1974 Magnavox color tv/srereo combo.

[pac.attack76]

Thinking about having this delivered for a total of $25. Should I get it and is it worth restoring? Seller says it's been stored in garage for decades. Not sure if anything is working.

[Jon A.]

I'd jump on a deal like that. If nothing else the parts are worth it. Since it's been in storage for so long it probably doesn't have a six-figure number of hours on it.

[zeno]

Stereo probably works but not the TT.
Set looks like the early SS chassis.
If so it probably dont need much. Chassis was modular
with an upright mother board. Design is strait forward,
easy to understand & fix much like most early SS sets.
Gave a nice pix, I liked working on them.
One thing on all Maggies of this era is to resolder all the
mother board & the modules where the plugs are.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[TUD1]

I gutted a console version of this a few months ago. Cabinet was total garbage, don't worry. I saved the CRT and defelection components.

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by TUD1

I gutted a console version of this a few months ago. Cabinet was total garbage, don't worry. I saved the CRT and defelection components.

Is that a T995 chassis? I have been wondering if 1974 was a bit early for that one.

[Bill R]

I think 1974 was the first year of the T995. I know it was the first year of the Star System sets that used the T995 chassis. With a good CRT it will make a great picture. I saw it and thought about getting it, but don't have time or a place to put it right now. The stereo and turntable probably work, TV might work, but will likely need to have the motherboard resoldered.

[Jon A.]

Maybe it was its T991 cousin that came out a little later. I don't know of any 19V inline sets from before 1975.

I guess this Maggy has either a 25VBEP22 or a 25VCXP22.

[radiotvnut]

The T995 was probably the best solid state chassis that Magnavox ever made.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by TUD1

I gutted a console version of this a few months ago. Cabinet was total garbage, don't worry. I saved the CRT and defelection components.

I'd keep the power tranny, convergence adjustment board (the first set you find with a bum convergence pot will make you gad you kept a board full of spares), as much of the chassis as feasible, and the mask (you could make your own test jig with it).

[pac.attack76]

Decided to pass on it. Too many projects right now.

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I'd keep the power tranny, convergence adjustment board (the first set you find with a bum convergence pot will make you gad you kept a board full of spares), as much of the chassis as feasible, and the mask (you could make your own test jig with it).

Forgot to say before, I didn't know convergence pots could just up and quit because they seem pretty sturdy and aren't moved much. I have a few from a set I couldn't save, but I kept them mostly for their knobs. I don't see a way to separate the knobs, but I had one break off in another set. It was discolored, probably decayed by heat. If any more had broken I probably would have replaced the pots. A small screwdriver was sufficient in this case.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Jon A.

Forgot to say before, I didn't know convergence pots could just up and quit because they seem pretty sturdy and aren't moved much. I have a few from a set I couldn't save, but I kept them mostly for their knobs. I don't see a way to separate the knobs, but I had one break off in another set. It was discolored, probably decayed by heat. If any more had broken I probably would have replaced the pots. A small screwdriver was sufficient in this case.

Convergence pots are wire wound typically, and if they got adjusted regularly (annual service touch up for 15 straight years?) dead spots, and the wire unwrapping it's self are not uncommon. I've got 3-5 sets I know have had those issues. One or two saw bad storage conditions the rest just failed, and control cleaner don't help....Especially on unwrapped pots where while turning you can hear the bad spot as tiny strings being plucked...

The dead spots typically like to be right at optimal setting too.

[Jon A.]

Probably more common with tube sets, which I assume were often touched up after a tube swap. I reckon the pots in SS deltas saw less action in their time. I heard of a wirewound focus pot in an early B&W going open, getting repaired and a resistor added to get it in range.