wouldn't use anything worth salvaging...

Never encountered a monitor without a G2 control but I'm sure that some have electronic adjustments.

I'm going to save the chassis and cherry pick caps from it when I need them.

This monitor's a good 7 years old and has seen who knows how many hours of use, I don't recognize the brand of caps it has in it, but I'll do what I always do:

When I need a cap it has, I'll pull it, Google the cap's brand name to see if it's a known bad cap brand, test the cap, and if it passes, use it.

...

I had three Trinitrons that were like this before I switched to LCD. Brightness was adjusted by a pot on the neck board.

LCD's are great but damn, do I miss my 19" Trinitron :(. It got replaced with a 19" LCD when the HOT blew.

There's just something about a Trinitron, isn't there? I've crossed over to all LCDs for computer monitors, but I still miss the CRT.

I have fixed many a trinitron PC monitor just by using windas to change G2 to get the blacks black again.

Shame that most go to scrap when they start to show the retrace and a lousy greeny grey background that cant be adjusted out by the user controls, since once adjusted they are good as new again.

I have fixed many a trinitron PC monitor just by using windas to change G2 to get the blacks black again.

Shame that most go to scrap when they start to show the retrace and a lousy greeny grey background that cant be adjusted out by the user controls, since once adjusted they are good as new again.

I still have this monitor, I think I'll try windas on it if I can. Don't have anything to lose.

EDIT: apparently I can't try windas on it. Needs some kind of special cable. Oh well.

Interesting topic. I have a "Magnavox" (China; where else?) monitor that is "warm" in the raster (it goes red). Not really a problem, since I like the effect, but I wanted to do a good gray scale tune up. It has no controls that allow any adjustment of screen temperature other than those pre-programmed for operating controls. It is a ten year old, so I got my money's worth, anyway.
Kevin

I just was looking thru the posts I have made in the past, so it may be a little late, but if you want a cable to do windas - then get a cheap nokia cellphone USB data cable - its USB to RS232 and at 3.3v - yeah, its supposed to be 5 to do it but it works never the less. Hack up a CDROM audio cable for the monitor end and you are doing it for under $5 normally.

The monitor's long gone. It's been replaced by a 20 inch flatscreen Viewsonic that HAS a G2 adjustment. :)