I was finally delivered this set I won on ebay by my kind buddy in dearborn. It looks like someone sprayed it black a very long time ago. There is overspray on the tube chart. So I guess I will strip it and see what is underneath. It looks cool in black tho. Did any come in black?

I hooked up the beltron to the 8bp4 crt and after a test and a cleaning I get around 90 after a count to 6. And it holds for close to a ten count when the interrupt switch it pressed. When I cleaned it, the light went out when reduced to 6.3. So I am thinking my tube is probably pretty good even though according to the Beltron instructions if the light goes out when reduced to 6.3 to rejuvinate. I would rather not rejuvinate this tube and risk crt death.:thumbsdn: Do these readings jive with anybody's crts?

I have never seen one in black. I have the same set but I have never seen that model number. I think it should be a 9VT1. I would not try to rejuvinate that CRT until the set is working and a picture can be observed. It may not need it. When restored, they are good performers and the 8" round screen is surprisingly viewable across an average size livingroom. Does this set use the TS-18 chassis? That RCA phono jack is an obvious add-on. This set may have had some makeshift repairs or mods done to it at some point. This can make restoration more chalenging.

I think the model number is correct. Radiomuseum lists it as a wooden case and judging by the photos, that appears to be the case.

John

i always liked this particular set .

Would anyone be able to help me out with a schematic?

Would anyone be able to help me out with a schematic?

What is the chassis number? Is it TS-18?

This should be it. It covers the 7VT1, 7VT2 and 7VT5 series. Chassis TS-18.
It's from the original Motorola service manual. Let me know if you need other parts.

John Y.

Rats. Part of the scan got cut off. It's not much. The bottom heavy dark trace that goes to the power switch continues to the right and up. Where it connects should be fairly obvious.

John Y.

Thanks! This should do me for now. :)

Yes it is a Ts-18. The rca jack is hooked to nothing. the 1/4 phone jack is hooked to this transformer by the tuner. I have not looked yet but my guess is its the audio output. The sticker in the one photo says "DO IT RIGHT" Must have been a reminder for whoever installed the tuner. And it looks like someone at one point replaced one of the high voltage caps.

The crt gasket seems to be decent. Should I paint it to clean it up? Open to suggestions. You know...now that I think about it. Unless that gasket is on the crt good, and it and the crt are forward enough.... it just hangs on the neck mount and what little rests on the edge of the chassis. Yikes! It was loose up front too. I will have to scope this out further and perhaps slip in something under the crt to hold it up....just in case.

when I took the guts out. I first undone the crt neck mount then put a softener under the crt neck and slowly pulled the chassis out with one hand while holding the crt in the other. I should have had help just in case of a slip. But I managed and all went fine. right now the crt is face down in my laundry. :D

Does anyone have a scan of the tube layout? The one in mine is just about all covered with paint. I can just read the crt number and that's it.

If you just need the locations look at my thread

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=192272

It's not pretty but it's complete.

John Y.

I was actually thinking of printing one off to put in the case. If I photoshop hadn't changed so much since I was in school and was ambitious I would use what you had and fix it up real nice. But the last time I tried PS I was totally lost. I wonder if one of those old tube location chart books would have something. the one I have does not have my model. Nor are the graphics very good. Just a square box with the tube numbers in the correct locations and that's it.

Is the trim ring and Motorola copper clad? They both are looking bad. I will have to get them plated somehow or some alternative.

Guess you and I are in the same predicament. How about this though?

https://www.msu.edu/~yurkon/TS18_layout.jpg

It's from the factory service manual.

John

Not quite right is it. Maybe I can talk someone into Photoshoping what you have with what I have. I have your missing piece with over spray. The page will be helpful later though. How many pages is that manual?

This is using windows built in paint program. I think the resolution of the scan is not high enough. So If someone were good with photo shop it could be made to look pretty good. This was 15 min of fooling around. One trick is to copy a section next to the blacked out part. Then flip it then paste it on. It fades together because it's the mirror image to what is next to it. I didn't do that for all of what I did as you can see. Just fooling around.
:thmbsp:

Not quite right is it. Maybe I can talk someone into Photoshoping what you have with what I have. I have your missing piece with over spray. The page will be helpful later though. How many pages is that manual?

The manual is about 14 pages including a supplement and parts list. Then there is the schematic that I posted before. I probably need to rescan that.

It doesn't cover the TS-18A. The TS-18A just has a change in the filament wiring. Otherwise, it's the same. If you need that let me know. I can sketch it.

In your other post what did you mean by "not quite right?" Is there a difference from your set or just mean that it's not what you hope to attach to the set?

