I noticed that the picture on my crosley is too wide. If I adjust the width control I can get most of the picture on the screen, but if there is a really bright image the whole picture expands in all directions and gets fuzzy. When the scene changes the image shrinks back to normal and is very crisp like it should.I do not have a scope or marker generator so when I first got this set running it was calibrated only with a plastic screwdriver and me paying attention to it. So I guess I am kind of lucky to get a crisp picture to begin with. what adjustment is out of whack? To make a long story short every capacitor in this set has been replaced(even ceramic and mica) with the exception of the tuner, that I did not touch.If I adjust the width back to being too wide the picture is stable. What is it I do not know? Doug

low high voltage.

Check your damper, HO tube and HV rectifier tube.

X2; your symptom is a classic, called "blooming", where the excessive loading of the augmented current of brighter overall screen level draws down on the HT. If the supply can't cope with this then the voltage drops, and the accelerating force on the electrons. With less force to propel the electrons to the face the deflection coils have a greater influence, bending the beam further, causing the oversweep of both V and H. Focus will also be lost and, as the HV gets weaker, a dark spot develops at screen center, leaving only the perimeter visible. The width control loading that reduces horizontal deflection also apparently loads down on the HT in your set, causing the problem. When the setting is changed back to the original oversweep condition then HT is sufficient to cope with changes in overal brightness levels.

On the basis of your having recapped everything (except the tuner, and I would advise against going in there, as there are a mess of capacitors with critical temperature coefficient ratings, and they're probably OK) and assuming you have replaced the tubes mentioned in the previous posting, you may have to study the flyback itself more closely, sorry to say. :(

I will check the tubes mentioned earlier.The flyback is new from Moyers so I hope we can kind of rule it out.So if I understand what your stating, A resistor out of tolerance in the correct circuit could also cause lower voltage and help lead to this issue. That is if it is not a tube or the flyback itself. I did have a resistor close to the flyback ( in a circuit) that was too high on it's resistance but I did not have one to replace it with.Doug

I will check the tubes mentioned earlier.The flyback is new from Moyers so I hope we can kind of rule it out.thanks, Doug!

Hopefully the tubes are culprit. Bear in mind BTW that HOT and damper should always be replaced as a set--never one without the other, as a rule. A quick glace at the "getter spots" on these can be an indication, as any fading or pronounced rainbow edge to these spots indicates the possibility that the tubes have played out.

As for the new flyback you put in hopefully it is OK, but bear in mind someone on this forum a few threads back after agonizing troubleshooting finally solved a piss-weak HV problem by removing the replacement flyback installed, and putting the old coil back.

Ok, I am not familar with the term hot(tube). I know which one is the damper though. Also, what are the getter spots?I have been working with tubes and old radios for a few years now but I have not heard of getter spots before

Ok, I am not familar with the term hot(tube). I know which one is the damper though. Also, what are the getter spots?I have been working with tubes and old radios for a few years now but I have not heard of getter spots before
HOT--Horizontal Output Tube.
Getter spots are those silvery lustrous spots found on most tubes that look as if silver paint were sprayed inside the glass. They can be a handy "telltale" in initial assessment of tube condition. If you look at a fresh tube these spots--usually visible on the top or perhaps two diametrically opposite each other on the sides, or sometimes in all 3 places--will show as a nice mirror finish, and fade without discoloration at the edges to clear glass. As tubes age in service these spots will either fade or whiten slightly at the edge, or develop a rainbow pattern at the edge. When the tubes are just about clapped out these spots can deteriorate into dull brown smudges. With gassy tubes they may turn ashen, and snow-white getter spots mean the tube has lost its vacuum entirely.

Another tube to replace(if the set has one-not a solid state rectifier) is the high voltage rectifier tube. These cannot be tested well on a tube tester, checking by substitution is much more accurate.

Another tube to replace(if the set has one-not a solid state rectifier) is the high voltage rectifier tube. These cannot be tested well on a tube tester, checking by substitution is much more accurate.

This is very true! :thmbsp: And also applies to output tubes--sweep or audio, and also many other applications. I use a rather elaborate tube checker here if the mood strikes me. This condition has happened very seldom to me over the past 30 years or so... I have a beauty of a transcon tester, and use it in special circumstances, but not to qualify a tube in typical receiver applications, no. :no:

Well, I checked the tubes mentioned earlier, they are good. I did try replacements. When I put any other hot(6cd6) tube in I get a bright white stripe in the middle of the screen that goes from the top to the bottom. It stays there. Ok, does this mean anything to someone besides the fact it is confusing me?

The bright line up the middle is, I think, a horizontal drive issue. One set I have had this problem which was correctable by adjusting the horiz.drive control. I have another set with this problem and I have not yet been able to remedy it.