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  #1  
Old 06-16-2015, 12:04 PM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
Restoring an admiral c322
 
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My Brand New CTC-7!

Hello all!

I just recently acquired my first console set! It is a 1958 RCA CTC-7 in the "Pensbury" cabinet. I acquired this set for free from Tvcollector here at VK. The drive took two and a half hours but it was well worth it for such a nice set for the price of free. The 21CYP22 tests great on all guns but the base is in rough shape and I am honestly too afraid to try and put a new base on. The base still functions but it is pretty loose... The cabinet is in VERY rough shape... Will probably have to strip it and stain it and refinish it. As for the electronics most of the caps are still kind of ok and some minor repairs have been done but the set does power up and I get a raster but the horizontal and vertical are all wrong so I will recap those boards first. I did accidentally break the horiz hold knob while trying to remove the chassis so I will have to fabricate a new plastic shaft for the knob to fit on. Only two tubes tested bad in the set and I will replace them... The flyback looks to be in great condition. I think I will have a lot of fun restoring this set and it will be a learning experience for me. I will take my time with this and do it step by step. I will post updates when needed. Here is the link for the images I have taken of the set http://imgur.com/a/oTaRJ
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring)
RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)

Last edited by SwizzyMan; 06-16-2015 at 01:15 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-16-2015, 12:37 PM
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Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Here is the link for the images
Link says:

"SwizzyMan's images are not publicly available."

Phil Nelson
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  #3  
Old 06-16-2015, 01:15 PM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
Restoring an admiral c322
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Nelson View Post
Link says:

"SwizzyMan's images are not publicly available."

Phil Nelson
Fixed it thanks for letting me know
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring)
RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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  #4  
Old 06-16-2015, 01:48 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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yikes! that CRT tube socket. Hope you don't have to remove the yoke anytime soon.
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  #5  
Old 06-16-2015, 01:54 PM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
Restoring an admiral c322
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
yikes! that CRT tube socket. Hope you don't have to remove the yoke anytime soon.
yup... I am terrified to even put my tester socket on it much less the actual socket from the TV.
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RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:38 PM
MRX37 MRX37 is offline
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I wonder if epoxy could hold that socket together better then the hobby glue I'm seeing?
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  #7  
Old 06-16-2015, 05:35 PM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
Restoring an admiral c322
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX37 View Post
I wonder if epoxy could hold that socket together better then the hobby glue I'm seeing?
I do have some and might try doing that
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring)
RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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  #8  
Old 06-16-2015, 08:13 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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my recommendation is do nothing to the crt socket, except maybe some electrical tape to stabilize if for now. Get the set working, worry about the CRT later.
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  #9  
Old 06-16-2015, 10:14 PM
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Jeffhs Jeffhs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
my recommendation is do nothing to the crt socket, except maybe some electrical tape to stabilize if for now. Get the set working, worry about the CRT later.
My sentiments exactly. I don't know what type CRT is in your set, but if it's a rare one, I'd tape the socket so it won't move, as DaveWM suggested, and forget it for the time being, as long as you are restoring the TV. I had a bad experience with a CRT in a Philco "Microgrid 390" TV I rescued from a curb years ago. The socket came completely off the neck of the CRT, so I just soldered the leads from the TV chassis to the wires protruding from the neck. It worked for a short time, but eventually one of the wires broke off, shorted to another lead, there was a good sized spark, and ...

I wound up junking the set soon after that, as I was in no position at the time to look around for a used tube. Too bad, since the Microgrid series was one of Philco's best b&w TVs of the 1950s, with a cascode tuner and an excellent sound system. I was surprised the set didn't have a phonograph pickup input on the rear of the chassis--that's how good the sound was. I had a Zenith K-2739 1963 b&w 23" TV with a good audio system as well, but that set did not have a phono input either; why, I'll never know, since the set had a 6BN6 gated-beam audio stage, 6BQ5 output and a 6x9 oval speaker in the base of the cabinet, below the CRT. That TV easily had the best mono sound system of any set I owned before or since then, although today it is possible to connect a flat-panel TV to a stereo system and have better sound than even the best mono TV audio systems produced 50-60 years ago.
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  #10  
Old 06-16-2015, 10:36 PM
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rca2000 rca2000 is offline
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if it is the original tube...it should be a 21CYP22 and those are NOT real common !! I agree...wrap several layers of tape around it and get it secured. Get the set working good and THEN...maybe worry about the base. I had a CTC-5 with a tube with a similar base ...and it ALSO had like--new readings on ALL tests--life, emissions, cutoff AND gun balance. I was just VERY careful with it....it was fine..

