View Full Version : Help identifying 60's B&W Motorola


cpmuseum
04-27-2008, 08:33 PM
Hi! I need a little help identifying this TV! (In order to hopefully get the SAMS for it, as the first step in reforming and possibly recaping, and ultimately restoring it.) As you can see from the pics it's a Motorola branded set. Model number might be G15A13, or that might be an unrelated stamp and the original model number sticker on the back lost. The chassis model number is VKTS-588YB-01.

Following the advice in other threads on the subject of schematics, I attempted to cross reference this on the SAMS website (and Google) but the only possibly relevant hit I was able to come up with was QUASAR VKTS588YA06 (thru B01) – SAMS #719-3. However, I’m pretty sure this set predates Motorola’s use of the Quasar brand name, so I’m not entirely convinced that’s a correct match.

If anyone can tell me if this IS actually the correct SAMS number for this set, or can point me in the right direction for additional into (or has a set of schematics you'd like to forward - lol) it would be most appreciated. I know this set isn’t technically "early" B&W, in fact it’s probably one of the LAST models of B&W, as the tube diagram (shown in the pictures) actually shows the tube in the UHF tuner as being omitted, in the “transistorized” version - which this one appears to be.

I also know this TV isn’t worth much, it wasn't expensive when new, it was B&W when color had long since become dominant, it's not a combo anything, and it was probably made in massive numbers. But, it was my parents very first TV, and the one I grew up watching, in the late 1960’s... (We have pictures of me in front of it at age 3 or so.) AND, later on in the 70's, it was converted by me personally, into the computer monitor that I used with my first COSMAC ELF computer. (By bypassing the tuner and IF, and feeding directly into the video input on V3 - later reversed by re-splicing the tuner back in.) So it has some special nostalgia for me. And since I can wield both a soldering iron and an oscilloscope with ease, I think I’m up to the challenge. (Assuming, of course, parts can still be located – that will, of course, be the real difficulty.)

Anyway, thanks again for any input, and for all the advice from previous posters, that will be VERY helpful in starting this project. This is a fantastic forum, hopefully someday I’ll have something to contribute, other than questions!

bgadow
04-27-2008, 10:09 PM
Sams lumps all Motorola sets, from before the sellout to Matsushita, in with Quasar. Without digging the file out, the number sounds correct. (719 is a mid-60s number, as I recall)

I like this style set-I'm glad you're saving it! If the crt is good (likely) I don't think there would be anything else that would be tough to source a replacement for. I would expect only minor problems on a set this age. I spotted your post on the "Majestic" thread-you may very well get away with using the original caps for now. On 60s sets I give them a try first; my experience is that most are still okay.

Tony V
04-27-2008, 10:30 PM
The one number on the chassis "5M65" means 5=May M=Motorola 65=1965 so it was made in May by Motorola in 1965. This might help when skimming thru the schematics as you can confirm by date. I had one of these sets once upon a time and remember that it played well with the sharpness of a Zenith but no buzz like a Zenith. Its definately worth saving and think you will like what you end up with.
-Tony

cpmuseum
04-27-2008, 11:29 PM
Wow, thanks for the awesome info! Between the date code confirmation and the info on how Sams treats Motorola, I figured it was safe to go ahead and order the Sams. When I was in electronics school back in the 70's they still taught us how to discharge a CRT and troubleshoot both tube and solid state TV's (although solid state was mostly about how to identify through troubleshooting which board to swap.)

We had big racks of Sams binders in class then, for the many tube based older sets which we frequently serviced in class, for lower income community members - I remember those old books quite fondly.

Anyway, thanks again for the input and advice. I am a "professional" curator (or at least a lunitic collector :-) of vintage computer equipment, but both of the items I have recently started threads about in this forum, although not directly computer related, are both truly personal treasures - and I look forward to investing as much effort into them as any other item in my collection.

Regards
-Corey (curator, cpmuseum)

{currently on the bench: Teletype ASR-33}
(Thanks again Bryan, and no disrespect intended ;-)

cpmuseum
04-28-2008, 07:50 PM
Hi again! I just wanted to follow up once more by saying thanks again for the info. I got the Sams today, and everything visible from the top, at least, including the tube types & functions, and placement, as well as the adjustment points, all match exactly right on - so I’m pretty sure I got the right thing.

(With one small exception – The picture I posted earlier shows V12, horiz. output, as a 12JN6 – but the Sams, while agreeing that it’s horiz. output, wants to say it’s a 12GE5. Any feedback on that minor discrepancy would be appreciated – i.e. are those tubes functionally identical/similar?)

One other bit of trivia I am particularly interested in researching further: As shown in the previous picture, V17 (UHF oscillator) is shown in the upper left corner as optional, with the filament string tied to ground prior to the UHF tuner if that tuner is "transistor type". As shown in the pic attached to this post, in this particular example it apparently IS transistor type, as no tubes are visible on the UHF tuner.

The Sams for this chassis agrees that the UHF tube-type tuner contains a 2DZ4, as shown in the earlier pic. But, it contains no reference at all to the transistorized version of the UHF tuner. I would be very interested to hear if anyone has more info on that, or can point me to a schematic of the alternate UHF tuner actually present here.

I’m especially curious to learn more about what point "hybrids" came into use, e.g. sets like this that were still based on their original tube design, but had just a single transistorized component "grafted" in. This concept seems especially interesting to me.

Thanks again for your feedback and assistance!