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  #31  
Old 11-12-2012, 09:03 AM
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I have TWO of these to repair...but no longer wanna bother with 'em since I have a running 1020, 1030 and CT101.

I didn't even wanna bother the guy offering the 1010 schematics....or I'd try to get back into the 1010 and then have to repair the ribbon cables as well as whatever had happened to them in the first place. I do have the small sets to "wow" anyone if need be. That 1030 is actually QUITE a handsome little set...and is smaller than ALL the other Travelvision sets.
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  #32  
Old 11-12-2012, 09:08 AM
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but it would be a good thing to know how to fix them should they take a dump, afterall they are old and i think that whatever kind of vintage tv you may have its always a good idea to know how to fix them. and the ribbon is not all that bad to fix as mine tore in 2.
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  #33  
Old 11-12-2012, 04:14 PM
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Did the diode replacement correct the horizontal, or did you replace the AN5750 too?
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  #34  
Old 11-12-2012, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by crtfool View Post
Did the diode replacement correct the horizontal, or did you replace the AN5750 too?
the diode did correct the horiz, 4700kv on the crt, 500volts on the focus and did not replace the an5750. i got an5760 coming so hope this does the trick.
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  #35  
Old 11-13-2012, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AiboPet View Post
I have TWO of these to repair...but no longer wanna bother with 'em since I have a running 1020, 1030 and CT101.

I didn't even wanna bother the guy offering the 1010 schematics....or I'd try to get back into the 1010 and then have to repair the ribbon cables as well as whatever had happened to them in the first place. I do have the small sets to "wow" anyone if need be. That 1030 is actually QUITE a handsome little set...and is smaller than ALL the other Travelvision sets.
what does the tr1020 use for an ac adapter, is it a 12 volt 55ma or a 6 volt because the 1010 uses a 12 volt 55ma and the tv has a regulator that regulates the voltage to 4.8 volts.
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  #36  
Old 11-13-2012, 07:09 PM
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Dunno.....ALL of the little TRs use the same one with the funny little squared off tip. I thought it was 7.5v unit....but could be entirely wrong. Almost positive it is NOT 12vdc though...or I would not have gone through the trouble to find the exact one when I needed one. If you are using a 12v one.....you are likely gonna cook the regulator. The battery pack is 4 x AA size batteries...so the set likely runs at 6v internally without looking at a schematic, so I'm still guessing the wall wart is gonna be 7.5vdc.

UPDATE:

Found one of mine specific to the set. It's part number (Panasonic) TY-AC39P

Input is AC 120V 60Hz 55mA

Output is 11.45vdc (positive tip) as measured by a Fluke meter (no load)

There is no output specs printed on the outside of it. I even found a second one that is running my 1020....same exact model and specs.

Looks like all three of the little TR series use the exact same one. I don't have the CT101 down here at home to look at (It's up at my Dad's house)
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Last edited by AiboPet; 11-13-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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  #37  
Old 11-18-2012, 11:29 AM
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well here it is i still got a line across the screen and checked all voltages and seem just about right on and still cant figure why i just have a line. replaced both horiz and verticle ics and made no difference at all. this is baffling to me finding nothing else wrong but i know there is something. caps were changed checked diodes only to fine the one, i also took off some resistors and transistors to check out of the circuit and everything checks ok. and yes these components are SMD, chips very difficult to see let alone remove and put back. did anyone who reads this post have any info as to where to go from here with this problem. it seems to be a common problem with these little sets. HELP.........
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  #38  
Old 11-20-2012, 03:57 PM
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well this update means i gave up on this tr 1010p, checked everything and waisted to much time. i got another one, tr1020 with the radio and it had the same line across the screen but i fixed this one and it works great. the circuit board is different and i think for the worse, anyway caps and ics were all loose all had to be resoldered and 2 breaks in the ribbon which i had to put 2 jumpers. it looks like vibration did all this from years of bumping around.
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  #39  
Old 11-20-2012, 04:08 PM
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Good job with the TR-1020p. Be aware that they are almost as bad as the TR-1010p electronically. You have now officially been inducted into the "TR-1010p Kicked Our Ass Club"!
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  #40  
Old 11-20-2012, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by crtfool View Post
Good job with the TR-1020p. Be aware that they are almost as bad as the TR-1010p electronically. You have now officially been inducted into the "TR-1010p Kicked Our Ass Club"!
LMAO, i have had my butt kicked with electronics befor and had also given up but sometimes i go back for more abuse and sometimes succeed,lol,lol but for now im waiting for a tr 1030p which is almost the same as the 1010 but newer in year and its said to work, i hope. the board is different from the 1010 to the 1020 alittle easier still very tight.
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  #41  
Old 11-20-2012, 04:55 PM
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LOL!!.....I been to that club TWICE now. I'll go back sometime when I need another good ass-kickin' :-P

I love the little 1030, and the one I have has not been opened yet. I saw no reason to so far. It's smaller than the rest of the little TR sets, so I'm sorta afraid to ever open it.

I have a 1020 that also just needed some soldering touched up before it would keep a full raster. Works great....but I need to find a battery cover and it's magnifier. ALL the little TR set's have different magnifiers....not interchangeable.
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Last edited by AiboPet; 11-20-2012 at 04:58 PM.
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  #42  
Old 11-20-2012, 05:05 PM
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does your 1030 work? and how good compared to the 1010 would you say it is.
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  #43  
Old 11-20-2012, 05:11 PM
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The TR-1030p is electronically superior to the previous models, but it folds into a 3 sided square that is held together by a 10 pin soldered connector at the end of a very similar ribbon cable.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg TR-1030p.jpg (86.1 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg TR-1030p 2.jpg (100.8 KB, 27 views)

Last edited by crtfool; 11-20-2012 at 05:18 PM.
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  #44  
Old 11-20-2012, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AiboPet View Post
Dunno.....ALL of the little TRs use the same one with the funny little squared off tip. I thought it was 7.5v unit....but could be entirely wrong. Almost positive it is NOT 12vdc though...or I would not have gone through the trouble to find the exact one when I needed one. If you are using a 12v one.....you are likely gonna cook the regulator. The battery pack is 4 x AA size batteries...so the set likely runs at 6v internally without looking at a schematic, so I'm still guessing the wall wart is gonna be 7.5vdc.

UPDATE:

Found one of mine specific to the set. It's part number (Panasonic) TY-AC39P

Input is AC 120V 60Hz 55mA

Output is 11.45vdc (positive tip) as measured by a Fluke meter (no load)

There is no output specs printed on the outside of it. I even found a second one that is running my 1020....same exact model and specs.

Looks like all three of the little TR series use the exact same one. I don't have the CT101 down here at home to look at (It's up at my Dad's house)
No, I'm pretty sure my CT-101 uses a 12VDC Wall Wart, & has a conventional round tip... I've got a couple of those WEIRD Sony FD-535 "Not Trinitron" 5" color sets w/FM radios, & they use 13.8 VDC wall warts-Try findin' one of THOSE...
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  #45  
Old 11-20-2012, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crtfool View Post
The TR-1030p is electronically superior to the previous models, but it folds into a 3 sided square that is held together by a 10 pin soldered connector at the end of a very similar ribbon cable.
interesting, but i thought you never took the 1030 apart. or were you talking about the 1020, all these 10s , whew, confusing,lol.
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