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  #91  
Old 02-11-2016, 10:19 AM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Very impressive. All you need now is a TV lamp facing the back walls, then you can turn the room lights off and enjoy that great picture. But it looks pretty darn good even in that bright room lighting.

Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 02-11-2016 at 12:52 PM.
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  #92  
Old 02-11-2016, 11:12 AM
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Your TV looks great! Excellent picture for a set that was made sixty years ago (the CTC5 Westcott was made the year I was born).

I don't see a converter box or a VCR/DVD anywhere near the TV. Is that Bonanza episode off the air or cable?

Keep up the good work. These old TVs deserve much better than to be sent to a landfill, and this one obviously won't be.
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  #93  
Old 02-11-2016, 02:49 PM
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Thanks a bunch everyone! To reply to jeffhs question, the set is receiving a wired signal from a BT modulator. I can get all the stations provided by my cable company. The modulator is hooked up to my cable box. To be honest, my CTC-5 is producing a better picture than my CTC-7!
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  #94  
Old 02-11-2016, 07:32 PM
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I figured as much, that you might have been using an RF modulator fed by a cable box. Do you have an in-house type of system similar to the one Kamakiri (Tim) in Buffalo uses for his antique TVs? Since Orlando only has three VHF network TV stations (not counting PBS, Fox, et al.), you wouldn't need that many modulators to build a good local distribution system. I think Tim only uses one and changes the input signal at the modulator, depending on what channel he wants to watch. The modulator's output is on channel 9 in his installation, but since Orlando has a local channel 9 any modulator you use would have to output to some other VHF channel.
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  #95  
Old 02-11-2016, 07:46 PM
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Yes I do have a home broadcasting system. With plenty of power to reach the whole house. I had it wired temporarily but now I get everything off the rabbit ears! I use only one modulator to do the job.
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  #96  
Old 02-12-2016, 08:57 PM
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Found the original house where this TV came from. Interestingly enough, the house was finished in 1956, the same year this set was manufactured. The set belonged to Mr. Vahram Bagian. Mr. Bagian passed in 1995. He must have been a pretty wealthy man to own this set back in 1956! http://www.realtor.com/realestateand...0_M48576-54870
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  #97  
Old 03-01-2016, 07:10 PM
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I have noticed that when I am watching the set and a picture with a lot of white light comes on the whole screen has a shade of green to it, once the white light goes away the green tint goes away. I remember reading that the 21AXP22's phosphors gave everything a greenish tint. Is this the same with the A version? Or is this occurrence circuit related?
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  #98  
Old 03-01-2016, 07:51 PM
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Sounds like the green screen is up too high, or you need to turn down the brightness.
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  #99  
Old 03-01-2016, 08:03 PM
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This effect has to be electrical, not the phosphors.
I have never heard of the phosphors giving everything a greenish tint.

However, the usual white balance for sets for decades was on the cyan side ("9300K + 27 MPCD") due to the dimness of the red phosphor and a desire not to overdrive the red gun too much. (This was not true of the very earliest sets such as the CT-100, as they were supposed to be set to illuminant C [daylight white] even though this meant pushing the red gun extremely hard compared to the green and blue.)

By the way, I suspect that CT-100 as used in the home varied greatly, as servicemen had no instruments to tell them when they had achieved the correct white balance. Grayscale tracking (whites and grays being the same color) is much easier to judge by eye than the actual color of those whites and grays.
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  #100  
Old 03-01-2016, 10:45 PM
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Your greenish tint is definitely electrical in nature. That said, the earliest 21AXP22s, when not in use, do have an ever so slight green tint, just like a 15GP22, 15HP22, or 19VP22. Perhaps it was discussion of the appearance of the tubes when not in use that SwizzyMan was reading?
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  #101  
Old 03-02-2016, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniman82 View Post
There are at least 3 flavors of 21AXP22 that I'm aware of:

The earliest ones had the same phosphors as a 15GP22 giving a greenish look to the screen and had normal grey dag on the inside, the chassis they were used with always had series anode resistance to protect the flyback in case of an arc in the CRT. Part number would be 21AXP22.

Next is the same tube, just with improved brightness from different phosphors. This one was used in most of the CTC-4's you see out there unless a replacement was installed, and it's easy to tell because the screen appears white instead of greenish. Part number is still 21AXP22, still all grey dag.

Last version to come out before the glass tubes was the 21AXP22A. This is the one with a white screen and red resistive dag on the inside, which eliminated the need for series anode resistance for arc protection from the previous model. All CTC-5's used this tube and it's compatible with earlier chassis.

The same is NOT true of putting a 21AXP22 (non-A) into a set having a CTC-5 chassis, which has no built in series anode resistance. While it's true it will 'work', the caution there is that without any series anode resistance you run the risk of shorting all HV anode current to ground in the event of a CRT failure. The whole point of series anode resistance is the protect the chassis, without it you blow up more parts when the CRT goes. So if you have a CTC-5 and your CRT has all grey dag, either install some resistance in the anode lead or prepare to replace the flyback if the tube dies.

The red dag doesn't prevent arcing, it merely saves other parts from death should an arc occur.
My bad, I interpreted this post wrong. I thought the greenish tint was a picture related effect. Not just the color of the phosphors. Also I know know that the A version of the 21ax didn't even have that same phosphor.
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  #102  
Old 09-23-2017, 05:29 PM
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I am currently solving a horizontal issue with this set. I have since fixed this but it seems the tuner and IF circuits have gone out of whack. Ive tried all adjustments and tubes. What I would like to do since this TV will soon be in a cabin in Minnesota where over the air and cable is hard to find is to see if it is simple to inject a composite signal into the video and sound amp to bypass the tuner and IF. Is this possible by just connecting a direct video source or will I have to build a preamp for this set too?
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  #103  
Old 09-24-2017, 10:51 PM
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Penthode Penthode is offline
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I have the same problem with my CTC5. The emission on the 21AXP22A is okay. Advancing the brightness affects grey scale. At lower brightness the greyscale is not bad.

The root problem may be the design of the final luma stage. Compared with the CTC7 upward, the anode current at the quiescent point of the CTC5 appears too high at cart cutoff. I earlier was investigating means reducing anode current quiescent point by shifting the CRT cutoff point.

I looked at this a couple of years ago and put it aside. Now that I know the problem isn't unique to my CTC5, I am going to revisit this. I would be curious if any of you have thoughts on this. I haven't substituted the 21AXP22A and am wondering despite the emission being okay that perhaps the guns aren't tracking properly?
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  #104  
Old 09-24-2017, 11:10 PM
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I recommend modifying the CTC-5 video output stage to the CTC-7 configuration.

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...ication&page=2
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  #105  
Old 09-25-2017, 10:00 AM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_tv_nut View Post
I recommend modifying the CTC-5 video output stage to the CTC-7 configuration.

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...ication&page=2
I had already done this awhile back. And I do agree that it vastly improves gray scale and overall contrast and picture quality. I was able to inject a composite video source to G1 of the video amp and the picture is stellar now.
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