John Y.

I meant that it's not quite right to use as a reproduction to slap on the inside of the case to make it look authentic.

Mine is the Ts-18A it turns out. I probably wont need the sketch. I keep it in mind tho.

Here is a reproduction of the tube layout that I made in the drawing program FreeHand. I suppose you could print it out on yellowed paper or do other things to make it look old. The font is not quite right, but it is the closest one I could find (Helvetica Neue Light). Maybe somebody can use this as a basis for something that would look more original in the set.

Here is a link to an EPS copy so you can edit it in a program like Illustrator or other vector drawing programs.

http://homepage.mac.com/brameika/MotorolaLayout.eps

This is the FreeHand file if anybody else uses the program.
http://homepage.mac.com/brameika/MotorolaLayout.FH10

Hey! That's pretty good! :tresbon: Thanks.

John Y.

You bet! Thank you!:thmbsp:

Thanks, I needed to work on my computer drawing skills, so I thought I would try this. I just replaced the one in my original post with one a little better, the curves on the CRT look a little more accurate, but that's the hardest part to get right.

As a Christmas gift my good ol Mom is going to strip and refinish this and my chairside zenith. I just talked with her on the phone and she said it looks like it was originally painted brown. And the grain is not all that attractive. So it looks like I am going to paint it black. Any thoughts on what I should go with? I could use Imron. It's tough. Something more original would be lacquer. But try to get nitrocellulose like they had back then. It's expensive and allegedly bad for us:)

Here is an update. My mom stripped it down all the way. The brown turned out to be just another layer of paint. the Stain does not look too bad. Any recommendations as to what to do finish wise? Stain the front to match the top and sides? What decals are available ?

I will be interested to see how this goes as I plan to refinish the cabinet on my Motorola 9VT1 and get it going again. I don't think these sets had control marking decals. Mine has the original finish and there are no decals.

The metal bezel around the CRT safety glass appears to be plated brass by the way.

As a Christmas gift my good ol Mom is going to strip and refinish this and my chairside zenith. I just talked with her on the phone and she said it looks like it was originally painted brown. And the grain is not all that attractive. So it looks like I am going to paint it black. Any thoughts on what I should go with? I could use Imron. It's tough. Something more original would be lacquer. But try to get nitrocellulose like they had back then. It's expensive and allegedly bad for us:)

Why not use modern lacquer? It's widely available and looks a lot better than Imron (polyurethane).

My plan was to use a lacquer for the final coat. Leaning toward newer lacquer. Just getting opinions on staining/toning.

I have the brass plating stuff from AES I am going to try on the metal bezel.

I guess if it ever comes to light that I need decals I could slide them on and give it another coat of lacquer.

My plan was to use a lacquer for the final coat. Leaning toward newer lacquer. Just getting opinions on staining/toning.

Mohawk toners work really well. I'm not sure of the exact color for this model though.

I have the brass plating stuff from AES I am going to try on the metal bezel.

I guess if it ever comes to light that I need decals I could slide them on and give it another coat of lacquer.

Mohawk toners work really well, but I'm not sure what the right color is for this model.

Have you tried using the AES plating stuff on anything yet ?
I've used the Caswell kit and it came out looking more like copper than brass.

That strategy should work fine for decals.

This is the first time for trying the plating thing. Maybe they sent you copper instead of brass by accident. Or perhaps it just plain sucks. :confused:

This is the first time for trying the plating thing. Maybe they sent you copper instead of brass by accident. Or perhaps it just plain sucks. :confused:

Oh, it's brass alright. Based on all the negative comments I see online - I'd say it sucks!

Apparently, the best stuff to use for electroplating brass contains toxic compounds (cyanide) and can't be sold to the public. The solution they do sell seems to be sensitive to the voltage/current and temperature used to plate. I think the base metal makes a difference too. Some items should be Nickel plated first.

Anyway, good luck with your project!

...What decals are available ?

I'm not sure what decals are available or needed for this set. If you do need some and can't find any, you could try water-slide decal paper (http://www.modeldecal.com/wooddecals.html).

The idea is that you print your decals on their special paper using a laser or inkjet printer then clear coat with spray lacquer. After it's dry, you can use them like normal decals. The paper separates leaving your ink affixed to the lacquer.

I've got a blonde Motorola that definitely needs some decals, but the only ones I can find are gold (should be brown) and the channel numbers are wrong (should have #1). So I'll be trying it out in a few weeks.

I haven't tried it yet, but it seems promising. Has anyone out there tried it?