Though I would update the news on the General Electric 10T4 , I ended up doing well on the insurance claim . atfer I got that it figured out that the TV only cost me $4.99 plus shipping . :banana:
So I have now staightened the chassis where it was damaged . I still have some more smaller dents and ripples in the metal to get out .
It appears that it dosen't have the original picture tube in it . The one that is in there is a Dale , made in Clifton NJ . I think it is a 10BP4 , it has a ion trap on it with 2 rings on it .originally it had a 10FP4.
The chassis needs a good cleaning and there was 2 bad tubes in it , a 12AT7 with a open filiment , and a 6AG5 with high grid leakage . when I powered the set up the filiments were cutting out once in a while . that tube must have been on it's way out .
I am planning on redoing the veneer . the original was sanded a while back with a disk sander and it wore through it and the framing wood can be seen .
Im just about finished writing all the capacitor numbers down , and send for those .

Good luck with your project.

Here's mine:

http://rodsievers.googlepages.com/generalelectric10t4television

Can anyone tell me what the controls on the back of the chassis ?
vert freq vert line ect...
my back is missing .

I've got a 10T1 that I just fixed up after many months of slow troubleshooting and repair.

Your controls out back starting from the left horizontal frequency- Horizontal drive, Thermal cutout switch - focus range adjustment(use in conjunction with the front focus control) Vertical height, and vertical linerarity.

My set uses the bakelite locomotive cabinet, which arrived shattered from UPS. I didn't bother with a claim, as they would blame it on the seller packing bad. I was quoted 160 for a restorationist to repair the cabinit.

I found bad resistors in the set in the sync and vertical sections. Also there was a cap that connects to the sync tube that looks like a huge white resistor with a color code. I neglected to replace it because I thought it was a resistor. Replaced it and my contrast control began to work.

These sets I don't think were top of the line performers. The contrast control mearly adjusts the gain of the IF tubes. Also the tuner is a turret type that really needed to be cleaned.

Oh, and I had to replace the video detector diode, that was hidden in a IF transformer can on top of the chassis. I used a common switching diode from radio shack. Before replaceing that I had no audio or video.

Post your progess, I am interested to see how your restoration goes compared to mine.
Good luck,
Matt Davala

I haven't had much of a chance to work on it these days , I still have to dig in there and list all the electrolytics , and get a order together for the caps .
My 1954 Crosley also has a detector diode in it , hiding under a IF transformer , 1N34 or equivalant .
I still have to get a schematic for it .
They have a neat circuit layout , with the 2 boards , and all the parts are fitted to those .
they are quite a neat little set I like the brass front .
They were not a really expensive set I would imagine , considering they were series wired tube filaments
I got the chassis sraightened out , just a few little spots left to fix .

What it the thermal cutout switch for ?

Well from what I can tell about the thermal cutout is that its first job limits the initial current rush. It takes the set longer to turn on, but protects the tubes filiments from that initial "flash" that most series strung sets have.

The second job is to act like a circuit breaker in the event of a short in the B+ it will open the thermal cutout.

I was just reading your first post and saw that one of the 12AT7's had an open heater. Same with my set. I had a spare Groove Tube 12AT7 that works just fine. The set had all origional GE 6AG5's that tested weak to marginal. If you read the service notes for the set, after 1950 replace ALL 6AG5's with the "new" 6BC5. AES had NOS 6BC5's for 1.50. I ordered 5 from them and one tested weak. I called and they were super nice and sent me out another 6BC5 no questions asked.

Best Regards,
Matt Davala

Actually, the Thermal switch is only in case of shorts. The two special resistors in the hv cage are for surge. Of filaments, that is..
Yes, these sets take forever to warm up... About two minuites, and, I'm not real impressed with the picture quality, either....
Actually, they didn't use a turret tuner. They used their own style of wafer tuner....
Bill Cahill

Perhaps I'm lucky. I have had better experience with the GE 10". It should produce a good, sharp picture.
When the 35 ohm (hot) globars go bad, they will not only delay warm up, but also prevent full voltage from getting to all the filaments. That will contribute to a poor picture and other symptoms. When the TV is operating properly, warm up is the same as any other set.
The 10FP4 is an aluminized, dark phosphor screen. It will produce a better picture than the 10BP4. GE was an early user of aluminized picture tubes.

Does anyone have a schematic they could scan for me ?
I still dont have one , so Im in the dark . :tears:

I'll send you everything I got in a day or two.

Did you get the info I sent?

Rod