63 silvertone

[Kevin Kuehn]

For some reason I can't make the above link work - takes me to Google sign in page.

This one seems to work(for me).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39Dl...CVtyRrqXVtll-g

[DaveWM]

thanks for getting that to work. link works for me, but maybe I put it there after logging in? anyway hope Timmy can confirm this as his issue.

if link does not work can just you tube my channel Dave WM

[drussell]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

thanks for getting that to work. link works for me, but maybe I put it there after logging in?

Yeah, that's what had happened... The link you posted was to the 'edit my video' type section within your account, (notice the /edit?o=U part), you must have grabbed the URL from within your account, not the published link.

The best link is just simply:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39DlVjo9hSY

so silly YouTube doesn't try to autoplay the whole list of videos.

[DaveWM]

this looks interesting a two pulse blanking circuit

http://www.google.com/patents/US3247418

Note the pulse to the G2

[timmy]

yup i also had a problem getting into that link. when i posted what i did i had already pulled the chassis and i was going to go over the components i had put in when i first got the set. my first mistake was the doubler caps as they should both be the same but what i did was for a 250v 160uf i put 2-250v 100uf in paralelle and for all i know one of the 4 caps may have went bad and the voltage is not what it should be, its like batterys in series, one goes bad it pulls everything else down . resistors, and other fixed caps i put in i have to check. like i needed i think it was a .12 630v but moyers gave me a .1 and a .022 to make up this cap and i was told by someone here at karma that the .1 was enough so i had taken the .o22 out but i had more problems then what i had already and i think it was the drive lines issue that i have now. so maybe these caps should not be parralelled as i know some parts of certain circuits this should not be done because this may be a timing circuit . so all in all i didnt have the lines in the beginning but when they appeared they just got worse every time i turned the set on so clearly it could very well be the crap i put in this set and how i did it, paralelling caps, no.no, on my part. temporary may have been acceptable but not permanent. i will get back soon with an update...

[DaveWM]

So were the lines in the video what you are experiencing?

[timmy]

i am almost certain it was the lines because i had since got tired of the hv issue and even when i had taken the 6bk4 cap of i didnt get hv like i get now since changing the flyback. but yes i was more concerned about the lines and this is why i decided to go ahead and check my own work and fix the screwups or the should not have done crap. i never did get to the link you had sent.

[DaveWM]

just go to you tube and look up my channel

Dave WM

or just google

CTC-12 retrace

[Electronic M]

There is nothing wrong with putting capacitors in parallel to duplicate a out of production value. For instance if you need to replace an original .25uF 600V capacitor, you CAN replace it with a .22uF 630V in parallel with a .033uF 630V and it will work fine, not to mention be a more correct replacement, value wise than the .22uF part alone.

Trust me I use parallel caps all the time in my restorations, and they always work just fine.

[timmy]

ok got the video, yes they look like that with each line a different color and if i move the contrast i can make them almost not there. the vert hold if i make it roll there is lines but they are lines with dots on the right side they are somewhat different them the color lines that are there all the time. i thought the retrace lines are the ones that the lines go half way across the screen towards the right and at the right they end with what looks like dots. but just a still pic yes those are the lines im talking about, lol ,lol. so ill have to concentrate on a verticle issue weather cap and or resistors. i tried another vert output tube and was no change so i ruled that out. thanks for that video it was very helpful. oh and by the way the set on this page is the very one with all these issues,lol,lol....

[DaveWM]

Ok there are 3 parts that are used to cut off retrace.

You need to look at two resistors (100k,68k) and a .01 disk.

You need to check your schematic and find them, they go from the plate/transformer vert lead to the plate of the video out tube.

Its unlikely to be the problem, but its where you should look. I will do a video later showing where they are (one resistor and the cap is on the chroma board, one resistor is on the deflection board).

The more likely problem is just a CRT that is getting soft to the point where the setup bias is just beyond the point of the blanking pulse ability to blank it out (the CRT is blanked by the reg blanking pulse from the video signal AND the blanking pulse from the vert out).

It "may be" possible to overcome a weak CRT (or one with poor cut off) being the issue by the mod noted in the patent. I say "may be" since I am only speculating that the mod noted would generate enough extra cut off voltage to resolve this.

[timmy]

ok interesting info thanks, as for the crt it is original from 63 but tests good with good cutoff but i do hope its not the crt.

[DaveWM]

if it test good with good cut off then its likely to be one of the following

CRT setup incorrect (kine bias/drive pots)

AGC (too low)

Open resistor or cap per my prior post.

It has to be one of the above so there is no need to start replacing caps (like the .12 you mentioned before).

What is confusing is you said it was fine then you made cap changes, then it get worse each time you turn it on. That is a very odd situation.

This is why I do not recommend mass recapping as a rule, although I am having a hard time trying to figure out how it gets worse with each time you turn it on.

[timmy]

since the lines started it has got worse no better so when this problem started i looked into things to try to find out what may have been causing it. i didnt make any changes just that i pulled the chassis the other day to check caps , resistors, ect. the kine bias pot is 6k and measures good that was the first thing i checked. so then i should leave the.1 cap and the .022 paralled in place for the.12 that the sams says and what i took out.

[DaveWM]

I don't know the .12 you refer to, but I am pretty sure its not the problem.

I am uploading a video now showing the likely suspects, its 11min long so will take a while, check back in about 1 hr.