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  #31  
Old 01-07-2014, 03:08 PM
kramden66 kramden66 is offline
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forgive me if what I'm about to say sounds stupid but I looked up the data on a 6DQ5 , it says the cathode is pins 3 and 6 , the schematic for the set shows pins 3 and 6 to ground and it says 200ma , so I am to measure between pin 3 or 6 to ground to get the ma ?

I break the connection to ground run it through the meter back to ground or I measure another way ?

or are we talking another pin not 3 or 6 ?

I only did ma once with a porthole and it was measuring one end and the other of a resistor and I got my ma reading and was able to reduce it by changing the value of the resistor, so on this color set to reduce it I touch the lin ?

don't put a resistor between ground and the pin to reduce?

I can tell you from the crosshatch that lin and width are adjusted so things are proper.

on the blue lateral I fixed that and I think I got the screen settings right , will have to go over it again to be sure.

mike
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  #32  
Old 01-07-2014, 04:19 PM
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You might find a jumper to remove that connects 3 and 6 to ground. You break the cathode and then you measure the current there to ground. I have a ctc 10 and 11. All Horiz out cathodes usually go to ground
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  #33  
Old 01-07-2014, 04:20 PM
NJRoadfan NJRoadfan is offline
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Wow, it lives. That set likely sat in that unheated garage for most of its life, so it saw extreme hot and cold along with humidity. It wasn't turned on for at least 25 years that I know of before you got it. According to my grandmother, that set might have been one of my grandfather's garbage picks.
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  #34  
Old 01-07-2014, 10:23 PM
kramden66 kramden66 is offline
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so disconnect pin 3 and 6 from ground , hook the meter up and measure pin 3 and 6 to ground without it connected to ground ?

njroadfan he did install a fan , its a record player motor with a blade , he also noted several tubes replaced in 1972 and electrolytic replaced in 1979 that still works , just about every tube had to be replaced , the film caps and resistors held up , I replaced all but one electrolytic ( the one he put in ) to be safe .
I bet if he garbage picked it it was put out there because of the tubes it needed in 1972

mike
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  #35  
Old 01-08-2014, 03:03 PM
NJRoadfan NJRoadfan is offline
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My grandfather was good about leaving notes with dates of install/repair on them. In this household we usually put the date of purchase on the manuals of electronics and appliances continuing his tradition. Thats mostly so we can curse more when it breaks well before it should.
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  #36  
Old 01-08-2014, 04:15 PM
kramden66 kramden66 is offline
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too bad he or the previous owner removed the legs , you can see underneath where the metal thingies were screwed into the bottom for the legs to screw into
maybe if I can find legs and the screw thingies I can add them
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  #37  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:02 PM
kramden66 kramden66 is offline
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ok had I read the entire sams I would have seen they explain how to do the cathode , they also mention how to do the hv regulator but I don't know if I want to mess around with that since I don't have a microammeter,
they do say adjust the hv control for 23kv at the anode , also they mention when doing the grey scale to turn the kine bias fully counterclockwise and then go on to the screen controls, they didn't say adjust so you get red to turn to yellow and yellow to white or grey , that is very helpful Electronic M , I thank you.

that 6BK4 sure has a blue glow inside it

mike
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  #38  
Old 01-09-2014, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kramden66 View Post
too bad he or the previous owner removed the legs , you can see underneath where the metal thingies were screwed into the bottom for the legs to screw into
maybe if I can find legs and the screw thingies I can add them

The "thingies" you refer to are leg mounting plates and can be found at most home improvement stores such as Lowes, Home Depot. You should buy plates that accommodate angled legs. The tapered legs can probably be found at the same type store or an unfinished furniture store. Some even have the brass caps on them. Not sure of the length of the legs on the Admiral. Someone on VK must have a CTC-12 type table model color set w/legs of this vintage and provide measurements.

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  #39  
Old 01-10-2014, 01:32 AM
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I may have a set of those angled leg plates. Probably some legs too.
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  #40  
Old 01-10-2014, 01:46 AM
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Found them. The legs are 60's NOS made in Japan, my dad bough them by the case full when I was a little kid.

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  #41  
Old 01-10-2014, 12:20 PM
kramden66 kramden66 is offline
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What do those legs measure ? they look a bit short for this set or am I wrong ?

mike
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  #42  
Old 01-10-2014, 01:45 PM
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Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
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My CTC-11 in the metal cabinet had its original legs and they were longer than that, as I recall. I suspect the Admiral's legs were similar. I eventually sold the TV, so I can't be more exact than that.

When I got the set, the legs were not attached -- just rolling around inside the cabinet. One of them had split around the screw and I was never motivated to fix it. I know it was a style of the times, but to my eye those massive cabinets look awkward standing on spindly legs. When the legs are made of wood you are just asking for trouble every time you move the set. Even with longer legs, the screen ends up pretty low to the ground. So I guess that is three reasons why I never felt like trying the legs

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  #43  
Old 01-10-2014, 02:09 PM
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Those legs are 5-1/4" long. I have a box of 7" legs, but they don't have the gold ferrule or the leveling pad. But as Phil mentioned - the longer you go the wigglier they get. I think the basic idea was to keep the cabinet up a few inches out of harms way, to fend off things like vacuum cleaner and toy strikes.
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  #44  
Old 01-10-2014, 06:52 PM
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Also so the under chassis vents could get some air on carpeted floors.
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  #45  
Old 01-11-2014, 01:52 AM
kramden66 kramden66 is offline
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I wonder if 5" ones would work where I have the set ? I will measure.

I'm getting along with this , Saturday I will measure the cathode ma , tweak the convergence where needed and tweak the sound , once its done I will try to post some higher quality photos, I did a little tweaking of the convergence and forgot how easy you can tear the skin on your fingers turning those controls.

anyone know if there's a modification that can be added to get rid of the retrace lines that come and go on copy guarded dvds ? its really not that important but it would be nice to know if someone figured it out , some black and white sets suffer the same thing some don't, if the dvd doesn't have it then it just plays without retrace lines that come and go and they aren't full lines like actually retrace lines .

mike
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