I've got a friend who is the greatest guy ever, but he's broke and putting himself through college, and the only TV he has is broken. Yesterday I saw a newer Sony on the curb, and grabbed it.

Its a KV-24FV300 with a BA3 chassis. When you turn it on, you hear the degauss and then the HV starting, but then it shuts off and the light starts blinking, and settles into a 2 blink pattern. I searched all over the net, and found the service manual, and that the code means B+ over current. I looked around inside but I don't see anything burnt or out of place.

I can replace parts, but I have no idea where to start troubleshooting it. I'd really like to make this work, my friend would be really happy :banana: I have the service manual if anyone wants to look at it, but it's too big to attach so I'll email it if anyone wants to look at it.

Thanks Ted

I'll bet the flyback is bad. A friend had a '99 Sony that went from working perfect one night to doing what you said the next morning. A new flyback solved the problem. How old is yours? I think even the newer WEGA's tend to blow flybacks.

Manufactured in Feb. of 2003. Where would I be able to find find parts for this set? I was trying to look and see what prices would be like but I can't find anywhere that will sell to the public.

-Ted

Manufactured in Feb. of 2003. Where would I be able to find find parts for this set? I was trying to look and see what prices would be like but I can't find anywhere that will sell to the public.

-Ted

You might try www.tritronicsinc.com or www.electronixonline.com . You'll need the part number off the flyback. I think Tritronics is set up so where you can enter a model number in and view the entire parts list for the set.

I looked at the set, and there are multiple different numbers on the flyback. I looked up the ones I could see without being a contortionist, and didn't get any results, so I looked up the model number on Tritronics website.

They show this (http://www.tritronicsinc.com/storefrontB2CWEB/itemdetail.do?action=prepare_detail&itm_id=31720&itm_index=0) as the correct part, as well as two other non-sony replacements made by ASTI and DIEMEN. Do you think that any of the other generic replacements will work ok, or should I stick with Sony? I'm leery to spend $82 on hopefully fixing the set w/o testing to prove that its bad, unless this is really that common...?

Thanks radiotvnut, your help is great, and thanks in advance to anyone else who chimes in to help me out.

-Ted

I've heard that the HR Diemen generics are decent. I replaced the flyback in the Sony I mentioned above with a cheap generic and it's still going as far as I know. But, some generics don't hold up. I used one of those ASTI brands in an RCA and the part blew up after two hours of use. I think I'd go with the HR Diemen brand and take my chances. While you've got it apart, check the horizontal output transistor with a multimeter and make sure it's not shorted. It's a big black transistor mounted on a heatsink close to the flyback.

Ok, I'd much rather go for the HR Diemen since its only $38 vs $82 for the Sony part. Their website says its the "Best transformer in the world"... not that I will believe that until I see it for myself. I'm gonna be busy for a bit so I probably wont get to ordering until next week, and I'd like to check the HOT before I do as well.

Is there a specific pattern of tests for the HOT or do I just try every way I can?

Thanks Ted

I've had good luck with HR, but I did fix a set that had a bad new HR flyback installed.

i do a lot of tv repair and we have been using only HR Diemen flybacks and i have not had a bad one yet. steve

Maybe give "Global Electronics" a call and see if they have the entire PC board for this thing. Sometimes they have a surplus of boards that they blow out really cheap, and this makes for a quick easy repair.

1-800-668-8776 (www.globalsemi.com)

B+ overcurrent can be caused by any number of things . I believe your Sony may use a HV multiplier and a focus rect. block instead of a flyback. The first thing you have to verify that the problem is not the B+ power supply itself. Next verify you have not got a shorted horizontal output transistor.Don't go wasting time throwing parts at the set in a shotgun fashion.Do some old fashion troubleshooting..:D
Sonys were notorious for cracks in the PC boards especially around the heavier components . Look closely for cracks in the horizontal section around the HOT heatsink.

I agree, shotgun parts replacement is never the best idea, but I have read in more than one place about flyback failures on this same model set. Still, you're right and I will poke around a bit and check the HOT and for cracks in the board. Hopefully I can get to that real soon, but all this other garbage called "working for money" gets in the way.

-Ted

So i finally got to working on the set again... I was trying to test the HOT but the in-circuit values make no sense and I can't unsolder it. I have a good Weller temp controlled iron and everything. I can get the "top layer" of solder but no matter how I heat it or hold the solder sucker it just wont go. Any hints?

-Ted

Get some desoldering braid. Radio Shack or any electronic supply store should have it. It will still be a slight pain; but, it will do better than the solder sucker. Radio Shack also sells a desoldering iron that sometimes does pretty good.

Get some desoldering braid. Radio Shack or any electronic supply store should have it. It will still be a slight pain; but, it will do better than the solder sucker. Radio Shack also sells a desoldering iron that sometimes does pretty good.

I agree, I've had the best luck with the braid.
Mark

So i finally got to working on the set again... I was trying to test the HOT but the in-circuit values make no sense and I can't unsolder it. I have a good Weller temp controlled iron and everything. I can get the "top layer" of solder but no matter how I heat it or hold the solder sucker it just wont go. Any hints?

-Ted

When a HOT fails it usually measures as a dead short from the C to E. You can test for that in circuit. B to E will always show a short in circuit because of the horizontal drive transformer.

It tests good according to what you have said. There is short from B-E but C-E is fine. Should the flyback be my next stop?

I'll have to dig up some braid, I know its around here somewhere....

-Ted

I always used a flyback tester to check the flybacks when I suspected one. You could also measure the B+ voltage coming out of the power supply into the flyback. It should be in the 130 volt range. If it's much lower, that could indicate a shorted flyback.

I don't have any test equipment besides a good fluke DMM, so the next check will be the B+ into the flyback.

-Ted

I've been so crazy busy.....

I finally checked some more and decided to order the flyback. I went with the HR one. Hopefully it will get here soon...

-Ted

:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::b anana::banana::banana:


It works..... Flyback came today, (only took two days) I dropped everything, ran down to the basement and swapped it in.

Still needs some final tweaking but its working... I'm so happy... and I couldn't have done it without everyone's help.

Apart

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/8356/image066qy3.jpg

Together

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/6623/image068bz0.jpg

Screenshot

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/9742/image070ye9.jpg

-Ted

Looks great! What adjustments does it need?

Anyway looks like a nice set. How's the audio on it?

BTW were you disappointed by "Moment Of Truth"? I sure was. It looked like it was going to be a great show but it's overly dramatic and fake, and half the questions aren't even that "shocking".

Yea it is a pretty decent set, but the build quality is not what it used to be. It's got decent audio and a really nice picture. The audio has more bass than you would expect from a TV, but its a bit tinny/thin sounding sometimes. Those big speaker enclosures are really resonant if you tap on them....

It looks good in the pic (which was after I had tweaked it a bit) but I played with the focus and screen controls a bit more, and the geometry was off a bit on the top. (basically a lot of nit-picking on my part, I wanted it perfect) And hey, I had the service manual, which lists 5 or so pages of possible adjustments, so why not.

"Moment Of Truth" is just yet another lame, fake show IMO. I try to stay away from all the garbage network TV is spewing out these days. They just keep trying to get you to watch on shock value and then when that doesn't work, they try to bring back old shows. I stick with the Discovery channel and the like. Only thing I watch on network TV is America's Funniest Home Videos, which is always a riot.

-Ted