UNLIKE..the last 21AXP22 set I came across. that base was PERFECT...but the tube was STILL full of AIR... shame--since it HAD shown good supposdely--the last time the set ran...about 40 years ago or so !! I guess all of that "idle time in a basement"....took its toll on the seals.

I ALSO have a number of thsoe Zenith sets...with 6BQ5 audio amp and a couple of them have a 10" speaker and an electrostatic tweeter I believe !! I expect the size of the OPT and B+ on the tube means it could give about 5 watts of power or so...not sure it is really enough to push that big speaker to its full potential though. ONE of them is a 23" set with a weak tube and it WILL produce a raster ...b ut there are bad caps and something is smoking near the cap by the 6BQ5. The other one is a 24" set with a decent tube accd. to my 70. It preduces a pretty good raster....with some foldover--and a big cap by the tranny is geting warm...so I know it TOO needs caps. Both are 1958 sets I beleive..one is an SC400.

I have a couple of others wiht the 6X9 speaker and 6BQ5 amp. I KNOW they have very good sound !!
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Old 06-16-2015, 10:41 PM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
Restoring an admiral c322
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffhs View Post
My sentiments exactly. I don't know what type CRT is in your set, but if it's a rare one, I'd tape the socket so it won't move, as DaveWM suggested, and forget it for the time being, as long as you are restoring the TV. I had a bad experience with a CRT in a Philco "Microgrid 390" TV I rescued from a curb years ago. The socket came completely off the neck of the CRT, so I just soldered the leads from the TV chassis to the wires protruding from the neck. It worked for a short time, but eventually one of the wires broke off, shorted to another lead, there was a good sized spark, and ...

I wound up junking the set soon after that, as I was in no position at the time to look around for a used tube. Too bad, since the Microgrid series was one of Philco's best b&w TVs of the 1950s, with a cascode tuner and an excellent sound system. I was surprised the set didn't have a phonograph pickup input on the rear of the chassis--that's how good the sound was. I had a Zenith K-2739 1963 b&w 23" TV with a good audio system as well, but that set did not have a phono input either; why, I'll never know, since the set had a 6BN6 gated-beam audio stage, 6BQ5 output and a 6x9 oval speaker in the base of the cabinet, below the CRT. That TV easily had the best mono sound system of any set I owned before or since then, although today it is possible to connect a flat-panel TV to a stereo system and have better sound than even the best mono TV audio systems produced 50-60 years ago.
The CRT is a 21CYP22 not too common these days.
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring)
RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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  #12  
Old 06-16-2015, 11:04 PM
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tvcollector tvcollector is offline
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This is the same set that's in this thread.. I only had it since November of last year... I must have plugged the CRT tester into the CRT about a 100 times.. I used two jewelry screw drivers to pry off each time, seeing how some of the CRT cap is missing..

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=263008
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  #13  
Old 06-17-2015, 08:04 AM
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Kamakiri Kamakiri is offline
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Go to Harbor Freight and pick up their cheap 2 part epoxy in squeeze tubes. Works wonders on CRT sockets. I just pieced back together one on a 21YP4 and it holds like iron.
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  #14  
Old 06-17-2015, 08:47 AM
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hi_volt hi_volt is offline
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Nice score! My CTC7 is one of my favorite sets. Looking forward to seeing your restoration.
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  #15  
Old 06-17-2015, 11:29 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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the general conscience is there is no conscience.

Some like epoxy, some like silicone (wire safe), some like super glue (I used the flex zap in the past), some like white glue... it goes on and on and on.

Hence my recommendation to simply wrap some electrical tape around it to stablize, get the set working, then you can spend time researching what you think is the best approach. The issue I see you have is the sloppy work already done may make removal a iffy thing. And you don't want to follow up that sloppy work with more perm glue that will just make it harder to do right at some point in the future.

often times LESS is MORE in tv work. this is why untouched sets are prized over "restorations" unless the restoration is done by someone that really is good at it.
Clearly this was not the case with your CRT socket. This is why I tend to advise against excessive cleaning as well. there are delicate parts that are aged and easy to destroy with a blast of compressed air (like the peaking coils in GE sets), or parts get cracked from over zealous cleaning attempts. Rarely does cleaning fix a non working set or make a set work better. there are exceptions but rare, it would need to be a conductive goo in the exact wrong place to cause an issue.

Clean enough to read the parts and make a decent visual inspection IF there is a problem, you are not going to be eating off the tv chassis. If you want a museum quality restoration that is different. There are guys around that do fantastic work and make sets look like new, but for a 1st time color tv chassis I would recommend handling it as little as possible.

As for the CRT at some point you may have to address it (like if you had to replace the yoke), right now its a non issue to get it working, just don't do more damage to it than already done.

Last edited by DaveWM; 06-17-2015 at 11:37 AM.
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