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  #31  
Old 03-28-2017, 08:14 PM
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Robert Grant Robert Grant is offline
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You SO make me want to take on my 5317U again, but I have several things ahead of it.
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  #32  
Old 03-29-2017, 09:03 AM
consoleguy67 consoleguy67 is offline
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The dial bulb might be easier to access from the front of the set, by removing the knob.
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  #33  
Old 03-29-2017, 11:09 AM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
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I tried that but didn't see any obvious way to get the bulb
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  #34  
Old 03-29-2017, 01:05 PM
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The socket might be on a slide on-off mounting.
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  #35  
Old 03-29-2017, 01:11 PM
Tom9589 Tom9589 is offline
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You might want to simply pull the VHF tuner. Zeniths (at least the B&W ones) had the VHF tuner mounted with two screws in the cabinet back. I see what looks like rubber grommets on the side of the VHF tuner mounting bracket interfacing with pins on the front face plate.
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  #36  
Old 03-30-2017, 11:06 AM
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I tried getting at it from the front and the knob came apart

I think the smoked plastic goes towards then then white paper then the clear plastic then the black ring




After a bit of poking around, I realized the bulb holder slid off pretty easily. The holder clip is the ground and the wire clips onto the tuner.





It appears to be a #240 bulb - 6.3V @ 0.36A.
Specs: http://www.taillightking.com/images/...0240%20USA.pdf


All I had handy was some #1847 (long life #47) and an LED equivalent. They only draw 0.15A and I expect are not as bright.


It works but is really dim.
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  #37  
Old 03-30-2017, 11:12 AM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
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I noticed the width slowly expands over several minutes when the set is first turned on. No doubt it's the old caps reforming.




Zentih sure went cheap on the control door.


All the controls appear to be working correctly. Going to put together an order, get some new caps and pull the chassis soon.
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  #38  
Old 03-30-2017, 11:27 AM
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Findm-Keepm Findm-Keepm is offline
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Be careful with that knob - that pot metal "cage" liked to break. I broke the one on our neighbors' Mother-in-Laws set....

https://flic.kr/p/Td3QqK


Cheers,
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  #39  
Old 03-30-2017, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
I tried getting at it from the front and the knob came apart

I think the smoked plastic goes towards then then white paper then the clear plastic then the black ring




After a bit of poking around, I realized the bulb holder slid off pretty easily. The holder clip is the ground and the wire clips onto the tuner.





It appears to be a #240 bulb - 6.3V @ 0.36A.
Specs: http://www.taillightking.com/images/...0240%20USA.pdf


All I had handy was some #1847 (long life #47) and an LED equivalent. They only draw 0.15A and I expect are not as bright.


It works but is really dim.
When I restored my 25MC33 Zenith roundie ten years ago now, I too had the tuning knob come apart. The two sections are just lightly crimped together. I had to use some JB Weld to make a more permanent fix. The channel display looks about as bright as mine does with the correct lamp. These are not very bright. I love the metal cabinet. I wish mine were in a metal cabinet. They are more compact and less prone to nicks and scratches. They are great sets and the color is unbeatable when everything is working right.
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  #40  
Old 03-30-2017, 09:48 PM
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Thanks for the info

I hooked the set up to a converter box and watched a little MeTV tonight. Definitely an improvment over the weak OTA reception! There vertical height is a little lacking and horizontal hold is at one extreme. Also some streaking when text appears. It ill be interesting to see how things change after a recap and weak tubes are replaced.



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Last edited by bandersen; 03-30-2017 at 10:52 PM.
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  #41  
Old 03-31-2017, 08:32 AM
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Tip on the horizontal hold: the control is a coil, not a pot....So the stop is the knob's pointer hitting the metal tab in the pencil box. To get more range pull the knob out past the point where the pointer hits the stop then turn it some more. The knob should have a hex shaft so you could set it up so the pointer is at mid mech range at the center of the electrical sync range. I can't remember changing caps having much effect on H hold range in Zeniths.
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  #42  
Old 03-31-2017, 08:55 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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biggest issue with Zeniths was the coil forms, the plastic is an issue, other than that they pretty much just work, even with the old caps. Sometimes you may find a cold solder joint on a tube socket, IIRC the video out on later models had this issue, maybe not a prob on the roundies, but it would manifest as a overly bright pic esp near the bottom, solved with a smack of the cabinet. A good socket cleaning of all the tubes will get you 90% of the reliability back, and that's assuming it was stored where corrosion could take hold. Zeniths were built to last, the other plus is the HV was very robust with no flyback issues.
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  #43  
Old 03-31-2017, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
biggest issue with Zeniths was the coil forms, the plastic is an issue, other than that they pretty much just work, even with the old caps. Sometimes you may find a cold solder joint on a tube socket, IIRC the video out on later models had this issue, maybe not a prob on the roundies, but it would manifest as a overly bright pic esp near the bottom, solved with a smack of the cabinet. A good socket cleaning of all the tubes will get you 90% of the reliability back, and that's assuming it was stored where corrosion could take hold. Zeniths were built to last, the other plus is the HV was very robust with no flyback issues.
Best of all is no printed wiring, no production shortcuts. You can run a Zenith all day without cooking it to death.
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  #44  
Old 03-31-2017, 12:27 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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Yea the RCA PCB's on high hour sets are frequently smoked.
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  #45  
Old 04-02-2017, 11:16 AM
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DavGoodlin DavGoodlin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
Yea the RCA PCB's on high hour sets are frequently smoked.
Unfortunately that was also true of clone sets by Philco sylvania magnavox GE Emerson etc. no wonder zenith got such a jump on everyone else🙂
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