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  #16  
Old 08-30-2014, 03:38 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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I tried to plate drive mine with a B&K 1076 before I fixed the hoirzontal drive circuitry, and it would not display a raster. Meaning either my TV/equipment is weird, or the design of the fly is not compatible with the B&K.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rodmonster View Post
So are you saying to just put the tube back in and solder the socket in place and it may still work?
Yes and no. The traces could be fine, but it should be verified with resistance/continuity tests. And if the traces are electrically fine then there is a different cause of failure that will require trouble shooting. Red plating of the HO tube could be caused by loss of drive signal to the output tube, miss-biasing of the output tube, bad flyback, or shorted tripler to name the most likely....And all of those issues could be caused by something other than the traces under the HO tube socket, though the first two may or may not be be caused by the state of the traces under the HO tube.

I don't want to sound nasty, but fellow hobbyists who don't or rarely work on PCB based sets tend to not know how to properly deal with them, and often b!tch essentially about having to change their way of working and having to think about how to do something new (like they never had to think when learning to work on chassis based sets or troubleshooting ). There are also techs who have only worked on modular board based sets (which yours is not) such as Zenith CCII sets, and think they can avoid having to trouble shoot/solder traces on PCBs by simply being a 'board swapper tech'...And while that is good and fine (though a lazy way out) on modular sets for which there are still modules available it is not practical on these sets.
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  #17  
Old 08-30-2014, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
I don't want to sound nasty, but fellow hobbyists who don't or rarely work on PCB based sets tend to not know how to properly deal with them, and often b!tch essentially about having to change their way of working and having to think about how to do something new (like they never had to think when learning to work on chassis based sets or troubleshooting ).
That's most of them really. If I could be there I'd be bending over backwards trying to get this set working reliably again because that's my era of interest.
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  #18  
Old 08-30-2014, 05:08 PM
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Are you aware of the Vintage Sylvania site?

http://www.vintagesylvania.net/?page=downloads

They probably have your cure- the service notebooks are full of service hints for your set. Symptom/Cure stuff.

Take a look around - someone went all out with that site!

Cheers,
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  #19  
Old 08-30-2014, 05:18 PM
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Shweet! I'm checking it out as well.

Oh, looks like it only covers audio equipment.

Last edited by Jon A.; 08-30-2014 at 05:27 PM.
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  #20  
Old 08-30-2014, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon A. View Post

Oh, looks like it only covers audio equipment.
Service Notebooks for July 74, Sep 74, Oct 74, Nov 74, Dec 74 and Jan 75 all contain D16 Chassis "Notes from the Field" with service hints/cures.

Cheers,
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  #21  
Old 08-30-2014, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
Service Notebooks for July 74, Sep 74, Oct 74, Nov 74, Dec 74 and Jan 75 all contain D16 Chassis "Notes from the Field" with service hints/cures.

Cheers,
Gotcha, thanks.
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  #22  
Old 08-31-2014, 01:12 AM
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Wow!

Checking site now!
I do hope I can bring her back. She is a sweet set!
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  #23  
Old 08-31-2014, 08:14 AM
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It's doable for sure, the problem is finding a good tech who works on printed circuit boards.
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  #24  
Old 08-31-2014, 11:48 AM
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That area can be easily cleaned up by "mildly" scraping away the dried up flux with a dental pick/scribe and then use a can of flux stripper and a small stiff brush to clean. Then, you can assess the connections and condition of the area. Other than maybe touching up the socket connections I'd bet it will be okay.
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  #25  
Old 08-31-2014, 01:36 PM
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I would advise against any restoration attempts to the pcb unless it is determined to be problem. the last sylviania I worked on (D05 iirc) had VERY sensitive traces would lift in a heart beat. Don't assume its bad based on looks alone.
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  #26  
Old 09-01-2014, 09:55 AM
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solution

So... with two points completely off from the socket and nothing to attach them to on the board. ..where it got crisp and is now flaking some.....
What do I do?
Picture is below near my original post.
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  #27  
Old 09-01-2014, 10:04 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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Sorry just can see the pic well enough to diagnose the issue, fyi, some pins do not attach to anything on some tubes. The best way to proceed would be to get a schematic and do a continuity test from the socket pins to the pcb at a point beyond the area that looks bad. I would still begin with the assumption that you can not tell the problem just by looking at the pcb, but rather use correct diagnostics to determine the fault.
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  #28  
Old 09-01-2014, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodmonster View Post
So... with two points completely off from the socket and nothing to attach them to on the board. ..where it got crisp and is now flaking some.....
What do I do?
Picture is below near my original post.
What is the tube type in the socket? The 12 pin Horizontal Output tubes usually have several blank pins that are not connected to the circuit, but the socket pins are soldered to the board to provide support. They also usually have redundant connections to the grids.
Just pulled a typical example out of my junk box... counting around clockwise (bottom view) from the gap I see:
1&12 - Heater
2 - Cathode
3&11 - Grid - (likely G2)
4&10 - Grid -(likely G3)
5&9 - Grid - (likely G1)
6&7&8 - No connection
Cap on top - Plate

Perhaps the pins that are not connected to anything don't need to be.

jr

Last edited by jr_tech; 09-01-2014 at 02:23 PM.
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  #29  
Old 09-01-2014, 02:17 PM
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Indeed

Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
What is the tube type in the socket? The 12 pin Horizontal Output tubes usually have several blank pins that are not connected to the circuit, but the socket pins are soldered to the board to provide support. They also usually have redundant connections to the grids.
Just pulled a typical example out of my junk box... counting around clockwise (bottom view) from the gap I see:
1&12 - Heater
2 - Cathode
3&11 - Grid - (likely G2)
4&10 - Grid -(likely G3)
5&9 - Grid - (likely G1)
6&7&8 - No connection
Cap on top - Plate

Perhaps the pins that are not connected to anything don't need to be. [scratch2]

jr

Indeed it is that tube socket... Maybe i am lucky then?
Should we go ahead and fix the old and burnt caps and resistors in that area and replace the HV trippler that seemed to be out and then start it up and see if it goes?
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  #30  
Old 09-01-2014, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodmonster View Post
Indeed it is that tube socket... Maybe i am lucky then?
Should we go ahead and fix the old and burnt caps and resistors in that area and replace the HV trippler that seemed to be out and then start it up and see if it goes?
I would clean it up, replace the known bad parts and look for the root cause of the for the over heating... Is the Horizontal Output tube bad/gassy? is there drive to its grid? is the horizontal oscillator running and outputting... good basic troubleshooting stuff.

jr
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